18th Century Longboat by Nirvana - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:48

[Nirvana]

Shaping the frames towards the end I have used a tool that I found at HobbyTown store,

I found them (three in one set, #220 #400 and #800) useful specially with its curved edges.
This way I won't get stuck on any of the frames and dislocating any.

I have also used one of them on the inside of the planks to get a smoother finish.

 

I was also thinking of painting the red part of inner hull before adding the cap rail.

Edited January 3, 2015 by Nirvana

[Nirvana]

With the boxwood replacement from Jeff at HobbyMill I cut the keelson, soaked it for 20 minutes and thereafter pinned it down to the keel.

It's not glued into place, this is only for shaping.

The darker shade  at the starboard aft side is poly-wipe-on.
So easy to remove when not wanted, or painted over if needed.

When removed the wood gets a natural luster.

[Tuffarts]

Yes you gotta love that wipe on poly 

Is a great finish and protector  

 

I read a tip here somewhere that marbles in your bottle of polly, will keep air in bottle to a min

just add more marbles as you go to keep liquid near top of bottle.

Stops the polly from drying out in the bottle, and thickening up before you can use it all.

[Nirvana]

Keelson in place.

After previous shaping I used CA to glue it down.

At the end I didn't have any air gap between the keel and keelson, so all the tedious sanding had its great final result.

[dgbot]

Nicely done.

David B

[Nirvana]

I had the interior wiped with poly. This one comes from General finishes,

While waiting for drying I did a test with the Valejo Red RLM23 see the strip to the left.

I like the color as it has both a bright but also a little dirty tone to it.

This is the color I chosen for the cap rail and the 12mm paint job on the inside.

The first starboard floorboard has been shaped (slightly tapered) then soaked for 20 minutes.

Using clamps with rubber head (no marking) I clamped the board down using pins for spacing.

This way I got the shape of the bent until it is time for gluing.
Realized that doing this before adding the cap rail has it's advantages.

 

[Nirvana]

The last two floor boards were shaped (tapered) at the same time to get the same uniform shape.

[Nirvana]

Oh, I forgot to mention that the boards should be sanded down in thickness at both ends. This will create an even end along with the keelson.

It's not mention in the instructions but visible on the plans.

[Nirvana]

I am satisfied with the installation of the floorboards, using model needles for spacing got them tighter but still with a visible gap.

The distance is the same on both side.

Minimal sanding was needed as the floor boards had been adjusted before.

[Nirvana]

Before I red paint the inners, I wanted to create the Risers, (I scribed them, accordingly to instructions) my scribing wasn't as close to the edge as Chucks' but I am happy with the outcome.

I used the metal ruler and my extreme fine teeth saw to create the line, I was able to go over it three times, then I cleaned it out with a light touch of blade #11.

It's amazing how the picture still reveal wood in the grooves.

Scribing comes first, then after the soaking I placed the riser to shape it along the inside of the frames.

[Nirvana]

Here are the two risers profile drying, the lighter one (on the port) is almost dry.

Edited January 16, 2015 by Nirvana

[divarty]

Per are you going to affix the risers before you put on the cap rail?  It might be hard to ensure you have the distance from the top correct along the entire run if you do it prior to the cap rail install.

[Nirvana]

Divarty,

Thank you for the question.

No, the inners will first be painted then the cap rail will be attached.
This way I have the risers their "shape", while doing the rest.

Thinking that having the risers done prior painting and cap rail would ease the later installation.

If it works then I am happy. Pictures will tell.

[Nirvana]

I am behind schedule, according to my planning the cap rail should had been attached and with hull painted.

Anyway, I am back at the yard, hopefully some work will be done this weekend as there is no important football going on.

Don't know if I went against my better judgement but I decided to attach the cap rail before doing any painting.

Here the port side with "lots of extra meat" has been "white glued" into place.

Very little of the wood of the cap rail at the stem will be trim to fit the starboard side. Hopefully I will be able to create a "seamless area".

[Nirvana]

After many adjustments with the starboard cap rail (and yes I didn't get it right towards the stem, still there is a gap) I have the rail in place.

The connection between port and starboard is almost invisible.

[Nirvana]

Holy moly,

Sanding the cap rail and for them to have an 1/64" ( 0.04mm) lip, that is almost next to nothing visible.

I think the frieze has the same thickness.

[Nirvana]

So, it turned out that the conversion chart provided with my new digital caliber (birthday gift) is wrong.

All the numbers are correct down to 3/64 vs. the metric,

no wonder I thought the 0.04 seemed a bit off.

1/64" is equal to 0.3967 (not 0.03967 according to the chart) or easier measured 0.4mm

I am glad I found out before I didn't have any cap rail lip left.

[Nirvana]

The shaping of the cap rail especially at the stem area is a slow work.

Wonder if anyone has come up with an ingenious way to have them shaped the same?

[Nirvana]

Using the compass to get the 3/32" width I trailed from the outside, creating the sanding line.

Using the caliper I am very close to the correct measurements, some extra sanding might be needed.

 

The connection of starboard and port cap rail at the stem is an area I am happy with.

 

So far I am satisfied with the out come.

Still there is a lot of wood fuzz I need to get rid off.

Basswood is not a friend of mine when it comes to sanding.

 

Painting is getting close.

[Nirvana]

For painting the inboard plank (to second down) I choose (after several test) Valejo  RED RLM 23.

This particular paint is intended for air brushing but turned out very nice with regular brush too.

I like it because it's not bright red, but of it's natural dirt red.

This is the first layer, some 600 grit sanding and another layer and I think I have the color I want.

Second  picture shows the brush I been using, made the mistake using a regular one in the beginning,

Edited February 7, 2015 by Nirvana

[Nirvana]

Cap rail and inner-board painted!

First layer and I like it as the grain of basswood (just the cap rail) is coming through.

Edited February 7, 2015 by Nirvana

[Nirvana]

I think others has mentioned it already, but I would suggest to paint the white side of the cap rail and the molding underneath the frieze, before attaching the frieze.

This way you will have a clean frieze once installing it.

[Nirvana]

Just a picture revealing the white paint job done to the cap rail and rub strakes.

[Nirvana]

Rub strake in place with clamps.

[Nirvana]

And here the frieze is in position but not glued.

[Nirvana]

After adding the stern post I used a steel ruler to compare angle with transom and post.

Hmm, sure enough there was an even gap of 1mm. Another filler (trimmed) glued in place and some extra sanding and it will be good.

[Nirvana]

I have a hard getting waterline correct,

feels like I get it to low.

I did use regular pencil, taking the distance from the cap rail on plans and transferred.

Had the boat leveled and had the pen set on a wood block to draw the line.

See attached picture, and please guide me to get this right.

 

 

[mtaylor]

Per,

 

Set the boat up like you have it.  Then put the pencil in something to hold it at the right height.  You might have to flip the boat over if it sits down by the stern. Do the instructions have any method mentioned?

[Nirvana]

I got tired of trying to get the waterline done with pencil.

Didn't seem to get it right, so I approached it with eye sight and tape.

This is the first try.

[CaptainSteve]

Per,

Rigging up one of these took me all of three minutes: