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Chuck Seiler

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Everything posted by Chuck Seiler

  1. Chuck Seiler
    Wait for the sale.
  2. Chuck Seiler
    Patrick, I recommend you replace your "Fear of Failure" with "Quest for Achievement". I guarantee you will screw things up, learn from them and move on. You can do like I do, screw things up and pull everything apart...they do it better the next time. I don't think I have built a model yet where I did not have the 'opportunity to improve my skills thru dynamic restructuring'. I have started the SULTANA myself, many years ago, and really like it. It is sitting in my garage getting ready for masting and rigging...one of these days. Go forth and achieve!
  3. Chuck Seiler
    To answer your first question...I dunno, I think wooden ship modeling (or ship modeling in general) is in the blood. Once you get bit, you can never really let it go. There always seems to be the lore to get back in and build another one better, or bigger, or more complex. It's in the blood and the only cure is scotch.
  4. Chuck Seiler
    Rossi, Where do you live? It sounds like you are looking to venture into the dark side; heavy kit bashing at (dare I say) scratch building. If there is a model club near you, I would recommending getting with them as well as interacting here. Sometimes face-to-face discussions and demos can be invaluable.
  5. Chuck Seiler
    I have a mental breakdown just LOOKING at them.
  6. Chuck Seiler
    Keep in mind that the wale(s) were structural members, not decoration or "fenders". In part, they acted like barrel hoops, tying the frames together and also as a strong point for deck clamps, knees, etc. In the 1600s, and prior (not sure of the dates) each frame futtock was secured to a wale rather than it's neighboring futtock. That is why the earlier vessels have so many wales.
  7. Chuck Seiler
    I own 3 or 4 dremels and I use the snot out of my cordless (with spare battery). Lie any other tool, it has its place. I agree with others that there are times when you DON'T want to use it because it can take too much wood off or offer too little control in making a hole, but I have also found I can now do much more detailed work with it than I could before. It was the ONLY power tool I had for years...until I got a Byrnes saw. I recommend getting the dremel 3 jaw chuck.
  8. Chuck Seiler
    Cab, What scale is the model?
  9. Chuck Seiler
    The Amati DRAKKER only has 9 frames. If he used those plans, he did a bunch of extrapolation.
  10. Chuck Seiler
    This appears to be a continuation of a previous build log (like it is page 2 or 3) but I see nothing previous. Am I missing something? What are you using for your bolts?
  11. Chuck Seiler
    A quick recommendation: Drill one or two small holes down thru the top of the stem and insert some reinforcing rods. I have seen some use brass, I used bamboo....after I broke it off. It is very fragile and prone to breakage.
  12. Chuck Seiler
    Is shaft diameter over 3.2MM (1/8") really problem if all you are using it for is miniature stuff?
  13. Chuck Seiler
    Mick, Why copper for the wale fasteners? Were they bolted in? Having worked with the PHILADELPHIA, I realize they did a lot of non-standard things. Wasn't sure if this was one of them.
  14. Chuck Seiler
    Steve, Check your IM.
  15. Chuck Seiler
    One technique I have seen/used, particularly when a compound curve is involved, is to soak the plank and clamp it to the hull until dry. I am tempted to use this method with a heat-gun, but am concerned with how it will affect the wood already in place. Will repeated heating damage the wood?
  16. Chuck Seiler
    We, in the Colonial navy, called it non-skid. I have used fine sand paper to simulate it.
  17. Chuck Seiler
  18. Chuck Seiler
    As the resident vexillologist, I visit the CRWFLAG/Flags of the World site quite often.
  19. Chuck Seiler
    Commissioning pennants are still in use today.
  20. Chuck Seiler
    Does anybody have any experience with TransTint wood dye? I have heard good things about it.
  21. Chuck Seiler
    If you are going to weather your treenails, you will need to weather the decks and every other thing on the model. You can't have new decks and old treenails.
  22. Chuck Seiler
    In reference to Brian's (Gunther) post, .021= #75 size drill and .031= #68
  23. Chuck Seiler
    BCD, What model are you working on? Scale? Size, etc? What size drill bit did you use originally to drill your treenail holes?
  24. Chuck Seiler
    What size drill bit did you use? The item you are trying to duplicate is only an inch to 1.5 inches in diameter (scale) Remember, decks are not tree nailed. They are bolted. What you see is a plug used to protect the bolt heads from weather, etc. Plugs, like tree nails, will be subtle. Looking at your model from 3 feet away is like looking at the real ship from 20, 30 feet away. Subtle. If it were me, I would give the deck a good soaking with rubbing alcohol, rip up the deck and re-plank (sez a guy who just ripped off 4 weeks of hull planking to get it right.)
  25. Chuck Seiler
    Dave, I agree, in the end, go with the colour you as the builder like. (within reason....I would question the metal flake hot pink and iridescent green...but who am I?) Joel has echoed your thoughts on manufacturer vs difference in color. I think Chuck even mentioned that he used to use one brand, but they changed and the color is slightly different. Anywho, while I will continue to experiment, I have the answers I was looking for. For me, give that a shipyard of yore could mix a batch of paint one day that looks like one panel and then another batch a week later that looks like another panel leads me to a conclusion: Pick the hue I like best for the bulkheads. Pick another for the gun carriages and deck furniture. See if anybody can tel the diff...or if anybody cares. Thanks all.

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