Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70

[Sir Charles Edward]

Beautiful work so far, and I have a couple of versions of Peter's "instructions", and his solution is workable, but pretty exact for me, although without trying you never know if you can expand your self imposed limits or not.

 

I often check the Euromodel web site for any updates Peter has added since his work is still not quite finished.

[pirozzi]

One main deck gun constructed. I decided to enhance the construction from the basic kit design and supplies. I tapered the carriage from 10.5mm wide to 10.5 at front and 9.0 at rear. Also tapered front of carriage slanting backward from bottom up. I also added the qoin for elevating the barrel and the cotter pins for the truck wheels. If you are going to add the cotter pins, the front axle needs to be lengthened to 19.25mm and the rear to 18.0mm. I aged the brass barrel and eye bolts with a blackener. The only thing missing at this point is the trunion band to hold the gun barrel on the carriage. I did not have any suitable material to make this, but have some copper strips coming. Will add later.

 

Vince P.

[Keith_W]

Looks good, Vince. How are you going to add the trunnion bands? The brass wire supplied in the kit isn't even wide enough in diameter to fill the notch in the carriage. If you add a trunnion band, it will sit flat against the top. I have been thinking of ways to thicken trunnion - most probably drill out a larger hole and install a larger diameter rod.

[Sir Charles Edward]

Very nice job on the gun carriages.  I am taking notes BTW.......

[pirozzi]

You have to be careful about altering the gun carriages because the position of the gunports depends on the height of the gun barrels. I will preform the trunnion bands over round stock so they appear as though they are sitting over a larger pin.

Vince P.

[pirozzi]

Since the Quarter and Forecastle decks are to be positioned soon, it is necessary to cut out the gunports below them on the main deck. Plan sheet #8 gives locations horizontally, but the height off the deck should be measured from an actual gun assembly. I noticed a note from KeithW. that no mention is made of the different gunport sizes in the plans. This is not correct as they are clearly marked with dimensions on the plans.

 

Vince P.

 

 

[pirozzi]

All of the main deck gun ports are either just marked or cut out. Since I am adding another duplicate layer of first planking inside the bulwarks to strengthen it, I only marked those ports. Once the duplicate layer is added (next up), I will cut out the ports. The others below the quarter and forecastle decks are cut out and the gun supports are in place. On all the ports that are in front of bulkheads, I cut them out too, but will close them off with a cover.

 

Vince P.

[Keith_W]

Great work as usual, Vince. Keep it up!

 

I noticed a note from KeithW. that no mention is made of the different gunport sizes in the plans. This is not correct as they are clearly marked with dimensions on the plans.

Actually, what I said was that no mention of different gunport sizes was made on other build logs, and that the Euromodel I-I only mentions two gunport sizes. Re: the dimensions in the plans - which plan sheet are you referring to?

[pirozzi]

Placing the bitts and fife rail around main mast.

 

The plans do not show belaying pins in the fife rails and they are not included in the kit. The original ship was launched as the HMS Prince in 1670 which was just about the time that belaying pins started to be used. The Royal William was launched in 1719 as a rebuild of the Prince. There is more likelyhood that the RW had belaying pins than not, so I added them. The foremast will have 2-3-2 configuration and both the main and mizzen will have a 1-3-1 configuration. I will not add the taller anchor bitts until the quarter deck is in place because they have to be at the same height and I will use the quarterdeck as the reference.

 

Vince P.

[pirozzi]

Placing the forecastle deck. It sits on top of bulkheads "B, C, D, E, F", but the upper section of bulkhead "B" has to be cut away at the level of the main deck. This leaves a considerable length of the forecastle hanging with no support at the aft end. Ships had support members called "Breast Beams" to support the overhanging ends of upper decks. Here this has to be made from scratch. I used the cut off top of bulkhead B to mark off the convex slope of the deck onto the lumber used to make the beam. I used a piece of plywood that was one of the cutouts from the laser cut bulkheads. I measured the width and height needed from the ship and cut it out with a jig saw. I then took a piece of 4x4mm stock and curved it to match the deck curvature and glued it across the top with a recess equal to the thickness of the false forecastle deck. This will provide a rebate across the top of the beam to support the false decking and apply the correct curvature. It was then finished with a coat of golden oak.

Before placing the deck, the stove was placed and a cutout made to the deck for the stack. The foremast was also inserted to make sure alignment was correct since the mast goes throught 4 decks. Once the deck was aligned and secured, the breast beam was placed and secured as well. The spaces you see at the edges where it meets the bulwarks will be filled with the 2 inner layers of planking to be added to bulwarks.

 

Vince P.

 

[pirozzi]

Hi Brian,

Where you see the dummy supports, that area of the main deck will be completely covered by the Quarterdeck. The area between the fore end of the quarterdeck and the aft end of the forecastle on the main deck will get the full carriage guns.

Vince

[Keith_W]

Yes, I agree with Brian. Remember that when you are inspecting the boat from the side, those gun blocks may be lit from behind, so it could be visible.

 

BTW, I may have missed it - but as you know the hull planks between bulkheads A and 3 are not supported (after B is cut off). I am a little nervous about how I am going to keep those planks straight. Yours are beautifully straight, how did you do it?

 

Also, are you planning to reinforce those planks? I have been calculating the thickness the hull should have at that point. I am going to assume that the hull thickness should be the same as the gunport lining (6mm). I have measured the first planking thickness at 1.4mm, and second planking thickness at 0.8mm. So, to get 6mm hull thickness I would need to laminate 3 lengths of first planking (3 * 1.4 = 4.2mm), and two lengths of second planking (2 * 0.8 = 1.6mm), which will produce a hull thickness of 5.8mm, before glue is taken into account. I notice that PiratePete's I-I suggests that only two layers of first planking are needed (i.e. 2.8mm), whereas Keith Julier suggest one layer of hull planking and another layer of second planking material (2.2mm).

 

It seems as if my assumption about the correct hull thickness at that level is twice of that suggested by PiratePete and nearly three times what Julier did! What are you planning to do?

 

(Sorry for these detailed questions, all of us RW builders have to confront the same problems!)

[pirozzi]

It was the area adjacent to the ships stove I was talking about. It looks like black dummy supports fitted there. I guess if you look under the deck with a mirror it would be seen.

Hi Brian,

I was going to buy extra gun kits since Euro only supplies enough to do the exposed main deck guns but after looking at the plans it seems unnecessary to me. After adding the walkway over the main deck which connects the forecastle to the quarterdeck, the ladders, the foreward most main deck gun which is right up to the forecastle ladders, the capstan and handles, it pretty much makes it impossible to see under the forecastle unless you were inside the ship.  I decided to just use the dummy guns there.

 

Vince P.

[pirozzi]

Yes, I agree with Brian. Remember that when you are inspecting the boat from the side, those gun blocks may be lit from behind, so it could be visible.

 

BTW, I may have missed it - but as you know the hull planks between bulkheads A and 3 are not supported (after B is cut off). I am a little nervous about how I am going to keep those planks straight. Yours are beautifully straight, how did you do it?

 

Also, are you planning to reinforce those planks? I have been calculating the thickness the hull should have at that point. I am going to assume that the hull thickness should be the same as the gunport lining (6mm). I have measured the first planking thickness at 1.4mm, and second planking thickness at 0.8mm. So, to get 6mm hull thickness I would need to laminate 3 lengths of first planking (3 * 1.4 = 4.2mm), and two lengths of second planking (2 * 0.8 = 1.6mm), which will produce a hull thickness of 5.8mm, before glue is taken into account. I notice that PiratePete's I-I suggests that only two layers of first planking are needed (i.e. 2.8mm), whereas Keith Julier suggest one layer of hull planking and another layer of second planking material (2.2mm).

 

It seems as if my assumption about the correct hull thickness at that level is twice of that suggested by PiratePete and nearly three times what Julier did! What are you planning to do?

 

(Sorry for these detailed questions, all of us RW builders have to confront the same problems!)

Hi Keith,

I am planning to add another layer of first planking and the inner finish layer. Since both Julier and Pete suggest not applying the second outer layer of finish planking to the areas covered by the metal ornamental siding, this will give 3 layers in all and will not intrude too far into the inner spaces of the main deck, which will cause issues with the bulkheads and other fixtures. I believe this is the way to go.

 

As far as keeping the bulwark planks straight, mine are pretty straight but not perfect. When placing each one. I applied tension lengthwise and glued each piece on the edge first about 1/2" at a time with CA glue and a hair drier. When the second layer is added they can be clamped with strips of thick hard wood (plywood cutout scaprs) to make them really staight before the glue dries.

 

Vince P.

[pirozzi]

Vince, just curious if you are painting the inner bulwarks red or leaving the timber with a clear varnish ? You are doing a fabulous job my friend.

Hi Brian,

Thanks. I am planning to paint the bulwarks red as was customary for warships of that era.

Vince

[Keith_W]

Hi Brian,

Thanks. I am planning to paint the bulwarks red as was customary for warships of that era.

Vince

Me too. Which red are you planning to use? I am experimenting with Vallejo Flat Red but I am not sure if it is too bright. I understand the red should be the colour of blood?

[pirozzi]

Me too. Which red are you planning to use? I am experimenting with Vallejo Flat Red but I am not sure if it is too bright. I understand the red should be the colour of blood?

Hi Keith,

You are exactly correct about the shade of red. The purpose of painting them red was to offset the bloody mess created by combat. If I can't find a suitable color, I will take the darkest red I can find and maybe mix it with black to get the dark, almost maroon color of blood. And it should be a flat base as you say.

 

Vince

Edited July 17, 2014 by Vince P.

[mtaylor]

Nice looking work, Vince.  Pity the gundeck won't be seen.

 

Common practice was red ochre paint as it was cheap and plentiful. However, the shade of red varied from place to place due to the individual painters mixing  of the paint.  So just about any dark red would work.  Find the one you like best.    

[DenPink]

Hi Vince

 

Brian is correct on the red oxide paint ( it has a hint of brown in it ) .

 

Denis.

[pirozzi]

With regards to the red colour for the inner bulwarks, this is opening a can of worms. The correct red is red oxide which is a dull brick red. Many modellers use fire engine red which is incorrect.

 

 

Hi Vince

 

Brian is correct on the red oxide paint ( it has a hint of brown in it ) .

 

Denis.

Yes, the color is very much like bricks. I have a model railroad shop nearby and they have a brick red color paint that I think will be perfect.

Vince

[pirozzi]

I obtained some 2.0mm wide x 0.3mm copper strip from Ages of Sail. I cut it to 9.0mm length and bent it around a 1.5mm drill bit to make the trunion band for the gun carriages. It came out pretty good, but the photo is a little blurry (crappy camera).

 

Vince P.

[pirozzi]

The forecastle deck is finished, planked, and the foreward supporting blocks in place to hold up the deck and as a backing for the prow deck in the future. The double frame around the stove chimney has been added along with the grating. There is some inclination to place other deck fixtures at this point such as bits and fife rail, but I will not do this just yet. The whole hull will have to be inverted at some point to add the second finish layer of planking and anything protuding up to or past the bulwarks could get in the way or be damaged. I had no choice with the stove, as it had to be placed before the deck was installed.

 

I think next up will be to add the second layer of first planking to the inside of the bulwarks and then extend the first planking up beyond the main deck along the entire hull to correspond with the aft upper decks.

 

Vince P.

[Keith_W]

Very good, Vince. I was planning on starting the second hull planking before I got up to the level of the main deck.

[pirozzi]

Hello Vince, I find your build log and pictures much more professionally done than mine.

 

Its interesting that you have a different way to build the model than my interpretation of things. I guess there is no right or wrong, as long as we get the result we are after. Wonderful work my friend.

Hi Brian,

You are correct about different approaches. I have been building ships for long time, as you have. You develop a style that works for you. Still, I learn something new all the time from others like yourself. That is why I spend so much time on this forum. I have noticed however, that there are some that are convinced that their ways are the only correct ways. I am never closed to learning new ideas and this has really helped me along.

 

Thanks,

Vince

[DenPink]

Hi Vince

 

Very well said my friend.

 

Denis.

[pirozzi]

The first layer of planking all the way up to the upper deck bulwarks is completed. I have added some length to the upper deck bulwarks planking just to make sure the metal siding pieces will fit, and then I can cut off the excess later. All of the main deck gun ports are also cut and the doubled layer of planking on the inside of the main and forecastle bulwarks has been added. I am not sure exactly what is the next step until I do some research, but I am thinking of applying the finish layer of walnut planking to the inside of the main and forecastle bulwarks and then installing the quarterdeck.

 

Vince P.

[DenPink]

Hi Vince

 

Wow what can I say but very very nice work my friend.

 

Denis.

[pirozzi]

I have placed the finished layer of walnut planking on the inside of the main and forecastle deck bulwarks. Since the gun ports are planked over again, it is necessary to cut them out again. When cutting them out you have to be super careful to not damage the hard walnut planks. Applying just a little inward pressure with the knife will splinter the walnut. I had to do most of the cutting either from the inside out or use cutting stokes from inside to outside. I think the next step will be placing the quarterdeck.

 

Vince P.

[maggsl_01]

Hi Vince

 

I am so much impressed by the job you do. I like the accuracy and the patience you spend on the model.

Thats what I like so much in this kind of modelling...

 

Go on and let us be witness of your build

 

Cheerio

 

Max

 

[pirozzi]

I have painted the inside of the main and forecastle bulwarks a red color. Since I could not find a color that was satisfactory, I mixed some bright red, brown, and black paint until I got the desired results. I am satisfied that this color is pretty close to the darkened and brown tinted color of the actual paint used for ships of the period. Once the framing is added to the ports, the upper railings, and the deck waterways, it will look all neat and pretty.

 

Vince P.