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Norwegian Sailing Pram by MajorChaos - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:12


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Build 2 of the 3 part series Become A Shipwright of Old. Norwegian Sailing Pram. Kit number MS1471

 

The Grand Banks Dory was completed on March 20th, 2023. The build log for that is in other places of course. 
 

The Dory

The Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack build

 

The plan is to learn and build my way into a larger project with some skill and confidence to make it turn out well. So far the learning has been useful. This kit is a bit more complicated. But it does look like fun. 
 

I bought the full size real plans from Simon Watts, they did help answer many questions about how to build. The plans were $30 and were a pfd download with the rights to print the 3 full size sheets actual size, a local printer shop would be needed. It was well worth the $30 to get a great idea how to do certain parts. 

 

Started on March 18th, 2023. 

 

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Bow and stern transoms. The bevel was handy as described to bevel the stern transom. Knowing what I know as I write this, the stern knee needs to be a tad above the top (bottom) of the stern. I had to add a little to the stern to make it work better. 

 

The instructions say the rear stern in 2 parts has exactly 1/8 overlay. The small marks kind of make you think they should line up. It might make the stern transom to short if glued in place there. Time will tell if I made the right location to glue it. 

 

The building form was easy enough. I securely glued the bow support. The middle pieces are a tight fit. The stern is not glued. 

 

 

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Stern and bow transoms ready to go. The stern transom beveling was to short in the middle if the knee was higher (lower as its upside down) it would be better. The height is the thickness of the bottom planks. 

 

Bending the bottom planks is easy with a cup of room temp water and an acid brush to soak the plank. Soaked and then bent gently in my fingers to the curve needed. Gently working and stretching the plank in to the curve. Twisting and gently working the wood loose so it will bend. Resoaking helps. Its less than a minute to do, none of them have been done with hot water. I would think it would make a wet noodle of wood that hot and soaked. The soak and bend keeps the shape and doesn't go back when held and dried. 

 

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I didn't get a picture of the fill pieces added. Under the center plank the knee and the transom are filled to the thickness of the bottom planks. It turned out well. 

 

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Moving on to the garboard planks. After wetting the planks they dry at least 2-3 hours so they stop changing size. If glued when wet I imagine they would pull the shape all over the place. The first rabbit cuts for the planks occurs on the garboard plank. 

 

My plank holding method is quickly running out of options. The garboards will be ok to hold this way, the second strake plank and the sheer plank need a different holding method. Maybe. 

 

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Nice start, Major!  You will have fun with this build!  Using rubber bands along with the clamps will help hold planks in place, as well.

Gregg

 

Current Projects:                                                             Completed Projects:                                                                 Waiting for Shipyard Clearance:

 Santa Maria Caravelle 1:48 - Ships of Pavel Nikitin     Norwegian Sailing Pram 1:12 - Model Shipways                    Yacht America Schooner 1851 1:64 - Model Shipways

                                                                                              Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack 1:24 - Model Shipways        RMS Titanic 1:300 - OcCre  (Couldn't help myself when it was on sale)

                                                                                              H.M. Schooner Ballahoo 1:64 - Caldercraft                             USS Constitution  1:76 - Model Shipways

                                                                                              Bluenose 1921 1:64 - Model Shipways 

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10 hours ago, GGibson said:

Nice start, Major!  You will have fun with this build!  Using rubber bands along with the clamps will help hold planks in place, as well.


Thanks! I’ve got some good rubber bands on standby. 

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Training wood with water. Getting ready to dunk the next two pieces. 

 

The rabbit cuts are easy with a needle file. The diamond coated needle files work very well. 

 

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Edited by MajorChaos
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One more round without rubber bands. The wood wetting method I'm using is making easy work of the planks. They stay at the shape of the bend and almost put themselves in place. 

 

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Edited by MajorChaos
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No rubber bands yet. The wood just sits here and drys, it shrinks a little over time so it needs a nudge back in place. 

 

The stern and bow are looking good. Small error at the bow, the glue set and it wasn't worth the effort to get it centered. I even missed my line. 

 

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The wood is so well behaved. It just sits here in perfect shape ready to get glued in place. A small bead of glue from one end to the other. By the time I got to the last 2 planks I had this down to a science. This being meant for training, worked very well to train me on the wetting and shaping of wood. 

 

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Whiles stuff dried I started the dagger board case. I had to wait to glue it until I could shape the bottom on the center plank shape. Wasn't much of a times savings getting it ready. But it made me stop touching the drying wood for a few minutes. 

 

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The bow and stern transoms turned out nice. A bit of fill on the stern were I added the spacer on the stern transom knee. 

 

The sheer planks ended up what looks like exactly where they should be. Pure dumb luck. Even more amazing they are the same. I never even looked at the spacing or how it grew. The planks have some gaps and spaces viewed from the bottom. The bevel edge looks great on the inside. Skills learned during the Dory construction. 

 

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The skeg and bilge keels are easy enough. I used a piece of 220 pictured, to shape the skeg. The bilge keels only needed cleaning up and they looked good. I marked both sides about where they should go, not much for exactly where they should go that I could find in the instructions. I used tweezers for the first time to hold them and place them with a bead of glue. The bead of glue is spread and shaped with a #11 blade knife. I can place a good bead right in the center and clear up edges before its even placed. Then can get the squished out glue cleared up quick wit the back end of a #11 blade. The glue balls up and peals off. Hard to to explained there is a magic point its like rubber, not liquid, not cured. 

 

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Mount the dagger board vertical. Ok. Lets see if we can extend that vertical so we can see it. I'd say, thats close enough. 

 

The marks in the hull are from the framing tool. I wet them with a dab from the tip of my finger the popped right back out to level. Cleaned up the char transfer at some point later one. 

 

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The bottom frame instructions and tick strips are horrendous. 

 

The top long tick strip, with bow and arrow starts at the forward part of the dagger case. 

 

The shape of the bottom frames makes it clear they are to far forward or to far aft when placed wrong. This took a bit of marking and testing to see where they went. Looking ahead at some pictures helped show when I had it completely wrong. A tad more detail or tying together some notes would certainly help someone new, or someone experienced. 

 

I looked at the inwales for many minutes. I knew of the issue I had with the Dory with getting them placed, shaped, and cut to size. I didn't see this trick possible with the Dory at the time. Now they can be shaped, dry and be ready to cut and trim into place without changing size! Wood expands when wet, shrinks when drying. When I cut to fit a part on the Dory when it was wet, when I went to glue it in it was 1/16 to short. I don't want that to happen again. 

 

That was a good place to stop for the night. 

 

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The sheer plank and inwales look like they are almost perfect. Not sure what will go off the rails later. 

 

Page 15 says check now, widest point should be 3 3/4 wide. Mine is 3 5/8. I think he's saying it should not be wider than 3 3/4. 3 5/8 is the widest build mold, not sure how you could get 3 3/4 out if it anyways. The thwarts should fit at 3 5/8 with some trimming. Its all to late now. Not sure what could be adjusted at this point anyways.

 

Now I'm stopped for the night. 

 

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Edited by MajorChaos
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@MajorChaos the inwales go on the inside of the sheer strakes. I just did this step, and the gluing was a challenge for me as it has been for all the long pieces.

 

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------

In progress: Norwegian Sailing Pram by Model Shipways

Completed: Lowell Grand Banks Dory by Model Shipways

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1 hour ago, DonBMichigan said:

@MajorChaos the inwales go on the inside of the sheer strakes. I just did this step, and the gluing was a challenge for me as it has been for all the long pieces.

 

 


The wood is being trained so it behaves it self. This will make trimming the ends and gluing super easy. I left it to dry overnight, shrink to normal after being wet and bent. The outside is the inside shape. It’s not glued. It should make an almost perfect inwale. I won’t have to fight it when I glue it on the inside. 
 

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Oh, you're bending! Good idea, and so obvious now that I've seen it. I wish I had seen your log before I did mine...  😀

--------------------------------------------------------------------------

In progress: Norwegian Sailing Pram by Model Shipways

Completed: Lowell Grand Banks Dory by Model Shipways

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Working on a model project dog tired from work is not a good idea. The inwales are attached. The bending method also shows a sand/file to match surface, when placed on the inside it fit perfect. Then match the stern and trim to length with the same match, it fit great without much futzing around. 

 

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It’s moving along but I’m starting to struggle on some of this. I made a mess of some of it. Stern and bow quarter knees are close I guess. I’ve tried to carefully place items. Not much help in the instructions on alignment for some of it. “At this point, your model should look like the photograph above.” I prepped the seats to help figure it out. 
 

I’m trying to get the seat and thwart frames straight and level.

 

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43 minutes ago, MajorChaos said:

I’m trying to get the seat and thwart frames straight and level.

A rubber band and a piece of scrap wood will create a reference you can measure from. You can also square it up from one of the transoms to align things lengthwise.

 

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Craig.

 

I do know, that I don't know, a whole lot more, than I do know.

 

Current Build: 1:16 Bounty Launch Scratch build.   1:16 Kitty -18 Foot Racing Sloop   1:50 Le Renard   HM Cutter Lapwing 1816  Lapwing Drawings

Completed....: 1:16 16' Cutter Scratch build.

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