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HMS Granado by ir3 - CAF - 1:48 - POF


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Well, I tried to install frame 25 into the jig and there is no way it is going to happen. This kit is way above my pay grade, and I am just bringing it to an end. I am very happy for those that have managed to get the frames installed but there is a skill here that I just do not possess. My adventures into trying a wood ship model like this is over. Thanks for the encouragement.

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Ir3, you forgot to add the word yet  to your statement that you don't have the skill.  I am a newbie here less than two  years, and remember how excited I was about going down this rabbit hole lol.  May I suggest that you shelf  this one for awhile get a few  less intricate  ones.  Then come back and nail the sucker . It's a journey  we just have to take a different  route,  but we will get there  .  Hope you understand  what I am trying to convey  to you. :cheers:

 

Start so you can Finish !!

Finished:            The  Santa Maria -Amati 1:65, La Pinta- Amati 1:65, La Nina -Amati 1:65 ,                                                Hannah Ship in a Bottle -1:300  The Sea of Galilee Boat-Scott Miller-1:20 ,The Mayflower Amati 1:60

non Ship Build:   1972 Ford Sport Custom Truck

 Current Build:    Viking Ship Drakkar -Amati-1:50

On Hold:            HMS Pegasus: Amati 

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I think it would be a good idea to build all the frames that sit directly on the keel. I think the instructions allude to that. Make sure each frame fits in the slots in the assembly jig. The only problem is that if the slots are not wide enough which was one of my problems, after widening them there may be a question of keeping the frame vertical. But if the frames properly fit in the jig slots than it should only be fine tuning if the frame does not slip in smoothly. My problem is even after cleaning all the laser burn off rib 25 and widening the slots, it still will not slide in unless a lot of force is used. I just didn't want to go through all this with 40+ ribs. It should be going a lot smoother than I experienced.

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I do have some concerns about this style of building jig. I can add this to the list. I agree you shouldn't have to go through all of this.

Jeff

 

In progress:
Medway Longboat 1742 - Syren Ship Model Company -1/2" scale

USS Constitution - Model Shipways - Scale 1:76

HMS Granado - CAF Model - 1:48

HMS Sphinx - Vanguard

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Lessons learned. Build each frame over the plan to make sure it is not too wide. Fit the frame to the keel. Adjust the slots in the jig as needed to slide the frame in. After correcting frame 25 and widening the slots in the jig, the frame fits nicely. Forty plus frames to go.

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Still learning. When assembling the 4-layer frames over the plan, the hole near the top of the frame must be spot on. This determines the exact height of the frame within the building jig. I did not notice this when I built frame 25, just a bit hasty and not reading the instructions several times.

 

 

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We're gaining on it. Frames 20 - 26 were built off the plans and needed extensive rework to get them to fit. It took a considerable amount of time, but lesson learned. From this point forward, each frame will be built on the plan and installation should take a lot less time and go much smoother.

 

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On 4/12/2023 at 3:29 PM, ir3 said:

Lessons learned. Build each frame over the plan to make sure it is not too wide. Fit the frame to the keel. Adjust the slots in the jig as needed to slide the frame in. After correcting frame 25 and widening the slots in the jig, the frame fits nicely. Forty plus frames to go.

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And poof just like that new skill acquired. Good job! And as a great sailor once said ‘ Don’ t give up the ship’

Regards,

Jim Rogers

 

Damn the Torpedoes , Full speed ahead.   Adm David Farragut.

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  • 2 weeks later...

More progress. Frames 8 - 26 are now roughed in. Now starting on 27 - 45. What bothers me a bit is that even building directly over the plan, some of frames seem to be to narrow. This to be dealt with when the frames are finalized and then glued to the keel. More to come.

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  • 4 weeks later...

All of the frames that sit directly on the keel, 8 - 45, are finished and the built-up bow frames are roughed in. It was nice that the frames 1 - 7 fit very nicely in the building jig and required very little adjusting of the slots in the jig for a good fit. Now to get the aft frames 46 - 53 installed.  I didn't get a picture of frames 27 - 45 installed so next update will have all the frames shown.

 

 

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Frame 53 is in. With nothing more to do with the keel I started adding frames. This is where it starts to get enjoyable! Not having any previous experience my thought is to place the frames that have the height setting features that are built into the assembly jig. Having done this, the selected frames have the correct height. Next, fit the keelson. With this properly fitted, but not glued in yet, the frames that are installed will be correct and will be the reference for installing the remaining frames on the keel. I hope this makes sense. More to follow.

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Thanks for the comments and likes, much appreciated. The before and after pictures of the keelson are included. Now that the keelson sits properly on the frames present and the ends of the keel structure, each added frame can get adjusted before gluing in. Should make adding the remaining frames a simple task. More to follow. The first two pictures show how far off the keelson was with respect to the installed frames and the second two show the correct fit.

 

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have all the frames installed and 4 of the stern frames installed. There are two more stern frames to be installed but there was a problem with one of the CNC parts which Tom will be sending replacements. In the meantime, I started looking through Part 2 and came up with a problem. There are two deck clamps that need to be located. The kit provides very clever templates to locate the position of the clamps. The problem is that the templates appeared to be used without the lower gunport sills installed. The instructions show the lower and upper gunport sills installed at the end of part 1 and the templates shown being supported on the sills in part 2. This places the markings for the deck clamps 2mm higher than they should be. There are two choices: mark out the position of the clamps and then lower the markings by 2mm or cut 2mm notches in the templates. I am including a photo of the template sitting on the lower port sill and a picture of the design from the CAF thread showing what appears to be notches in the templates sitting on the port sills. I am tempted to do this as it will make the marking out correct. If I have to move the marks made with the templates sitting on the port sills, it will be prone to error.

 

Any comments would be appreciated.

 

Until next time,

 

IR3

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Good catch, and while it is not a great place to be in, I am sure Tom is greatly appreciating the feedback and is very glad that you are finding any and all potential roadblocks or issues with the kit that he can address.  Hang in there my good man, and carry on!  It looks awesome!!!!

 

Edited by HardeeHarHar
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That's amazing progress!  I'm so glad you persevered through the frame 25 problems.  I'm looking at the template issue and it looks like the 3d image shows either a notch for the sill or the sill and template occupying the same space.  Are the deck clamps made for you or do you have to cut them out of wood stock?

Current Build:

HMS Winchelsea 1:48 (Group Project)

 

Completed Builds:

Virginia 1819 Artesania Latina - 1:41 

 

 

 

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I opted for the notches and the results are very gratifying. The template sits on the keelson, it conforms to the shape of the frame, and sits properly on the assembly jig. With the template fitting properly, the deck clamps will be properly located. Now to the other three templates. The kit has the deck clamps already cut and notched. They need to be steamed to bend to the correct shape. So now it will be a short wait for the replacement stern frames and part 1 can be wrapped up. It has been a struggle up to now, but I think it will be smooth sailing, pardon the pun, from here on out.

 

Until next time,

 

IR3

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Your framing looks excellent. The notches look to be the right way to go, and that was a good catch.

Jeff

 

In progress:
Medway Longboat 1742 - Syren Ship Model Company -1/2" scale

USS Constitution - Model Shipways - Scale 1:76

HMS Granado - CAF Model - 1:48

HMS Sphinx - Vanguard

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Framing is very well done IR3

How deep are the scores in the clamps?  When they were scored (and this was not always done according to Goodwin in The Construction and Fitting of the English Man of War) it was only an inch, so at your scale 0.02"   I have found it difficult to do this before installing them and get them to perfectly align port and starboard so if I score them it has been easier for me to do this after they are fixed in place.  Using pre-scored clamps, I hope yours are easier to align than I have experienced. 

Allan

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

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Thanks for the comments and the likes. I have not gotten to that point of installing the clamps yet. I am waiting for replacement parts to finish the stern, so I decided to fit the templates and understand how to mark out the position of the clamps. I suppose adding the clamps at this point would not be a problem but I will wait till the stern is complete.

 

Another comment on notching out the templates. There is a CAF Granado thread on the other site and in that thread the modeler came up with the same solution and decided to notch out the templates to fit since the gunport framing is added at the end of Part 1. For those builders who wish to avoid this problem, I would suggest marking out the position of the clamps before adding the gunport framing.

 

Until next time,

 

IR3

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