Libertad 1925 by Valeriy V - Scale 1:100 - Spanish Type F Light Cruiser

[Valeriy V]

Thank you all for your feedback and likes!  

And I have a small continuation of brass soldering.  These are the upper tiers of the bow superstructure.

[wefalck]

Excellent metal work as usual.

 

What do you use as heat-sink to prevent parts already soldered from falling apart?

[Valeriy V]

Everything shown in the photos is soldered without using a radiator. I very rarely use a radiator.
In this process, you need to determine the correct soldering sequence. First, the most massive parts are soldered and only after that the small parts are soldered. In this case, you can do without a radiator.

[Dr PR]

Valeriy,

 

Nice work. I notice that you brush the metal. I usually do this with a motor tool and wire brush to remove excess solder. But does it also give enough "tooth" or roughness for paint to adhere?

 

Or do you etch the brass before painting?

[Valeriy V]

Thanks Phil!

For painting, the degreasing process is of primary importance. Surface roughness is secondary.
I degrease surfaces with caustic soda (NaOH).

[Dr PR]

Thanks.

 

I know some people "pickle" brass with Sodium Bisulfate (SPAREX NO. 2) to clean the surface and provide a bit of roughness. It is an acidic solution. This is usually done before using a blackening solution.

 

Caustic soda (Sodium Hydroxide) is a strong base and has been a component of soaps for a long time. Concentrated sodium hydroxide will cause chemical burns on the skin.