jwvolz

Evening all,   while waiting for the Mossie to have her touch up, and the spit  to de-gas,  I decided to continue with my seafire  -  next  to work on was to paint the cockpit/seat section  - this had the normal colours applied, then a bit of shading/highlighting,  then I fitted the seat belts that was in the form of decals, after I gave the whole thing a few coats of flat top coat.
 
OC.

Evening, 
I'm a bit embarrassed that it's been almost a month since I last updated Niagara. 
 
Being back to work, it's been brutal. A lot of sick folks out there.
Honestly though, I've worked in medicine for 15+ years now. I've never seen this industry, (pardon my language) get it's "poop" wired so tight so quick.
Truly amazing how it's being mobilized. These folks are gonna need a drink after this, they've earned it. 
 
Anywho…….
A well deserved retreat to modeling is just what's needed!!!!!!
Plus the fantastically chilly adult beverage next to me is helping!
 
With the two forward cannon done, the rope coils will be added later, I started with one carronade.
I figured just doing one at first, I can wrap my head around the best sequence to install. 
One thing I did learn from the cannon, install the breech rope first.
To be perfectly transparent, the cannon/carronade are glued to the ship/sleds.
I know some master builders could probably rig these without anchoring them down...…..not this guy!

I probably over did it with the extra length for the breech rope slack. 
I only have one package of the .035 from Syren.
Don't think I'll run out soon, but I'm the type of builder that likes to have one extra package on hand.
All in good time though.

In the end, I still haven't got quite the right slack in the breech rope. 
I think what's happening is that when I tie everything off I use hemostats to help.
I must be putting pressure somewhere on that set up that's giving me a "false" look.
Thank goodness there's 17 more cannon to figure it out!!!

All the block and tackle where rigged off ship and just set into there respective eyebolts. 

Little bit of a spiders web of rope.
That's ok, looks like progress to me!!!! 
Very slow and deliberate method. At the most I wont install more than four carronade at a time.
I don't like the "overwhelmed" feeling when installing all twenty cannons at once. 
Strop a few blocks, install a few cannon...…….all in good time.   

Wash your hands!
 
Tom E 
 
 

That looks very nice. Seems like those are some of the best designed kit head rails. Much more authentic looking than most. 

That looks very nice. Seems like those are some of the best designed kit head rails. Much more authentic looking than most. 

That looks very nice. Seems like those are some of the best designed kit head rails. Much more authentic looking than most. 

Very nice work s far, and well planned out.
 
That kink in the bulwarks will likely straighten out just fine once you get the inner and outer planking installed. 

Looking good Eamonn!

Nice work on the deck. Joggling looks good. 

Looking good Eamonn!

Yo yes I'm back, Again, hope to keep at it this time.
I decided to re-plank the deck, didn't like the last version
and have been trying to make deck fittings which are no fun at all.
Planking straight over the existing deck, stuck too well to get off.

Hi Again Folks ..  Some slightly ( )  better photos this time..  Close Up of the Schooner Stay and todays work on the Fore Stay ..  I made the Mouse from a piece of left over dowel turned on the lathe ..  then served around it to form the bight (Loop) .. Attached the Deadeye and rove the Lanyard through it and the one previously done on the bow..
I noticed too late that the wee Man had fallen over in the background on one shot .. must have hit the grog too hard   
In the photo of the Top of the fore Mast (The photo with the Mouse) this isn't the final position of the Fore Stay, I have to do the Shrouds next then it will rest on these..
 
I also include a close up of the end fittings of the Bowsprit .. for no apparent reason  except that I don't think I had taken one before.
 
All The Best Folks
 
Eamonn
 

Aires resin definitely makes a GE exhaust for the Tamiya F-16. 
 
With regard to the pod, it may be a case of the correct pylon for the F-16.  Let me keep poking around my spares, I may have the pylon.

Aires resin definitely makes a GE exhaust for the Tamiya F-16. 
 
With regard to the pod, it may be a case of the correct pylon for the F-16.  Let me keep poking around my spares, I may have the pylon.

Also, you can get the Litening pod in resin from Eduard. 
 
Here's one source on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/EDUARD-1-48-AIRCRAFT-AN-AQ28-V-LITENING-POD-PHOTO-ETCH-RESIN-648237/402020807363?hash=item5d9a4eb2c3:g:mb4AAOSwMyteDOtM

Great kits those Tamiya F-16s. 
 
Not sure how fussed you are about it, but the other big difference from block 32 to block 50 is the intake and exhaust. The block 50s have the larger intake (not a big deal visually) and are GE powered vs the P&W powered block 32s. The exhaust looks completely different. You've go the P&W exhaust. Some of the Tamiya boxings contain the parts for both. 
 
I just took a look through my spare parts and I have two extra P&W nozzles, but no GE...

Aires resin definitely makes a GE exhaust for the Tamiya F-16. 
 
With regard to the pod, it may be a case of the correct pylon for the F-16.  Let me keep poking around my spares, I may have the pylon.

Aires resin definitely makes a GE exhaust for the Tamiya F-16. 
 
With regard to the pod, it may be a case of the correct pylon for the F-16.  Let me keep poking around my spares, I may have the pylon.

Also, you can get the Litening pod in resin from Eduard. 
 
Here's one source on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/EDUARD-1-48-AIRCRAFT-AN-AQ28-V-LITENING-POD-PHOTO-ETCH-RESIN-648237/402020807363?hash=item5d9a4eb2c3:g:mb4AAOSwMyteDOtM

Great kits those Tamiya F-16s. 
 
Not sure how fussed you are about it, but the other big difference from block 32 to block 50 is the intake and exhaust. The block 50s have the larger intake (not a big deal visually) and are GE powered vs the P&W powered block 32s. The exhaust looks completely different. You've go the P&W exhaust. Some of the Tamiya boxings contain the parts for both. 
 
I just took a look through my spare parts and I have two extra P&W nozzles, but no GE...

Aires resin definitely makes a GE exhaust for the Tamiya F-16. 
 
With regard to the pod, it may be a case of the correct pylon for the F-16.  Let me keep poking around my spares, I may have the pylon.

Also, you can get the Litening pod in resin from Eduard. 
 
Here's one source on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/EDUARD-1-48-AIRCRAFT-AN-AQ28-V-LITENING-POD-PHOTO-ETCH-RESIN-648237/402020807363?hash=item5d9a4eb2c3:g:mb4AAOSwMyteDOtM

Also, you can get the Litening pod in resin from Eduard. 
 
Here's one source on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/EDUARD-1-48-AIRCRAFT-AN-AQ28-V-LITENING-POD-PHOTO-ETCH-RESIN-648237/402020807363?hash=item5d9a4eb2c3:g:mb4AAOSwMyteDOtM

Great kits those Tamiya F-16s. 
 
Not sure how fussed you are about it, but the other big difference from block 32 to block 50 is the intake and exhaust. The block 50s have the larger intake (not a big deal visually) and are GE powered vs the P&W powered block 32s. The exhaust looks completely different. You've go the P&W exhaust. Some of the Tamiya boxings contain the parts for both. 
 
I just took a look through my spare parts and I have two extra P&W nozzles, but no GE...

Right, all new fittings have been laser cut and some are already available on the website, with the cannon and capstans coming online very soon.
 
I just finished cutting the final capstan parts, the 20mm high 64th single and the 72nd scale double. Both come with a length of walnut dowel long enough for the capstans and well over a full deck down.
 
Also, I have just started laser cutting the standard Flirt parts, starting with 1mm pearwood. I cut these one sheet at a time (same as the Master Shipwright parts in boxwood) and check each carefully after cutting. I have added a pic of the first sheet cut, both top and bottom views, using my new magnetic 'nail bed'

Built up, not much fiddly bits. Prepped for paintin'