Jump to content

jwvolz

Members
  • Posts

    979
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by jwvolz

  1. What jumps out at me Ian is how top heavy the Corel dimensions are relative to Steel. I'm starting to remember why I didn't use Corel's plans for the masting and rigging when I built her...Even the yard dimensions are all larger, but I think that is less of an issue than the out of balance masts. Still, I'm not saying Corel has the spars right either. 

     

    My gut tells me you should stick with Steel's numbers, the masts will be much better balanced. Hard to argue with him, vs. a kit manufacturer, especially with the other errors we know are in the kit. I used a mix of sources (didn't have Steel then), that generally agreed for the most part and was pretty happy with how it came out.

  2. Found this thread while doing a little digging around for my next possible build.

     

    I'd like to build one of the Cruizer-class brig sloops and am just trying to get some ideas here. I like the look of the fore and aft platforms as on the Snake, but with more possible build options by going with one of the brig sloops, rather than the much less numerous ship sloops. I've perused some of the links and those plans available online at the NMM, but just can't get a handle on which of the brig sloop versions would have had the fore and aft platforms. I don't necessarily have to build one of the more "famous" vessels like Reindeer, Grasshopper, Frolic etc..., just want something a bit different; there are certainly enough name choices! 

     

    As to which kit, I'm thinking of buying the Snake since it is all set up for the platforms  and also comes with carronades, as opposed to the long 6's in the Cruizer kit. I'd have to re-work the channels and make new mast steps in the keel, but still think it may be the smarter route than starting with the Cruizer kit. I might also have to get a hold of the Caldercraft Cruizer plans for the masts/spars, general rigging arrangement. Deck layout changes I can get from the NMM plans most likely.

     

    Thoughts???

     

    Just a great thread Dave, and everyone else who has contributed. Thanks for the research.

  3. Mike,

     

    Although a lot of my build recollection is foggy, I know I didn't use Corel's mast and spar dimensions on the build, referring at the time to "Historic Ship Models" by Zu Mondfeld. I would definitely use an outside reference when compiling mast and spar tables for the build..

     

    The outward flare of the upper bulwarks as Ian pointed out, I agree is very likely wrong. If anything there should be an inboard tumble home. Never did address that on mine...

     

    Deck beams for the waist area will certainly take away the issue that Ian mentioned of trying to accommodate both sheer and camber in one large sub-deck piece  that is already going to need to be made narrower through the waist. 

  4. Mike,

     

    The boats are plastic shells that Model Expo used to sell. Not sure of the manufacturer, but I think it was one of the European companies.

     

    I hollowed them out further from their original form with my Dremel, and added details from wood. They came scribed with that planking pattern on the outside of the hull. 

     

     

    post-11003-0-31217200-1397306544_thumb.jpg

  5. Ian/Mike,

     

    I didn't use the Corel rigging plan, at all if that helps. 

     

    Hate to keep posting my pics in your log Mike, but hopefully they help the other Unicorn builders. Here is the waist area with the ship's boats. 

     

    I'm having a hard time recalling a lot of the changes I made since it was so long ago,  :rolleyes:

     

     

     

     

    post-11003-0-45645200-1397249922_thumb.jpg

  6. Hi Mike,

     

    I built the Unicorn about 14 years ago (converted as best I could to HMS Fox, as that's a family name...) and found that there were enough belaying locations, at least as I rigged without sails, and some of their associated lines. 

     

    Here's a picture for you, that was scanned from a 4x6 print, as that's all I have, since I sold her not long after I built her. 

     

    I have a few more photos, let me know if you are interested. Don't want to hijack your build log!

     

     

    post-11003-0-34884000-1397234197_thumb.jpg

  7. Eamonn,

     

    Another trick you can try to get a clean edge is to spray or brush a clear (gloss or matte, either will work) over the Tamiya tape and the demarcation with the area you wish to paint. This clear barrier helps prevent the new color from seeping under the tape. A slight variation on what Nigel suggested. 

×
×
  • Create New...