Chuck Seiler
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Everything posted by Chuck Seiler
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Knowing that I am easily distracted, I attempted to make it semi-foolproof. On a piece of paper I made a side diagram of two frames. I marked one bow and one stern, so I would remember orientation. Then I marked :face up" or "face down". As I said, for me this is only critical at the ends. The middle frames will be left unbeveled until I get them into the frame. I them marked next to the end 3 or 4 frame slots on the jig "Face up" or "Face down". We'll see how that works out. -
I have the 'John Smith SHALLOP". It appears to be a good representation based on the reproduction in the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum. I have ordered, but not yet received, the Oseberg Drakker. The laser etchings on the bow and stern look superb. So far, I am happy with the quality of the SHALLOP. The instructions are a bit light on verbiage, but oherwise complete. Email responses from "Pavel" have been quick (although so far I have only dealt with Denis...not Pavel). As noted above, shipping is pricey. Another issue is that it takes a long time to get the package, It took over a week for them to send the package and several weeks to arrive. Part of this is due to the war. IIRC, this is a small operation so they only crank out a few kits at a time. It is even slower when bombs are dropping around you and knocking out your electricity. Also, it is my understanding that there is no commercial air currently in Ukraine, so everything has to go by ground until it gets to a place with air.
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The micro drill bits Mark is talking about run from size 60 (largest) to 80 (smallest). I tend to mostly use 72 and 76, which (coincidentally) are the years I graduated from high school and college. I normally work in 1/64 or 1/72 (or there abouts) and they work well for me for eyebolts and such. I get mine on Amazon.
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I heartily agree with Cap'n Birdseye in his recommendation. While it might not be a "first model" it makes a good early learning model. If done well, it can be a good presentation model as well. I would recommend substituting Alaskan Yellow Cedar for basswood planking.
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Now that the St. Paddy's Day beer has worn off... I checked my pieces-parts, and it appears (with my kit) if you install the parts in the jig as directed (left and right futtocks) frame 19 is face up while frames 20 and 21 are face down. Anybody else with the kit, please confirm or refute these findings.
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When the frames go in, the floor futtock is always forward of the first futtock. The first futtock goes into the frame assembly jig first and the floor futtock on top of these. Since the frames taper towards the ends of the boat, the tapers should be towards the "floor" side of the frame in the bow and the "First futtock" side in the stern. With this in mind (if I have figured it out correctly) the side of the frame pieces with laser markings for sanding should be face down in the stern and face up in the bow. The frame parts SHOULD be marked in such a way to ensure this occurs. Looking at the parts and how they are number (with left and right first futtock identified), it doesn't seem to be the case. As I get closer to that step, I will look closer. In the middle frames, the taper is so slight, I don't plan on fairing until the frames are in place, so face up or face down is not important. When the taper becomes severe, however, ensure bow frames are face up and stern frames are face down.
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In my experience, VERY few people can scratch build well right off the bat. A friend of mine made a 6inch near-museum quality HMS VICTORY on his first build...but he had alot of skills. It is better to practice on an inexpensive kit, where all the angles and dimensions are already figured out, that on a model you have spent much time, effort and passion on. Another option is the "18th-Century Merchantman Half-Hull Planking Kit " sold by the Nautical Research Guild (NRG). It is invaluable in terms of learning to plank properly and can be a great display model when complete. Click on "NRG Home Page" at the top of the page. When scratch building in the manner you showed in above photos, I used Baltic birch craft plywood...usually 1/8 inch. Available at MICHEAL'S, in hobby shops or online.
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They are also a MSW sponsor. You can find their link in the right hand margin.
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I strongly agree with Vossy. If new to wooden ship modeling, jumping in with scratch builds can be overwhelming. Check out the topic "New to ship modelling? But what do you build first? " to get an idea of first time builds. While these first time builds are not all that glamorous, they give a feel for how the wood works and insight into the various techniques. I respectfully disagree with Gregory about the 16th Century Longboat. I found that to be more advanced in that you need to be near the top of your game with your planking. LIttle room for error. ....but your question was about tools. Some of the tools I find most valuable are; Dremel or similar rotary tool, #11 Exacto knife or similar surgical scalpel, sand paper/sanding sticks (I use finger nail Emory boards and sandpaper glued to popcicle sticks), wood glue. Clamps...you can never have too many clamps. Acquire them as you need them. Magnification.
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Jerry's parts have arrived or should be arriving shortly, based on timing of previous shipping. I look forward to the shipyard restarting production. I wanted to take this opportunity to ask a question about real construction. Based on building practice of the day, would the frames have been bolted together or treenailed?
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Pulling up a seat. Chris, pass the popcorn. Another fine offering from Pavel. At 34 inches, this will be bigger than Imbir. I am looking forward to the build.
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Rope walk machine
Chuck Seiler replied to Christership's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I second Syren Ship Model Company -
Welcome to MSW and model ship building, As CPDDET said, it is rewarding and sometime frustrating. When working compound curves, the wood often doesn't do what you think it is going to do. Fear not and worry not. Using wood glue, everything is fixable (sez the guy who has unglued most of his models at one point or another). Alcohol is your friend...scotch and isopropyl. ...and you can never have too many clamps.
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The full sized one.
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You are never going to let me live that one down, are you?
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Can you just unglue the cant frames?
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She is Ukrainian. Her shirt says "Olha" and in her FAQ video she pronounces her name "OH-la".
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Jerry, I think you will find that the skeleton will be surprisingly stable once the frames are inserted into the jig and glued to the keel, the keelson is added and the gunwales and clamps are added. Delicate, but stable.
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Wouldn't it be better to fair the frames after assembly? That way you can ensure an even fair where the futtocks overlap.
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While in the Navy, I got to see the underside of my destroyer while in drydock. I think red primer would be a good color. I know it is not acrylic, but....
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Sorry. I quoted Bob Cleek, not you.
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Huh? A sea going craft still needs to know which direction to go. (or I should say the people sailing the craft.)
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Planking improvement
Chuck Seiler replied to Picard's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Thickness or width...or both? -
A follow on to Allen's point... attached is a photo of my SULTANA showing how the binnacle is secured to the deck. In retrospect, I could have used smaller eyebolts and line, but....
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