Thermopylae by ScottRC - Revell - 1:96 - PLASTIC - RESTORATION

[ScottRC]

This build log is a restoration of a model built by my mother.  This model was what inspired me to pursue a lifelong hobby of model making and a fascination with tall ships and sailing.  My mother is 87 and was diagnosed with Alzheimer's last summer and the past year was spent cleaning out her house and getting her affairs in order.  Of the items I was entrusted with is her collection of model ships she had built back in the early 1970's.

My mother was a professional artist who ran a commercial art studio and taught both fine art and life drawing.  In 1975, she was commissioned to paint a series of nautical themed placards for some publication, I cannot remember what, and she started to build plastic model ships to use as reference. The first one was the Revell Thermopylae because she loved the color combinations she could use on it.  The kit is not painted to represent the actual ship, but painted in a way to experiment with patina and color depth in 3D instead of on canvas.  She got about as far as installing all the standing rigging before she got intimidated and frustrated with forming and tying the ratlines and moved onto a model she enjoyed building and finishing, the Revell Spanish Galleon.  So for the past forty-six years, this model sat on top of a china cabinet, collecting dust, and taunting, no begging me to someday finish her.  

So, after moving it 2000 miles across country from her home to mine, in which the bowsprit got broken, and most of yards had fallen off, I now have it here in my studio and after washing off four decades of accumulated dust, have what I think a diamond in the rough, or a test of my sanity.  

 

A few things I will need help with and will need to consider.

1. How far do I want to go with restoring the masts?   The main and mizzen lower masts are warped, from what looks like exposer to direct sunlight.  Would I try to reform them, or do something I have been dying to do and try and make my own from scratch?

2. Paint restoration - This model was painted mostly with oils and I do not have access to the original paints, so I must be careful not to create any blemished I cannot touch up.

3.  Originality - I am a stickler with detail and originality, so I must stay focused on restoring the model and accept many of the building defects that are in it.

4. Time - I have many other projects and things in my life going on, so I expect either this to be a fast moving project, or one that could take years.

5. I have four cats, one is still a kitten and one a teenager who is a shop cat in training.  So rigging may be an adventure.  

 

Here she is after just coming home,

The busted bowsprit. This is nothing new to me, I've busted the bowsprit off of both my Constitution and Alabama, so I'm quite good at repairing them.

Stern end with the warped Mizzen mast.

Midships and after a bath.  The model is extremely well built, and the paint finish is protected with a varnish, so I put the whole model in the tub, sprayed it down with Windex, and sprayed her off.  Lots and lots of dirt came off.  

Full view

I put the bowsprit back in place.  LOL

The Bireme I built back when I was in High school and gave it to her for Christmas.  It needed a little work from some damage during the move.

And her beloved Spanish Galleon, with a lot of Artistic Licensing. 

I would love to here suggestions on how I should go about planning.  I am a little overwhelmed at were to start.  I guess systematically removing the spars and rigging.  I do have the original box, all the parts, and instructions along with copious notes she took while she was building this model.

Scott

 

[ccoyle]

Having never done a restoration, I can't advise you on how to proceed, but I do wish you well on your project. Enjoy!

[yvesvidal]

Very interesting project of restoration for a dear person that steered you and motivated you into the path of scale model ships. I am so glad you can do that for her.

 

Yves

[Wawona59]

WOW!  What an interesting and personal project.  This brings back a lot of memories for me as well.  I built this kit when I was a kid in the early 70's.  

 

Here are a few of my suggestions:

 

1.  Since you've done an initial cleaning of the ship I would use cotton buds soaked in a mild dish detergent to clean up the nooks and crannies of the model hull and deck.

2.  I would not repaint the hull or deck but rather leave it the way your mother left it; blemishes and all.

3.  Consider replacing the masts with stronger wooden ones.  You should at least replace the topsail, topgallant and jib booms. My experience is that these masts tend to bend like a fishing pole with a fish on the hook when rigging the backstays.

4.  If at all possible, keep as much your mom's work intact such as the painted hull and rigging like the ratlines.

 

Enjoy the journey.  this looks like a rewarding project.

 

 

Wawona59 

[rwiederrich]

Scott...I recently purchased *Another* Cutty Sark....I've personally built 4 myself for commissions and for myself.

I got the kit for parts...and I would be more then pleased to send you what you may need for the restoration.....namely the mast's and bowsprit.  You can reinforce the mast with rod, and still retain the original kit specs, as your mother built it.

 

PM me if this is a desire.

 

Rob

[ScottRC]

On 10/14/2022 at 10:20 AM, Wawona59 said:

WOW!  What an interesting and personal project.  This brings back a lot of memories for me as well.  I built this kit when I was a kid in the early 70's.  

 

Here are a few of my suggestions:

 

1.  Since you've done an initial cleaning of the ship I would use cotton buds soaked in a mild dish detergent to clean up the nooks and crannies of the model hull and deck.

2.  I would not repaint the hull or deck but rather leave it the way your mother left it; blemishes and all.

3.  Consider replacing the masts with stronger wooden ones.  You should at least replace the topsail, topgallant and jib booms. My experience is that these masts tend to bend like a fishing pole with a fish on the hook when rigging the backstays.

4.  If at all possible, keep as much your mom's work intact such as the painted hull and rigging like the ratlines.

 

Enjoy the journey.  this looks like a rewarding project.

 

 

Wawona59 

Thank you for your suggestions.  I do need to get into the nooks and crannies with cotton swabs and get all the dirt out.  I do not plan to to any repainting, but do want to re-mast and re-rig the model.  My mother requested that I do it for she never liked rigging, especially trying ratlines. 

[ScottRC]

On 10/14/2022 at 11:54 AM, rwiederrich said:

Scott...I recently purchased *Another* Cutty Sark....I've personally built 4 myself for commissions and for myself.

I got the kit for parts...and I would be more then pleased to send you what you may need for the restoration.....namely the mast's and bowsprit.  You can reinforce the mast with rod, and still retain the original kit specs, as your mother built it.

 

PM me if this is a desire.

 

Rob

Rob,

I have always been fascinated with clipper ships and have been a seasoned lurker of your build logs and use of both plastic and wood, and I am very impressed with your rigging and your detail of scale, so expect to hear from me with questions. I also will PM you in the future to take you up on your generous offer.  I did the mast re-enforcements with steel rods on my Constitution and it worked very well.

[ScottRC]

Still cleaning away, taking inventory, and working on a plan.    Its taking a lot of time getting decades of dirt and dust out of all the corners and seeing how much rework will need to be done.

[ScottRC]

I need some help with selecting rigging thread and block sizes.  I have been shopping around and its confusing to the types of rope and diameter that would be the most efficient for this model and my skillset.  So many choices.

I have never used wooden blocks before and there are several styles and wood types.  I have been reading the tutorials here on tying up the blocks and I think this is a good exercise for me to try my hand at.  

 

My plan is to rig the ship as in port, without sails.  

 

I am at a loss on selecting a good rope for the standing and running rig.

For the standing rig, the current measures about .010" or .25mm. It looks thick.  

What would be an appropriate diameter for the running rig?

About how much should I order for a 1/96 scale clipper, without sails,  since the rope is sold in either a few feet or by a few yards.  

 

Would single block sizes be 3mm?

 

I haven't yet decided if I am keeping the current plastic deadeye set up, or try making new ones along with chain plates.  I have been going over the many threads here and there is a lot of techniques to look at.  

Deadeyes look to measure at 4mm. 

 

Scott  

 

[Ian_Grant]

Scott,

 

Wire for the standing rigging would be typically a little under 1.5"DIA for lower and topmast stays, about 1.0"DIA for topgallant stays, a little less for royal stays.

 

Lower shrouds and topmast backstays same as lower stays for fore and main, same as topgallant stays for mizzen.

 

Topgallant backstays on each mast same as its topgallant stay.

 

Royal backstays on each mast same as its royal stay.

 

So the scale thread sizes would be 0.375mm, 0.25mm, and 0.2mm. Typical commercially available sizes are 0.1, 0.25, and 0.5mm unless you go somewhere like Syren Model Ship Company who have much larger variety.

 

I got these typical numbers from "Rigging the Clipper Ship and Ocean Carrier" by Harold Underhill. Well worth picking up a copy.

[ScottRC]

Thank you Ian.  

I have the Underhill book, I guess I better start using it.  

[ScottRC]

Got the mizzen and main masts taken off and stripped.  The main was pretty brittle and the plastic crumbled under the least amount of pressure.  Both the lower main and lower mizzen were warped extremely bad and it looks heat related from either exposure to direct sunlight, or too much glue.  Anyway, I am slowing removing all the old rigging and trying what I can to save the deadeyes.

 

[ScottRC]

The walnut dowels I ordered came in.  I plan to use these for a new lower main and mizzen, and will build a new bowsprit.   I haven't used the lathe in many moons and look forward to making new parts with it.  The bowsprit was a complete mess and needs replaced. The Dolphin Striker however can be re-used. 

 

[ScottRC]

I am hoping to be able to salvage the deadeye assemblies.  We will see.  The majority have a lot of glue mixed with cotton thread in them.

 

[ScottRC]

Worked on the lower masts this weekend and also the new bowsprit.  I had to order some stock brass rod and wire and also ordered a couple of packages of brass rings for the banding and comings.  

Both the new lower main and mizzen have been cut and are now being fitted out.  

 

Edited November 21, 2022 by ScottRC

[ScottRC]

First test fit of the mizzen, so far, so good.  A little more filing and the mast cap should fit right on.   

Edited November 21, 2022 by ScottRC

[ScottRC]

First test fit of the main seems to be going well.  Cross tree fit is good and a little more trimming on the top for the mast caps for a perfect fit.  

 

Full photo of the dry fitting of the masts.  I am quite pleased at how well the natural color of the walnut will match the pre-painted plastic parts that I am not replacing.  

 

Edited November 21, 2022 by ScottRC

[ScottRC]

Started building a new bowsprit.  Its too long for the lathe so I resorted to the old power drill technique.  I think I am getting the hang of it.  

 

[ScottRC]

Dry test fitting of the parts I have shaped so far.  The Dolphin Stryker needed some cleaning up and re-drilling and fits right up to my fabricated parts.  

 

[yvesvidal]

That is exactly how Revell should have approached these beautiful kits: using spars made of real wood.

 

Yves

[ScottRC]

I am learning that once you go with wood, its hard to ever use plastic again.  

[ScottRC]

I started making the mast steps, hoop, pintles, and pinrails for the masts on my 3D printer. 

[ScottRC]

Its been a long time, but I got the new lower masts built and setup along with a new bowsprit.  I snapped this picture off before going to work this morning of my current state of progress. I know its not much, but at least I feel I accomplished something.  

 

 

 

[Keith Black]

 Very good, Scott. It's great to see you are continuing work on the restoration. 

[ScottRC]

Started the forward standing rigging.  Its been a challenge to come up with a sequence with so much already done.  I have been replacing all the old plastic eyelets with brass since the original ones are so brittle. This entire model was built with Dupont and Testors tube cement.  I'm using the kits instructions for rigging.  Trying to use any other rigging plan will probably make me want to not proceed with this project.  

 

 

[dvm27]

Ah...who among us can ever forget the joy of Testors tube cement? The 24 hour bonding period, smudged canopies, glue everywhere... the intoxicating fumes!

[Keith Black]

 Looking good, Scott. Keep up the fine work.  

[ScottRC]

1 hour ago, dvm27 said:

Ah...who among us can ever forget the joy of Testors tube cement? The 24 hour bonding period, smudged canopies, glue everywhere... the intoxicating fumes!

The Dupont glue has the fumes like Ambroid and produced strands to when the applicator was pulled away, by the time I was done building, the model looked like it was attacked by a spider.  

 

The stuff was also hot, put too much on and it would melt the plastic.  I remember building a 1/72 Japanese float plane one night, and the next morning, the pontoon and wings were melted from using too much glue.  Those old glues taught me how using less it better than using more.  

 

Things are a lot different today with CA glue pens and liquid cements that are applied with brush and syringe applicators.  

[ScottRC]

Had some time this last week to actually spend in my workshop.  Added more standing rigging.  

Hope to add more soon.  I am kind of in the doldrums with building at the moment.  

[Keith Black]

1 hour ago, ScottRC said:

I am kind of in the doldrums with building at the moment. 

 I'm right there with you, Scott