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TBlack

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Everything posted by TBlack

  1. Bob, Nicely done. I especially like your approach to the windows with the tape, although I would be severely challenged to get the tape in the right place and lined up properly. Looking great so far! Tom
  2. Pete, Nice pictures that capture the graceful, classic lines of this beauty! You're doing her great justice. Tom
  3. Andy, Actually there is a cowl vent, just barely visible. Back in entry 30, page 2, of this log we had a brief discussion of it. At the time I thought it was a smoke stack for a stove in the salon. Since then, I've discovered this photo which makes me think it is a cowl vent which is what you all were trying to convince me of in the first place. It's just visible behind the pilot house roof. Tom
  4. Thanks guys, for the validation. Damn this is a smart group! Tom PS. I'm just looking at the time Andy posted his response. Andy, do you ever get to sleep?
  5. While I wait for the dentils to arrive from CA, I'm turning my attention to the stack. The photo shows the base that I shaped on the lathe. I have a 5/8" brass tube that should serve nicely as a stack. I'm assuming that the holes you see in the photo at the base are, in fact, holes and not rivets. Tom
  6. Pete, You're out of the starting blocks! I notice that you have the keel set at an angle to the building board. I guess that's to account for the drag? And do the instructions tell you to do that, or is that your initiative? Nice little boat, BTW. Tom
  7. Patrick, I'll certainly join the chorus; beautiful work! Could you share with us how you made the winches? There are quite a few of them, all beautifully turned out. Tom
  8. Okay, okay, you guys, I get it, sheesh! A practice run with the saw shows a kerf of .5 mm which should be just fine. But yesterday I sprung for Andy's dentils. So I'm committed, and we're going to wait to see how they look first. Tom
  9. Andy, Thanks for doing the math. I'll give them a try. Tom
  10. Andy, thanks for the link. I did check it out and it's a little hard to tell the dimensions of the "blocks" from the picture. I'm thinking of going with John's suggestion which is doable. The problem I'm facing is the size of the cuts. If you look at the above picture, the cuts are about as wide as the mullion in the pilot house window. That translates to a cut of .5 mm on the model. I have a Preac saw, a Rolls Royce in its day, but Charlie Files, the creator, died a few years back and that was the end of the company and its supplies. I own a blade for the saw with a .020 thickness, that's going to be on the wide side. Charlie used to make available a blade with a .010 thickness, and I haven't been able to find anyone who sells the thinner blade since Charlie's passing. So I'm stuck with the .020 cut. So there it is. Crackers, I'm no good at lettering. I thought what I would do is just make a copy of the sign on my computer printer to size, cut it out and paste it onto a backing. Tom
  11. Thanks guys for the support and encouragement. My next task is to come up with a moulding around the top of the pilot house (not the one around the edge of the roof; that's easy) that looks like the original:
  12. Boat deck secured and support stanchions in place. Some more photos: In the bow shot you'll notice the second stanchion on the right needs fixing. My pipe fitters took care of that this morning as you can see in the subsequent photos. Also, the chief of the boat is in charge of painting that panel on the pilot house door. Tom
  13. I'll try to overwhelm you a little more by adding my congratulations on the finish of a job beautifully done. When's the launching party? And are we all invited? Tom
  14. Ronkh, "Scale", great that you bring it up. Scale is a little indeterminate in this model. Something I tried to address before I got started on this project; unfortunately, the normal tip-offs to scale: the doors, the deck furniture, the overall length aren't consistent with any scale. So at the end of the day I just went with boats that seemed to fit. I hope this doesn't destroy your sense of my abilities, or lack thereof. Tom
  15. A little more progress. I've installed the stays and am on to the shrouds. Mighty small scale! I added a couple of boats that were not on the model originally, but I thought they were needed. Tom
  16. Bob. The hawse holes along the side have a lip around them. It looks like they're made of wood; is that the case? Also, do you make an inside lip and an outside lip separately or do you have a method of doing it as one unit? As you recall, I, too, had several hawse holes to deal with in Vinalhaven. I finally made them out of styrene to maintain strength. Tom
  17. I recently bought deadeyes from CornwallModelsBoats.com in England. They don't make them, but they have a large supply. The shipping took just a week to get here. Tom
  18. Michael, I don't actually own the book. I found it in our local library. It has to go back tomorrow, but I think I've gotten adequate notes to get me through the standing rigging. I'll get it out again when I need to do the running stuff. Tom
  19. Brian, the ambitious part is the scale; it's smaller than 1:96. At my age, I can't work on her too long before my hands start to shake. Fortunately, I didn't commit myself to a time schedule on this project, but I don't get paid until I deliver the goods! Crackers, I've decided to employ the Cutty Sark kind of shroud set-up (no channels). My source, Harold Underhill, in his Masting and Rigging the Clipper Ship, plate 21, page 118 shows that wooden ships did indeed have deadeyes set up on the main rail; they're supported by chainplates which I've omitted. Furthermore, I'm trying not to alter the original model too much beyond what it was. I'm making a few small corrections here and there (I'll be adding ship's boats to the top of the house), but it's still folk art. Tom
  20. A little more progress. Got the bowsprit/jib boom area rigged and all stays forward. Moving aft. I opted to rig the futtock shrouds and top mast srouds while the mast was off the boat, thinking it would be easier. I've never tried that before, and I don't think it will interfere with the shrouds below. Tom
  21. Andy, I agree with you, the stave doesn't look overly large; it'll pass. You're getting pretty good at this serving stuff; very neatly done, cap't.! Tom
  22. Popeye, Isn't it great when the admiralty has an appreciation for our art/craft/science/hobby? I have a brother who is an architect and who tried to give me a "simple" CAD program to use. The manual is 1.5" thick!.....too much information! The program resides on my computer gathering dust (pixels?). Tom
  23. Thanks, Michael, the hard part of the mouldings is cutting the razor blade properly. If everything lines up, it's a miracle. If I knew how to use a CAD program, it might have been simpler. Tom
  24. Thanks, guys, for the support. I'm getting there! Tom
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