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TBlack

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Everything posted by TBlack

  1. TBlack
    I've gotten the balusters installed: Before I put the rail on them I thought i would install the cap rail. I can't use the ones provided in the kit, because they are not the right shape. I need sheet stock 1/32" thick - not in my inventory. Which to buy pear or cherry. Pear is $12.50 per sheet and cherry is $5.00. I'll let you guess which one I've bought. While waiting for its arrival, I started working on deck furniture, specifically gratings. The metal etched gratings provided in the kit have openings that are 3"+ which I thought rather large, so I made my own: My openings are 2" which is more to my liking. Tom
  2. TBlack
    I've also found the slitting saw most helpful, especially if you have the DRO capability. Tom
  3. TBlack
    The other interesting thing is the side table under the forward windows. Apparently the top comes off to reveal various piloting controls. Tom
  4. TBlack
    So, the Cangarda was restored in California, is currently in Maine, being sold by an English broker, and priced in Euros. Quite an international achievement! Tom
  5. TBlack
    Keith have you seen this? https://www.yachtworld.com/yacht/1901-custom-pusey-$-jones-steam-yacht-8030108/ Tom
  6. TBlack
    Keith, You've got a good idea. I'll need around 10-12. They are 11 mm high. Model Expo has what I need, I think. Anyway, ordered a bunch of their stanchions. Thanks TB
  7. TBlack
    Keith, I tried that approach with a razor blade attached to the tool post of my unimat lathe. The height is wrong and the blade flexes too much. Got any suggestions?
  8. TBlack
    Thanks to you all for the support and the "likes". The box at the top right says there are 27 folks looking over my shoulder. I don't want to disappoint. I have always maintained that there are 2 kinds of logs: those that show what the builder did, and those that show what the builder did and how it was done, sorta like what Keith Aug does for us. I think this log has fallen into the former category, and in an attempt to up-grade let me describe my method for building ladders: I use my mill (equipped with a DRO) and that the ladder will be the hypotenuse of a 30-60-90 triangle. I set the vice at 60 degrees to the X axis (such that the vice is pointed NE/SW) and, using a 1/32" end mill set to cut 1 mm deep inscribe (in this case) 4 channels in the stile held in the vice, moving the work along the X axis 4.33 mm each time. Flip the vice around so it's now pointing NW/SE and repeat the 4 cuts again at 4.33 mm separation. Turns out that the pear used to plank the hull is just the right size for the treads. I'm onto balusters now. I have no dowels small enough to suit so I take what I have and make it smaller. Again using the mill and a rotary table: center the rotary table under the spindle. The offset the table by the desired radius and turn the crank. That's the easy part straight round dowels are boring so to add a some feature I put the dowel in the lathe and tried filing in some profile: They are close in appearance. Maybe I'll make twice the required amount and pick the best. Any suggestions? Tom
  9. TBlack
    Scotty, Why not just make a couple of wedges glued to the sides of the mast? Takes 10 minutes. TB
  10. TBlack
    Brian, A 0.5 mm drill is, what, about a #75 or 76? You can get carbide or steel bits. The carbide will be sharper, but more brittle and break easily. The steel are more flexible and forgiving. The latter are available in packs of 5 from Micro-Mark for not too much (certainly not $300, that's ridiculous). Drill Bit City sells the carbide bits, again in sets of 5. I use a pin vice for what you are trying to do. Hope that's helpful. Tom
  11. TBlack
    Scotty, You got it. The mast actually flairs out at that point, creating a shoulder for the stays to rest on. You can see the continuation of the shoulder indicated by the horizontal line on the mast to the left of where your 25 mm dimension stops. At this point, if you glue a couple of wedge shaped pieces on either side of the mast, you should be good to go. Tom
  12. TBlack
    OK. Two ladders, now two balustrades to finish it off. These will be hand made with some stylist form, so may not exactly match. We'll see.
  13. TBlack
    Chuck, You once mentioned that the carved pieces will be available in 1:48 scale as well as your 3/8 scale. Is that still the case? Tom
  14. TBlack
    I've made a ladder. Now my question is, should there be another one on the other side of the companionway to keep the symmetry?
  15. TBlack
    OK, 5 foot door in. Ladder to Q-deck next
  16. TBlack
    John, You got a nice finish on those ventilators; Kudos! Tom
  17. TBlack
    Mark, I had envisioned that below the quarterdeck would look like this: The center area of the bulkhead is where the ladder and companionway will go. Im going to put the companionway in the center (I've already cut the pieces for that), and the ladder will go to the side. Tom
  18. TBlack
    I can't use Speedwell as an example for ladder placement. Not enough room, so the center area will have to suffice for a ladder and a companionway. So that means I only have to make one ladder, but I'll have to make two railings. Tom
  19. TBlack
    Mark, Not a race, right! But it is a question of quality and trying to measure up. Besides, according to NRG standards, this model shouldn't be built (being fictional), so I wonder if my membership will be revoked! With Jim's endorsement I'll go with a centered companionway. Notice Speedwell"s arrangement here: Notice the ladders come down right at the cannon placement. I want to do the same thing.
  20. TBlack
    Next up is to make this bulkhead with companionway. My only references to companionways are Speedwell and Fair American. Speedwell seems a little too fancy for this craft. If anyone has an idea, let me know. I'm thinking that the companionway goes in the center which allows for two cabins on either side (Maturin, 1st Lieutenant) before the captain's cabin at the rear. I want to thank so many of you who are following this modest attempt. As I look at what you are accomplishing, I'm in awe and hope I can keep up. Tom
  21. TBlack
    I've got a couple of thoughts. they depend on whether you are going to paint over the affected area. If you're not painting, try collecting some sawdust from the wood in that area and mixing it with PVA glue and applying it to the area needing filling. If the area is going to be painted, then use a spackling compound to fill the gaps. Tom
  22. TBlack
    OK, now I've gotten the red toned down, and applied the below waterline paint. I've elected not to use the copper plates that come with the kit. There is no reference in the book about the bottom of the ship, and because she is described as being a plain and lumbering craft, I thought copper would be too fancy for her. Besides, it saves a lot of time to paint.
  23. TBlack
    The mizzen has no shrouds? Hard to believe. Tom
  24. TBlack
    Yes and you gotta be in shape to do it! Tom
  25. TBlack
    Yes, the cowls and trunks are too small on the model. Away with them! Besides in reality, there are 2 small ones up front, not one in the middle. Otherwise, you've got a beautiful looking model. TB

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