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Posted

Nice progress Christian.

 

On the subject of the Qtr deck Capstan, it actually sat on a platform called the step. This rose around 1.5mm (at scale) above the Qtr deck. The step was angled  slightly to bring the capstan vertical to the spindle running between the two capstans.

The expediency of  bevelling the base of the capstan achieves the same effect, but does it look ok from a side on view?

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

Posted

Thanks for the info and showing interest. B.E.

 

Well, it is hardly noticeable. The moreover I've painted the edge of the captstans base in flat black color ( kind of a camouflage ).

 

From stern  to bow view the capstan is isolated between stairs and gratings and from port to starboard and the other way around...well ratlines and shrouds and probably other rigging will cover this issue completely.

 

I've painted the capstain axe also in black as I was anxious to avoid the red flashy color overall this item.

 

A calculated risk ?

 

Kind regards

 

Christian

 

"The original always beats the copy"

(supportive statement)

Posted

Hello master shipwright.  Your model looks amazing.  I can see a big difference already from stock, unless I am mistaken.  The side windows to the aft compartment look like real windows on your model, whereas the stock windows simply look like a glued on plate. You have fabricated a molding that gives it a "real" appearance.   As an introduction, I long ago I built the Mamoli Constitution, the Corel Wasa, and the HMS Swift (not the current Mamoli kit.  It was purchased in 1989 and I don't recall the manufacturer).  I came out of retirement, and plan to build my fleet (I have 15 planned so far....what can I say, I obsess....don't we all?).  I just purchased the Pegasus kit and learned that the cannons, long boat and rigging blocks should be replaced for authentic scale considerations.  I am not, perhaps, as picky as some and may not replace the blocks (unless they really look bad), but the cannon choice seems to be an egregious error.  The most I can figure is 1/64 cannon for a Swan class ship should be either .3 or .32, both of which I can get.  But is there a recommended item? And what about the cannon carriages?  Do they come prefabricated? If so, they will have to be replaced as well.  If I must build them, I can probably work with the parts that come with the model and reduce their size a bit.  The long boat I hear is a metal shell. I would like to make a planked boat but am not up to the challenge of a scratch build.  I haven't been able to find a scale replacement.  I would prefer making the longboat from a kit if possible-to scale, of course.

 

So, the simple question is what cannons should I get to replace the stock ones?  That I can easily do.  The long boat might be possible if I can find a scale kit.  The item that bothers me the most, the non-functional look of the aft compartment windows, is probably beyond me.  But we shall see.

 

Thanks for listening and I apologize if this is not the correct place to pose such questions.  They are specific to this kit, however, so I figured it would be the best place.  

Rodd

Posted

Thanks for your high praise, Rod.

This is certainly the correct place to ask your question, you are very welcome

Although imho the real shipwrigts are more likely to be found in the scratch-build section, I'm afraid.

Also built Corel Vasa, so we have this in common.

The gun carriages are not prefabricated,  they are an assemblyprocess of different parts ( see pic below, you can still distinguish the different parts ). I understand that this problem of prefabricated carriages might occur with (early ? ) versions of the HMS Fly Amati kit. Unfortunately, this is also the case with my next project ( Sciabecco Amati 1/60 )

You are quite right to question the size ( and perhaps also the quality )of the guns. I haven't figured out yet how to tackle this issue.

The concern of the guns ( wether or not with carriages) and longboat....., well if there's no problem of availability, I can only tell you : go for it !  ( e.g. Vanguard Models,... ).

Certainly the metal longboat is indeed asking for alternatives, or at least different approaches.

 

However, I used the photoetched windowframes  supplied by the kit. Only the grey paper I fixed behind the plastic provided the effect I was seeking for.

Hope this helps.

I not, feel free to ask further questions

 

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Kind regards

 

Christian

 

"The original always beats the copy"

(supportive statement)

Posted

Another item you may want to replace is the tiller. It's quite visible and fragile. There's eyebolts to be attached, which is a risky business.

I'not that enthousiastic about the kit's version : it's rather flat. Besides, research demonstrated this item was way bigger.

This attempt was made of a 4mm. ramin dowel .

However, and accordingly to internet research,  I flattened the "knot" at the end a bit.

If availability is no concern, you may want to use ramin dowels instead of walnut.

I intend to use ramin dowels also for the masts as it requires no yellow painting. Just my personal taste.

 

How to connect this part with the rudder ?  I'll figure something out....

 

Oh yes,...the swivel guns provided in the kit..... But that's for later

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Kind regards

 

Christian

 

"The original always beats the copy"

(supportive statement)

Posted

The rudder : almost there.....

But also I must admit an avoidable error.

 

As I had the "coppering process"  still in mind, I thought  it would make sense to fix the irons in the rudder area later on.

 

But  at present I could have simplified things if I took hold of this previously to the white painting under the waterline.

While using masking tape overdye the irons in black grey this would have prevented some trouble, especially when cyanoglue is involved.

 

It took me a while to obtain a result by  whereby I can settle although the rudder is still dry  fit

Also a few pics from previous builds about the matter.

 

 

 

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Kind regards

 

Christian

 

"The original always beats the copy"

(supportive statement)

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Chainplates and channels ( post 1/2 )

 

It's been a while, but I must admit I struggled a bit regarding this stage and came,to the conclusion to copy paste the approach of my previous build ( HMS Diana ). Thus I replaced the deadeye chainplate with blackened ironthread and part n° 174 with Gütterman thread. Regarding this latter part, I was not very fond of the gap.

The thread : had to make sure the knots were tightened enough to compensate the tension exercised by the shrouds .

Secondly, the knots are hardly visible : under the channel and behind the loop of my deadeye chainplate alternative.

Another issue I encountered : while proceeding, the paint of the chainplates was peeling off regardless my efforts to use a proper primer coat. Nothing we cannot fix, so no harm done.

The edges on the channels were covered by a 1 x 2 mm walnut strip, later on I fixed a small strip of black paper just for aesthetical reasons.

The last pic shows the port side that still needs to be done. You may notice I went for a different chimney upon the forecastle.

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Kind regards

 

Christian

 

"The original always beats the copy"

(supportive statement)

  • 1 month later...
Posted

At last : chainplates & channels done on both sides.

At present and not provided by the kit an addition to the gallion. I admit it's a simplified version but I'm working with 1.5 mm plywood. Thus I can't take any chances.

Although, I have no clue regarding the purpose of this item.

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Kind regards

 

Christian

 

"The original always beats the copy"

(supportive statement)

Posted

Et voilà.

next update : next of the deck stuff especially swivel guns. 

This might take a while, I'm not very enthousiatic about what the kit provides regarding the matter.

 

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Kind regards

 

Christian

 

"The original always beats the copy"

(supportive statement)

Posted

Hi Folks,

 

Regarding the swivel guns, I think we may have a breakthrough.

1) The guns : purchased them in the aftermarket, I believe the brand is Mantua

2) The handle : I made it eassy on myself. Open an eyelet ( gently ) put the loop around the cascable and gently close and fix the loop. Bend 90°.

On the tail I glued a sort of a "mini-donut". The latter is available in handcraft-hobby stores.

3) The fitting : as I'm not going to install the hammocks, I used the PE parts for this purpose.

4) Wooden support : made out of 4x4mm birch. Not the ideal material but imho better than walnut. The availability of e.g. boxwood in the neighourhood is a bit questionable. Accordingly to instructions drill a 1mm hole in a 3x3mm walnut piece....as this particular piece has a slot in that area....well, good luck with that.

Some extra sanding and painting will do the job.

 

After some research, I noticed other , probably better solutions but often they involved soldering, etc...I was not into that.

Not the ideal, but I can live with it.

 

Any thoughts on this are welcome.

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Kind regards

 

Christian

 

"The original always beats the copy"

(supportive statement)

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Upper rail, Quarter deck ( starboard side )

 

As a deviated a bit from building instructions as well as the supplied parts, quite happy with the result after all.

A previous build, San Felipe ( few decades ago ) was a source of inspiration for the extra decoration strip.

Next post will be realted to the port side and I'll get more into details ( kind a step by step ) 

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Kind regards

 

Christian

 

"The original always beats the copy"

(supportive statement)

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