Lady Anne by kruginmi - FINISHED - 1:50 - kitbash of Artesania Latina Harvey

[Mirabell61]

nice and clean built ship Mark

 

keep those pics coming in....

 

Nils

[kruginmi]

My Lady Anne has sat patiently but today was the day I listened to her call.  I am pretty close to rigging so that will be a good companion to the Druid-X.

 

I dusted her off and re-oriented myself to where I left off.  The last item I had done was position the eyebolts.  This ship is to be rigged as an operating clipper ship, the Pride of Baltimore II is the plans I am basing this off of.  Lots more blocks, eyebolts and lines to lay than what the original kit intended.  Pretty much nothing left of the original kit Harvey at this level.

 

 

I had concerns with how well the eyebolts would stay simply glued in place on the deck.  I have looked at the various options for affixing them but arrived at a solution for the ones on the deck:  I will add plugs of walnut for a little more pop and the ability to clench the bottom of the eyebolts themselves.  

 

This was a simple matter of finding an available walnut dowel that I thought correctly sized and drilling a companion hole for the dowel to fit in.  The dowel itself was drilled through for the eyebolt to pass and clenched down.  There are over 20 eyebolts to do but that shouldn't take too long.

 

 

After dry a couple swipes with some sandpaper should clean any residue up.  This is a fun build that I do what I want.  I will finish her this year.

 

I need to really think about what finish to use.  Suggestions are welcomed.

 

Mark

[SGraham]

Mark,

I just read through your build log. Wow, what great detail. I especially like the windlass you made. Was that scratch built or per the kit plans? Thanks for posting. Very inspiring!

 

Steve

[kruginmi]

Thanks Steve for stopping by!

 

The only kit original portion is the hull form.  Everything else has been scratch from me to produce a replica of a Baltimore Clipper.  The windlass was a composite from views / plans I saw on the web and this site that I liked.  Since this is not based on a specific ship but a class of ships I have free range to do what appeals to me (thus the fun build part).

 

The rigging is based on the Pride of Baltimore implementation (as on the real ship).  Lots of fun in my future.

 

Mark

[egkb]

Hey There Mark... Great to see her back up and running again !

 

Eamonn

[kruginmi]

Thanks Eamonn.  I am trying to focus on getting projects done (without losing the fun).  It is time this one is finished up.

 

Next up is a totally new cabin entry way.

 

Mark

[egkb]

Good Stuff Mark, BTW I was just over on your Cross Section (Hadn't spotted that one !  ) and it is flippin' awesome!!  you make it all look sooo simple.

 

All The Best

 

Eamonn

[kruginmi]

I have worked my way through affixing all 50+ eyebolts.  About half of those were put in by the plugs described earlier.  Towards the stern two ring bolts each side were too close together for individual plugs so I cut a rectangular one that encompassed both bolts.

 

 

So the next step was to move on to the rudder.  I keep reminding myself that the point of this build was to provide a basis for learning rigging techniques, that the main hull was supposed to be out of the box.  So much for that plan.  The rudder provided by the kit was a large chunk of walnut cut to the shape of a rudder.  My first step was to look in Crother's book on clipper ship rudders and it was seen this was a pretty good form:

 

 

However, more than one chunk of wood was used.  It is interesting to note that some of the beams drawn out do taper to a sharp point, the first instance where I have seen this done on an external hull in actual practice.  Trying to keep this build going forward (and get to the rigging) I penciled in the beam lines into the kit rudder and scraped them to provide a resemblance of the separate pieces.

 

 

Another challenge that presented itself was the tiller arm.  Looking on deck with the rudder now in place, the attachment of the tiller is pretty far back towards the back rail.  I will have to think this through on how to work this.  I always have the option of making a rudder box obscuring the whole thing.

 

 

Stay Building my Friends,

Mark

[SGraham]

Nothing personal, Mark, but nice knees! Also, great job on that rudder. Having the visible seams works well. Thanks for sharing.

 

Steve

[kruginmi]

Quick update with an hour in the shipyard tonight.  The rudder just kept nagging at me, that I was settling.  The bottom line is that I did not have walnut of the width necessary to build the rudder from scratch.  Then it hit me, why replace the whole rudder?  How bad would it look to laminate boards onto a core?  Only one way to find out - try it out.

 

I sanded the existing rudder to a little under a 1/2 of its original width.  This accounted for two 1/16" laminates plus a little more to make it more pleasing to my eye.  I did this with the spindle sander taking a 1/4 off each side to keep the tiller arm centered.  Then using the pattern showed earlier I added the faux planks to each side.  After some sanding and....

 

 

I am pleasantly surprised that even the edge on look doesn't appear too bad.  I am satisfied now.  Now for silver soldering some rudder hanging hardware.

 

mark

[jct]

Hi Mark,

I saw your comments over on Steve's build and had to take a peek at yours...I'll follow with interest.  Excellent workmanship

THX
J

Edited February 17, 2015 by jct

[kruginmi]

Thanks J for the kind comment.

 

Any help is welcomed over here with this ship!  

 

I think I stated earlier my main intent was to learn rigging with this build but I haven't even gotten to that point yet!  Maybe this year....(hah hah).

 

Mark

[SGraham]

Mark, that rudder is beautiful. Those seams are eye-catching. Is it going to be oiled?

 

Steve

[kruginmi]

Steve,

 

Currently my default is using the same stuff as on the Druid:  General Finishes Gel Urethane.  I definitely do need to commit sometime soon since after the rudder I will be applying the finish.  No colored paint for this build.  I am open to other suggestions.......

 

On a side note it has been stated by my wife that there is really no place in the house for a ship this size.  I have always said it is the journey and not the destination so that doesn't bother me right now.  However, it looks like my older brother 'might' be getting engaged pretty soon.  He has a whopper of a fireplace that is looking pretty lonely so this build might turn into a wedding gift.  Might up the tempo and pace of the build.....

 

Mark

[kruginmi]

Onto the rudder hinges.  The generic hardware provided with the kit just didn't do it for me and with the success of the built ones for the Druid I really had no choice (hah hah) but to go down the same route.

 

First up was cutting strips for the 4 hinges required.  My raw brass sheet was wide enough to provide enough strip for each hinge set.

 

 

Simply define the width and run the blade over this line a few times.  I then gently wrap this edge over the edge of a piece of wood using gentle hammer strokes followed by returning it flat.  Then I grab it with my small pliers and with a little wiggle the strip snaps off.  I had previously bought a brass tube and rod that perfectly fits inside for the hinge mechanism.

 

For silver soldering there has been lots of posts but essentially the ingredients are:

 

 

Acetone for cleaning the brass, water for cooling after, flux (the right stuff), the silver solder pieces and finally the torch.

 

The tube was first soldered to the strip and then cut to size.  After repeating this eight times I then soldered four rods for the mating pieces.

 

 

After it was all done (less than an hour) I did an initial bend and everything looks good.  Still some refinement but another hour or so and these will be ready for blackening.  The original kit piece is in the upper left.

 

 

Very solid (and permanent).  It will look like a million bucks soon.  Next step is to drill holes for the bolts, bend to shape and get them configured to the hull.

 

Stay building my friends,

Mark

[jct]

Nice work on those hinges

[NenadM]

Helo, I have just dropped to watch with interest

 

Nice soldering. Something I just/still have to learn. Much better with silver than regular

 

Nenad

Edited February 23, 2015 by Nenad M

[egkb]

Hey there Mark.. the hinges look a treat, you make it look so easy !  I just finished doing the exact same thing over on Ballahoo..   

 

All The Best

 

Eamonn

[kruginmi]

Thanks for all the kudos on the hinges, but give me another hour or so in the shop to make them really pop - then people will see why I went this direction!  Lots of bending now for a good tight fit and correct profile.  I will slightly mortise these onto the rudder.

 

Eamonn, spot on with your work.  

 

Absolute key to silver soldering is using the right flux (then prep).  When all is well, this is quite easy.  You heat the piece carefully until the silver chip simply disappears - wicks into the join.  Cool off with water and then on to the next.

 

Mark

Edited February 23, 2015 by kruginmi

[egkb]

Thanks Mark.. I look forward to seeing your finished Hinges!

 

E

[SGraham]

Thanks for sharing the details about silver soldering. I just ordered a torch and will be referencing your comments when it arrives.

 

Steve

[jct]

I'm curious if you find an advantage to silver as opposed to the lead/tin solders, and what they might be?

[kruginmi]

I cannot do any sort of exhaustive comparison that is for sure, but silver soldering is so straight forward and so strong it is what I use.  I was fortunate to be led to the setup I have from a jewelry-smith (again, if it is standard for jewelry another reason to use it for ships).  BTW:  my flux dried up previously and I tried all sorts of stuff that didn't work - the silver chip refused to melt.  I finally ordered the flux originally told to use and wham o - instantly back to success.

 

You can also get silver solder at three different melting points to allow complex joins from different pieces without worrying about undoing previous solders.  I haven't required this as of yet.

 

My bag of silver solder chips will probably last until I am 6 ft under.  The smallest piece is usually more than sufficient.

 

Mark

[kruginmi]

Here is a closeup of the two main components:

 

[jct]

interesting...must you use a torch or do you think a soldering iron would do the trick?  I ask because I've multiple irons from small for electronics work to large for stained glass work, I'd like to forgo purchasing a torch if possible?

THX

J

[kruginmi]

J,

 

My belief is that a torch is pretty much required (I bought mine locally for ~$25).  You put the chip right next to the join and heat.  Any sort of iron would need to really target where the heat is applied into some really cramped places.  Refillable with butane, really easy to fire up.

 

I don't know if I have mentioned, but a heat pad capable of absorbing high temps is also required.

 

Mark

[jct]

Hi Mark...thanks much for the info, defiantly worth considering in the future

[kruginmi]

Back in the shop working to complete the rudder assembly....

 

I first added the metalwork to the rudder itself.  I figured out where it should fit and mortised in a channel to insure the metalwork went were it was fitted everytime.  In this view I have not installed the bolts.

 

 

Next up was getting the matching work on the hull.  I started with the top most hinge first and again mortised in the location but this time only on the rudder post.

 

 

After rough fitting I cut the bolt holes into the brasswork before final fitting and then blackening.  The issue here was to insure you installed the mating pieces so the rudder will fit into them all at once in a somewhat centered location.  The second hinge installed was the bottom and only then the middle ones.  Check, check and recheck.  This view shows three complete hinges installed without the bolts:

 

 

Finally after a bit of work you can step back and see the final effect.  Since this was a working boat I didn't want the perfect rudder workings and achieved the effect (without any extra effort - of course).  hah hah.

 

 

Now to work the steering mechanism.  Of course I have decided to add a ships wheel and drum just forward of the tiller arm.  More lathe work but how could I settle on something different?  I also need to clean up the top of the rudder with the leather gasket - will help to get a good look to the stern below the tiller arm.

 

On a side note my time is already getting a little compressed.  Even though the temp is just above 0 degrees Fahrenheit I have set my sights on three sprint triathlons this summer meaning training has already begun - 45 minutes on the bike this morning (on a trainer in the basement).  Oh well, staying healthy will hopefully mean more years to build.  Long term gain for short term loss.

 

Mark

 

 

[kruginmi]

A little over a year, not too bad.  The workshop is reconfigured and the Lady Anne finds itself once again on the bench.  It took awhile to find all the bits (including those new belaying pins) but I think I am back to the status quo.  Deck house undergoing major redo (very little is glued).  Accounting for over a 100 deck tie down requirements (not counting belaying pins).  The second image identifies these points are cross references to the procured Pride of Baltimore plans upon which the rigging will be based on.

 

Excited to get back at it.  I can't predict how much time will be available but someone has said the wood always waits, and that has been proven many times.  Time for that deckhouse

 

Stay building my friends, Mark.

[kruginmi]

First up was the main cabin.  I had a couple previous attempts that never quite fit the bill.  Being the Captain (and not replicating a specific ship so naysayers handcuffed) I mulled it over and jumped in.  A couple of hours later and I stand back to a finished piece.  I opted for the sliding top with a panel that slides up and out to reveal the stairwell.  A couple of 1/48 friends have joined the build to insure everything works.  

 

All the deck furniture is still removable.  Next up is to get stuff nailed down.  - Mark