James H

I'm sure someone already did the heavy lifting before the kit was released 😉😝 I did try to make you a manual that showed everything in the smallest detail.

Blame me! 🤣

She's looking beautiful, and your work is always so clean.

Glenn, that roof looks like MDF. That is supposed to be pear. Have you used the right parts? The pear parts are engraved with the bevel shape for roof. If didn't need to be manually marked. If you still have the pear, remove material from the rear edge so the curve matches your gallery, then bevel to the curve to create the inward sloping roof. Parts 481 and 482:

I can see you cut it down to match the flow of the gallery, but where the gallery reaches roof height, the roof is bevelled inwards at an angle. For example, if you'd removed the excess material from the straight edge, the curved shape would have matched your gallery curve, the part would then have been bevelled so the roof leaned inwards from the gallery. Look at the shape of my roof angle at the front. It's not vertical. That shows the bevel where the roof leans inwards.

Hi Glenn, You needed to shape/bevel those roof sections before fitting, to allow the upper decorative trim to fit, plus you have that PE shingle to fit too. Test the fit of those parts before proceeding further.

I use a Dremel Pro and have loads of attachments for it. Can't fault it whatsoever.

Ok, been taking a good look through this and that problem you're encountering. When I built my prototype, I originally set the stern counter too low, meaning the stern fascia was too low to the bulwarks. You'll see my correction in plan where I said about elevating 2mm to the lower side of slot. That measurement is correct. Take a look at this picture from my own build: Where I made my mistake was not making the top corner of the counter sit at the point on the side pattern where the angle changes....adjacent to the bottom of that slot you see nearest to us in the pic. It's literally only 2mm. Elevating to there will fix the issue......but. ...in your pic, the counter isn't in the correct position with its angle and doesnt sit in relation to the end of the side patterns. You had to put a filler piece in here to compensate, dropping that lower edge to create the gap you have. If everything isn't looked at stages ahead to check for any effect of impact, then you can't retroactively push yourself to the point where everything will align. To be honest, I'd rip that stern counter off and start that area again so the part is sitting properly into that curve. I can't see any way around the other alignment problems you'll face further down the line with rails etc.

Nail varnish remover is just acetone with lanolin in to stop skin from drying out. Sorry....the science background in me coming out again.

Providing you build to plan, yes 😉

Yes, give or take a couple of millimetres, by Sphinx is around the stated size.

She's looking real nice!

They sure do. The main wale is quite proud, and there is a thinner section that runs above this.

That just looks really nice. 😁

I use spots of Gorilla CA gel on all my second planking 😉

You got it. All char removal is a good indicator that all is faired to the same level for inner bulwarks. I just used a piece of 110 grit paper, doubled over for stiffness but allowing to form into bulwark side shape.

So pleased to see this take shape like it is. 👍

Make sure that stern counter upper edge is roughly along the bottom edge of the stern timber slots. You can see the amendment in the manual. If you set it too low, the rails around the stern won't match those on the galleries and the stern fascia will be too low with the top of the bulwarks towards the top of the fascia.

Just sit tight and follow this topic. When there's any movement, this is where it will be posted.

I think with Sphinx taking a full day to produce, adding more to it wouldn't be beneficial (especially in cost to the customer), plus it's sort of reckoned that if you are building at Sphinx level, that you can work out any rough bevelling quite easily. The manual does show that bevelling, so the builder isn't really in the dark, so to speak. Ok, dimensions: Erycina, with masts and bowsprit is 525mm long x 379mm high Nisha, with masts etc. is 387mm long x 311mm high

Work on this so far had been about 3hrs, and that includes my photos (not editing though). I think the build will be quicker than the others, but there is a little more rig, including those minimal shrouds and rats.

Straight after Erycina, I made a start on Nisha. Both models are being built in tandem for a release at the same time. Both kits come with an MDF build cradle and an acrylic display stand that has an engraved plate. Fewer bulkheads in Nisha than Erycina. Again, engraved bevel lines are supplied on those that need them. These are now bevelled with a Dremel at 10,000RPM The dainty little keel has bulkhead numbers engraved adjacent to each slot, making it a little harder to get these wrong. At this stage, everything is fitted dry, with no glue. The lower deck is now slotted into position. Engravings help show you the orientation of this. Bearding fillers are also included which can be pre-bevelled and then pinned into place with MDF tabs. This is a little different to Erycina in that the two bulkhead infill pieces are bolstered on both sides with an MDF plate that is pinned into position either side of those bulkheads. This creates a nice, solid construction. Both longitudinal deck beams are now slotted into position, followed by the stern timbers that are marked to show their relative positions. Diluted Titebond is now brushed into all the joints and the frame set aside to dry for a couple of hours. Lastly (for this update), the ply deck is fitted and glued. This fits into the slots in each bulkhead ear, and lies perfectly flat with no other fettling required. More next time

Work on this is progressing swiftly, especially when you consider that I've not got to the same stage with Nisha over the last couple of days. All photos are from the manual, but here I've done no re-cropping, but simply resized the originals for MSW. Both of these new fishers are designed to be very simple to build and there's actually less planking involved than the Zulu and Fifie. Construction is very much the same, with similar stern timbers as seen on Sphinx. In fact, these also have the little safety gates that strengthen the parts until you can safely remove them. Just a small selection of the SIXTEEN bulkheads on this little model. You can see that bevelling lines are also included. A Dremel is used to make short work of these. In fact, it took only 30 mins to bevel all parts on this model. The keel. Note that all slots are numbered too, so you really shouldn't get the positions of individual bulkheads wrong! All bulkheads are dry-slotted into the keel. The bearding parts are now bevelled and fitted into position. These are also pinned into the keel to ensure the correct positions. The lower deck serves the purpose of simply holding the bulkheads in position and also for masts etc. that will plug down into it. This is now slotted into position, again without glue. Note that engravings show which is the front and TOP. Four bulkheads into which the lower deck were slotted, are now filled in with these pieces that strengthen the overall skeleton. These are glued into place. The longitudinal deck beams are now dry-slotted into place. Builders of the other VM kits will be familiar with this approach. Midship bulkhead doublers are now glued to either side of bulkhead #9. The stern timbers are now slotted into position, 3 on either side of keel, and these are identified with INNER, MIDDLE and OUTER engravings. The hull is now turned over and a slightly diluted Titebond is brushed into the joints. As this model has so many interlocking joints, this is a good approach to take so you know glue won't be setting are you're working through the hull. It also gives you some time to make sure everything is to your liking before committing to glue. The hull is now left a couple of hours for the glue to penetrate and set. The ply deck is now fitted, engraved face upwards. This just needs to bend slightly to lock into the bulkhead ears at one side before snapping down into the other side. No amendment is needed at all here and the deck lies perfectly flat over all bulkheads. Not even any sanding of the sheer is needed before fitting! Small clamps are used to hold the rear deck down onto the stern timbers. Next up is fairing and planking. More soon....

I'll try to explain this one again 🥸 In 2013, we were paying our host to backup for us, but they didn't even have the secondary drive fitted, let alone back things up. Our current system does have a drive fitted and I have personally scheduled all backups. These are created every other day so the most we will ever lose is a day or so. No more need to back up this log than any other on MSW 😉 Ok....back to the log.

Despite having the HZ ones here, I simply never use fancy tools for holding hulls etc. Never found the need, ultimately.