HMB Endeavour by DaveRow - FINISHED - Corel - Scale 1:60 - First Build Kit

[Captain Slog]

Hi Dave,

 

What is the metal block that your Dremel appears to be secured in?

 

Cheers

Slog

[DaveRow]

Hi Dave,

 

What is the metal block that your Dremel appears to be secured in?

 

Cheers

Slog

Hi Slog,

It is an after market housing I got from Rob Mallett of (MTW); mytoolstore.com.au

He is in Brisbane, operates from under his home, specializes in small hand tools and accessories. 

Some time ago I fiddled making a home made Lathe and in talking to Rob, he had previously sourced the Dremel housing.

PM if you want to call him for the No. or it is on his Web Site.

 

Picture of an earlier version of the home made Lathe, with housing.

 

I since have bought and set up a Record Power DML305 for spar production. 

 

Dave R

[DaveRow]

Nice work Dave, there were so many of them I just used aftermarket brass ones that I blackened but you've showed far more discipline

Hi Greg,

Not sure about the discipline, I kind of wanted to stick with timber belaying pins, I just need to get my head into gear and just do them. If I need more than 30, well another stint.

 

Slow going, but coming along.

 

 

Dave R 

[DaveRow]

Update in the Shipyard.

The time come to fix in place the deck furniture items I have been constructing for the last few months.

Here are a few pictures of the items.

 

Fore Mast Area: 

 

 

Mid Ships:

 

Stern:

 

I keep finding eye bolts(for the standing and running rigging) to add onto the deck, best to add in now whilst not so cluttered. I believe I am up to something like 40 now.

 

Still a few other items I have made to go on, wait further in on the build to fix after the middle pulleys and ropes added.

 

 

 

Dave R

[BANYAN]

Somevery nice detail emerging Dave; will really add to the model presentation when complete.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[DaveRow]

Chains and links to the channels

I mocked up my first(prototype) of the port fore channel chains.

 

 

 

I am actually very pleased the way this one has come out. 

Only another 31 to make like this set for the cats_eyes, + 20 shorter cats, all for the hull channels, another 6 for the back stays, then all the rigging ones.

I'll have to work out a mass production line for them !

 

I used a resistance welding unit I bought from the USA, an American Beauty SC250, to join(weld) the copper wire(many thanks to Pat, Banyan for providing advice on this unit).

After a couple of practice runs on wire loops and joints, I got the hang of using the probes. temperature, flux and solder.

Very happy so far how fast and neat it joins the wire.

 

 

 

 

Dave R

[Cabbie]

Very nice work Dave

You have been a very busy chap.

The chains look very straight and neat and with the deck furniture

she is coming along real well.

Hooroo Chris

[DaveRow]

Chains and links to the channels

Still working on the chains and links. Lots to make.

 

Fore and Main Cats Eye done - 3 of the 4 sets(of 6) hanging.

Still to make the 4 sets of 2 smaller ones for backstays)

 

Settled on this arrangement for the Fore and Main Channel Chains.

It is probably the first metal item(Link) that came with the kit(and likely the only) that I have used. 

 

 

Mizzen Cats Eyes(2 sets of 4) and Link(cut down of the main ones)

Smaller units, bit more fiddly to handle.

 

I have been using the resistance welding unit for the solder joints.

I tried 4 different solders on test joints. If I am right a 60/40 solder Tin/Lead holds very well.

So that is what I have used.

Most of the Cats Eyes solder will be hidden by the channel cap, so not a problem hiding it.

 

 

Dave R

[dashi]

Hi Dave,

 

Just found your build log. I am impressed with your craftmanship and attention to detail.

 

Keep up the good work Dash :-)

[BANYAN]

Great progrees Dave, and glad to see you have very quickly come to grips with resistance soldering - it's the ant's pants once you work out the right power settings for the various types of jobs

 

cheers

 

Pat

[DaveRow]

Some shots of the Port and Starboard sides of the hull.

I went over the blue and yellow painted sections on the hull and touched the colors up.

I am leaving the Channels as timber, not painting them, as the timber against the blue and yellow is a good contrast.

 

 

 

 

 

Next; more work to create the shrouds(wire, loops cats eyes, etc.) 

 

 

Dave R

 

[BANYAN]

She is looking good Dave; plenty of nice detail.  I left the boat boom hardware off the channels as I thought I might catch them and damage them or the channels while rigging; I'll be interested to see how you make out.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[DaveRow]

She is looking good Dave; plenty of nice detail.  I left the boat boom hardware off the channels as I thought I might catch them and damage them or the channels while rigging; I'll be interested to see how you make out.

 

cheers

 

Pat

Hi Pat,

Time will tell, I have brushed against the hull, rails transom a few times, everything is fixed in place, mostly with epoxy glue, strong as.

The boat boom hardware, fixed on very well, their would be damage if I tried to remove them.

I am really happy with the channels though, being glued into the slot I allowed for in the sheer strake, and the knees > they are fixed in really well.  

 

Dave R

[DaveRow]

Hello Shipmates,

In preparation for the masts and rigging, I have been wishing to order all the rope and blocks in 1 order for each(cut down on postage).

I have had little success from attempts to see what volumes others have used.

The blocks(those cheap square ugly things) and rope that came with the kit, I am not happy with the quality.

 

So I used Steel's "STEEL - Progressive Method of Rigging Ships" and translated the data into a spreadsheet(I posted this task some several months ago)

The table below is the outcome of hours of work.  

I came up with for the number, size and type of blocks for the Endeavour Rigging(standing and running).

Have ordered the lot, plus some extra.  

It is a bit short of the 700 mentioned below.

 

Blocks                    

Size                2.00     3.00     4.00    5.00     6.00      7.00      8.00     9.00

TOTAL 670    

465 Single        2           186       169     62       10          26         4            6

103 Double                   14        32        10       33         14  

12 Hearts                      4          0         24         2          0            0            0

90 Dead Eyes                66         0         24        0           0            0           0

 

I have an article called "Rerigging Endeavour Part 2 by Anthony Longhurst", ANMM leading-hand rigger and shipwright.

 

It mentions the Endeavour has nearly 700 blocks, eight kilometres of running rigging, 30 spars (masts, yards and booms) and 10,000 square feet (930 m2) of canvas that make up Endeavour’s sails.

I am short 30 ! I'll find them I am sure.

 

I am currently working from "Steels" to calculate the amount of standing and running rope; size and length to order.

 

 

 

Dave R

Edited March 16, 2016 by DaveRow

[robnbill]

Each Cannon would have had about 10 blocks. There would also have been blocks in the lifts for handling the ship's boats.

[Cabbie]

Hi Dave

If i get down on my knees and beg, will you pass this information on to me later?

 

Oh and did I say your model is looking absolutely brilliant.

 

Thanks Chris

[shipaholic]

Hi Dave

At least we have the luxury now of being able to purchase great looking blocks from the likes of Chuck at Syren. When I built my AL Endeavour I used those ugly square ones that came with the kit and I individually sanded each one to the correct shape and varnished them - a lot of work.

Cheers

Steve

[DaveRow]

Hi Dave

At least we have the luxury now of being able to purchase great looking blocks from the likes of Chuck at Syren. When I built my AL Endeavour I used those ugly square ones that came with the kit and I individually sanded each one to the correct shape and varnished them - a lot of work.

Cheers

Steve

The blocks in my Corel kit were the square ones as well.

You deserve a medal for all that sanding to the blocks.

Something I did not intend doing, hence the big purchase of CNC blocks, they should look really great in the rig.

 

I worked out each was costing approx. 0.32 AUS cents each landed to my doorstep from Poland.

Compared to some of my other purchases, that is quiet reasonable.

 

I was going to get some of Chucks 3.5mm Boxwood cleats to check them out.

Save me some time making my own, my fingers do enough small work on plenty of other "jobs" for the ship.

 

Dave R

[DaveRow]

Hi Dave

If i get down on my knees and beg, will you pass this information on to me later?

 

Oh and did I say your model is looking absolutely brilliant.

 

Thanks Chris

I've PM you.

[DaveRow]

Each Cannon would have had about 10 blocks. There would also have been blocks in the lifts for handling the ship's boats.

Hi Bill

Thanks for looking in.

I've ordered more of each for other "things".

700 seems a lot, but all was done by hand and pulley purchase in those seafaring days.

 

Dave R

[DaveRow]

The shipyard is working on the Shroud Chains.

I am well advanced, with most of the main channel chains made.

Couple of earlier shots of the inner Mast Tackle eyes(I believe that is what they are for).

There is a third eye for the Tye Tackle on the Fore and Main channels.

 

 

Hard not to scratch the metal, however they should come up with a bit of touching up.

 

 

Dave R

[shipaholic]

Hi Dave

You should blacken the chains rather than paint them, as you say they scratch easily when painted. Blackening also looks more realistic, and the solder should blacken okay.

Cheers Steve

[BANYAN]

I learned that the hard way also Dave.  I use Birchwood Casey blackening which works on most soft metals and solders (tin and silver base).  It is also easy to touch up on the model if you do happen to damage the finish by using an cotton bud to dab the solution and cleaning off with water.  The main items likely to be surface damaged are the nails (bolts) where sometimes a little force is required to drive them fully - but properly sized drilled holes should minimise even this.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[DaveRow]

Port Channel chains and shroud dead-eye assemblies.

 

After a lot of chain making, minute welding, cleaning, blackening, painting, aligning, gluing etc.

The port Channel chain assemblies are in place(finished ?) apart from the cover strips(which I plan to make and pin in place in case I need to work on the chains down the track)

I have string holding each dead-eye up, some CA glue applied in the channel slot, just beneath the dead-eye.

 

Port Fore Channel

 

Port Main Channel

 

Port Mizzen Channel

 

I now apply a coat of clear to the metal items to protect from scratching.

 

Note: I am very disappointed in the "3 x hole" pattern of some of the dead eyes.

I used the kit supplied large ones and smaller ones purchased. Only 50% are spot on equal lateral triangle, the others ? you'll see.

 

 

Backstay chains and thimbles, dead-eye

 

I have made the Port and Starboard for above.

Here they have been cleaned(hydrocloric acid) before blackening. 

 

 

Onto the Starboard side next. All the main parts are made, just hours of assembly to go.

 

 

Dave R

[BANYAN]

Dave, they are looking really good.  If you can avoid doing so; I would recommend leaving the channel capping pieces off until you have finished rattlin - that way of any of the joints give way 9like they did for me) at least you won't have to worry about removiong the glued capping piece.  maybe a temporary one that is pinned to hold the chains and deadeyes in place?

 

Keep he good work going mate, she is looking great.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[DaveRow]

Back Stay Chains

 

Fitted the 3 x port side back stay chains.

 

Fore Top-Gallant:

 

Main Top-Gallant:

 

Mizzen Backstay:

 

Dave R

[DaveRow]

Starboard Channel chains and shroud dead-eye assemblies.

Have attached the starboard shroud chain assemblies.

A close up under the Main channel. I like the angle shot.

 

 

This is what the chains looked like after a clean with Hydrocloric acid.

 

The welds were done with a resistance welding system. does a neat job.

 

 

 

Dave R

[donrobinson]

Those welds do look really good Dave, seems like that would be a good investment. Great job so far on your ship.

[Cabbie]

Yes Don I agree as well,

Dave, it looks as though you have a great assembly line set up,

producing very consistent looking chains.

And yes the pics look real good showing up your work.

Chris

[Greg the peg leg sailor]

G'day Dave

Can't agree more! You are doing a marvellous job on the chains. I've got mine to do in the near future, I'll be happy to get near to your standard mate.

Havagooday

Greg

Edited March 24, 2016 by Greg the peg leg sailor