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fnkershner

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Everything posted by fnkershner

  1. Jake - Definitely don't spend money on the practicum we can help you. Let me do some digging or maybe someone else can help. It has been at least 3 yrs since I finished my Bluenose.
  2. Great to see another Bluenose. I think we are all too critical of ourselves. You are doing Great. I will do some digging and see what I have of early photos to share with you.
  3. I know it is too late but I think the best solution is for the companion way to run for and aft. I believe this was common on sailing ships if only to help the guy going up or down when the ship was heeled over. I think you will find that most companion ways were on the center line and running for & aft. Reversing wont help because the stack is in the way above decks. Still it looks nice and I think I may be inspired to do something similar.
  4. Lou - What I meant is could you give me a close up of your bow planking below the wale? Also as to depth did you cut the false keel or was that part of the kit? in your Pic it looks like you made room for a box under the hatch.
  5. So Mark - Just an observation. but I doubt the companionway would go directly down to the stove. Several reasons for this. 1. Safety - you could very easily land on the cook stove on your way down. 2. Conversation of heat. On cold days at sea you want that heat to be retained not go up the stairs.
  6. A Little Jealous - Quite an understatement there. Lou Very nice work! I too an curious about your rudder box. Also I am curious about your Bow planking below the wale. Keep the pictures coming! I see you plan to have some depth in the hold. Tell us about that too.
  7. Mark - Thanks! Those pictures are exactly what I needed. Your stern came out very nice. How many stealers did it take on the 2nd planking? I like the contrasting Colors.
  8. Let me explain - From what I can see in your pictures I am very impressed with your Hull planking. As you can see from my log this has been a challenge for me. I have already sanded off the first try of my 2nd layer of planking. I am currently about 1/2 way thru my 2nd try. Mentally I am looking ahead to the final planking of the stern. So I am interested in how you handled the corners of the planking on both the starboard and port outside planking. It looks like you did a wonderful job of bringing the ends together without any unsightly rough ends. Also you mention the changes to the rigging and the added number of belaying pins. Is this based on Crothers as well? During spare moments I have been thinking about my rigging plan. so I am interested in your thoughts here as well. I should also mentioned that I copied your idea of calling her the Lady Anne. Mine will be the Lady Caroline. The admiral is pleased and has added her input on the design.
  9. Augie - I am afraid I am the only naysayer in this group. From what I see there is no name plate with your creation. She certainly needs to be identified! May I suggest a small block of wood similar to the case with a 45 degree face. the brass pate should have the ship name the artist's name (that would be you!) and the creation date, she will sail for a long time into the future and you will want anyone who sees her to have this info. PS the case is a nice design for the location and complements the model.
  10. Jim - I am in tears with Laughter. As mentioned elsewhere I am the president of our local modeling club. Every year in Seattle there is a Wooden Boat festival. for many years our club has participated. We have set up displays of our ships etc. Often we would set up a table and have a modeler there to answer questions while he worked on his latest project. One time this boy of 9 years old stopped by he was keenly interested in the work being done. I won't bore you with the details but he became the youngest member of our club. During subsequent years at the Festival he would join me at the table working on a project. It was embarrassing how much better his hull planking was than mine. So you never know.
  11. Mark I am most interested in your plans for the Cabin. First off what year are you aiming for? We both know that there was no such thing as a Baltimore Clipper in 1847. Much more likely would have been 1790s thru the end of the war of 1812. So the cabin doesn't fit the scale or the design from that period. Also I haven't found any ship from that time with brass bars on the skylights. I particularly like the design of your hatches. What do you plan for the shot garlands? I also wonder about that forward Hatch in front of the foremast. Is it really useful? Where do you plan for the anchor lines to go? Now that I look at your planking I wish I had used contrasting wood for the Bulwarks. Can you give me a close up picture of your final planking at a rear corner. I am trying to get that to look better. Can you give me the dimensions of your hatches? Did you use the gratings from the kit?
  12. Mark! I am so glad to see this log. You know it is all your fault! I have been struggling with the Harvey for many years. On the one hand she is a beautiful model, on the other she is as you say quite inaccurate. When I saw this log on MSW one you inspired me to do more digging and make some changes. I look forward to more creative ideas from you. Especially the cabin. And you have done a very nice job.
  13. Kester - I take it you are back! This is wonderful. I am very impressed with the clinker planking and how well they line up on that bow shot.
  14. Wow another great build. but I have to agree with everyone else please more pictures!
  15. I have a similar R/C Sailboat and it is only 2 channels. It is not that hard to build. Carlos is correct that you will need a High torque winch for the sail control. a good HiTec can be found for about $55. I can show you how to set it up without using a drum. I also have some spare parts that I might be able to share for a small price.
  16. Richard - What Dirk is describing is what I call CA welding. As several people have mentioned here there are inherent issues with CA on the Planking. So like Dirk I use TiteBond or Elmers almost everywhere. Yes these are the trade names for PVA. They work well on wood. And they don't set too fast. What seems to work for me is to use PVA with tiny drops in strategic locations of CA. Ie when I am planking I will run a bead of PVA the full length and just a small drop of CA at critical locations. The CA sets in 10 seconds and holds the plank in place while the PVA sets up. Also I use the medium CA. The thin is too runny for me and sets way too fast. Have you tried just breathing on CA? the moisture in your breath will accelerate the setting. Same with wet planks so be careful there too.
  17. I want to thank everyone for the birthday wishes. I have been away on a business trip to Chicago and just returned. I had a wonderful weekend playing tourist. but now its time to get back to modeling!
  18. Pass the popcorn! I will be interested in a comparison to the MS Whaleboat. By the way who has the beer?
  19. Seems to me it wasn't so long ago we were wondering if this log would hit 80 pages? Augie you are such a social butterfly! Its good to have you back. but I doubt your log missed you. It seems to have a life of its own.
  20. Congrats! So I should plan on more like 700 hours to build mine? Very nice work!
  21. Gentlemen - If you have the opportunity to go to the Exhibit at Preble Hall you will find several cabinets like this one that are over 100 yrs old! They are quite beautiful.
  22. Wow Dirk where did you find that? I always thought it was seized just like Rod has done.
  23. I am glad to hear you are getting better. We want you healthy when you return so you can finish the model.
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