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USS Constitution by Hipexec - FINISHED - Constructo - 1:82


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What I did was use the guides to hold the mast upright and mostly in position. Then I attached the lower shrouds. I am using these to perform the final alignment. Since the masts are not glued in, I can change the rake or side to side with the shrouds. 

Bill

Chantilly, VA

 

Its not the size of the ship, but the bore of the cannon!

 

Current Build: Scratch Build Brig Eagle

 

Completed Build Log: USS Constitution - Mamoli

Completed Build Gallery: USS Constitution - Mamoli

 

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Hi Rich:

After checking the MS plans, I found the rake varies between the masts with 3 degrees at the Fore, 3.5 at themain, and 5 at the Mizzen. As far as seizing goes, a picture tells a much better story than I could.

post-12186-0-33767300-1415810041_thumb.png

Edited by GLakie

GEORGE

 

MgrHa7Z.gif

 

Don't be bound by the limits of what you already know, be unlimited by what you are willing to learn.

 

Member of the Nautical Research Guild

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Rich, The lines between the deadeyes.  I was wondering if after you spaced them and ran the lanyard, brush them with thinned white glue.

David B

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The line between the dead eyes is called the 'laniard' (old spelling, presumably just lanyard now).  The seizing is where a small rope is wrapped around a larger rope in order to secure it.

post-14925-0-89878000-1415828166_thumb.jpg

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Brian,

Thanks for the pic.  They will be siezed. The lines between the deadeyes have been painted with 50/50 PVA to make them keep shape. 

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Brian,

Thanks for the pic.  They will be siezed. The lines between the deadeyes have been painted with 50/50 PVA to make them keep shape. 

 

Looks like George posted the same picture (just not zoomed in) 2 posts up from mine.  I'm slow.

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I want to thank all of you for your concern. I shall take it all in and proceed down the path of least trouble for my thick thumbs and shaky fingers. I picked up a few tips at our new club, "The Arizona Shipwrights" that will ease the way for an amateur like me.

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We had a member who did his shrouds off the model and when he put them where they belonged they were ll over the place.

David B

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Believe it or not....I think I have a few tricks up my sleeve...experimental of course....if they work, I shall reveal them. If not I will confess and start over doing it another way. The standing rigging will be installed on the ship. I would make a catastrophic mistake doing it off. I experimented with the deck cannons and that trick worked. 

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While I'm making deadeyes, chain plates and siezings....I installed the ship's bell. It's eight bells now, so I have to run.

post-4214-0-32688300-1416163846_thumb.jpg

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FYI, when I was at that stage in my build I noticed I had two bells in the kit. Since the Connie has a bell attached to the mast, and the Mamoli plans only showed the one in the belfry on the foredeck, I asked Popeye2Sea about the mast bell and should it have two. He said this was a modern addition to the ship. It looks good though!

Bill

Chantilly, VA

 

Its not the size of the ship, but the bore of the cannon!

 

Current Build: Scratch Build Brig Eagle

 

Completed Build Log: USS Constitution - Mamoli

Completed Build Gallery: USS Constitution - Mamoli

 

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I guess that would depend on how coordinated the two bell ringers wiuld be!

Bill

Chantilly, VA

 

Its not the size of the ship, but the bore of the cannon!

 

Current Build: Scratch Build Brig Eagle

 

Completed Build Log: USS Constitution - Mamoli

Completed Build Gallery: USS Constitution - Mamoli

 

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This is about as good and short of an explanation you can find. From our own Chuck Passaro's Confederacy on the MS site: 

   "During 17th and 18th centuries, the Admiralty Board of the Royal Navy required builders to submit a model of a ship proposed for construction. Only then, upon consideration, would the Board approve funding for it. Called admiralty models, these were some of the finest ever made. They were unrigged with exposed hull and deck framing to allow inspection of the vessel’s architecture, deck furnishings and decorative work in a three-dimensional format."

 

Cheers  :cheers:

GEORGE

 

MgrHa7Z.gif

 

Don't be bound by the limits of what you already know, be unlimited by what you are willing to learn.

 

Member of the Nautical Research Guild

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Besides higher up on a transom for instance, I haven't heard of any vertical planking yet, but I could be wrong. If you mean the vertical runs on the Confederacy, those are the exposed frames for the planking.

 

Cheers 

GEORGE

 

MgrHa7Z.gif

 

Don't be bound by the limits of what you already know, be unlimited by what you are willing to learn.

 

Member of the Nautical Research Guild

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What's the order for attaching all the shrouds to the mast so I don't have a big rat's nest? 

post-4214-0-79404000-1416962881_thumb.jpg

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Start the pairs front to back and alternate sides. Other than that I don't think it matters which mast you do first.

Bill

Chantilly, VA

 

Its not the size of the ship, but the bore of the cannon!

 

Current Build: Scratch Build Brig Eagle

 

Completed Build Log: USS Constitution - Mamoli

Completed Build Gallery: USS Constitution - Mamoli

 

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Port side then starboard side or starboard side then port side - which ever way you start you want to alternate sides.  I generally start with either the stern-most deadeye and work toward the bow alternating port-starboard. Or I start at the bow-most deadeye and work towards the stern, Do this for each mast. I generally start with the foremast and work my way aft. Each shroud overlaps the previous shroud at the trestle-tree. Sorry I don't have a diagram or way to draw it here.

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According to Lees, the proper order is pendants first, then the shrouds in pairs, beginning with the forward starboard pair, then the forward port pair and alternating aft. With regard to which mast to begin with, I have long believed it best to start at the mizzen and work forward. The reason is that access for attachment of the forward end of the stays is easier without interference from the shrouds on the forward mast.

 

Bob

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The main thing I found out was balance. If you add a shroud pair to one side, it must be matched by a pair on the other side. If you add a forestay it needs to have the backstay next. In this manner I was able to tension the rig without causing distortion. Not that I have completed the tensioning but I am on my way. 

Bill

Chantilly, VA

 

Its not the size of the ship, but the bore of the cannon!

 

Current Build: Scratch Build Brig Eagle

 

Completed Build Log: USS Constitution - Mamoli

Completed Build Gallery: USS Constitution - Mamoli

 

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Thanks everyone. It makes sense to do it that way. I just stacked them on from one side and it looked awful, so I knew it was wrong. I'll start over.

Thanks

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Here's a fairly decent diagram of some shroud variations.

 

post-12186-0-31766400-1417044902_thumb.png

 

Cheers & Happy Thanksgiving

Edited by GLakie

GEORGE

 

MgrHa7Z.gif

 

Don't be bound by the limits of what you already know, be unlimited by what you are willing to learn.

 

Member of the Nautical Research Guild

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Nice of George to provide that drawing.  I pretty much use what's in Fig. 1

Augie

 

Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64

 

Previous Builds :

 

US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

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