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Posted

 Ben, I bought mine. Too many and too small to make with my meager talents. It's what you the builder are trying to accomplish with your build. 

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

  • Solution
Posted

I made my own and they were fun to make. I suppose you could make them without a lathe but it would be a lot more work. But, if using a lathe, the order of operations is critical. As well you'll need a mill with a rotary table or drill press with a holding jig for the deadeye holes. Or, you could use CNC if you have the equipment https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19253-le-gros-ventre-by-marsalv-148-pof/page/15/#comments.

 

If you have none of the above and need only a few then I would buy them from Syren as theirs are the best commercially available and pennies apiece. Otherwise the investment in equipment would be hundreds of dollars!

Greg

website
Admiralty Models

moderator Echo Cross-section build
Admiralty Models Cross-section Build

Finished build
Pegasus, 1776, cross-section

Current build
Speedwell, 1752

Posted

The last time that I made my own deadeyes I bought a Plug Cutter and chucked it in my drill press.  I used this to cut 3/8in dia blanks.  This method orients the grain correctly;  across the diameter of the blank, instead of along the axis of the cylinder.  I used a block of pear wood.  The particular plug cutter that I found was able to cut a cylinder about 1-1/2 in long.

 

I then chucked the blank in my lathe and turned individual deadeye blanks to the correct diameter and shape.  You should be able to find examples of homemade fixtures for drilling holes on the Forum.  Ed Tosti’s Young America posts come to mind.

 

Photo of plug cutter:

 

D69D9882-B3A2-4542-BDAA-AC4F8CEA9DCC.thumb.jpeg.131a8a1b4c7f49b9b909fbd751c8acb9.jpeg

Posted

As a frugal Dutchman, I have been making them for the last couple of years (I make almost everything myself, about 95%).

I take a round dowel, clamp it, on a drill press put in 3 holes in a triangle. 

Use my crude home made lathe and put the dowel in the chuck from the drill and use an abrassive cord to make the groove. 

Cut off the deadeye a bit wider and sand both sides a bit round.

As someone already said, if you only need a few, you can purchase them from any online store.

 

Marcus

Current Built: Zeehaen 1639, Dutch Fluit from Dutch explorer Abel J. Tasman

 

Unofficial motto of the VOC: "God is good, but trade is better"

 

Many people believe that Captain J. Cook discovered Australia in 1770. They tend to forget that Dutch mariner Willem Janszoon landed on Australia’s northern coast in 1606. Cook never even sighted the coast of Western Australia).

Posted
2 hours ago, Benjamin sullivan said:

but i'm hoping to sell the ship i am working on and i plan to get a mini wood lathe with the money

You may wish to explore what is realistic as far as what is the compensation for a ship model built from a kit.

The impression that I get is that they sell for about what is retail for the original kit.

It is possibly different for a scratch built model of a unique subject built by someone with an existing reputation as an artist,

Even then, based on a dollars per hour,  it is unlikely to match what a skilled senior professional in the trades would receive.  

For a kit, red state minimum wage is probably a dream.

NRG member 50 years

 

Current:  

NMS

HMS Ajax 1767 - 74-gun 3rd rate - 1:192 POF exploration - works but too intense -no margin for error

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - POF Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - POF Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner - POF framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner - POF timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835 packet hull USN ship - POF timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - POF framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

Posted (edited)

the sizes i need are 5mm and 2mm .

(40) 5mm and (20) 2mm ,the ship i'm building is the 1977 USS Essex frigate ,I have made it three Essex's so far and I am quite happy with the improvements just adding a few things each time as I get better to make it better and this time i'm hoping to add deadeyes and blocks.

 

Edited by Benjamin sullivan
Posted

  Ahoy, Ben !  You didn't mention what scale your model is.  2mm is really tiny, and likely difficult to make.  I ordered a group of deadeyes & blocks to go with either Cutty Sark or Thermopylae in 1:96 scale (e.g. the Revels kits) and they were not cheap, and the two deadeye sizes supplied were 3.5mm and 2.5mm  nominal (possibly a bit out of scale, but I can't see manipulating any deadeyes that are smaller.  I've got some 3mm deadeyes to use as an intermediate step for the backstay deadeyes, and use the 2.5mm ones aloft.

  

  The smallest single blocks are a mere 2mm ! ... and I don't know if I will be able to work with them - but I'll try to work out a method.  I'll use 1:100 to do the math (close enough to 1:96, and I won't have to use a calculator).  I also figure 25mm per inch (yeah, I know it's 25.4mm ... but rounding to 25 also makes the math easier when I round the scale as above).  OK, so 2mm x 100 = 200mm ... divided by 25 and the block represents a 8" block at 1:100 - so that would be for bunt blocks.

 

 No wonder its easier to rig a model  thats 1:48scale !   The downside is that large ships (like clippers) will be BIG models requiring big cases at 1:48.  'Guess thats why there are clipper kits in the compromise scale of between 1:70 to 1:75 - and then it is quite forgivable  to be a little out of scale on some items like blocks, deadeyes and belaying pins.

 

  

Completed builds:  Khufu Solar Barge - 1:72 Woody Joe

Current project(s): Gorch Fock restoration 1:100, Billing Wasa (bust) - 1:100 Billings, Great Harry (bust) 1:88 ex. Sergal 1:65

 

 

 

Posted
On 1/14/2019 at 9:42 PM, GrandpaPhil said:

To make deadeyes I’ve been using dowel rods.  I started by cutting the grooves with a knife.  Make sure when cutting the groove you make the first cut from the outside-in, otherwise the wood will split.   Next, I cut the deadeyes off.  Then I drill the holes and sand the deadeyes smooth.  

 

I started out predilling the holes in the dowel rod, but that caused alignment problems.

 

 I used an Excel hobby knife with a #11 X-Acto blade and a pinvise.

92B4D311-1878-46C7-8626-9557174ED8E8.jpeg

1E74BAF8-178F-451C-B802-F5F542233CA0.jpeg

158B904C-798E-4BD3-8CB0-41BDDBF12CC0.jpeg

F82D67CA-2E9B-4F82-8F32-BD3A3FC1AFCA.jpeg

0216A7C3-0166-4468-9F2E-6FCAA9856C7E.jpeg

That’s how I did it using a knife, a pinvise and a razor saw.

 

It would work for the 5mm, but for smaller deadeyes, it’s tricky unless you have a high density wood.

 

I usually buy smaller deadeyes.

Building:

1:200 Russian Battleship Oryol (Orel card kit)

1:64 HMS Revenge (Victory Models plans)

1:64 Cat Esther (17th Century Dutch Merchant Ships)

Posted

so I think I will buy them for this model but I know some places have better quailty ones and some don't .

I know a few people have suggested that syren has some good ones but while looking them up I noted that model expo has walnut ones andI think that syren's are boxwood or something and for the amount I need it seems to work out to less for the walnut ones but I don't know .

Posted (edited)

 Ben, you can use walnut stain on boxwood blocks and deadeyes. See post 294 and 297.

 

 

 

Edited by Keith Black

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

Posted (edited)

I noted that on syren they has each one for 36 cents or something but model expo has 40 pacts for 7$ which is the amount that I need (at least of the 5mm ones) .But .36 times 40 =$14.4 which is twice the price of the walnut ones but they appear to be a softer wood,

so I was wondering why that would be .are the syren ones higher quailty?

thank you again you have all been very helpfull ,and I feel like I an learning quite a lot.

Edited by Benjamin sullivan
Posted

Ben, buy a few extra because they will occasionally shoot off into the nether regions of you work area never to be seen or heard from again. :o

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

Posted

 

6 hours ago, Benjamin sullivan said:

do you have a prefered place to get them?

 I bought mine from Cornwall Model Boats in England but for a few you would want to buy from someone here in the US. 

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

Posted

 They will but they have a $50.00 order minimum. 

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

Posted
On 11/9/2022 at 12:31 PM, Benjamin sullivan said:

the sizes i need are 5mm and 2mm .

(40) 5mm and (20) 2mm ,the ship i'm building is the 1977 USS Essex frigate ,I have made it three Essex's so far and I am quite happy with the improvements just adding a few things each time as I get better to make it better and this time i'm hoping to add deadeyes and blocks.

 

Are your models of the Essex from kits?  I am a big fan of the Essex and so far have only been able to obtain the old 5/64 scale Model Shipways kit which is pretty much a block of wood to start a scratch project with.  I too end up in need of small blocks and deadeyes.  

 

Current Builds:  Revell 1:96 Thermopylae Restoration

                           Revell 1:96 Constitution COMPLETED

                           Aeropiccola HMS Endeavor IN ORDINARY

Planned Builds: Scientific Sea Witch

                            Marine Models USF Essex

                            

 

Posted
49 minutes ago, ScottRC said:

Are your models of the Essex from kits?  I am a big fan of the Essex and so far have only been able to obtain the old 5/64 scale Model Shipways kit which is pretty much a block of wood to start a scratch project with.  I too end up in need of small blocks and deadeyes.  

no it is a scratch build , i just really like the look of the ship, this is my first time adding deadeyes to any ship .

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