Vasa By 72Nova - FINISHED - Airfix - PLASTIC

[baskerbosse]

On 11/26/2022 at 6:35 PM, kirill4 said:

Good day!

It is going to be very nice model! I liked your paintings and rigging very much!...

if not too late,

there is real sense to replace bowsprit and masts and may be top masts as well for the "wooden material"...

leaving original plastic yards and masts there would be a big risk of their deterioration/bending during  standing rigging  phase... replacing for the wood or other strong materials gradually will improve situation... :))) 

especially bowsprit \ which will be loaded(even with smallest possible load of fore stays)  with all fore stays , spritsail top sail backstay and without bobstays in that period- this is really most of weak points in this respect... when it curved up on the model with spritsail topsail declined aft, it will looks not nice...

All the best !

Kirill

 

I agree,

It might not be immediately visible, but given a few years (and especially summers), thin spars eventually permanently bend with even the smallest tension on the rigging.

I'm currently restoring a Revell Victory that I built as a child, probably late 1970s.
Most yards have a bend backwards. Also since the plastic becomes brittle with age, slightest brushing against thinner spars snaps them without any resistance.

Chers,
Peter

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

On 11/26/2022 at 6:04 PM, kirill4 said:

To imitaite gravity force when rope passes trough block ,and make it not looks loosened, a small drop of CA gel could be used... wet by CA gel a piece of thread which will pass trough the block hole , pull it trough the hole a little ,and than hold tightly by fingers for a few sec in desired directions...

    Thanks for these helpful tips.  Your work is excellent, and I may only imitate.  Learning first and planning is good advice.

[72Nova]

Hi Kirill,

I've used the ole glue on the block to tighten up the line trick for awhile now as I too hate loose the line effect, now I'm not as prolific at it as you are.... I mean I can stare at that Galleon of yours all day long and just marvel at the detail. I will definitely put the tip regarding the crows feet to use, I actually can't wait to try it!

I hear what what you're saying about the spars Peter and still might consider doing them, heck I had to fashion up the Lateen yard out of wood using a cordless drill when I back dated my Heller Victory but I keep looking over at the Revell Connie I built under full saill 20 plus years ago and those royal masts and spars, which are about as spindly as the vasa spritsail mast, still look good. Your restoration project on other hand of the old Revell kit sounds really interesting!. As always I value everyone's input.

 

Michael D.

 

 

 

[72Nova]

I spent some time finishing up rigging the rest of the blocks, cleats and fore stay collar 4 hole dead eye on the bowsprit, also using 1/16" brass rod  for the spritsail top sail yard, not sure if I'm going to do all of them but this one was quite flimsy. Up next I need to finish painting the port side hull and start gluing it up.

 

Michael D.

 

'

[Hubac's Historian]

I can’t remember if you mentioned it, but where are you sourcing your blocks from?

[Hubac's Historian]

That’s awesome, Thanks!  Yes, 1.5mm would be great for gun carriage rigging in 1:96.

[kirill4]

Good day,

1.5 mm block could be printed by demand?

they said it even would be less expensive than master-corabel 2.0 mm wooden block ...

Some of our experienced colleagues , who has 3d printer and proper skills can easily do that and make offer of such production...

may be there is not really problem as I though before :)))  

[scrubbyj427]

On 10/30/2022 at 3:36 PM, Waldemar said:

 

This misalignment is perhaps the most spectacular (by the same author as above). Who dares to make an accurate model of the original?  🙂

 

 

 

 

I’m curious now if this has anything to do her time spent on the bottom for so many years  or if this is as built. I will need to dig into my library again and do some reading. 

[72Nova]

I was wondering about the misalignments myself, heck one can eyeball it closer than that, I'm certain it was damaged some in the first attempt to raise it back in the 17th century. I figured I'm just going to complete the rest of the work in spritsail mast area starting with making the parrals, using 0.0120" styrene for the ribs, cutting them to a height of around 0.101", for the trucks I used .025" rod and used a #80 drill bit to drill the hole for a total of 4 ribs and 6 trucks. Six more blocks and a furled sail should complete the work in this area minus the final rigging. Thanks for looking.

 

Michael D.

[kirill4]

Looks nice! Considering scale - just very nice!!! blocks size and shape looks very proportional as well !

All the Best!

Kirill 

[kirill4]

Do You want to fitt sail and other rigging when spar already fitted at place?

In such case the task will be triple complicated... hm, easiest way to assemble everything(yard,sail blocks all riggings lines) in advance , and than to fitt as assembled unit at place... pls don/t consider as advice ,just my thoughts about process... 

Edited November 30, 2022 by kirill4

[72Nova]

Hi Kirill,

Thanks for the compliment, yes working at this scale is very challenging to say the least. I will have the blocks, sheet lines, brace pendants and sail attached  to the yard before I install it on the mast, then rig the lifts and belay them to the top before I glue the bowsprit to the beakhead then I'll have to wait to rig the sheets and braces until I fit the spritsail yard, stay and the rest of the pinrails at the beakhead. Your advice/thoughts are always well taken so no worries there. Just curious are you working on another master piece?.

 

Michael D.

[kirill4]

Good day Michael,

Thanks , I see...  I thought, when I saw your spritsail top sail yard at place with fitted parral, that You are going to attach sail and relevant riggings afterward  ... :))) which will be very complicated... often ,by my experience, much easy to do rigging in reverse order... and sometimes even standing as well , in reverse...

  Your question about my next project... no , not yet...I went to the sea till april next year, and now far away from my models... just run thoughts in idle... want to assemble airfix Golden Hind  galleon, that kit, in 1:74 scale if I'm not mistaken with scale... but I have an Idea to represent it as 1:100 scale galleon/ it will be  much bigger ship... make some "modernization" - to add 4th mast, more sails, more guns... finally I want it to look more or less as that famous galleon Elizabeth Jonas model... :)))

[Cirdan]

Hi Kyrill,

1. What about the Heller or Revell 1:48 Mayflower? The hull-lines are more accurate for an elizabethan galleon than the lines of the Airfix Golden Hind. 

2. What about taking at least one model, tools etc. to sea with you? 😉

[72Nova]

The spritsail topsail yard is finally mounted but not quite fully complete yet with the clews of the sail and associated blocks still left to do, with the parral being so ridiculously tiny, trying to furl a sail on a yard smaller than a toothpick and the 100wt thread is like rigging with human hair, this task challenged just about whatever skill set I've got left and in the end doesn't look too bad.

 

Michael D.

 

[Jeff T]

Looks great!

[kirill4]

Oh Yes, indeed !!!  

Absolutely , Great job!!!   Why other half of the hull not glued , not colored out yet?

[kirill4]

What do You think about to show sails furled in old fashion  style which will be looks more historic accurately?

a few of Kalmar Nykel replica 1625 - very nice rigging, many details suitable for Vasa rigging could be seen and examined!

Edited December 2, 2022 by kirill4

[72Nova]

Thanks gentlemen for the compliments, Kirill those pictures will be a huge asset moving forward with the build and as far as displaying the furled sails in an old fashioned style, do you mean with the top masts lowered?.

 

I finally glued the hull halves together and currently working on the main mast modifications, including rounding of the masthead, adding cheeks, sheeves etc, at this point the deck, beakhead bulkhead and masts are still in the dry fitting stage. The main course tie is .63mm line that will be same size as the shrouds and .30mm line is used for the halliard, the fabricated ramshead measures out to around 5.5mm in length and looks fairly close to scale, one of the main hatch gratings was made to be removable to hopefully attach the topsail yard top rope below the deck. Please excuse the makeshift stand, I'll be working on the final shortly. Thanks for looking. 

 

Michael D.

 

[kirill4]

Good day Michael,

Looks great!

About old fashion style of sails furling...I ment, part of the furled sail kept vertical, other - along the yard,as could be seen on the pictures...I didnt mean  to show lowered top mast ...

All the Best!

Kirill

[72Nova]

I do like the look of those furled sails. Just a small update, finally have an official base made from a couple of brass cabinet knobs and an oval oak base, painted the insides of the hull black and the main mast is still a work in progress.

 

Michael D.

[Hubac's Historian]

If I’m being honest, Michael, I don’t like the brass knobs.  They come-off as too heavy for the scale of the model.  I’m sorry to be so blunt, but they elicit a pretty visceral reaction for me.

Edited December 6, 2022 by Hubac's Historian

[Hubac's Historian]

The other consideration is that the brightness of the pedestals is at odds with the weathered appearance of the model.

 

One approach might be to cut away the lobes of each knob so that there is a parallel center that runs closer to the keel.   Then I might strip away the lacquer and use brass black to give them some patina.

[72Nova]

Hey it's all good Marc. I can take a constructive criticism punch! I do like contrast with the brass but I feel an oil rubbed bronze finish would be better suited and I agree they are a tad too big. I'll see if I can find some bronze knobs and cut them down before I cut/blacken the existing ones. I appreciate your honesty though.

 

Michael D.

[Ian_Grant]

For my Preussen's pedestals I used brass "insert knobs" from Lee Valley. They don't have a "bulbous" knob that you show. They're meant to accept a wood disc in the centre of the knob end that you provide but you can omit and just stand upside down. Smallest is 3/8" DIA, not sure how that compares to yours.

 

https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/hardware/knobs/cabinet/40277-veritas-smooth-rimmed-brass-insert-knobs

[Hubac's Historian]

I appreciate that you can hear me, without getting too ruffled about it.  Always, with this kind of thing, I consider whether X, Y, or Z detail is a distraction to the model.  In this case, I felt it took focus away from the model, where it should be.

[72Nova]

Those actually look really good Ian and 3/8" would've work well but I had already stopped by Home Depot today and found some oil rubbed bronze knobs, once I cut off the top and gave them a light dry brush of gold, they look pretty good. I'm thinking the 1/2" will work on the Cutty Sark when the time comes. Thank you for the link.

Michael D.

[Hubac's Historian]

Totally different impression - way better, IMO.

[72Nova]

Work on modifying the main top continues to somewhat resemble the original as much as possible. I had already opened up the space between the ribs, next I removed half of the top rail and filed down the ribs and reattached it then I used thread to simulate an additional rail on the aft end of the top.

The dead eyes measure out to around 2mm and are stropped with 28g brass wire that is hooked to flattened 24g copper wire to create the chain for the futtock shrouds to hook to and will be fun when the time comes to rig.

 

Michael D.

 

 

 

[kirill4]

Michael,

Modified main top looks nice! Accurate and proportional in details!

All the best!