San Francisco 2 by Shaz - FINISHED - Artesania Latina - Wood

[themadchemist]

Hope all my suggestions arent making decision making more difficult. As an analytical chemist its my nature to ask why or what if. Plus Since I one day plan to build a SF I constantly have ideas bouncing around in my head. The brass nail and black strakes I'm stealing for when I get around to the SF though  .

I never have really liked the stark white (is it boxwood or holly) of the rail spindles on the SF's. But thats just me. Gold, hum. I wonder what gold leaf would look like. I got a small sizing pen and 6 small gold leaf sheets at hobby lobby last week for under $9 which I plan on using for gold leafing the name on the transom of one build. Black and gold is a great color combo, maybe not historic but sometimes I'm more into what I like then historic.

 

I'd say Adrieke, is right on the using a dowel to repair the breakage. That extra reinforcement is much stronger then a PVA or CA butt jointing, if you have a big enough piece to drill and dowel or pin that is.

[DCIronfist]

I am new to the site and the modeling world but thanks to your posts on your ship I feels though I have been on part of your journey with you and felt your ups and downs. By seeing how you have overcome obstacles and had the tenacity to stick with it is very encouraging to me .

 

Not sure if it would work on your windows but I think I read somewhere that plastic modelers use Elmer's glue to glue canopies on airplanes because it dries clear.

 

Thanks,

David

Edited March 30, 2013 by DCIronfist

[Adrieke]

so far i have used ca to glue my windows. dab a sligth amount  on the wood . wait a few secs then dab wiht a cloth. wait a bit more then position it carefuly not to slide it.

[themadchemist]

Since its being talked about I will mention this. Using CA to glue windows (I assume its a thin poly film of some kind) has one thing to watch out for.

In forensics CA is used to set fingerprints, the CA is attracted to the oil from the fingerprint and makes that permanent. For example if a car were the crime scene, a soda bottle cap filled with CA placed in the car will make every fingerprint in the auto visible. So make sure the film is clean of prints and place it with a tweezer.

 

Just a little analytical forensic FYI, Before heading the direction of pharma seperations I was planning on forensics. After finding out the FBI doesnt hire over 30 year olds, I switched directions, then I did again and taught.HS chem.

[fish]

Robbyn,

 

The nails on your rubbing strakes are from the kit? Or did you purchase other ones?

 

-Aaron

[Shazmira]

Yea, I am home. Sure was nice to go back and see the family for a couple days, nice to see a different set of four walls too, and I especially enjoyed spending time in the hobby shop and picking up some new goodies...no new kit for the shelf  . was kind of hoping to see a bunch and maybe pick one up, but this particular store seemed more  set up for the RC person and the model train enthusiast. Only wood boat they had was the bounty!! But my credit card I am sure is happier about that lol.

Rocker...lemon beer? I don't even like lemon in my ice tea

Aaron, yes, the nails provided in the kit.

 

Ok, I have checked in, now need to go unload the new washer and dryer, and since the boat building fairies didn't do any work for me this weekend she is still sitting on the drafting table waiting for me...

[Shazmira]

I am new to the site and the modeling world but thanks to your posts on your ship I feels though I have been on part of your journey with you and felt your ups and downs. By seeing how you have overcome obstacles and had the tenacity to stick with it is very encouraging to me .

 

Not sure if it would work on your windows but I think I read somewhere that plastic modelers use Elmer's glue to glue canopies on airplanes because it dries clear.

 

Thanks,

David

David, thanks for following along, the ups have been many, which more than make up for those down...even though they were fairly major. Nice thing about this hobby...even if you screw it up badly...it can still be fixed with a little elbow grease, ingenuity, and of course time

[Shazmira]

Okay, I am stuck. I am trying to add the limber strips and rails that sit atop the bulwarks. I need to bend these 2mm x 5mm strips laterally...meaning the curve needs to go through that 5mm width so the railings will follow the curve of the bulwark and hull. I am having no luck with this. Soaked, steamed, etc. It is like that 5mm thickness is just too much to get a curve. I can't afford to break any.

Anyone know of a good way to do this?

This is applewood btw

Edited April 1, 2013 by Shaz

[realworkingsailor]

You could try making relieving cuts along the inside edge of the curve to allow the wood to bend. a little bit of filler and some good sanding should hide them well enough.

 

What kind of wood are you using?

 

Andy

[JeffT]

In situations like this I usually cut the curved piece to shape from a wider piece of stock material, if available.

[JeffT]

This picture shows what I mean.

 

[Shazmira]

I don't have any wider stock on hand...not in the position to try and order a piece plus pay shipping too, sorry.

It is apple wood.

yes, perhaps notching one side of the strip will help, I hadn't thought of that.

[themadchemist]

Robbyn,

is there enough 5mm apple to glue 2 piece together and make a 10mm wide strip? Ive had to widen my last starboard plank in this way by only about 1 mm. If its in short supply, split the apple into 2.5mm planks and it goes twice as far. Just an Idea?

[lamarvalley]

Before I cut and mounted my vertical rubbing strakes (or whatever they're called) I cut and positioned the curved rails so the strakes would bump into them. I soaked mine for a few minutes and then clamped them down with tiny spring calmps starting at one end and working forward one clamp at a time. The clamps followed the curve of the wall and forced, ever so slightly, the timber to the bend.

I must say however that I am using mahogany for the rails not applewood or walnut (I think it's walnut ) or whatever they put into the kit.

[JeffT]

I don't have any wider stock on hand...not in the position to try and order a piece plus pay shipping too, sorry.

It is apple wood.

yes, perhaps notching one side of the strip will help, I hadn't thought of that.

 

You can glue strips together to make wider stock like themadchemist mentioned, but that's assuming you have enough stock to do so.

[sport29652]

Robbin I use a combination of boiling water and then a planking iron to get mine to curve along the bulwarks. If you do boil, 1 min and see if she'll bend. Some planks reacted really well to this and bent without much fuss. What ever your do don't force it that much. holding it to your curve then use your iron to get a little more out of it. if its still not there , then soak and hit it with your planking iron. If you have to go at the same plank again don't boil it more than once. I hope this helps

Eric

[Bedford]

Have you made any progress with this Robbyn ?

 

You should find as you make a few models there will be timber left over from each, never throw this out as I am sure you would appreciate. It becomes very handy in subsequent builds.

 

For future reference there is a type of "beach" that is very flexible and although a bit dearer than most woods it is well worth it and I get it from MS as required.

 

In this instance though if you do not have a planking iron, and I have never seen the need, get it nice and hot and wet and lay it flat on a suitable surface and iron it with your domestic steam iron. Rub it over the piece once or twice then working from one end rub it forward about two inches and then back to the start and hold it down firmly as a clamp for the wood and start bending the plank, moving the iron back and forth between bending efforts. When you have a bit of bend holding in the timber move the iron over it again and keep working your way forward.

 

You will find this easier if you don't cut the timber to length first as you will have more to work with and hold on to and the process takes practice to become accurate with so cutting after bending is the best option. I start from the tightest radius end and work my way out so I need about two inches infront of the bend to allow holding the plank down under the iron.

 

Hope this makes sense.

 

Steve

[Adrieke]

what i would try is get 2 baswood strips of the same width and put the piece between them (maybe a smal bti of glue) so you end up with a 5x5 dowel

 

then soak in hot water for a bit and bend

[Shazmira]

Thanks for the suggestions everyone. Steve I tried the iron and that worked like a charm. I did not need a sharp bend, just a gentle curve like the hull so the iron did very well. I then clamped it along the bulwark like LV suggested and am leaving it there to dry over night.

Steve you are right, I won't be throwing any of the leftovers away, never know just when you might need a bit for the next builds. I wish I had the knowledge I have learned so far about wood when I first started and ordered the wood I used to double plank, I would have ordered planks in varying widths so I could spile, and add drop planks correctly, and I would have ordered spares of these other dimensions and only have to pay that shipping once.

I know before I begin my next build I will do exactly that and be much better prepared!

[DCIronfist]

Wow I may be able to use the iron we already have to bend planks? Hmm I will have to look into that one...

 

David

[rebekb]

Another type of iron that might be useful for these tasks would be a quilting iron - they have a very small triangular head (about 2" on a side), as they are designed to get into corners, and so they are much less unwieldy than a regular iron, with variabl heat and often quite cheap at craft stores.

 

Rebecca

[themadchemist]

I'm looking at this one ATM rebecca. One of the other SF builders recommended it.

http://www.amazon.com/Hobbico-Veneer-Edge-Banding-Iron/dp/B000X4PWTM

[DCIronfist]

Would a curling iron work as well?

[Bedford]

I have no idea how hot a curling iron gets but I would imagine not very.

From the look of your profile pic you wouldn't have any other use for one though

[themadchemist]

Yes and soldering irons are also used by some but the flat iron is better for laterally bending the plank. There's a really good video posted somewhere on MSW where a 0.5mm plank it bend laterally better then 30-40 degrees with a clothes iron. Cant remember where though. Anyone else remember this?

[Bedford]

Glad it worked Robbyn.

 

 

I mentioned "flexible beach" that's what they call it at MS here in Aus. Next time you order timber get some, probably about 5mm x 1.5mm, sorry, you guys who ditched imperial rule centuries ago but still keep imperial measurements will have to convert that yourselves 

 

These are pics of my first model tall ship "Schooner for Port Jackson" from the supplier I mentioned above. The pics are not great because she is behind glass but if you look between the lanyards or ropes that attach the shroud lines to the hull you will see a piece of timber on the bulwalk bent down to follow a step in the sides. This is flexible beach and I bent it with the domestic iron by just soaking it in warm water for about 10 minutes then placing it flat on the table with the iron on it, back and forth a little with the iron then just hold it down with the iron and bend the plank upward around the edge of the sole plate of the iron, move the iron a little and bend some more etc to get the appropriate radius. It was so easy to bend and work with. Like I said, first ship, first real tight wood bend and dead easy, first go was perfect. This is excellent timber for bending. Keep it seperate from any other beach you have though because it looks the same.

 

Edited April 2, 2013 by Bedford

[rebekb]

I'm looking at this one ATM rebecca. One of the other SF builders recommended it.

http://www.amazon.com/Hobbico-Veneer-Edge-Banding-Iron/dp/B000X4PWTM

 

That looks useful alchemist - it's very close to what a quilting iron looks like!

[Shazmira]

DC, yes a curling iron works great for bending the strips that go on the hull. Will not work to laterally bend, at least not the thickness I was bending. I used steam from a kettle on the stove to bend most of my planking strips steaming the strip while shaping it and clipping it around a bowl that gave me the proper curve for my hull planks. That worked quite well, but when I was doing the second planking with the really thin veneers the curling iron worked like a charm!

 

Here is a link to the quilting iron...looks nice and small and would work well on ships http://www.wishuponaquilt.com/cgi-bin/Store/store.cgi?&product=Notions&productid=mci900&tracking2=zon

[robert1965]

Hello Robbyn,

 

I've done it this way.

 

I placed the wood for 2 hours in hot water, then I bent the wood on the table. see picture.

 

 

then heat up the soldering iron.

 

 

After everything is dry you can fit it on the ship.

 

 

It has worked well with me, you must only slowly bending the wood or else it  breaks.

 

 

 

[Shazmira]

Thanks Robert. I have decided that much of my problem is my impatience! When I started I was thinking a 10 min soak would be enough lol