yvesvidal Posted December 23, 2014 #121 Posted December 23, 2014 Beautiful planking and caulking Jack. I wish I could dance on such beautiful deck. Merry Christmas to you and your family. Yves Quote
jack.aubrey Posted December 23, 2014 Author #122 Posted December 23, 2014 Thank you Yves, I wish to you, to Fam and to all the other members of MSW, and to their family as well, a Happy Christmas and a Happy Prosperous 2015 . . Quote
jack.aubrey Posted January 2, 2015 Author #123 Posted January 2, 2015 (edited) Friday, January 2, 2015 To begin, I wish a good 2015 to all users of this forum . . Looking at the previous message it appears that I have not done too much on this model . . it's partly true, because during the Christmas period there was not much time to devote to ship modelling but, anyway, I found two/three days free and I continued with the installation of the deck planks. It is not an easy task and it requires a lot of time !!!! Now "only" two full strakes per side are missing and then the deck "should" be done. But I think that these two strakes are probably the most difficult to install, because they have to be absolutely precise to perfectly close the deck. And after it remains a final detail to be solved: all the countless dots where the thin brass nails, to hold the planks until the glue was dryed, were hammered. The nails were subsequently removed but the small hole remains . . The oil for wood highlights the visibility of these holes and an action is required to hide them, also because, not knowing beforehand that the oil would have highlighted them so well, the various holes result mainly misplaced. I have kept all the limewood dust I produced during the tapering of the strips; mixed with "something" (I have not yet decided whether using glue or woodfiller varnish or clear acrylic paint) I would like to use it to fill the holes with a spatula for painters . . should work ? Will see. A cordial greeting, Jack. 01 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100166_zps71ee075f.jpg 02 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100165_zps0cf09207.jpg 03 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100164_zpsa070ba2a.jpg 04 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100169_zpsdbda1599.jpg 05 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100167_zps844bd66e.jpg 06 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100168_zps9e327db5.jpg Edited September 8, 2017 by jack.aubrey Bluto 1790, mtaylor, tadheus and 1 other 4 Quote
Fam Posted January 3, 2015 #124 Posted January 3, 2015 Hi JA Happy New Year 2015! The looking of your planking is really fantastic, I like it very much! It's a pity for the holes of the pins, I hope your sawdust trick will do the job of making them disappear Fam Quote Joint building: Brick de 24, 1/48, jointly with Jack Aubrey (POB from Ancre plans) Works in progress: USS Constitution Cross Section, 1:93 (POF bashed from Mamoli kit) Completed models: Santìsima Trinidad, 1/90 (POB heavily modified DeAgostini kit) Genoan Pinco, 1/50 (POB bashed from Euromodel plans - my current avatar) Viking Knarr, 1/72 (POF from Dusek kit)
jack.aubrey Posted January 4, 2015 Author #125 Posted January 4, 2015 Hello to everybody . . regarding the brick name I'm still in high waters, while I'm considering HMS Colibri . . but there is no hurry, I can wait until I'll have to build the figurehead. The pins holes, instead, are the real problem now: while very small they are visible and this obviously isn't good. I have to do some tests to see what is the best way to make them disappear. Many areas of the deck will be covered, but others will remain open and here it's mandatory to do something. It's a problems to solve before the name, but I think to have time to find a good solution: when the last four deck strakes will be added I can continue my work by finishing the hull planking while in parallel I can find the best solution. Finishing the hull planking means probably some weeks. Waiting is a usual strategy I adopt when I find difficulties and helps to control emotional situations: the time generally resolves most of the problems. If I could come back in the past with a time machine I'll probably use a different way to hold the planks while glueing them . . power of experience ! Finally, based on how the story will be concluded, in theory, there would also to start the tree nailing of all the deck strakes. Honestly I don't know how feasible this last task will be. Looking at the plans each strake has two tree nails every 30/40mm. It's an incredible work and, at prow and poop, the strakes are too close and then my work would be exposed to the risk of showing a poorly attractive effect. Another problem to solve in the future if I'll decide for the treenailing . . Ciao a tutti, Jack.Aubrey Quote
mtaylor Posted January 5, 2015 #126 Posted January 5, 2015 If the deck isn't oiled, a touch of glue at each hole and a light sanding of the deck with fine sandpaper usually hides them. Not always, but usually. There's also fill the hole with wood filler and then sand and re-oil as that will make the holes less visible and more like a treenail would appear. Quote Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build: Past Builds: La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD Triton Cross-Section NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Non-Ship Model: On hold, maybe forever: CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)
jack.aubrey Posted January 5, 2015 Author #127 Posted January 5, 2015 If the deck isn't oiled, a touch of glue at each hole and a light sanding of the deck with fine sandpaper usually hides them. Not always, but usually. There's also fill the hole with wood filler and then sand and re-oil as that will make the holes less visible and more like a treenail would appear. Hi mtaylor, unfortunately, the deck has been already treated with oil. And this untimely process was my mistake, justified by the fear that treating the wood with diluted glue before may alter the color during its final treatment with the oil. I think to prepare a filler using dust of the same wood used for the strips, that I've carefully collected, and mixing this powder with glue or with woodfiller paint. I do not know how it will work so I need to do some tests on samples. Anyway thanks for your advice. Cheers and, of course, happy 2015. Jack. mtaylor 1 Quote
garyshipwright Posted January 6, 2015 #128 Posted January 6, 2015 Have you thought about just filling the holes with trunnels? When am installing parts and pieces to Alfred I usually hold the parts in place with pins and then fill the hole with a wooden nail. Just a ideal but may give you something to think about. Gary Quote HMS Montague/Alfred class by Gary B 74 gun ship built in 1779
jack.aubrey Posted January 7, 2015 Author #129 Posted January 7, 2015 Have you thought about just filling the holes with trunnels? When am installing parts and pieces to Alfred I usually hold the parts in place with pins and then fill the hole with a wooden nail. Just a ideal but may give you something to think about. Gary I beg your pardon Gary, but I cannot translate in Italian language the word "trunnels", can you help me ? Quote
Landrotten Highlander Posted January 7, 2015 #130 Posted January 7, 2015 According to Wikipedia a trunnel is also called a treenail, trenail or trennel. It is a wooden pin or dowel to fasten two bits of wood together. Peter Quote Heghlu'meH QaQ jajvam Slainte gu mhath L.H.
jack.aubrey Posted January 13, 2015 Author #131 Posted January 13, 2015 (edited) Tuesday, January 13, 2015 Last Saturday I finished to install the deck planking . . Then I didn't achieved anything else because I had a continuous succession of unexpected events that I couldn't find time for ship modeling. I hope, now, to be able to resume the activities. Before resuming the planking of the hull, I must go to a shipmodels shop to buy other strips of limewood 6 x 2 because, having also used them for the deck, I haven't enough wood for completing the hull. Finally a few words about the process to hide the holes of the nails on the deck, the problem that kept my mind busy for a while: I did some tests on a tablet that I had prepared when I did the test for caulking, doing similar holes and applying the same oil used for the deck, recreating the same starting point. I managed to make them disappear almost completely, even if the process consists of several steps before considering it finished. On the deck of the model I did the first two steps, which already have acheived a certain effect, but for the other steps it would be preferable to wait until the works on the inner sides of the bulwarks are concluded. So I decided that the next step will be to open the gunports for guns and carronades, nine on each side. Probably today I hope to track all them in the right location with precision and to open at least one gunport . . we will see. A cordial greeting to all of you, Jack.Aubrey. 01 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/20150112_110720_zps53a7cf77.jpg 02 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/20150112_110457_zpsd5fc6a7e.jpg 03 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/20150112_110446_zpsf1e8eaa9.jpg 04 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/20150112_110452_zps2045ade9.jpg 05 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/20150112_110429_zps57c78d80.jpg Edited September 8, 2017 by jack.aubrey ChrisLBren, tadheus, mtaylor and 1 other 4 Quote
jack.aubrey Posted January 14, 2015 Author #132 Posted January 14, 2015 (edited) Wednesday, January 14, 2015 As promised, yesterday afternoon I came back at work and I decided to start with the opening of the gunports for the ship's guns and carronades. The most important job was to mark the position of the 18 gunports on the bulwarks, taking measures using the ANCRE plans. I checked and rechecked the measures several times before considering this activity concluded. Below you can see a side of the model with the locations of the gunports marked. 01 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/20150113_173955_zps1f0dc4da.jpg The opening of the gunports proved fairly simple and also quite fast. I've run the vertical cuts with the coping saw, being a bit smaller to finish the cut with a suitable sanding block. Regardinmg the horizontal cut, I practiced some holes with the minidrill and then, always with the coping saw, I cut the area not drilled. Then I had to smooth with greater force and attention but at the end the result is very good. You can view the prototype gunport from a couple of different viewpoints in the next two images. 02 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/20150113_173841_zpsd3cbbb31.jpg 03 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/20150113_173752_zpsd71cbf25.jpg Then it had to fill the thickness side with veneer, again an activity requiring patience but relatively simple. The important thing is to glue the veneer very well to avoid detachment problems during the subsequent sanding. 04 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/20150113_180419_zpse8473dd7.jpg Finally, the sanding when the glue was totally dried. This activity was performed using a fine-grained sanding block combined with a very light pressure. The result comments alone. 05 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/20150113_185119_zps68b3c0e6.jpg Today I'm still at work since this morning and obviously I plan to openi and finish all the gunports of my brick. See you soon. Jack.Aubrey. Edited September 8, 2017 by jack.aubrey Bluto 1790, tadheus, mtaylor and 1 other 4 Quote
Fam Posted January 15, 2015 #133 Posted January 15, 2015 Ciao JA you really did a neat job, I like it very much!! Looking forward to seeing the other gunports done! Ciao Fam Quote Joint building: Brick de 24, 1/48, jointly with Jack Aubrey (POB from Ancre plans) Works in progress: USS Constitution Cross Section, 1:93 (POF bashed from Mamoli kit) Completed models: Santìsima Trinidad, 1/90 (POB heavily modified DeAgostini kit) Genoan Pinco, 1/50 (POB bashed from Euromodel plans - my current avatar) Viking Knarr, 1/72 (POF from Dusek kit)
jack.aubrey Posted January 15, 2015 Author #134 Posted January 15, 2015 (edited) Wednesday, January 14, 2015 Despite the good intentions, I was able to (almost) finish the right side of the hull. In addition, not visible in the photos, because I took them before, I opened four more gunports on the left side. Now only five ports are missing. In the first picture we have a view of the ports all together already smoothed and just only a couple still raw. 01 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/20150114_095145_zpsb7a6fe96.jpg A detail of the gunports after the sanding process . . 02 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/20150114_095153_zpsefc85a43.jpg Whereas here there are a few ports still raw, just to understand the sequence of my working activities. 03 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/20150114_095158_zpse2edfb43.jpg Here the ports are ready to be covered with veneer. . 04 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/20150114_100459_zps97daac1a.jpg And, here, the veneer is applied, waiting the glue to dry . . 05 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/20150114_121025_zps520f608c.jpg Next step: the final sanding and completion of all the missing gunports. Finally many thanks to Paul for his comment I greatly appreciated. Cheers, Jack. Edited September 8, 2017 by jack.aubrey Timmo, Fam, Bluto 1790 and 2 others 5 Quote
jack.aubrey Posted January 27, 2015 Author #135 Posted January 27, 2015 (edited) Tuesday, January 27, 2015 Let's forget the productivity issue. . . these days I certainly didn't shine. In the few moments that I could devote to this model I started finishing the bulwark internal sides, in order to achieve the main targets on the deck and continue with the hull planking. In this first series of images I show the work in a transitional phase, just to show how much patience, precision and attention this task requires. First I applied a first walnut plank (4mm high and 1mm deep) located right above the waterway. Then, above it, there will be two others strips: one of walnut 2x1 and another of walnut 2x2. At this point the latter should be aligned with the lower side of the gun-ports. Since, however, there is not anywhere the exact height of 4mm, as at some points it's less, and in other it's more, even if only slightly, I preferred to first apply new strips over these two just now described. That's why they are missing ! These new strips are scratch built starting from a sheet of chestnut veneer with thickness 0.4. The planks of veneer are slightly abundant in order to better finish the border when the glue is dried. The photos below show these details while the glue is drying. With a sanding block and a lot of attention, I'll proceed with sanding, task that was already done on the right side of the hull. We will see this part in a next message. Sincerely, Jack. 01 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100173_zpsi7g9m01a.jpg 02 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100172_zpsix0gooje.jpg 03 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100178_zps3yq7vrrm.jpg 04 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100170_zpsvhkqtvss.jpg 05 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100179_zpshm7ygj5k.jpg Edited September 8, 2017 by jack.aubrey mtaylor and Bluto 1790 2 Quote
jack.aubrey Posted January 29, 2015 Author #136 Posted January 29, 2015 (edited) Wednesday, January 28, 2015 In this post I'm showing the right side of the hull, where the work for finishing the bulwarks internally is more advanced, although not so much. Here you should notice the famous strip, described in my previous message, aligned with the lower side of the gun-ports. It is made with walnut 2 x 2. In addition the two vertical sides of the ports are finished with a walnut strip 2 x 1. There is a last strip still missing, theoretically 2 x 1, to install below the 2 x 2. The same work must be done in the bow area, on both sides of the hull. And, again, then I'll have also to work internally at poop. I need to keep myself calm about this last matter, sooner or later I'll arrive at the end. 01 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/20150128_122038_zps8jksjqw8.jpg 02 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/20150128_122047_zpsocv0tqbz.jpg 03 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/20150128_122054_zpsyqimag7z.jpg 04 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/20150128_114826_zpsdtfwhoec.jpg Regards, Jack.Aubrey. Edited September 8, 2017 by jack.aubrey tadheus, hexnut, mtaylor and 5 others 8 Quote
Fam Posted January 29, 2015 #137 Posted January 29, 2015 Beautiful work JA, as always! So, can I state that the gunport sills seat parallel to the waterway, and thus to the deck sides? Fam Quote Joint building: Brick de 24, 1/48, jointly with Jack Aubrey (POB from Ancre plans) Works in progress: USS Constitution Cross Section, 1:93 (POF bashed from Mamoli kit) Completed models: Santìsima Trinidad, 1/90 (POB heavily modified DeAgostini kit) Genoan Pinco, 1/50 (POB bashed from Euromodel plans - my current avatar) Viking Knarr, 1/72 (POF from Dusek kit)
jack.aubrey Posted February 5, 2015 Author #138 Posted February 5, 2015 (edited) Thursday, February 5, 2015 After a few days of regular activities, finally I came to a point where it is worthwhile to show the progress made so far. Someone might argue that the innovations are not many, and probably is right but he should consider that what I had to do were true finishes, although basic, and these activities take lot of time. Moreover, being concentrated more or less all in the same area, I needed to give the glue time to do his job before moving forward. I begin the usual roundup of photographs starting from some overall views of the hull, then entering into details. As you can see all the inner bulwarks have been completed, even in the bow area where it was a little more complicated. After this activity, which, I repeat, took some time, I worked on the sternpost. Here I first had to sand the two internal central supports to level the inner side. I used the Proxxon BS/E belt sander, very suitable for this type of operation. Then I planked the inside with strips of veneer as I made for the bulwarks. Externally I applied the final shaped piece of the transom that protrudes beyond the hull, to be filled later. It is 1 mm. thick and it's applied over the existing structure and reinforced, on the protruding sides, to take it to the same thickness of the inner part. 01 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100181_zps54i6obtb.jpg 02 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100182_zpscgzolmjl.jpg 03 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100185_zpspllthr5j.jpg In the image below you can clearly see the outside of the poop. A very interesting work was the opening of the two round windows that are nothing more than two gun-ports. 04 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100186_zpslzuyj8me.jpg Its achievement was a matter of patience and use of appropriate tools. The use of a drill with a big drill bit is to be avoided. I performed +/- twenty holes of 0.8 along the entire circumference of the gun-port and then I cut it all with a coping saw. Obviously the hole had to be finished with files and abrasives. The result can be judged here. 05 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100183_zpsrvezwgf3.jpg Even at the bow I worked hard, here the basic works can be considered virtually finished, obviously at least in this phase of the build. Aft, the inside wall has some areas to be still completed. But, for the moment, I could leave it as is and proceed with the hull planking. Exposed areas will be mostly covered by a kind of small cabin on each side and in the middle by a kind of box from which the tiller will emerge. Also the hole for the upper part of the rudder is still to be opened, but this will happen later. The few square centimeters that will remain uncovered will be finished properly at the proper time. 06 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100184_zpskpkuuvll.jpg For the next activity we will discuss in the next post. That's enough for today. Regards, Jack. Edited September 8, 2017 by jack.aubrey Bluto 1790, Leo-zd, tadheus and 8 others 11 Quote
yvesvidal Posted February 5, 2015 #139 Posted February 5, 2015 Jack, You recovered the deck planking in a very elegant way. The extra nails are barely visible and will disappear once the deck is equipped with all the guns and ropes. Great job. Yves Quote
jack.aubrey Posted February 6, 2015 Author #140 Posted February 6, 2015 (edited) Beautiful work JA, as always! So, can I state that the gunport sills seat parallel to the waterway, and thus to the deck sides? Fam Hi Fam, first of all I beg your pardon: I forgot to answer you when you posted your message. The answer is: as you can see on Table II of the Cygne plans by ANCRE, that you own, and also on Table IX the horizontal gunport sills seat parallel to the deck (Tab IX) but also to the external planking (Tab II). The vertical sills instead are perfectly parallel to the frames . . the result is a gunport not square shaped but rhomboidal . . Jack, You recovered the deck planking in a very elegant way. The extra nails are barely visible and will disappear once the deck is equipped with all the guns and ropes. Great job. Yves Hi Yves, what you see now is only the first step to hide the wrong nail holes on the deck planking. Unfortunately I need to pospone the other steps because I have still to take an important decision: shall I simulate the nails (or better the woodden caps) on the planks or not ? This is a lot of work and should be done now. This is also a critical decision because if I do this simulation I will have also to do the same externally and so and so. I'm not sure to enter in this escalation. Anyway, if I'll decide to simulate the nails, I'll use the same method used here to hide the wrong holes. The only difference will be in the colour of the paint, most probably darker but not too much. Looking with a magnifying glass this method is very, very realistic . . and fast. To conclude, thanks Fam and Yves for your comments, they are very useful to better discover the secrets of ship modelling. Jack. Edited February 6, 2015 by jack.aubrey mtaylor and Angarfather 2 Quote
jack.aubrey Posted February 7, 2015 Author #141 Posted February 7, 2015 (edited) Friday, February 6, 2015 In this post I present some more detailed images of the new things presented yesterday. In the first image a close-up view of the poop outside. At the proper time the area should be completed with a second planking and a decorative frame on the rounded edge, etc. 01 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100186Cropped_zpsfopcaf41.jpg The same element from the inside. Here there are still some activities to do, we'll see when, if doing them now or later, after finishing the hull planking. The stability and the convenience coming by using the current building slip in keeping the hull (which would become unusable if I finish the planking) is something that I would not give up too soon. Maybe I should study the building of a suitable pedestal to be used in its place, but this new support must keep the same characteristics of stability and practicality. 02 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100183Cropped_zpsotmymkv3.jpg Here, a closer view of the bow inside. Also here many new details will come, including the bowsprit, so I fear that at the end you will see very little. . 03 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100184Cropped_zpsmx5t9tkk.jpg 04 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100189_zpstcer7fjf.jpg Cheers, Jack.Aubrey. Edited September 8, 2017 by jack.aubrey mtaylor, yvesvidal, archjofo and 1 other 4 Quote
jack.aubrey Posted February 9, 2015 Author #142 Posted February 9, 2015 (edited) Saturday, February 7, 2015 What to do now? In these past days I reviewed again the Cygne plans to assess whether I should do some other work in the internal and external bulwarks and deck before resuming the installation of the hull planking. First I immediately identified a new task to be accomplished at this stage of the build: it consists of opening new ports for the oars. Yes this vessel has oars! This small sailship could also be managed with oars, seven per side. The image below shown introduces these openings specific to the oars. Internally the ports have the shape of a rectangle. In scale 1:48, the longer side is 6mm while the shorter is 4mm. Externally the shape was rather different, as shown in figure 01, slightly drop-shaped, to allow the insertion of the oar blade, and with the lower part rounded to allow the action of rowing. The outside was then closed by a lid pivoting on a fulcrum on top to prevent the entry of water when the oars were not used. These 14 ports MUST be opened now, before the second planking. The latter will take the shape planned for the outside. I say now because I can still use the building slip to work more smoothly. I will use the same method used for the gun-ports at the stern to open the oar ports, except that here the finishing must be done with tools of appropriate size, given the smaller size of this ports. For the moment I merely draw outside the proper location where these openings are with a pencil, as you can see from the pictures 02 and 03. So everything is ready to start this new task, but I need before to find and/or prepare the right tools. 01 Brick%20de%2024%20Plans/1319280d-f0c4-4202-bfe7-752c34227bbe_zpsaqsnnjmj.jpg 02 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100190_zpsbitdmmpl.jpg 03 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100191_zpsdfkthm4m.jpg Another work involving the bulwarks is related to the presence of three sheets (is this term correct?) per side as shown inside the red rectangle in the next two figures. These details, however, should be carried out later, even if the openings dedicated to them could be prepared from now. The sheets are three per side. The poop sheet (Fig.04) contains six pulleys (is this the correct term?) with diameter 4mm and thickness 0.8mm. The mid-ship sheet (Fig.05) contains five of them, same measures, while the far forward is single. I have not yet decided when to do this task, but I think the first thing should be to prepare the blocks containing the pulleys and then, having determined the correct dimensions, drill the holes. Once finished with the openings for the oars I'll try to prepare these sheets, then I'll decide whether to include them now or after the second planking. As I think you may have guessed, my approach is not predefined as for kit or partwork models. I proceed by alternating phases of work with planning stages, taking into account and starting from the model situation at the given time. The matter has a lot of fun. 04 Brick%20de%2024%20Plans/b22d9996-5c19-4af3-b281-baa7e5d8d3b1_zpsmge1fbmm.jpg 05 Brick%20de%2024%20Plans/8f552736-a7ca-4fb5-97fb-7cdc97829969_zps7ykurvoy.jpg Cheers, Jack.Aubrey. Edited September 8, 2017 by jack.aubrey mtaylor and yvesvidal 2 Quote
Fam Posted February 9, 2015 #143 Posted February 9, 2015 Ciao JA I'm finally back home so hope to reopen the shipyard soon! As far as the sheet blocks, consider they should be flush with the second external planking and with the internal planking. So probably it's better to prepare the rectangular slots for the blocks but delay their installation to after the 2nd planking is complete (just a suggestion!). I'm also interested in understanding if the drop shape of the oar-ports is only limited to the second planking thickness, the section is not clear on this matter. Bye Fam Quote Joint building: Brick de 24, 1/48, jointly with Jack Aubrey (POB from Ancre plans) Works in progress: USS Constitution Cross Section, 1:93 (POF bashed from Mamoli kit) Completed models: Santìsima Trinidad, 1/90 (POB heavily modified DeAgostini kit) Genoan Pinco, 1/50 (POB bashed from Euromodel plans - my current avatar) Viking Knarr, 1/72 (POF from Dusek kit)
jack.aubrey Posted February 10, 2015 Author #144 Posted February 10, 2015 (edited) On 9/2/2015 at 1:20 PM, Fam said: Ciao JA I'm finally back home so hope to reopen the shipyard soon! As far as the sheet blocks, consider they should be flush with the second external planking and with the internal planking. So probably it's better to prepare the rectangular slots for the blocks but delay their installation to after the 2nd planking is complete (just a suggestion!). I'm also interested in understanding if the drop shape of the oar-ports is only limited to the second planking thickness, the section is not clear on this matter. Bye Fam Hi Fam, happy you will restart soon . . Regarding the sheets blocks, what you wrote is exatcly what I decided to do. Yesterday I started the preliminary steps to prepare the sheet blocks, I think to continue today, but they will be installed after the second planking. I also made the ports for the oars on one side of the hull. I'll provide the external drop shape only to the second planking, although the right solution should be for the planking as a whole, but at this point it's not possible to achieve it. Monday, February 9, 2015 Today I opened the oar ports on the left side of the hull: mini drill, small files and patience is all you need. Regards, Jack. 01 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/20150209_180756_zps4ho13yay.jpg 02 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/20150209_180642_zpsfnrteuyc.jpg Edited September 8, 2017 by jack.aubrey mtaylor, kees de mol, yvesvidal and 2 others 5 Quote
Fam Posted February 10, 2015 #145 Posted February 10, 2015 JA I've checked the pictures we have about the Le Cygne, Le Cyclope and L'Esperance models... you should have them, as well. Apparently on these three models the oarports have a teardrop shape on the external side of the bulwarks, where they are closed by swivelling lids, but the shape on the internal side of the bulwarks is left square and not closed by any lid. So it is correct to cut the teardrop hole in the 2nd planking only, but.... this is only 0,5mm thick, the resulting borders of the hole will be probably too weak! What about adding another layer of veneer into the hole, flush with the 1st planking? So the final thickness will be twice that of the 2nd planking, maybe better and less prone to break... Bye Fam mtaylor 1 Quote Joint building: Brick de 24, 1/48, jointly with Jack Aubrey (POB from Ancre plans) Works in progress: USS Constitution Cross Section, 1:93 (POF bashed from Mamoli kit) Completed models: Santìsima Trinidad, 1/90 (POB heavily modified DeAgostini kit) Genoan Pinco, 1/50 (POB bashed from Euromodel plans - my current avatar) Viking Knarr, 1/72 (POF from Dusek kit)
jack.aubrey Posted February 10, 2015 Author #146 Posted February 10, 2015 What about adding another layer of veneer into the hole, flush with the 1st planking? So the final thickness will be twice that of the 2nd planking, maybe better and less prone to break... Bye Fam Good idea, Fam. This is surely possible and easy to implement . . Jack. mtaylor 1 Quote
jack.aubrey Posted February 11, 2015 Author #147 Posted February 11, 2015 (edited) Wednesday, February 11th, 2014 Yesterday I made some work to prepare the sheets that procured me a beautiful headache...... Cheers, Jack. Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100192_zpsmvtwwdn5.jpg Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100194_zpsfsozabtb.jpg Edited September 8, 2017 by jack.aubrey mtaylor, Fam, yvesvidal and 2 others 5 Quote
jack.aubrey Posted February 20, 2015 Author #148 Posted February 20, 2015 (edited) Thursday, February 19, 2015 As mentioned in my previous posts, it was time to return to work on the outside hull planking. For the occasion, I preferred to begin applying strakes starting from the keel. In particular, seen that the shape of the midship and fore bulkheads is almost straight and allowed it, I preferred to use strips, always in limewood, 10 x 2mm. much wider than those used until now. However for the next strakes I'll come back to the original measure (6 x 2 mm). In all the photographs I'm showing four full courses and two broken at the two ends, all the same size. Because the use of clamps and elastic at the bow and stern areas, I could not proceed very quickly to apply the four full strakes; it took me four days, basically a strake per day. Having to wait every time the COMPLETE drying of the glue I thought to introduce a novelty to strongly weld the first course to the keel: I prepared a filler made of glue and fine sawdust (obtained preserving the sawdust produced by the usage of the circular saw) applied with a spatula inside the first course, in the acute angle between the keel and the strip. After the first experience I found the right quantitative mix between glue and sawdust obtaining in practice some new wood. In the picture number 03 you can see a corner in the bow area where it is visible, although in this case is not yet completely dry because I applied it recently. Now the time has come to close for some twenty days the shipyard because me, my wife and my cats we all move to Tuscany, exactly in Calci (Pisa), where one of my two daughters lives . . It's from the beginning of September that we do not meet. Well worth the sorrow of leaving the Brick to season for a bit. . hoping to find good weather. Sincerely, Jack.Aubrey. 01 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/20150219_150537_zpshrknuezw.jpg 02 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/20150219_150547_zps3mmr7lhn.jpg 03 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/20150219_150727_zpsilzufm03.jpg 04 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/20150219_162110_zpsn7os6oqq.jpg Edited September 8, 2017 by jack.aubrey yvesvidal, mtaylor, Bluto 1790 and 2 others 5 Quote
Fam Posted February 20, 2015 #149 Posted February 20, 2015 Great job as usual JA, take care and enjoy your holiday... greetings to the beautiful Tuscany on my behalf! Fam Quote Joint building: Brick de 24, 1/48, jointly with Jack Aubrey (POB from Ancre plans) Works in progress: USS Constitution Cross Section, 1:93 (POF bashed from Mamoli kit) Completed models: Santìsima Trinidad, 1/90 (POB heavily modified DeAgostini kit) Genoan Pinco, 1/50 (POB bashed from Euromodel plans - my current avatar) Viking Knarr, 1/72 (POF from Dusek kit)
jack.aubrey Posted February 21, 2015 Author #150 Posted February 21, 2015 (edited) Sabato 21 Febbraio 2015 A couple of images without clamps and rubber bands . . left in the (photo)camera before leaving Milan. 01 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/20150220_154728_zps4josgs2g.jpg 02 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/20150220_154645_zpsb5qy8nl8.jpg Greetings from the leaning tower !!!!!!! piazza_duomo_pisa_zpsorrlkvol.jpg Edited September 8, 2017 by jack.aubrey mtaylor, Jay 1, aykutansin and 2 others 5 Quote
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