Planking improvement

[Picard]

Hi,

i'm trying to improve my planking technique (like everyone) and i have a couple of question for you.

This is a picture of my last WIP: the 18th century longboat. It's very fun to build and i tried to apply the Chuck Passaro method.

The arrows show 2 problems i encountered here, and in my last build as well.

• The fissures between the plank, you any suggestion to reduce this kind of gap? Maybe i didn't sand the bulkhead properly? Or it could be a tapering issue?
• The plank on bow have different size and are not very realistic. How do you taper the edge of the plank to obtain an uniform size?

 

 

Thanks in advance for your reply!

 

Simo

 

[allanyed]

Did you bevel the frames before planking?   If so, it looks like the plank above the one with the left red arrow is not seated completely against the bulkhead.   I have found that soaking the plank thoroughly then clamping it to the frames without glue works well.  Be sure the clamps have soft faces or put a piece of cardboard or soft wood between the wet plank and face of the clamp to prevent denting the plank.   Then, heat it with a hot air gun for a minute or two.  (Her hair dryer will work, but there are consequences if you get caught.)  Once done you can remove the plank and it will hold the shape.  Then you can glue it in place with finger pressure, no clamps.  This will help assure the plank is seated well.  Be sure it is completely dry as it will be expanded while wet, then shrink once dry.

 

Alternatively, spile the planks.   There is an excellent tutorial on here in the MSW articles data base by David Antscherl on how to do this.  I find this a much better way to shape the planks for harder wood species.  If your build is a kit, you will have to get sheet stock as you cannot use strip wood to spile a plank.

 

Allan

[Chuck Seiler]

    While definitely NOT an expert in planking (I struggle on a regular basis) I see some areas that might be helpful.  

    I believe your garboard strake does not go far enough forward and bends down.  I always have problems with the garbord, but getting it right is one key to proper planking.  Continuing it as indicated gives a better angle for the next plank and sets up a better distance for follow-on planks.  This allows the follow-on planks to be tapered to fit the hull, whether spiled or edge-bent.

[Picard]

18 hours ago, allanyed said:

Did you bevel the frames before planking?   If so, it looks like the plank above the one with the left red arrow is not seated completely against the bulkhead.   I have found that soaking the plank thoroughly then clamping it to the frames without glue works well.  Be sure the clamps have soft faces or put a piece of cardboard or soft wood between the wet plank and face of the clamp to prevent denting the plank.   Then, heat it with a hot air gun for a minute or two.  (Her hair dryer will work, but there are consequences if you get caught.)  Once done you can remove the plank and it will hold the shape.  Then you can glue it in place with finger pressure, no clamps.  This will help assure the plank is seated well.  Be sure it is completely dry as it will be expanded while wet, then shrink once dry.

Yes, i bevel the frames (and the plank as well) but maybe not so well. I did an edge bending on the planks, but i'll consider your approach next time, it could be useful.

 

18 hours ago, allanyed said:

Alternatively, spile the planks.   There is an excellent tutorial on here in the MSW articles data base by David Antscherl on how to do this.  I find this a much better way to shape the planks for harder wood species.  If your build is a kit, you will have to get sheet stock as you cannot use strip wood to spile a plank.

 

Allan

I excluded the spiling right now, it seems too hard to handle for my skills. Maybe it'll be an option in the future.

 

Thanks a lot!

[Picard]

17 hours ago, Chuck Seiler said:

    While definitely NOT an expert in planking (I struggle on a regular basis) I see some areas that might be helpful.  

    I believe your garboard strake does not go far enough forward and bends down.  I always have problems with the garbord, but getting it right is one key to proper planking.  Continuing it as indicated gives a better angle for the next plank and sets up a better distance for follow-on planks.  This allows the follow-on planks to be tapered to fit the hull, whether spiled or edge-bent.

 

Actually the instructions said: "The garboard plank should start just ahead of the scarph joint at the bow. Don’t start it too far forward because your planks will need to taper too much in order to fit ten strips.". 

I did not taper the plank above the garboard, thinking it wasn't necessary, but i was wrong.

 

Thanks!

[Jaager]

Maybe try to leave the top edge of the garboard strake straight?

The bottom edge straight where the keel rabbet is parallel with the baseline?

Only trim the bottom edge where the stem rabbet is rising and to fit the sternpost rabbet?

Save the width adjustment for the rest of the planks between the garboard and the wale?

 

I have seen a few ships where the garboard was twice the thickness of the rest of the bottom planking.

There may have been enough differential movement stress between what the keel wanted to do and the garboard wanted to do that making the garboard less than robust was a bad idea.

[Chuck Seiler]

On 12/14/2022 at 6:42 AM, Jaager said:

I have seen a few ships where the garboard was twice the thickness of the rest of the bottom planking

Thickness or width...or both?

[Jaager]

I think that Mother Nature limits the width possible - except for CA Redwood size timber, so I have not made much note of the width - believing 10"-12" to be the outside limit.  No reference to footnote.

 

It was the thickness.  It was from the 1840-1860 large commercial carrier - speed = money period that my memory wants to assign this.  I was thinking when I saw it - they really could have used a laminar flow test tank to see the effect of sharp irregular edges of the step down planking.

Edited December 15, 2022 by Jaager

[No Idea]

Hi Picard - firstly I think your planking is actually pretty good and it just so happens you are comparing your efforts to a very experienced builder.

 

So this may not be popular but many issues with planking including my own is time.  Planking takes a lot of time to get right.  

 

It just cannot be rushed and takes a lot of planning and fitting - if a plank doesn't look right its probably not but often its easier just to glue it on.

 

Keep going buddy  - make mistakes just like everyone else including me as its a great learning curve.

 

Incorrect bevels tend to lead to wide gaps between planks and incorrect tapers make the planks look crowded at the stem.

 

This is just my thoughts - Cheers Mark

[Picard]

1 hour ago, No Idea said:

Hi Picard - firstly I think your planking is actually pretty good and it just so happens you are comparing your efforts to a very experienced builder.

 

So this may not be popular but many issues with planking including my own is time.  Planking takes a lot of time to get right.  

 

It just cannot be rushed and takes a lot of planning and fitting - if a plank doesn't look right its probably not but often its easier just to glue it on.

 

Keep going buddy  - make mistakes just like everyone else including me as its a great learning curve.

 

Incorrect bevels tend to lead to wide gaps between planks and incorrect tapers make the planks look crowded at the stem.

 

This is just my thoughts - Cheers Mark

Hi,

first of all, thank you for reply.

You got a point: is easier just to glue the piece thinking “one plank less”. Just today i told myself that i can improve only with time and patience. Maybe repeating a job if i’m not satisfied of it.  I’ll keep in mind this suggestion.

 

Talking about the plano bevel, this was the first time i did. So i have to pratice and better understand the technique.

Ad majora 

 

 

 

[garyshipwright]

Hi Picard. One way to look at it, wood is very forgiving.  If you don't get it right the first time try try again. It does give you experience so keep going and before you know it your be able to plank a hull in no time at all. As far as planking a hull am still working at it to get it just right. Gary

[Gregory]

While it might be a little late for this build, the instructions for the Syren Ship Model Medway Long boat, available here:

https://syrenshipmodelcompany.com/medway-longboat-1742.php

 

is a great planking guide for this and similar builds.

 

While the Medway Longboat kit provides pre-spilled planks, the same results can be achieved with edge bending.

 

The videos found here:

Will show you how to bend planks to make them lay flat on a curved bow and avoid the gaps you refer to up above.

 

The same thing can be achieved with spiling, but spiling may not be practical with a kit, where wider stock for cutting your own planks has not been provided.

 

[LyleK1]

I might also suggest the half hull project from NRG's store.

It's inexpensive and is a great teaching tool specifically geared toward planking.

Having said all of that, as others have expressed, it's a learning experience and I've found you get better with time and experience.

I think the work you've shown is decent!

Keep after it!