geoff

Same as chuck. I use nail clippers. They get a nice close cut.

In the USA you can get good ones at CVS and other store like hat. Like Chuck said get a good pair.

I use a nail clipper.  Gives a nice crisp snip and doesnt make the edges of the rope ragged.  Both cutting edges are flush so you can get close in on a know or anything you want to cut.  Buy a good pair though....cheap ones wont work as well.

with my shaky hands I wouldn't dare use a scalpel anywhere near ratlines etc! I use fly tying scissors from Amazon, or nail clippers.

very impressive! But would it work with the type of wood we use? Also, you would need a big microwave to accommodate 24"+ timber! When (if)! I start my Endeavour, I am going to try the Admirals steam cleaner Ssshh!  no that's not the sound of escaping steam !

Thank Geoff! My name's Tom, much easier to type than "sgtski!" I'm unsure if the Niagara is double-planked or not. I downloaded the instructions so I'll go and consult them. I'm comfortable with whatever attachment method is preferred, I just want to do it right since it's a $300 kit. I got it for $199 but still. Not my most expensive kit though. I've built a few 1/8 Pocher automobile kits in the past. Nothing teaches you patience more than building up 4 or 5 wire wheels doing those kits! Thanks for the input!

welcome "sgtski" (have you got a more manageable name)! As far as nails v glue is concerned, If your model has two layers of planking, the you can use fine brass nails and wood glue on the first layer, but leave the heads proud for later removal, then glue only on the second layer. This is just my personal opinion of course! All the best, Geoff

perhaps you could try thinning it down a little first?

Mike,
 
Your Badger looks OK to me. I am sure Stockholm Tar would have picked you up on that point earlier if I hadn't spotted it.
 
I find it interesting that there seems to be a lot of effort goes in to the research of ship's structures for kits but flags don't get the same level of consideration. I saw a kit for one of King Henry VIII's ships with a Union Flag on it. Henry VIII had been dead for some 60 years before King James VI of Scotland (who also became King James I of England) instructed the navies to use the combined Scottish and English flags from 1606 on. It did not become the national flag until the act of Union of English and Scottish parliaments in 1707.
 
Another horror that I saw in a kit was an ensign with the Union Flag upside down in the flags first quarter. Sadly these days I think about 50% of the UK's population don't know the correct way up for the Union Flag.   When I was at primary school the headmaster gave me the responsibility of raising the schools Union Flag on flag days. Flying it upside down would be rewarded with a beating - so I got a bit obsessive about it.

lovely little model Omega. It reminds me of vessels like "Bluebird of Chelsea" one of the" Dunkirk Little Ships" . Hope you have the space to display it when finished!  All the best, Geoff

now, that's what you call a reply!!

It's o.k. He hasn't moved for years!

the best way is to practice on a piece of scrap wood first. You will notice that the closer together the "Nips" are, the tighter the bend. You may cut through the wood now and again, but practice makes perfect! Sometimes it pays to soak the wood first, it depends on how hard the wood is. I hope this is of some use to you!  All the best, Geoff

I think of sanding sealer as being a thick product.  Useful on open pore wood like Black Walnut, Oak, and A finish plywood to fill the pores and give a smooth even finish.  Intended more for full size furiture.
 
Shellac is an excellent traditional finish.  It can be as thick or thin as you wish.  It is not good for applications where it can come in contact with water.  It hydrates and turns white.  It can be easily repaired, but do not use it to finish a coffee table. 
A shellac finish can be removed with alcohol.
The material can be preextracted and purified and comes as Orange (probably straight from the beetle) to Super Blonde - almost water clear.  The solvent is alcohol (methyl, ethyl, 2-propanol, probably propanol if you can find it).  You can buy it in flakes and make up your own solution as needed.  The more purified are the flakes, the lower the maximium concentration you can make.  The impurities increase solubilitiy in alcohol.  The more volatile is the alcohol (Me>Ethyl>Prop) the less working time if you are using a cloth for application.  Dilute shellac is a good first coat for most any other finish.  It is very compatible with other finishes.  French polish seems to be multiple layers of shellac applied with a cloth that has a bit of Linseed oil in the cloth.  I would guess that Tung oil or Walnut oil might work as well.

Yes thank you

the best way is to practice on a piece of scrap wood first. You will notice that the closer together the "Nips" are, the tighter the bend. You may cut through the wood now and again, but practice makes perfect! Sometimes it pays to soak the wood first, it depends on how hard the wood is. I hope this is of some use to you!  All the best, Geoff

Meanwhile,time for a relaxing break.Here's a few pictures of my other hobby!

thanks Geoff, I got that one just recently, you are right it's really good book.

Cat destroyed Bark - Love it Geoff

Hi Greg, just caught up with your wonderful build log. I am presently working on the "Admiral & crew" for when the gentleman with a white beard comes in December & delivers a Caldercraft Endeavour kit!(hopefully)! Sorry to read of the cat damage, but according to my AOTS the Endeavour was "A cat BUILT Bark, not a cat DESTROYED bark! Our cat is 19 years old now & more interested in sleeping & eating than boat wrecking(hopefully)! Fantastic build, I hope I can get close to yours ,All the best, Geoff

Using off-the-shelf fittings is, of course, a cost saving measure for the manufacturer.  I know this has been a particular point of contention between Chris Watton an Amati; Chris usually pushes for as much vessel-specific fidelity as he can for his designs, but Amati hold the purse strings, so there are limits.  Perhaps it was stated earlier, but kit builders are actually living in a Golden Era of kit manufacturing - there's a new crop of designers (Chris, Chuck, et al) with a passion for historically accurate, true-to-scale products, and Internet resources (like this forum) make it relatively easy to weed out bad designs for those interested in avoiding them.
 
Cheers!

Very interesting. I look forward to seeing more on the steam portion of the build. I think steam is one of the ways to generate power. Next to sails of course. 

Technically pretty darn accurate since it is in fact the constitution and not a replica.  It has had a lot of work done to her to keep her in shape, but she is the real deal from way back when  
 
.....But I know what you are saying
 
 
Regarding the kits,  yup - many are real, many are fake, and many are as close as the kit manufacturer can get.   From what I can gather from the tremendous builds put forth here, none of the ships from the manufacturers are 100% accurate. Seems to always be room for the modeler to tweak and improve to get the most accurate possible through bashing and scratch building.  They also can only do so much with regards to their own research on the subject.
 
Now, with regards to those comapnies who throw everything out and are fabricating everything right down to Scale (as Mark mentioned) that is different.  Companies should have SOME responsibility to at least try to create a decent base quality product.   Again though, money.  Follow the money.  If they are selling it, and not enough are complaining, they have zero motivation to change.
 
The work lays on our side, as modellers.  If your goal is to build the most accurate version of the <history sailing ship x> up front research would help decide which kit would be the best one to start from and then go from there.  Those just wanting to build an interesting subject still get to do that, even if that subject is a "likeness" or a complete facsimilie.  
 
As an example,  my wife bought me the Blue Shadow by Mamoli because it was on sale, and she thought it looked really neat. I agreed, the box picutures etc looked like a very interesting ship to build.   I read the history of it giving by Mamoli and thought it was an interesting history but there wasn't much there and I didn't care for a couple of the parts supplied so research away I went. :o :o TOTAL fabrication.    Disappointed,sure.. but didn't change the fact it was an interesting looking ship so I am bulding it with the same interest as others.     It's all in what you make of it
 
I do not discount, however, the value of a reference of sorts to point out what kits are Fakes, Accurate, Versions, Guesses or what not.  That would be one heck of an undertaking though!    An interesting and valuable undertaking for sure, but still an undertaking!  It would, however, help greatly those seeking as close to accurate as possible.  Heck, maybe even a list like that would eventually (slowly) draw away from those kits less accurate, lesser quality, or just plain garbage and steer towards those of the opposite state. Hmmmmmmm.
 
 
 
Good topic my friends!
 
 
 
-Adam

JPett,
 
I suspect you are right about "complain about the price".  Jotika and to some extent, MS and Victory models have had their share of "price is too high" along with "I want quality".   I am reminded of an old retailer I knew who said: "You can have either high-quality or low-price.  Pick one.". I find this applies to model kits... low price gets you lower quality wood, instructions, and plans and accuracy.  Higher price gets you better instructions, plans, accuracy... sometimes better wood. 
 
So kit builders upgrade their wood, fittings, get additional plans and get the same results as scratch.. sometimes it doesn't work out, other times it's a masterpiece. 
 
The catch here is that even scratchbuilders make trade-offs.  Be it plans, wood, or fittings.   Sometimes it just doesn't all come together either.  Other times it's a masterpiece. 
 
But the sentiment from the original poster is very valid.. there's too many kits from a certain group of manufacturers that are producing total fiction in absurd scales.  Scales that were designed to use existing fittings (or sometimes it seems they just toss in box whatever is available), or make the parts fit a certain size box and that dictates "scale".
 
My only comment back on accuracy is that "accuracy is what you know at the moment" and that is subject to change.  The discussion the Constitution builders have been having is a case in point.  There's contemporary paintings and models.. but which is right? 

Ahoy Mates
 
I see the cup as half full when it comes to these issues. Really how accurate is the Conny parked in Mass or the Vic across the pond. As the Morgan's timbers swell, how accurate will she be. I do not hold kit manufacturers to a higher standard. Most kits today are more accurate then their predecessors  and who knows maybe one day a truly accurate kit will be available.
 
Should that day arrive I am sure the people who complain about these issues will most likely complain about the price.