Blue Ensign

Post Forty-six
 
Flag staffs and Flags.
 
Two Flag staffs are required to be made from provided dowel.
The staffs have decorative features in the form of wooden balls, but there is scope to elaborate the decoration if desired.

2907
I added extra balls and enhanced the Truck slightly.
 
One small puzzlement I had was that with the staffs cut to the plan dimensions the Fore-staff was the same height as the Main-staff when fitted.
Completed Broadside photos seemed to indicate that the Fore-staff was slightly shorter.
 
Chuck has provided two flags to adorn the Barge, The Royal Standard and the Union Flag.
 
The Royal Standard is of the period 1704-1714, and the Union Flag 1606 – 1800.
Both are produced using the print on tissue paper method, in my opinion by far the best medium for model boat purposes, unless those models are very large indeed.
 
For hoisting the flags, I will use a series of Ribands to secure the Flag, with the topmost ring attached to the mast truck.
 
The Royal Standard
Before I started messing with the flags I took the precaution of taking copies just in case things went pear-shaped.

2847
The copies were printed on Modelspan tissue.

2891
One of the spares was attached to a jury staff to allow me to play with folding and draping technique.
I wanted to get the feel for how the flag would perform during this stage without risking the kit provided versions.

2892
The flag was wetted down using the spray fixative and teased into shape.
 
The proper Standard was then fixed to the Flagstaff.

2914
I had a slight issue with the top of the hoist tearing away from the staff but the fixative held it in place once set.
I was after a loose drape so as not to obscure too much of the colourful design of the standard.
 
The Union Flag

2920
The kit provided Union Flag.
These are always more problematical with the tissue method because when draped the transparency allows the red cross to show thro’ the white sections giving the impression that the ink has run.

2924
This is the effect I mean and this version will not stand.
 
I couldn’t seem to get the drape I was after and was not at all happy with this result.
Nothing for it but to print off some Union Flags onto Modelspan. I used 21gsm weight.

2926
I had thought that the Union Flag was a tad large for the Foremast and would likely to cover the foremost oarsman at the bow.
I reduced the size a tad for these Mk 2 versions and added a hem to the hoist side.

2928
The Mk 2 flag attached to the staff; it has been sprayed with fixative to seal the colours.
2945(2)

2943(2)

2942(2)

2940(2)

2936(2)
The Flag staffs are not glued in place and the flags may receive a little more dressing before the final display.

In the final stages now and back to completion of the oars.
 
B.E.
23/07/21
 
 



 

Thank you Bruce, nearly there now. 🙂
 
Post Forty-seven
 
Dressing the oars.
The kit provides a stylised Dolphin design to decorate the face of the oar blades.
These are printed on paper and require close cutting before gluing to the blades.
 
I started with a No11 scalpel blade, but found that small pointed scissors proved a better means of cutting without tearing. Even so it proved quite a time consuming business.
 
I used 6mm Tamiya tape to ensure an equal placing distance from the blade tip.
 
The designs are ‘handed’ for port and starboard oars.
 
Once applied using dilute pva, the edges were painted around, and a coat of w-o-p applied to the design.
The final act is to add thin strips around the tip of the blade to represent a binding used to prevent the blade tip splitting.
I understand that Leather, tin, or perhaps copper strips were used for this purpose.
 
I decided to use copper for no other reason than I liked it but this is a Royal Barge and one can imagine the sunlight flashing off the blade tips as the oars moved with the stroke.

2952

2953(2)

2956
All work is now completed on this build which is not the same as finished.
There is a stand to prepare, and some faffing and fussing with the model before the final build photos are presented.
 
B.E.
24/07/21

BE, thank you for the very kind comments. I have the utmost respect for the crews of the worlds warships who carried out their duties in the face of explosions, inrushing water and fires. The "black gang" of the engine room were especially vulnerable with all the watertight doors closed and they had no idea what was going on topsides other than the noise. Very much a special breed.
I have a copy of "The Ship" but had forgotten the dedication. Thank you very much for reminding me. I have put it on my pile to reread. Its one of the classic great sea books. Its in my top five of those books with "The Cruel Sea" the outright best for me, and "The sea shall not have them" 
Alan

Thank you Bruce, nearly there now. 🙂
 
Post Forty-seven
 
Dressing the oars.
The kit provides a stylised Dolphin design to decorate the face of the oar blades.
These are printed on paper and require close cutting before gluing to the blades.
 
I started with a No11 scalpel blade, but found that small pointed scissors proved a better means of cutting without tearing. Even so it proved quite a time consuming business.
 
I used 6mm Tamiya tape to ensure an equal placing distance from the blade tip.
 
The designs are ‘handed’ for port and starboard oars.
 
Once applied using dilute pva, the edges were painted around, and a coat of w-o-p applied to the design.
The final act is to add thin strips around the tip of the blade to represent a binding used to prevent the blade tip splitting.
I understand that Leather, tin, or perhaps copper strips were used for this purpose.
 
I decided to use copper for no other reason than I liked it but this is a Royal Barge and one can imagine the sunlight flashing off the blade tips as the oars moved with the stroke.

2952

2953(2)

2956
All work is now completed on this build which is not the same as finished.
There is a stand to prepare, and some faffing and fussing with the model before the final build photos are presented.
 
B.E.
24/07/21

Thank you Bruce, nearly there now. 🙂
 
Post Forty-seven
 
Dressing the oars.
The kit provides a stylised Dolphin design to decorate the face of the oar blades.
These are printed on paper and require close cutting before gluing to the blades.
 
I started with a No11 scalpel blade, but found that small pointed scissors proved a better means of cutting without tearing. Even so it proved quite a time consuming business.
 
I used 6mm Tamiya tape to ensure an equal placing distance from the blade tip.
 
The designs are ‘handed’ for port and starboard oars.
 
Once applied using dilute pva, the edges were painted around, and a coat of w-o-p applied to the design.
The final act is to add thin strips around the tip of the blade to represent a binding used to prevent the blade tip splitting.
I understand that Leather, tin, or perhaps copper strips were used for this purpose.
 
I decided to use copper for no other reason than I liked it but this is a Royal Barge and one can imagine the sunlight flashing off the blade tips as the oars moved with the stroke.

2952

2953(2)

2956
All work is now completed on this build which is not the same as finished.
There is a stand to prepare, and some faffing and fussing with the model before the final build photos are presented.
 
B.E.
24/07/21

Thank you Bruce, nearly there now. 🙂
 
Post Forty-seven
 
Dressing the oars.
The kit provides a stylised Dolphin design to decorate the face of the oar blades.
These are printed on paper and require close cutting before gluing to the blades.
 
I started with a No11 scalpel blade, but found that small pointed scissors proved a better means of cutting without tearing. Even so it proved quite a time consuming business.
 
I used 6mm Tamiya tape to ensure an equal placing distance from the blade tip.
 
The designs are ‘handed’ for port and starboard oars.
 
Once applied using dilute pva, the edges were painted around, and a coat of w-o-p applied to the design.
The final act is to add thin strips around the tip of the blade to represent a binding used to prevent the blade tip splitting.
I understand that Leather, tin, or perhaps copper strips were used for this purpose.
 
I decided to use copper for no other reason than I liked it but this is a Royal Barge and one can imagine the sunlight flashing off the blade tips as the oars moved with the stroke.

2952

2953(2)

2956
All work is now completed on this build which is not the same as finished.
There is a stand to prepare, and some faffing and fussing with the model before the final build photos are presented.
 
B.E.
24/07/21

Congratulations Derek on completing a very fine build.
Those who follow on with this kit will derive great benefit from your log and shared experience.
 
Well done.
 
B.E.

Thank you Bruce, nearly there now. 🙂
 
Post Forty-seven
 
Dressing the oars.
The kit provides a stylised Dolphin design to decorate the face of the oar blades.
These are printed on paper and require close cutting before gluing to the blades.
 
I started with a No11 scalpel blade, but found that small pointed scissors proved a better means of cutting without tearing. Even so it proved quite a time consuming business.
 
I used 6mm Tamiya tape to ensure an equal placing distance from the blade tip.
 
The designs are ‘handed’ for port and starboard oars.
 
Once applied using dilute pva, the edges were painted around, and a coat of w-o-p applied to the design.
The final act is to add thin strips around the tip of the blade to represent a binding used to prevent the blade tip splitting.
I understand that Leather, tin, or perhaps copper strips were used for this purpose.
 
I decided to use copper for no other reason than I liked it but this is a Royal Barge and one can imagine the sunlight flashing off the blade tips as the oars moved with the stroke.

2952

2953(2)

2956
All work is now completed on this build which is not the same as finished.
There is a stand to prepare, and some faffing and fussing with the model before the final build photos are presented.
 
B.E.
24/07/21

Post Forty-six
 
Flag staffs and Flags.
 
Two Flag staffs are required to be made from provided dowel.
The staffs have decorative features in the form of wooden balls, but there is scope to elaborate the decoration if desired.

2907
I added extra balls and enhanced the Truck slightly.
 
One small puzzlement I had was that with the staffs cut to the plan dimensions the Fore-staff was the same height as the Main-staff when fitted.
Completed Broadside photos seemed to indicate that the Fore-staff was slightly shorter.
 
Chuck has provided two flags to adorn the Barge, The Royal Standard and the Union Flag.
 
The Royal Standard is of the period 1704-1714, and the Union Flag 1606 – 1800.
Both are produced using the print on tissue paper method, in my opinion by far the best medium for model boat purposes, unless those models are very large indeed.
 
For hoisting the flags, I will use a series of Ribands to secure the Flag, with the topmost ring attached to the mast truck.
 
The Royal Standard
Before I started messing with the flags I took the precaution of taking copies just in case things went pear-shaped.

2847
The copies were printed on Modelspan tissue.

2891
One of the spares was attached to a jury staff to allow me to play with folding and draping technique.
I wanted to get the feel for how the flag would perform during this stage without risking the kit provided versions.

2892
The flag was wetted down using the spray fixative and teased into shape.
 
The proper Standard was then fixed to the Flagstaff.

2914
I had a slight issue with the top of the hoist tearing away from the staff but the fixative held it in place once set.
I was after a loose drape so as not to obscure too much of the colourful design of the standard.
 
The Union Flag

2920
The kit provided Union Flag.
These are always more problematical with the tissue method because when draped the transparency allows the red cross to show thro’ the white sections giving the impression that the ink has run.

2924
This is the effect I mean and this version will not stand.
 
I couldn’t seem to get the drape I was after and was not at all happy with this result.
Nothing for it but to print off some Union Flags onto Modelspan. I used 21gsm weight.

2926
I had thought that the Union Flag was a tad large for the Foremast and would likely to cover the foremost oarsman at the bow.
I reduced the size a tad for these Mk 2 versions and added a hem to the hoist side.

2928
The Mk 2 flag attached to the staff; it has been sprayed with fixative to seal the colours.
2945(2)

2943(2)

2942(2)

2940(2)

2936(2)
The Flag staffs are not glued in place and the flags may receive a little more dressing before the final display.

In the final stages now and back to completion of the oars.
 
B.E.
23/07/21
 
 



 

Thank you Bruce, nearly there now. 🙂
 
Post Forty-seven
 
Dressing the oars.
The kit provides a stylised Dolphin design to decorate the face of the oar blades.
These are printed on paper and require close cutting before gluing to the blades.
 
I started with a No11 scalpel blade, but found that small pointed scissors proved a better means of cutting without tearing. Even so it proved quite a time consuming business.
 
I used 6mm Tamiya tape to ensure an equal placing distance from the blade tip.
 
The designs are ‘handed’ for port and starboard oars.
 
Once applied using dilute pva, the edges were painted around, and a coat of w-o-p applied to the design.
The final act is to add thin strips around the tip of the blade to represent a binding used to prevent the blade tip splitting.
I understand that Leather, tin, or perhaps copper strips were used for this purpose.
 
I decided to use copper for no other reason than I liked it but this is a Royal Barge and one can imagine the sunlight flashing off the blade tips as the oars moved with the stroke.

2952

2953(2)

2956
All work is now completed on this build which is not the same as finished.
There is a stand to prepare, and some faffing and fussing with the model before the final build photos are presented.
 
B.E.
24/07/21

Progress status....
 
after achieving a tall and narrow  white book shelf yesterday on Ebay, I removed the books from the lower portion on of the  "Eagle of Algier`s" sideboard.
The "Hjejlen" now fits into the free space compartment with it`s glass case, as if it were made for this.
 
I have now 7 glass cased models in my working office, the 8th one "Gorch Fock" 3 mast barque and in lack of space, had to move upstairs to it`s new mooring place for display....
 
Nils
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 

A fine model and dio Alan, and a fitting tribute to this iconic cruiser.
Did you know that C.S. Forester dedicated his book The Ship to the officers and crew of HMS Penelope.
I have a special interest in this ship as my uncle went down with her.  As an ERA and with the ship closed up for action he had little chance of escape.
He had transferred from her sister ship Aurora in December 43 after she was seriously damaged during an air attack.
Such are the fortunes of war.
 
B.E.

Thank you Bruce, nearly there now. 🙂
 
Post Forty-seven
 
Dressing the oars.
The kit provides a stylised Dolphin design to decorate the face of the oar blades.
These are printed on paper and require close cutting before gluing to the blades.
 
I started with a No11 scalpel blade, but found that small pointed scissors proved a better means of cutting without tearing. Even so it proved quite a time consuming business.
 
I used 6mm Tamiya tape to ensure an equal placing distance from the blade tip.
 
The designs are ‘handed’ for port and starboard oars.
 
Once applied using dilute pva, the edges were painted around, and a coat of w-o-p applied to the design.
The final act is to add thin strips around the tip of the blade to represent a binding used to prevent the blade tip splitting.
I understand that Leather, tin, or perhaps copper strips were used for this purpose.
 
I decided to use copper for no other reason than I liked it but this is a Royal Barge and one can imagine the sunlight flashing off the blade tips as the oars moved with the stroke.

2952

2953(2)

2956
All work is now completed on this build which is not the same as finished.
There is a stand to prepare, and some faffing and fussing with the model before the final build photos are presented.
 
B.E.
24/07/21

A fine model and dio Alan, and a fitting tribute to this iconic cruiser.
Did you know that C.S. Forester dedicated his book The Ship to the officers and crew of HMS Penelope.
I have a special interest in this ship as my uncle went down with her.  As an ERA and with the ship closed up for action he had little chance of escape.
He had transferred from her sister ship Aurora in December 43 after she was seriously damaged during an air attack.
Such are the fortunes of war.
 
B.E.

Thank you Bruce, nearly there now. 🙂
 
Post Forty-seven
 
Dressing the oars.
The kit provides a stylised Dolphin design to decorate the face of the oar blades.
These are printed on paper and require close cutting before gluing to the blades.
 
I started with a No11 scalpel blade, but found that small pointed scissors proved a better means of cutting without tearing. Even so it proved quite a time consuming business.
 
I used 6mm Tamiya tape to ensure an equal placing distance from the blade tip.
 
The designs are ‘handed’ for port and starboard oars.
 
Once applied using dilute pva, the edges were painted around, and a coat of w-o-p applied to the design.
The final act is to add thin strips around the tip of the blade to represent a binding used to prevent the blade tip splitting.
I understand that Leather, tin, or perhaps copper strips were used for this purpose.
 
I decided to use copper for no other reason than I liked it but this is a Royal Barge and one can imagine the sunlight flashing off the blade tips as the oars moved with the stroke.

2952

2953(2)

2956
All work is now completed on this build which is not the same as finished.
There is a stand to prepare, and some faffing and fussing with the model before the final build photos are presented.
 
B.E.
24/07/21

Thank you Bruce, nearly there now. 🙂
 
Post Forty-seven
 
Dressing the oars.
The kit provides a stylised Dolphin design to decorate the face of the oar blades.
These are printed on paper and require close cutting before gluing to the blades.
 
I started with a No11 scalpel blade, but found that small pointed scissors proved a better means of cutting without tearing. Even so it proved quite a time consuming business.
 
I used 6mm Tamiya tape to ensure an equal placing distance from the blade tip.
 
The designs are ‘handed’ for port and starboard oars.
 
Once applied using dilute pva, the edges were painted around, and a coat of w-o-p applied to the design.
The final act is to add thin strips around the tip of the blade to represent a binding used to prevent the blade tip splitting.
I understand that Leather, tin, or perhaps copper strips were used for this purpose.
 
I decided to use copper for no other reason than I liked it but this is a Royal Barge and one can imagine the sunlight flashing off the blade tips as the oars moved with the stroke.

2952

2953(2)

2956
All work is now completed on this build which is not the same as finished.
There is a stand to prepare, and some faffing and fussing with the model before the final build photos are presented.
 
B.E.
24/07/21

Thank you Bruce, nearly there now. 🙂
 
Post Forty-seven
 
Dressing the oars.
The kit provides a stylised Dolphin design to decorate the face of the oar blades.
These are printed on paper and require close cutting before gluing to the blades.
 
I started with a No11 scalpel blade, but found that small pointed scissors proved a better means of cutting without tearing. Even so it proved quite a time consuming business.
 
I used 6mm Tamiya tape to ensure an equal placing distance from the blade tip.
 
The designs are ‘handed’ for port and starboard oars.
 
Once applied using dilute pva, the edges were painted around, and a coat of w-o-p applied to the design.
The final act is to add thin strips around the tip of the blade to represent a binding used to prevent the blade tip splitting.
I understand that Leather, tin, or perhaps copper strips were used for this purpose.
 
I decided to use copper for no other reason than I liked it but this is a Royal Barge and one can imagine the sunlight flashing off the blade tips as the oars moved with the stroke.

2952

2953(2)

2956
All work is now completed on this build which is not the same as finished.
There is a stand to prepare, and some faffing and fussing with the model before the final build photos are presented.
 
B.E.
24/07/21

Thank you Bruce, nearly there now. 🙂
 
Post Forty-seven
 
Dressing the oars.
The kit provides a stylised Dolphin design to decorate the face of the oar blades.
These are printed on paper and require close cutting before gluing to the blades.
 
I started with a No11 scalpel blade, but found that small pointed scissors proved a better means of cutting without tearing. Even so it proved quite a time consuming business.
 
I used 6mm Tamiya tape to ensure an equal placing distance from the blade tip.
 
The designs are ‘handed’ for port and starboard oars.
 
Once applied using dilute pva, the edges were painted around, and a coat of w-o-p applied to the design.
The final act is to add thin strips around the tip of the blade to represent a binding used to prevent the blade tip splitting.
I understand that Leather, tin, or perhaps copper strips were used for this purpose.
 
I decided to use copper for no other reason than I liked it but this is a Royal Barge and one can imagine the sunlight flashing off the blade tips as the oars moved with the stroke.

2952

2953(2)

2956
All work is now completed on this build which is not the same as finished.
There is a stand to prepare, and some faffing and fussing with the model before the final build photos are presented.
 
B.E.
24/07/21

It just keeps getting better. That is beautiful.

A fine model and dio Alan, and a fitting tribute to this iconic cruiser.
Did you know that C.S. Forester dedicated his book The Ship to the officers and crew of HMS Penelope.
I have a special interest in this ship as my uncle went down with her.  As an ERA and with the ship closed up for action he had little chance of escape.
He had transferred from her sister ship Aurora in December 43 after she was seriously damaged during an air attack.
Such are the fortunes of war.
 
B.E.

A fine model and dio Alan, and a fitting tribute to this iconic cruiser.
Did you know that C.S. Forester dedicated his book The Ship to the officers and crew of HMS Penelope.
I have a special interest in this ship as my uncle went down with her.  As an ERA and with the ship closed up for action he had little chance of escape.
He had transferred from her sister ship Aurora in December 43 after she was seriously damaged during an air attack.
Such are the fortunes of war.
 
B.E.

A fine model and dio Alan, and a fitting tribute to this iconic cruiser.
Did you know that C.S. Forester dedicated his book The Ship to the officers and crew of HMS Penelope.
I have a special interest in this ship as my uncle went down with her.  As an ERA and with the ship closed up for action he had little chance of escape.
He had transferred from her sister ship Aurora in December 43 after she was seriously damaged during an air attack.
Such are the fortunes of war.
 
B.E.

Post Forty-six
 
Flag staffs and Flags.
 
Two Flag staffs are required to be made from provided dowel.
The staffs have decorative features in the form of wooden balls, but there is scope to elaborate the decoration if desired.

2907
I added extra balls and enhanced the Truck slightly.
 
One small puzzlement I had was that with the staffs cut to the plan dimensions the Fore-staff was the same height as the Main-staff when fitted.
Completed Broadside photos seemed to indicate that the Fore-staff was slightly shorter.
 
Chuck has provided two flags to adorn the Barge, The Royal Standard and the Union Flag.
 
The Royal Standard is of the period 1704-1714, and the Union Flag 1606 – 1800.
Both are produced using the print on tissue paper method, in my opinion by far the best medium for model boat purposes, unless those models are very large indeed.
 
For hoisting the flags, I will use a series of Ribands to secure the Flag, with the topmost ring attached to the mast truck.
 
The Royal Standard
Before I started messing with the flags I took the precaution of taking copies just in case things went pear-shaped.

2847
The copies were printed on Modelspan tissue.

2891
One of the spares was attached to a jury staff to allow me to play with folding and draping technique.
I wanted to get the feel for how the flag would perform during this stage without risking the kit provided versions.

2892
The flag was wetted down using the spray fixative and teased into shape.
 
The proper Standard was then fixed to the Flagstaff.

2914
I had a slight issue with the top of the hoist tearing away from the staff but the fixative held it in place once set.
I was after a loose drape so as not to obscure too much of the colourful design of the standard.
 
The Union Flag

2920
The kit provided Union Flag.
These are always more problematical with the tissue method because when draped the transparency allows the red cross to show thro’ the white sections giving the impression that the ink has run.

2924
This is the effect I mean and this version will not stand.
 
I couldn’t seem to get the drape I was after and was not at all happy with this result.
Nothing for it but to print off some Union Flags onto Modelspan. I used 21gsm weight.

2926
I had thought that the Union Flag was a tad large for the Foremast and would likely to cover the foremost oarsman at the bow.
I reduced the size a tad for these Mk 2 versions and added a hem to the hoist side.

2928
The Mk 2 flag attached to the staff; it has been sprayed with fixative to seal the colours.
2945(2)

2943(2)

2942(2)

2940(2)

2936(2)
The Flag staffs are not glued in place and the flags may receive a little more dressing before the final display.

In the final stages now and back to completion of the oars.
 
B.E.
23/07/21
 
 



 

Nice work Richard, you may well find that the falls of the Main Yard Brace  cover that scarph.
 
B.E.

Post Forty-six
 
Flag staffs and Flags.
 
Two Flag staffs are required to be made from provided dowel.
The staffs have decorative features in the form of wooden balls, but there is scope to elaborate the decoration if desired.

2907
I added extra balls and enhanced the Truck slightly.
 
One small puzzlement I had was that with the staffs cut to the plan dimensions the Fore-staff was the same height as the Main-staff when fitted.
Completed Broadside photos seemed to indicate that the Fore-staff was slightly shorter.
 
Chuck has provided two flags to adorn the Barge, The Royal Standard and the Union Flag.
 
The Royal Standard is of the period 1704-1714, and the Union Flag 1606 – 1800.
Both are produced using the print on tissue paper method, in my opinion by far the best medium for model boat purposes, unless those models are very large indeed.
 
For hoisting the flags, I will use a series of Ribands to secure the Flag, with the topmost ring attached to the mast truck.
 
The Royal Standard
Before I started messing with the flags I took the precaution of taking copies just in case things went pear-shaped.

2847
The copies were printed on Modelspan tissue.

2891
One of the spares was attached to a jury staff to allow me to play with folding and draping technique.
I wanted to get the feel for how the flag would perform during this stage without risking the kit provided versions.

2892
The flag was wetted down using the spray fixative and teased into shape.
 
The proper Standard was then fixed to the Flagstaff.

2914
I had a slight issue with the top of the hoist tearing away from the staff but the fixative held it in place once set.
I was after a loose drape so as not to obscure too much of the colourful design of the standard.
 
The Union Flag

2920
The kit provided Union Flag.
These are always more problematical with the tissue method because when draped the transparency allows the red cross to show thro’ the white sections giving the impression that the ink has run.

2924
This is the effect I mean and this version will not stand.
 
I couldn’t seem to get the drape I was after and was not at all happy with this result.
Nothing for it but to print off some Union Flags onto Modelspan. I used 21gsm weight.

2926
I had thought that the Union Flag was a tad large for the Foremast and would likely to cover the foremost oarsman at the bow.
I reduced the size a tad for these Mk 2 versions and added a hem to the hoist side.

2928
The Mk 2 flag attached to the staff; it has been sprayed with fixative to seal the colours.
2945(2)

2943(2)

2942(2)

2940(2)

2936(2)
The Flag staffs are not glued in place and the flags may receive a little more dressing before the final display.

In the final stages now and back to completion of the oars.
 
B.E.
23/07/21