Clamps and other methods for holding down glued planks (first planking and second planking)

[palmerit]

After building my Sherbourne, I've realized that I do not like using CA glue. Maybe someday I'll gain the ability to put just enough glue, the confidence of putting it in the right place, and the speed to do it quickly. But that day is not today. I like using PVA glue. I can easily move and remove the plank.

 

The question is how best to clamp it down. I know some people say you don't need pressure, but I've read that PVA glue binds better with some pressure.

 

I've created some out of blinder clips (https://shipmodeler.wordpress.com/2015/07/01/simple-planking-clamp-from-binder-clips/). I've learned (from logs and playing around) ways to use rubber bands (and using clips to exert more pressure from the band. I have some plastic zip ties that I saw some people use, but haven't tried them yet. 

 

The blinder clips work well on a relatively flat area, but don't work as well on a curve or when there are other planks in the way. And of course they don't work if you're doing a double planked hull. I've seen people just use pins, but that looks like it would put a divot on the side of the wood if you apply any pressure, especially if the wood is softer.

 

Can anyone point me to any good solutions I could buy or I could make?

[Gregory]

I mainly use CA, so I don't think I have any innovative clamping ideas beyond what can be found here.  The main challenge is clamping to a curved surface and not marking the wood. 

Once you solve your clamping challenge you might consider the Titebond Speedset glue.  It only needs about 15 minutes clamping time.  I have had good results with it. 

 

[palmerit]

31 minutes ago, Gregory said:

Titebond Speedset glue.  It only needs about 15 minutes clamping time

Cool. Thanks. I'll need to try that glue out. 

 

Someone also suggested Super PHATIC ALIPHATIC Glue Fast Drying. I think that's more like a superglue but not as fiddly. I bought some to try to use with PE parts; it was suggested in the context of asking for an alternative to CA when using photo etch parts). Don't know how well it works with wood (it says it does, don't know how it'd compare to Titebond).

 

I've also seen folks make their own pins that have a piece of wood through them (that can act as a clamp on the plank above or below) and that these work especially well when doing a second planking. I'd love a "how to" for making those (e.g., what kind of pins, what kind of wood). I'm not especially handy.

[Daniel Kimmer]

For the first planking I use plastic spring clamps or modified binder clips. The second layer I use heat bending the plank to "close to proper position" and then masking tape or rubber bands to help hold it in place.  If need be, I pin the plank with brass pin nails.

 

[palmerit]

Right. I've learned a bit to do the shaping of the planks. I suppose if I use a quicker setting glue (like the Tightbond Speedset) I can get by without lots of clamping. I've just seen a lot of various posts about the importance of applying pressure - some way the chemistry of the glue requires pressure, some say it's not needed. I suppose building a model - as opposed to a real ship (or a piece of furniture) - you don't need to worry so much about the pressure dimension of wood chemistry. It just need to stick and stay, hopefully for the long term.,

[palmerit]

I've made a ton of those binder clips and they are useful. I'll often put a piece of scrap wood down between the "clamp" piece of the jury-rigged clip and the piece of plank or other wood (especially if it's a softer wood that will be dented). I've just found that the binder clips don't work well if there a lot to curve and they don't work if there isn't room (e.g., if you're getting to the last few planks). 

[Dziadeczek]

If you pre-bend your plank off the model, frequently checking its shape (until it almost fits the shape of the hull in place it belongs), you'll hardly need ANY clamps!

Soak your planks in luke warm water for a few minutes and with an electric plank bender. or a modified soldering iron (see the pic) try to heat bend the plank, frequently checking its shape. Then place small drops of Titebond glue on the bulkhead edges touching the plank and along the one edge of your plank to glue it to the neighboring plank already installed. I only use ordinary tailor's pins to keep the plank in place, NO pushing force is needed. And I push the pins not through the plank, but rather along its edge to avoid holes in the plank after pins are removed (after the glue dries) - see the pics.

[palmerit]

I also have a ton of the plastic spring clamps (in three different sizes) and little metal clamps.