Best Glue for Metal to Wood?

[mkmossop]

I have to glue some small metallic flags to the side of my ship. The flags have a tiny metal nub coming off of them, which is the only surface to fasten to, so it's not much.

 

I've glued them with wood glue, which obviously didn't work that well, but it worked well enough until I hit them off a few times.

 

Is there something better than typical super glue I can use for this?

[Keith_W]

The usual recommendation is either epoxy or super glue. Personally I prefer epoxy.

[dgbot]

I prefer epoxy for a permanet bond.

David B

[mkmossop]

Thanks!

[testazyk]

I agree that epoxy is probably best. 

 

If you can find some anaerobic adhesive (3m and Loctite make them) it makes life a lot easier because you don't have to mix it up like epoxy.  The fumes aren't bad like superglue.  These glues are used for thread locking and pipe sealing so they are strong.  The only downsides are cost and you'll never use all you buy before it dries up.  But for big metal applications (e.g., Sovereign of the Seas) as I say it makes life easier.

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

If you can find some anaerobic adhesive (3m and Loctite make them) 

 

But remember that they only cure in a total absence of air so your fit must be perfect.

[testazyk]

True Pops, and that can be a problem on wood surfaces like if you are gluing a strip over several planks and have gaps.  But I haven't noticed that affecting the integrity over time.  (so far )

[allanyed]

Did you consider not gluing them?  Drill very small holes and pin them to the hull with tiny brass nails or brad.  Paint over the "bolt" heads to match the  flags as close as you can.  OR drill and pin with shoirt pieces of very small diameter brass rod then put a dot of epoxy.

 

 Allan

[mkmossop]

Hmm... yes I think I would try that if I hadn't already drilled large holes in the side of my ship to fit the stub of the flag in... it wouldn't work now.

 

I'm gonna try out the epoxy.

[Modeler12]

make sure its the 24 hour curing epoxy. The 5 minute stuff is not up to the job.

This is true to some extend. However, we should not confuse 'pot life' and 'cure time".

What I mean is that pot life is a rough measure of how long it takes for the mix to start gelling. The actual cure starts slowly and takes many hours to complete. Parts should remain clamped or at least not be disturbed while the epoxy cures.

 

The '5 minute stuff' is typically a two part epoxy (resin and hardener) and has a pot life of a few minutes. It still takes at least several hours to fully cure. In fact 24 hours is better.

I have also used epoxies that have a pot life of several hours (depending on ambient temperature). And these also require a full 24 hours to cure at room temperature. The advantage is that you can move things around for some time and use the mix for several applications before it starts to solidify and cure.

 

One more suggestion: for small applications I squirt about equal parts of resin and hardener on a piece of scrap wood and mix them with a toothpick. A round toothpick is also handy as an applicator. For hard to reach places I have a clothespin holding the toothpick.

[Jaxboat]

Nice discussion on Epoxies Modeler12. You are spot on!

Best

Jaxboat

Edited August 9, 2014 by Jaxboat

[dgbot]

I normally use the 5 min.stuff.  A little at a time.  And I stay away from those large syringe like tubes.  Yes they are cheaper, but for my purposes they are a waste and a little on the messy side.  If you are working on something large they are a good deal.  Otherwise stay with the regular tubes. Less waste less of a mess.  And will probably last longer.

David B

[cdogg]

Anyone ever use the titebond polyurethane glue? That lookalike it might work well

[dgbot]

Anyone ever use the titebond polyurethane glue? That lookalike it might work well

Titebond is basically another brand of PVA glue like Elmers. I have used both.  And there really is no difference I can notice.  So for me it is personal preference.

[dgbot]

Mixing is pretty straight forward.  50/50 mix.  You do not have to be exact.  As for clean up I have used rubbing alcohol and mineral spirits with little trouble.  The big mess comes when you use to much and it oozes all over the place.

David B

[jud]

Plumbers Goop. I have used this stuff for some odd adhesive needs and to my amazement works well. I tried it for gluing corner location markers to surfaces where a nail would not work, attaching with 4 nails was the norm. Those corner Markers were aluminum, I scratched them up on the back and used that Plumbers Goop to attach them to boulders, rock faces and once to a RR tool house made of steel and painted. The one on the tool house went through 2 paintings over the years and was still in place when the shed was replaced. Those markers placed on rock have stayed in place for more than 20 years, the RR shed was replaced after about 15 years. Another application I used it for was to mark a 25 food grid in an area almost totally covered with concrete and to do it fast.  A large warehouse used for chemical storage had burned and the grid was needed so the location of sampling could be quickly and accurately determined. Used 2" steel washers stamped with the grid position, marked the proper locations for them using a total station and glued the washers to the concrete as we went using Plumbers goop, they stayed for at least 10 years until the site was clean enough to remove the concrete and to rebuild over the site. Have used that stuff for many things, it is difficult to work with right out of the tube but with the use of toothpicks and a little licking of the forefinger to move the stuff around without sticking it can be used for small fixes. I have kept a tube of that stuff along with a roll of duct tape in my rig, shop and home for years.

jud

I need to add that, that stuff remains flexible after curing so different rates of expansion and contraction caused by heat, cooling or moisture changes are tolerated without harm to the glue

 

Not affiliated with , below from internet.

Product Details

Original formula. Industrial strength. Stronger than glue. A versatile adhesive and sealant that may be used for just about any do-it-yourself plumbing project. Use it to seal leaking pipes, downspouts, gutter seams and porcelain fixtures. Formulated to seal and stick to a wide variety of materials, you'll find it's even stronger than silicone on PVC, tile and garden hoses. Waterproof and flexible when dry, so it won't break or crack under pressure. Use on metal, rubber, vinyl, plastic, glass, wood, canvas, tile, concrete. No mess, easy to use. Permanent, lasting repair. Seal sinks and countertops. Connect PVC, ABS and copper pipes. Reattach loose tiles. Seal around sink traps.

Edited August 9, 2014 by jud

[mtaylor]

Spyglass,

 

I thought I read somewhere here that isopropyl alcohol works on cleaning up epoxy but only while it's "wet".  Once it sets, you're up the proverbial creek without the proverbial paddle.

[omarcs]

I have been using canopy cement with some success. Model airplane guys use it and it pretty much glues anything to anything and it dries clear.

[Bill Hime]

Spyglass,

 

I thought I read somewhere here that isopropyl alcohol works on cleaning up epoxy but only while it's "wet".  Once it sets, you're up the proverbial creek without the proverbial paddle.

 

Yes! When it dries, it becomes a "tumor" on your project if it's in the wrong places. It has a place in the cabinet shop, but the only thing you'll find in the shipyard is CA and PVA

 

 

Bill

Edited October 16, 2014 by Bill Hime