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About Mahuna

  • Birthday March 14

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    Sun Lakes, AZ
  • Interests
    Cycling, Bird Carving

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  1. Rich - try using a small syringe and needle to get the alcohol into the glued areas. Soak it well, then try to loosen it while it's still wet.
  2. Thanks Michael - having good reference material really pays off. Thanks Druxey - it has been a good learning experience for me also, having never done this type of work before. I've learned a lot of the different techniques from watching EdT's work.
  3. Thanks Mark. Each stay had to be reset several times to get the tension right. The use of 'simulated shackles' really helped out in doing this. I could see if the chain was too tight, or too loose, before tightening the 'shackle' wire, and this allowed me to put another wire through a different link in the chain while the original wire was still in place. Thanks Calhoun! I've been watching you moving through the log via all of your 'likes' - welcome aboard. Having seen Kathryn up close a couple of times, having lots of photos of her, some friends who know a lot about her, and of course the wonderful HAER drawings - all of this has helped me in trying to stay true to her appearance. I know I won't have these advantages for my next model, but this has been a great experience for me so far.
  4. Bummer, Rich. Try starting the holes with a very small drill and work your way up to the final size.
  5. Part 76 –Bowsprit Stays Kathryn has seven stays associated with the bowsprit. There are four Jack Stays, 2 on the port side and 2 on starboard. These stays, made of chain, are connected to the port and starboard lugs on the bowsprit band and by turnbuckles to ringbolts at the railing and the wales. The JIB Stay is a chain attached to the upper bracket on the outer stem, and the chain is connected to a steel cable by a turnbuckle. The cable runs through a hole at the end of the bowsprit up to the mast hounds. The Bob Stay is the lowest stay, is made of chain and is attached to the lower bracket at the outer stem. It is connected by a turnbuckle to the lower lug on the bowsprit band. The Head Stay is a steel cable connected by a turnbuckle to the upper lug on the bowsprit band and to a shackle at the mast top. I was able to find silver chain at Arrow Hobby. https://ppw-aline.com/collections/tie-down-chain The smallest silver chain is 27 links per inch, which worked for the Jack Stays, and the larger chain used for the Bob Stay and Jib Stay is 15 links per inch. The Jack Stays were installed first. Installation began by installing the required ringbolts and painting them to match the hull. Shackles for the stays were simulated by tying nichrome wire to the connection points. Nichrome wire has a silver color which blended well with the chains and turnbuckles. A loop of 26 gauge nichrome wire was passed through the end links of two lengths of 27 link per inch silver chain and then tied in a knot which was located behind the lug on the bowsprit band. When the loose ends were clipped off the wire loop simulated a shackle. Piano wire was used for the connecting pins because of its strength. The turnbuckles for the Jack Stays were attached to the ringbolts by short lengths of .014 steel piano wire run through one hole of the turnbuckle’s clevis, through the ringbolt, and then through the other hole in the clevis. The piano wire was epoxied in place and then clipped off when dry. A short length of piano wire was glued into the holes at the other end of the clevis prior to the turnbuckles being mounted. A loop of 28 gauge nichrome wire was used to form a shackle tying the Jack Stay chain to the turnbuckle around that short length of piano wire. The Jib Stay and Bob Stay both have the chains attached to a ring on a turnbuckle. The turnbuckles used for these stays were initially made with only one ring each. The second ring was formed of nichrome wire which had first been run through the end link of the associated chain, as shown in the following sequence. These ring/chain combinations were then epoxied into the turnbuckles. The Jib Stay was installed next. The first step was connecting the steel cable to the turnbuckle. The ‘steel cable’ was made from .014” bare leader wire from AFW fishing. https://afwfishing.com/afw_products/Surfstrand_Micro_Ultra_Leader_Wire_Uncoated_1x19.asp Crimping tubes were made by cutting small pieces off a 1/16” aluminum tube. The wire was passed through two of the crimping tubes, then through the open ring of the turnbuckle, and then back through the crimping tubes. It was then crimped and trimmed. The wire was passed through the hole in the bowsprit, and then the chain on the other end of the turnbuckle was ‘shackled’ to the upper bracket on the outer stem using 28 gauge nichrome wire. The Bob Stay turnbuckle was ‘shackled’ to the lower lug on the bowsprit band, and then was ‘shackled’ to the lower bracket on the outer stem. This completes the bowsprit stays for now – the Head Stay will be installed at a much later time in the rigging sequence. I’m pleased that these stays match up pretty well to the photos of Kathryn’s bowsprit area. This will probably be my last post for a while. I’ll be spending time experimenting with the use of silkspan to make furled sails. I’ll also be spending some time planning the rigging sequence. We’ll also be taking a short vacation to get out of Arizona’s heat – unfortunately that little trip is still over a week away, and our forecast for the next few days is VERY HOT – up to 117F!! Cheers everyone!
  6. Hi Michael - yeah, I've thought about doing this. But like you, I tend to move around the shop a lot and would probably cause more problems than I solved with the smock. Carl, I told you a million times not to exaggerate!
  7. Thanks Michael. Thanks Carl. I can't imagine how I could make these turnbuckles as a single piece! One of the problems I have is losing these small pieces to the floor, never to be seen again. I generally make extras for that reason.
  8. Thanks Mark - I'm pretty happy with the way the turnbuckles worked out. Some of them are fairly delicate, though.
  9. Thanks Rich. Yeah, thank heaven for the Optivisor!
  10. Part 75 –Turnbuckles cont’d Kathryn’s shrouds are steel cable, and are held in place by large turnbuckles rather than deadeyes, as in the following photo. The connectivity consists of large loops at each end of the turnbuckle, connected by shackles to the chainplate at the bottom and to the cable at top. These large loops are made of flat stock which turns into a round rod so that it can be threaded to the turnbuckle. My first thought was that this configuration would be too complicated to model, so I made some clevises on posts for connectivity to the turnbuckles. The small collar on the post is to provide a more secure fit to the turnbuckle. The turnbuckle bodies were made from 3/32” square stock which had a 1/16” round inside diameter. Since the posts needed to be smaller (1/32” rod) I drilled a 1/32” hole through a 1/16” rod and parted off sufficient collars for the 8 rods needed for the turnbuckles. I wasn’t happy with the approach of using a clevis instead of the actual arrangement, so I decided to try to duplicate the rig as it exists in real life. For the large loops, I used 1/32” x 1/64” brass strips. They were annealed and bent around a piece of 1/16” rod that would provide a consistently sized opening. I was careful not to close the bend into too tight of a shape. The workpiece was then clamped for soldering. The shaft of the loop was then made into a 1/32” round shape by grinding and filing, so that the collar mentioned above would fit over the shaft. The shackles were made from 26 gauge copper wire. A jig was used to ensure that the bend of each shackle was as identical as possible. The copper wire was laid across the jig in the small groove that was cut perpendicular to the round cavity, and a 1/16” steel punch was used to push the wire down into the jig for the circular body of the shackle. The ends of the shackle were cut to length, and then flattened by squeezing each end in the hinge of a flat pliers. Holes were drilled into the shackles for .019” pins, and the ends of the shackles were rounded by filing. The turnbuckle and shackles were primed and then painted the bare metal color. In all, Kathryn has 11 turnbuckles in her rigging, shown in the following photo. I have ordered some bare stainless steel fishing line in the appropriate sizes for Kathryn’s cables. In the meantime, I plan to install some of the chains. The chains and turnbuckles for the Jack Stays will be installed first. That will be the subject of the next post. Thanks everyone!
  11. Part 74 –Turnbuckles - revisited In Part 44, back in December, I had posted some work on trying to make turnbuckles. At the time I was trying to thread one end so that there would be working turnbuckles on the model. I was able to get a working turnbuckle from wood, but I wasn’t happy with the result. Now that we’re getting very close to rigging the model, it’s time to get serious about putting some turnbuckles together. Kathryn has 7 turnbuckles at the bow, supporting things like the Jib Stay, Head Stay, Bob Stay, and 4 Jack Stays. The following photo shows most of these turnbuckles. All of these turnbuckles seem to be of a uniform width. The turnbuckles for the Jack Stays appear to be longer than the others. Square brass tube was used to make the turnbuckle bodies. 1/16” square tube was used for the turnbuckles at the bow, and 3/32” square tube was used to make the four larger turnbuckles that support the shrouds. The first step, after cutting an appropriate length of tube using the micro saw, was to round both ends of the piece on the lathe – removing about .015 of material. The workpiece was then held in a vise. A piece of thin rod was run through the workpiece as an aid in holding and positioning it in the vise. Two of the sides (facing each other) were removed by filing. Most of the turnbuckle bodies were made during one session. The 2 turnbuckles for the Jack Stays shown in the first photo have different connectivity components. One seems to have clevises at both ends, while the other has rings with shackles attached. I decided to make them all the same way, using clevises for the connecting ends. The 3/32” square tube was used for making the clevises. A hole was drilled through the top side of the tube to take the connecting rod. The tube was then repositioned in the vise so that a hole could be drilled through both sides of the tube for the clevis pin. The tube was then turned in the vise so that the last undrilled side was exposed, and this side was milled off using a 1/16” end mill. The clevis was then parted off using the micro saw. The clevis was soldered to a connecting rod, and the rod was soldered into the turnbuckle body. After the clevis and rod for the other end of the turnbuckle was assembled and installed, the turnbuckle was primed and painted the bare metal color previously used for the yawl boat davits. A total of four of these turnbuckles will be required. The one shown was actually a first prototype and will be used along with the other three that still need to be assembled. The other turnbuckles at the bow will be similar in size, but the connections will be somewhat different. The most difficult turnbuckles to be made are the four large turnbuckles that support the shrouds. This will be subject of the next post – coming soon. Cheers everyone.
  12. Glad to see you back online Patrick. You've made some really good progress - she's looking super!
  13. Good start Maury - I'm signing up to follow along. Your C. Chase build is very similar to what I'll be doing on the J T Leonard after my current build of the skipjack Kathryn is finished.

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