USS Constitution by Mundie - Model Shipways

[Jimz66]

I am going to follow this one with interest looking great Mundie. Keep up the great work. 

[dgbot]

Looking good nicely done.

David B

[Mundie]

Started planking the deck. I'm not sure if it's 100% correct; and I again deviated from the practicum- but looks like many others I've examined. Any advice is welcome.

[msberkman]

it seems very nice... good luck; I'll follow your log...

[Mundie]

Ok, I went ahead and planked the deck. I just did it the easiest way. I did not taper the stern planks and it seems like it will work. Being an inexperienced modeler I just want to get some experience and maybe be more "historically correct" on my next build.

[Jimz66]

Looking Good Mundie. Looking really good. 

             

[Mundie]

Well, I finished planking the deck. I had a problem, the bass wood supplied by the manufacturer was slightly smaller then the extra strips I bought from Model Expo- I decided not to strive for "perfection" on my first build or it may be 2035 before completing the ship! Ha- it turned out ok, and I'm happy with the way it looks even though I didn't taper the stern end of the planks.

[Mundie]

Does anyone have advice/experience on paints for this ship. I'm aware there is a kit available designed specifically for this model.

Edited January 22, 2015 by Mundie

[patrickmil]

Mundie, the period you are modeling the ship in will dictate the color scheme. A good flat black and a bright white will do for the most part on the exterior (for today's ship) and something close to Tamiya's WW2 Russian Green would be a close approximation on the inside bulwarks. That's my two cents and I'm sure others will have their own ideas and preferences.

[scott larkins]

Man that's a plot of grill work there.  Looks nice.

[Mundie]

So, I stained the deck (Miniwax-Golden Pecan) and stained the hatches (Miniwax-Early American) and painted the bulwarks and main rail; and I'm in the process of adding the planks above the mainrail. I deviated from the practicum and drilled the holes for the plank supports (toothpicks) after I glued the mainrail down; I thought it would be easier to align the angles on the holes since the bulwarks are slightly angled- and it would not matter if I aligned the empty spaced to accommodate the supports- I would just drill right into the wood- I started w a very small bit and graduated to the correct size to avoid wood splitting. I used ModelExpo paint, I like the color, and have never used any other type, so my opinion is limited.

[CaptainSteve]

Great work, Mundie. She's really starting to look like Connie now.

   

Edited February 4, 2015 by CaptainSteve

[dgbot]

Looking good amigo keep up the great work.

David B

[Mundie]

Ok, I'm about to start planking the haul. I have trouble sometimes following the practicum, it's a bit wordy at times. I hope to do a decent job, but perfection is not something I'm striving for on this-my first build. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!!

[CaptainSteve]

Mundie, anytime I've found myself up against a new section in a build then I'd read and re-read the instructions, trying to grasp their meaning. This was particularly challenging on my first two when I had to interpret poorly translated Italian-to-English instructions. These THEN had to be "translated" into something which my non-nautical brain could understand.

 

Apart from that, check out the Planking Tutorials (if you haven't already).

Check the fairing thoroughly with a batten (piece of spare planking).

Mark off your planking bands.

Take your time and enjoy !!

[Mundie]

Ok, so I decided to bypass the "authentic" planking and use larger bass wood in order to get the model done before the year 2115! I know to some this would be "high treason" but hey I'm a beginner and it's all good to me for my 1st build.It's going to be a gift for my dad. So I'm about to prime the wood a copper the hull. It took over 3 hrs to cut and pounce the nail marks, I took Hunt's advice and watched a movie while I did it. Any advice on coppering would be appreciated.

[usedtosail]

Looks good J. I wouldn't sweat the planking - whatever works for you is fine. Your father will love it I am sure.

 

One suggestion I would make is before you copper the hull, prime it where the copper will go, as it helps the plates stick better than to bare wood, and paint above the copper line and overlap it so you have a nice clean paint line above the plates. Maybe you were already planning to do that, but I didn't on my first model and I never did get a good line above the plates. Oh, and fill and sand the hull under the copper, as gaps between the planks will show.

[donrobinson]

Looks good, however, I agree with Tom you need to fill-sand-prime, fill-sand-prime at least twice. You want a very smooth surface for plating

[capnharv2]

I wouldn't worry how long it takes. I've been working on mine since 2007, and I'll be lucky to finish by the end of next year.

 

But it's been fun!!

[Mundie]

Yea, I followed "usedtosail" and used Gesso as a primer- I took great concern with filling in as many gaps and bumps as possible- and sanded and primed the entire hull. I was aware that the copper tape is somewhat thin and any imperfections would show- the two "gaps" at the bottom of the hull are for my custom made stand so I can complete the model then the very last thing will be to plank and copper the two slots.

[Mundie]

Ok, I'm coppering the haul. Cutting the pieces wasn't to bad. You just got to make sure you pounce the nail marks correctly. And the painting was easy. I touched up around cannon ports w a black sharpie.

[Burroak]

Mundie your ship is looking great. Keep up the good work.

 

 

Greg

[Mundie]

Ok, I"m in the middle of coppering the hull and some of the tape does'nt want to stay down, Does anyone know a good "clear drying" glue I can use to secure the loose copper down? I would say it's only about 15% of the plates are "curling."

[JSGerson]

Sorry Mundie, I know nothing about coppering so I can't help you there. And not to be adding to your coppering burdens but I've following xKen on his build of the Conny. He appears to be at the same place as you in your build and he ran into a problem that might affect you as well. He ran out of copper tape. You might want to look at his build if you haven't already, He may also have an idea on how to solve your present sticky problem since this is not his first coppering model..

 

Jonathan

[alde]

Mundie,

 

Your Connie is looking great. I wonder if some rubber cement might work. You know, the kind you brush a thin coat on both surfaces and let dry before you stick them together. Elmers makes it.

[JesseLee]

I completed my coppering some time ago but as I was doing it about a third of mine didn't stick like they should. I used CA glue.  Since then many corners are lifting & folding up. I have been using CA (super glue) on mine. It is difficult to do without getting it on the outside where you don't want it. I put a little bit on the end of a pointed hobby blade & rub it under my lifting corners & press them down.

 

Jesse

[dgbot]

Mundie, A member of one of the Chicago clubs used CA for his coppering. and was satisfied with the results. 

David B

[usedtosail]

I have used thin CA to fix a few spots on mine. I have not had widespread problems with tiles not sticking, though, usually they stick very well. I do prime the wood under the tiles and I don't cut off individual tiles, which are hard to remove from the backing. On a strip of copper tape, I cut through the copper for each tile but not through the backing, then I can remove just the copper pieces from the strip of backing more easily, leaving the copper tiles nice and flat.

[David Lester]

Hello,

I'm enjoying your build log. It appears that you are about at the same place as I am with mine, only you've opted to apply the copper plates before the bow and stern details, whereas I'm just finishing my bow and stern details and am about to launch into the copper plating. How are you handling the bottom of the keel? It looks as though you started the sides at the bottom edge; are you going to plate the bottom and simply wrap the edges of the plates up and slightly overlap the bottom edge of the first course?

David

[Mundie]

Dave, I started the copper according to Hunt's practicum, although I deviate at times. The two "slots" on the bottom of the hull are for a custom stand I made and I will copper that spot as the very last project. The very bottom of the hull; I plan to just use two plates and have them overlap each other. I'm running out of copper and  I will have to buy another roll of tape, and was expecting to, as stated in Hunt's practicum. I've been at a standstill because I'm doing some work around my house, but plan to finish the coppering by April 1st. Thanks for all the help everyone!!