Sternwheeler From the Susquehanna River's Hard Coal Navy by Keith Black - 1:120 Scale

[Canute]

A few drops of India ink in iso alcohol makes a good wash for dirting up your models. It will collect in any panel lines. It's not as concentrated as the Tamiya washes.

[Keith Black]

2 hours ago, tmj said:

How did you weather/whitewash the PH? Maybe you can still do the same for the roof using not so bright colors... and a bit of dry brushing.

2 hours ago, tmj said:

Use the black for undertones and build up layers of grunge on top, kinda like this.

 Tom, thank you suggestions and I did note the file name. At some point I need to mess around with India ink. In this case of the roofing, I'm trying to represent tar paper not wood but I do like the wall.

 

 The roof is painted with very thin black acrylic paint wash repeated till I was happy with the results. I intentionally left areas without the third and fourth washes. When the roof had dried I thumb rubbed the surface pretty good. I think that did more for me mentally than what it did for the roof.  

 

1 hour ago, Canute said:

A few drops of India ink in iso alcohol makes a good wash for dirting up your models. It will collect in any panel lines. It's not as concentrated as the Tamiya washes.

 Thank you, Ken. As I said to Tom above, I do need to get myself to the hobby store and pick up some India ink. I think India ink would have highlighted the individual vertical boards much better than black pastel. I'm still an infant when it comes to weathering techniques. 

 

Edited Friday at 05:48 PM by Keith Black

[tmj]

You could always just paint the roof flat black, like tarpaper, then put the roof on top of 'your' roof for the summer. That should weather it pretty good and natural like! 🙃 LOL

On second thought, that wouldn't work. The bird poop would be out of scale! 😲

Edited Friday at 05:55 PM by tmj

[sheepsail]

Has anyone used the old typewriter carbon paper to simulate tar paper?  I think this is still sold as tracing paper.  It is pretty thin.

 

I think there are also fine glitters what could be used to simulate the quartz gravel.   Not sure how well sugar last over the years.  I have heard of Kosher salt being used in modeling to simulate snow in scale.

 

Graphite is soot, which contains things like carbon nanotubes and bucky balls.  Not stuff you want in the lungs. 

 

Laser printer toner is a thermal microplastic.  That could also be used to texture simulated tar paper, and it is heat set, so would melt like tar.

 

I can not remember if india ink is carbon or iron based.  Home despot carries cement blacking which is pure iron oxide as a really fine powder.  A magnet will stick to the plastic jar.  Useful for making conductive ink. Mix with an oil, with alcohol or lighter fluid as a drying agent.

 

-j

 

[Keith Black]

5 hours ago, sheepsail said:

Has anyone used the old typewriter carbon paper to simulate tar paper?  I think this is still sold as tracing paper.  It is pretty thin.

 

I think there are also fine glitters what could be used to simulate the quartz gravel.   Not sure how well sugar last over the years.  I have heard of Kosher salt being used in modeling to simulate snow in scale.

 

Graphite is soot, which contains things like carbon nanotubes and bucky balls.  Not stuff you want in the lungs. 

 

Laser printer toner is a thermal microplastic.  That could also be used to texture simulated tar paper, and it is heat set, so would melt like tar.

 

I can not remember if india ink is carbon or iron based.  Home despot carries cement blacking which is pure iron oxide as a really fine powder.  A magnet will stick to the plastic jar.  Useful for making conductive ink. Mix with an oil, with alcohol or lighter fluid as a drying agent.

 Thank you, J. Unfortunately at 1:120 a lot of what I do is merely a suggestion and not replication. I learned long ago that leaving a tiny item to the viewer's imagination was far more affective than trying to actually make something. 

[John Ruy]

51 minutes ago, Keith Black said:

 Thank you, J. Unfortunately at 1:120 a lot of what I do is merely a suggestion and not replication. I learned long ago that leaving a tiny item to the viewer's imagination was far more affective than trying to actually make something. 

Agreed, At 1/192 my Redjacket will most certainly have many things left to the viewers imagination. i.e. rigging blocks will probably be carefully tied knots in the thread. I have already learned that a suggestion of paint color is a way to scale down the painting. But then I believe I learned this from you Keith. 😎

 

John

Edited Saturday at 12:35 PM by John Ruy

[Keith Black]

1 hour ago, John Ruy said:

Agreed, At 1/192 my Redjacket will most certainly have many things left to the viewers imagination. i.e. rigging blocks will probably be carefully tied knots in the thread. I have already learned that a suggestion of paint color is a way to scale down the painting. But then I believe I learned this from you Keith.

 Thank you, John. Regarding your Redjacket build, 2 mm deadeyes and single blocks and 3mm double blocks are available. I know they are available from Cornwall Model Boats but I would think they are also available here in the States. The below shows they would work and from experience they can be rigged but you either need great eyesight or a good magnifier. 

 

 2mm at 1:192 = 15.12 inches. 

 

 3mm at 1:192 = 22.67 inches. 

 

 

[John Ruy]

8 minutes ago, Keith Black said:

 Thank you, John. Regarding your Redjacket build, 2 mm deadeyes and single blocks and 3mm double blocks are available. I know they are available from Cornwall Model Boats but I would think they are also available here in the States. The below shows they would work and from experience they can be rigged but you either need great eyesight or a good magnifier. 

 

 2mm at 1:192 = 15.12 inches. 

 

 3mm at 1:192 = 22.67 inches. 

 

 

Thanks Keith… I do have the deadeyes covered. Shrouds and Standing rigging are not the issue it’s the running rigging, should I choose to represent it, I was referring to.  Yes, I will need both great eyesight and a magnifier as well as steady hands. 😆

[Keith Black]

18 minutes ago, John Ruy said:

the issue it’s the running rigging, should I choose to represent it, I was referring to.  Yes, I will need both great eyesight and a magnifier as well as steady hands.

Ah, got it. Have you managed to acquire all the line you'll need? Cotton, poly? Lacing 2mm deadeyes and tying to shrouds is a challenge everyone should accept at least one in their life. 

[John Ruy]

28 minutes ago, Keith Black said:

Ah, got it. Have you managed to acquire all the line you'll need? Cotton, poly? Lacing 2mm deadeyes and tying to shrouds is a challenge everyone should accept at least one in their life. 

Agreed… here is a look at my first attempt at the mizen mast upper shrouds. I have line from HisModel. 
 

I’m still considering a rework of these shrouds. Darn OCD… LOL 😆 

[FriedClams]

Thanks to all for the discussions in this log - it makes for interesting reading.

 

Your pilothouse looks great, Keith!  The weathering on both the vertical siding and roof feels like just the right amount.  It has that look of honest wear and neglect without being overdone, which can be challenging at such a small scale. You have a good eye and controlled hand - well done!

 

Gary

[Keith Black]

8 minutes ago, FriedClams said:

 

Your pilothouse looks great, Keith!  The weathering on both the vertical siding and roof feels like just the right amount.  It has that look of honest wear and neglect without being overdone, which can be challenging at such a small scale. You have a good eye and controlled hand - well done!

 Thank you, Gary.