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Posted

I recently drilled a lot of tiny holes into resin and cast metal during my MFH car and bike builds. I used different set ups and drill bits and gained some experience with these. 

The Tamiya pin vise accepts drills down to 0,3 mm without problems and centers them perfectly. If you have to change drill bits very often, a chuck pin vise can be helpful, but the minimum diameter for that is about 0,6 or 0,7 mm, as the chucks aren´t that precise (DSPIAE vise).

HSS drill bits are preferable, they are made for steel drilling normally and are ok for plastic, resin and wood as well. With small diameter drill bits, lift the drill often during drilling, other ways the residues block between drill bit and hole and the bit tends to heat up and break more easily.

The PCB drill bits are easy to change, because of the standardized shaft, but they are hard and brittle and break easily, The cutting angle is not suitable for the typical modeling materials and tools, as they tend to "eat" into the material too fast.

I use both, hand vises and a Proxxon power tool, which works great and even better since I spent some bucks and added a foot pedal, which is highly recommended. I also own a Proxxon drill stand, which I use frequently for drilling and polishing.

One word of warning, I recently bought a case containing lots of HSS drill bits 0,3mm - 2,5mm from a Chinese online vendor starting with Al... as backup. These are total crap. The smaller diameters don´t even have a tip :blink:.

Cheers Rob

Current builds:   
                             Shelby Cobra Coupe by DocRob - Model Factory Hiro - 1/12 
                             Duchess of Kingston - paused 
                             

Finished builds: F4U-1A Corsair - Tamiya 1/32

                             USS Arizona 1/350 Eduard
                             Caudron C.561 French Racing Plane 1/48
                             Nachtigall on Speed Arado 234 B-2N by DocRob - 1/32 - Fly

                             Renault RE20 Turbo - Tamiya - 1/12
                             P-38J Wicked Woman - Tamiya - 1/48
                             AEG G.IV Creature of the Night - WNW - 1/32
                             "Big Tank" Crocker OHV motorcycle by DocRob - Model Factory Hiro - 1/9
                             MaschinenKrieger Friedrich by DocRob - Wave - 1/20 - PLASTIC - Another one bites the dust
                             McLaren Mp4/6 - Ayrton Senna - Fujimi - 1/20
 

Posted (edited)

Depending on the task, I'll use either a hand vise (usually the Starrett ones I mentioned earlier) or a power tool.  A few years ago, at the recommendation of a forum member here, I upgraded from my old Dremel to an NSK Evolution micromotor.  It was pricey, but well worth it in the end.  It's similar to the type of machine a dentist uses.  The handpiece is much smaller and lighter than a Dremel, so you have a lot more control and less fatigue if working for a longer period of time.  I have the foot pedal to give further control.  There's also a quick change lever on the handpiece to easily switch bits out.  Now I rarely use the Dremel.

 

I find myself using the micromotor more and more to drill holes, sand, grind, etc.  On my current Hs 129 build, I had to do a lot of cutting, drilling sanding, grinding, etc. of the kit parts and the resin aftermarket.  It probably took less than 5% of the time to do all I had to do with the micromotor compared to if I tried doing it using hand vices and other hand tools.  

 

I haven't tried it for carving yet (ultimately, I'd like to carve figureheads and other decorative pieces for my wooden ship models), but similar tools are used by wood carvers.  One member here was I think using a similar machine to do amazing lifelike carvings of birds in wood.

 

Again, as with most Japanese tools, it was certainly not an inexpensive tool, but it's kinda like the Byrnes machines - very well made that should last a lifetime and that make modeling a lot easier.  There are some less expensive options out there for sure, so you just have to do a cost-benefit calculation to figure out what makes the most sense.  As much as I like my Dremel, the micromotor is a game changer.

Edited by Landlubber Mike

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    Hs129B-2 1/48  SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32   IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

Posted
1 hour ago, wefalck said:

Got a similar one for Christmas from my beloved and well-meaning, but not so well-informed in these matters wife a few years ago. If yours really goes down to the indicated rpms, it is much more useful than mine, which has rpms in the thousands. It was really meant for engraving glass, rather than drilling. For this reason it is also designed to only take bits with 2.35 mm shaft. The smallest drill diametre with this shaft seems to be 0.5 mm.

0.6 actually... and the shaft IS a problem, only found one other set of drillbits that use this measurement. The rpm I guess is somewhere around what's advertised, so it's more useful than most of the other competition, but it's way overprized.

Mr. Pucko

 

Building:

Royal Caroline - Panart

Nuestra Senora del Pilar - Occre

Bounty - Occre

Titanic - Amati

Endeavour - AL

Santissima Trinidad cross section - Occre

Posted (edited)

0.6 mm in your set, but PROXXON and watchmaking supply houses sell them down to 0.5 mm in 0.1 mm increments. It's the same shaft diametre as the common burrs.

Edited by wefalck

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

M-et-M-72.jpg  Banner-AKHS-72.jpg  Banner-AAMM-72.jpg  ImagoOrbis-72.jpg
Posted
On 9/16/2024 at 7:03 PM, Cleat said:

I have a Vanda-Lay drill press for my Dremel.

I do as well.  It works great for my older corded Dremel but my newer non-corded has a smaller circumference and does dot fit.  I asked Larry if he makes an adapter.  He does not.  😒

Chuck Seiler
San Diego Ship Modelers Guild
Nautical Research Guild

 
Current Build:: Colonial Schooner SULTANA (scratch from Model Expo Plans), Hanseatic Cog Wutender Hund, Pinas Cross Section
Completed:  Missouri Riverboat FAR WEST (1876) Scratch, 1776 Gunboat PHILADELPHIA (Scratch), John Smith Shallop

Posted

Totally missed that Proxxon had 2.35mm shanks. Thanks wefalck!!!

Mr. Pucko

 

Building:

Royal Caroline - Panart

Nuestra Senora del Pilar - Occre

Bounty - Occre

Titanic - Amati

Endeavour - AL

Santissima Trinidad cross section - Occre

Posted
7 minutes ago, Chuck Seiler said:

I do as well.  It works great for my older corded Dremel but my newer non-corded has a smaller circumference and does dot fit.  I asked Larry if he makes an adapter.  He does not.  😒

Should be easy for any one with a lathe and who is located on your side of the pond to turn up a sleeve ...

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

M-et-M-72.jpg  Banner-AKHS-72.jpg  Banner-AAMM-72.jpg  ImagoOrbis-72.jpg
Posted

Colleagues, these are indispensable on my bench. I use these nearly every day.

The bits are tool steel and have remained sharp after several years of use. Obviously, for wood only.

 

ThumbDrills.thumb.jpg.3685067538f907fa6a2a6c5ec954d872.jpg

 

https://micromark.com/collections/hand-drills-pin-vises/products/finger-drills-4pc-74-80

 

 

Ron

Director, Nautical Research Guild

Secretary/Newsletter Editor, Philadelphia Ship Model Society

Former Member/Secretary for the Connecticut Marine Model Society

 

Current Build: Grace & Peace (Wyoming, 6-masted Schooner)

Completed Builds: HMS GrecianHMS Sphinx (as HMS CamillaOngakuka Maru, (Higaki Kaisen, It Takes A Village), Le Tigre Privateer, HMS Swan, HMS GodspeedHMS Ardent, HMS Diana, Russian brig Mercury, Elizabethan Warship Revenge, Xebec Syf'Allah, USF Confederacy, HMS Granado, USS Brig Syren

 

Posted (edited)

I think it's kind of funny how this thread has gone from the OP asking about his pin vise, to recommendations of drill presses.

 

Personally, like Chuck, I am very happy using a pin vise. My preferred variety is the swivel headed type. Quality varies with these things. My go to is one sold by ModelCraft Tools. I have a few of them, with each set up with a common drill bit size, so I can swap pin vises without having to change the drill bits all the time. In any case, I have no trouble using drill bits as small as #80.

 

image.jpeg.efc4335731aba2e9f6bc68afc74fe405.jpeg

I have drill presses, and there is a place for the power tools, but nothing replaces the ease of use of a basic pin vise.

Edited by catopower
Posted (edited)
On 9/21/2024 at 11:20 PM, catopower said:

think it's kind of funny how this thread has gone from the OP asking about his pin vise, to recommendations of drill presses.

Tool conversations are always circlic.  Who doesn't like talking about tools...no matter how braud  the conversation goes.  The original question was, *Are there better tools for drilling tiny holes?*  If you want all your holes parallel...a drill press is the best solution.  If you're requirement is tiny holes in tight, places...finger drills or pin vices work well.😀

Rob

Edited by rwiederrich

Current build:

Build log: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/25382-glory-of-the-seas-medium-clipper-1869-by-rwiederrich-196

 

 

Finished build:

Build log: of 1/128th Great Republic: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13740-great-republic-by-rwiederrich-four-masted-extreme-clipper-1853/#

 

Current build(On hold):

Build log: 1/96  Donald McKay:http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/4522-donald-mckay-medium-clipper-by-rwiederrich-1855/

 

Completed build:  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/gallery/album/475-196-cutty-sark-plastic/

The LORD said, "See, I have set (them) aside...with skills of all kinds, to make artistic designs for work in gold, silver, and bronze, to cut and set stones, to work in wood, and to engage in all kinds of crafts."

  • Solution
Posted (edited)

I believe I can summarize the responses to my question, "Are there better tools for drilling tiny holes", as "Yes, there are many better tools, and everyone has their own favorite. Most seem to prefer HSS (high speed steel) bits with manual drills/pin vices, though a few use powered tools, at least in some cases. For example, per @wefalck, 'if you can put the part under a (quality) drill-press and hold it safely, this may be a good option for even the smallest drills. Otherwise, use a pin-vise or similar'".

Edited by Dan Poirier
Add suggestion from wefalck
Posted

I would modify this summary a bit: if you can put the part under a (quality) drill-press and hold it safely, this may be a good option for even the smallest drills. Otherwise, use a pin-vise or similar.

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

M-et-M-72.jpg  Banner-AKHS-72.jpg  Banner-AAMM-72.jpg  ImagoOrbis-72.jpg

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