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Posted
12 hours ago, Ronald-V said:

Thanks Loracs! Yeah you need to be careful with those, but with vertical drill stand it's a lot easier to be honest :) 

 

 

 

Well thank you! I really enjoy your work with the USS Constitution, really nice build! :) 

 

And ofcourse everyone else that liked the post, thank you very much! 

Hi, Ronald! Your work is an example for me of how important it is to be meticulous in the details. I have little experience, and I'm learning a lot as I build my model. Thank you for providing a detailed description of your work. The result is impressive! Good luck to you!

Posted
5 minutes ago, Frecap said:

Hi, Ronald! Your work is an example for me of how important it is to be meticulous in the details. I have little experience, and I'm learning a lot as I build my model. Thank you for providing a detailed description of your work. The result is impressive! Good luck to you!

Thank you Freecap! 🙏

Posted (edited)

Your work is superb, the attention to detail underscores your desire to create a work of art. I couldn't help but notice your use of the Sakura pen to mark tiny holes; I use my set in the same way, couldn't model without them!

Edited by hollowneck

 

Ron

Secretary/Newsletter Editor, Philadelphia Ship Model Society

Former Member/Secretary for the Connecticut Marine Model Society

Former Director, Nautical Research Guild, 2021-2025

@modelshipdood on Instagram

 

Current Build: HMS Diana Update

Completed Builds: HM Gunbrig Cracker #13 (HM Adder Gunbrig)Grace & Peace (Wyoming, 6-masted Schooner), HMS GrecianHMS Sphinx (as HMS CamillaOngakuka Maru, (Higaki Kaisen, It Takes A Village), Le Tigre Privateer, HMS Swan, HMS Godspeed, HMS Ardent, HMS Diana, Russian brig Mercury, Elizabethan Warship Revenge, Xebec Syf'Allah, USF Confederacy, HMS Granado, USS Brig Syren

 

Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, hollowneck said:

Your work is superb, the attention to detail underscores your desire to create work of art. I couldn't help but notice your use of the Sakura pen to mark tiny holes; I use my set in the same way, couldn't model without them!

Thanks for your very kind words Ron! Yes the Sakura pens are really nice. I always used them for artwork on paper, drawing mandala's etc, but they are also great for modeling :) 

Edited by Ronald-V
Posted

I have been away for a while, Ron, and am pleased to see your progress. Very nicely done indeed!

Mark

 

On the table:   Lynx, Baltimore Clipper Schooner - MANTUA - 1:62

 

Awaiting shipyard clearance: HMS Endurance - OcCre - 1:70

 

Wishlist: 1939 Chris Craft Runabout - Garrett Wade - 1:8

 

FinishedEndeavour 1934 - J Class Racing Yacht - 1:80

 

 

Dogs do speak, but only to those who know how to listen

Posted
On 7/27/2025 at 7:56 AM, Ronald-V said:

just a quick adjustment

Not accepting a .5-1mm variance, taking the time to do it over, is the sign of an exceptional modeler. Well done!

Regards,

Glenn

 

Current Build: Medway Long Boat
Completed Builds: HMS Winchelsea HM Flirt (paused) HM Cutter CheerfulLady NelsonAmati HMS Vanguard,  
HMS Pegasus, Fair American, HM Granado, HM Pickle, AVS, Pride of Baltimore, Bluenose, Royal Barge

Posted
8 hours ago, SaltyScot said:

I have been away for a while, Ron, and am pleased to see your progress. Very nicely done indeed!

 

7 hours ago, glbarlow said:

Not accepting a .5-1mm variance, taking the time to do it over, is the sign of an exceptional modeler. Well done!

Thank you both! 🙏

Posted (edited)

This post is purely for inspiration and maybe someone else can find it useful too.

 

Here are a few reference photos for the bow color scheme. These are contemporary models and the Marshall painting of the Sphinx, and there doesn't really seem to be a set color scheme, but rather, everyone has their own interpretation. Only the Marshall paintings seem to have some consistency, but that doesn't say anything at all :D 

I do like the color scheme of the Marshal painting and we have seem a fine example of this with Blue Ensign his Sphinx...so i'm leaning towards that :) 

 

 

(pictures are from the Royal Greenwhich Museum)

 

Diana 1794

 

l5787_004.jpg.b456372ea258ced1f78d3ef19ee2d1d5.jpg

 

Marshal painting Sphinx 1775

 

boeg.jpg.94fa12b97bf484eb9e8c9a63f26dc19e.jpg

 

Amazon class 1773 (not sure which ship)

 

f2897_3.jpg.c73e145d30023fb40c4b68d5dd76dd4b.jpg

 

Second rate 1775 (not sure which ship)

 

f9284_005.thumb.jpg.0899182e5b9f10a8c638355fe2cbd42c.jpg

 

Minerva 1780 fifth rate

 

f9204_004.thumb.jpg.222a96cb9fa71a64220395c7d41d1f35.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Ronald-V
Posted (edited)

I personally find Boxwood (or similar light color) so difficult to work with.  Either you leave as is, which often stand out with the rest, or you stain it.  I had bad experience with staining in the past. I find it very difficult to match with the remaining ship or just look natural.  Most time I just settle with no staining at all, just varnish.  I never tried adding a little bit of stain to the varnish though, just to darken it a tiny bit.

Edited by Loracs

Completed Build (Model Ship): Chinese Pirate Junk, Amati  HMS Revenge, Amati  Bireme, Greek Warship, Amati

Current Build (Model Tank)M48A2 Patton Tank, Revell/Monogram

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Loracs said:

I personally find Boxwood (or similar light color) so difficult to work with.  Either you leave as is, which often stand out with the rest, or you stain it.  I had bad experience with staining in the past. I find it very difficult to match with the remaining ship or just look natural.  Most time I just settle with no staining at all, just varnish.  I never tried adding a little bit of stain to the varnish though, just to darken it a tiny bit.

Are you referring at the figurehead? Because that is a resin/plastic piece with this kit, so that needs color anyway. I was more looking what colors the prow and rails need, because there are quite some variations :) 

Edited by Ronald-V
Posted

I've also been contemplating the color scheme for my Resolution, 1777 and finding little help from paintings or more modern art.  The TFFM Swan class book series says that sheer rail and waist rail moldings , for example, were "bright", ie. unpainted.  And, as far as I can tell this applies to head rails and stern galleries/ taffrail as well (with some painted decoration.)  But this may mean for Admiralty models and not the actual ships.  Someone recently asked on this forum:  "Do you want a model of a model or a model of the actual ship?"  Were the Admiralty models built to represent the actual ship or were they an idealized representation made to impress the Board?  Would they leave so many unprotected wood details on the outer hull exposed to the elements?   I'm thinking of painting the headrails and stern features mostly yellow ochre but have no reference to substantiate this choice.   That's still a long time off and I could change my plan, agonizing over it all until the brush goes into the paint.

As to mixing boxwood and other species,  I've also unsuccessfully tried to stain boxwood and instead used wood dye. (mixed with isopropyl alcohol rather than denatured which yields a different color.)   In the photo, the moldings and volute are boxwood, the planks and chesstree are Swiss pear.  Although  every thing was installed, I dyed the moldings first, then matched the color when dyeing the planks.

Rsolution.jpg

Resolution.jpg

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