MEDDO

Not much has happened since my last post but thought I would give an update on my progress.  I have started to work on the shrouds and the first thing that I did was to make the deadeyes.  The Syren deadeyes are made up of three layers that are glued together.   I made a simple jig to hold the layers as I glued them up.
 

 
Once glued up, I separated them from the frame that was holding them.  I sanded off the laser burn on the edges being careful not to change the shape of the deadeye.  I then placed them in my Model Expo block tumbler to soften and round their edges.
 

 
Here is a picture with the deadeyes stropped with 24 gauge wire and the hooks added.
 

 
The next step was to make the straps that hold the deadeyes and nail them to the wales.  I pre-bent the straps around the molding before I installed them.  I then tried blackening them, but failed miserably.  So I wound up priming them and painting them with matte black paint.  Then I installed them per the instructions.
 

 
The next step was to use my Syren Serv-o-Matic serving machine to serve my shrouds and backstays where they are seized around the mast.  This was my first time using the machine and it worked great.  I had no problems and I am pleased with the results.
 

 
Next up is the installation of the shrouds and the backstays.

I was wondering about aspen.  I was recently at my local big box store and picked up a piece that is 48x3x1/4 inch and it is pure white with no real visible grain.  Was thinking for deck planking with no complex curves or carving it may work out well.  It is a bit soft but doesn’t seem to “fuzz” too much.  Not sure about staining/painting but for less than 4$ it was worth a try.

Very nice result John.  Cant wait to see it in person.

By the time you build your third framed model, you won't have to re-do the cant frames over at all you'll be so experienced. It will be too late to recant!
 
I notice that you tried to camouflage your bandaged thumb with the same color as your coverall. I hope it's healing  well.

It took me four months to redecorate my workshop, and then I made some tools of my own and put off the construction of the hull. For those of you who care about the progress of the ship, I'm sorry. Should be back on track by the end of the year....

Post 43: Cannon tackle
 
These were made up from Syren 3mm blocks and 3mm hooks from Dafi.  There are all sorts of jigs described on this site for siezing these.  I found it pretty difficult to achieve a neat appearance on these small blocks.
 
Here's the jig I used
 

 
The blocks were held by two copper pins epoxied into the board. Syren 0.3mm rope was threaded through the hook then around the block and held in place by slots cut into the vertical board.   short length of fly tying thread was wrapped a couple of times between the block and the hook just to keep the hook from binding on the block.
 

 
The rope was glued to the block with 50:50 PVA and when this was dry it was tied off to the back of the block with a square knot.  After sealing this with hypo cement and trimmed off with a sharp scalpel blade.  Hereare some examples
 

 
The tacles were rigged on a jig with two eyebolts and jecked on a mock up gun before rigging to the guns on the deck.
 

 

 
Finally, rope cols were made by wrapping rgw rope around a 3.6 mm dowel and sealing with 50;50 PVA
 

 

 
I am not entirely satisfied with the look.  They are pretty untidy and the blocks are very close together (as I suppose they would be).  I could have used smaller diameter ringbolts but this would only have separated the blocks about by another 0.5 mm.  The only advantage would have been that it would probably have kept the hooks in place.  I found that they slipped out of these ringbolts very easly and so it was tricky to get both rings secured.
 
John
 
 

Thanks
 
The rudder trunk is pretty straight forward.  Parts are all laser cut but will probably require minor tweaking to fit everyone's model perfectly.  There is a laser cut rectangular build jig marked with an X.  This is to help you build it squared up.  The two sides are glued to this first as shown below.  But before you do....test fit each side panel at the stern to make sure it fits.  Make adjustments to get it snug against the inboard side of the counter.  Then glue them to the side of the base jig.....keep the sides at right angles.
 

Then add the front panel....easy - peasy.
 

Then add the top.  Keep in mind that the aft edge of the top is beveled so it fits snug against the counter planking.   The top also has the slightest overhang and the edges were softened a bit.   No hard edges.   Its not glued on yet.   There will be two benches on each side of the trunk which I will make next.
 

To finish up the rudder and get it installed, it is just a matter of repeating the process of placing the hinges on the rudder post.   They are also wooden and laser cut from boxwood.  Just make sure you are carful to line them up with their partners on the rudder and angle them properly.  See below.   Once again the edges were painted black ahead of time.
 

Interesting is the fact that you will have to line up the holes in these so you can hang the rudder in place.  That is not an easy feat.  But here is a good cheat or trick.   You only really need two pins on the rudder to engage the hinges on the hull.   Just the top and bottom really need the pins engaged.  So you can literally snip them off the other hinges or not add them to begin with.  They are not seen and on a scale model dont really serve a purpose.  I did this and I bet you cant tell!!!
 
Then add long strips of 1/16" x 1/32" boxwood just ahead of the hinges to use as the straps.  Take their lengths from the plans.  This is just as we did on the rudder itself.  Paint the edges of the strips black first.
 
Once glued onto the hull with the angles all matching, you can sand them all down thinner so they look in scale.  Again, once painted and weathered they will look like metal pintels and gudgeons.
 
But look at the photo below.  At this stage I marked in pencil where the bolts should be.  Then I drilled holes for the black monofilament. I used a #73 bit.  Insert the black 20lb fishing line into the holes and snip the ends off leaving them stand proud to simulate the bolt heads.
 

Here is the finished rudder with bolt heads.  Its painted black and weathered a little bit.  Also notice the small bowtie plate under them.  This is laser cut for you out of laser board.   Bolts were simulated on this as well.
 

I also added the horse shoe plate at the bow along the gripe.  This is also laser cut for you.  A bit of weathering powders were used here also.
 

That is it for this update and now I will start on that rudder trunk and benches inboard in the great cabin.  
 

I have always liked this ship.  Very similar to the Swan class but with a full quarter galley and the added interest of the fire mechanism

I have always liked this ship.  Very similar to the Swan class but with a full quarter galley and the added interest of the fire mechanism

Very nice result John.  Cant wait to see it in person.

I have always liked this ship.  Very similar to the Swan class but with a full quarter galley and the added interest of the fire mechanism

The friction of the wheels does absorb some of the energy, but as you can see from this video, the gun does recoil until the breech line stops it.
 
 
 
 
In this video there is no breech line and the gun rolls quite a distance.
 
 

I was wondering about aspen.  I was recently at my local big box store and picked up a piece that is 48x3x1/4 inch and it is pure white with no real visible grain.  Was thinking for deck planking with no complex curves or carving it may work out well.  It is a bit soft but doesn’t seem to “fuzz” too much.  Not sure about staining/painting but for less than 4$ it was worth a try.

I was wondering about aspen.  I was recently at my local big box store and picked up a piece that is 48x3x1/4 inch and it is pure white with no real visible grain.  Was thinking for deck planking with no complex curves or carving it may work out well.  It is a bit soft but doesn’t seem to “fuzz” too much.  Not sure about staining/painting but for less than 4$ it was worth a try.

Skip forward to finish.
 
 

The rigging process continues:

 
In the picture above, the standing rigging is complete as is most of the running rigging.     I am using small clothes pins as weights for the end of some of the lines.   You can also see both yards hung in place with their running rigging mostly in place.   Its a bit of a trial and error process to get the right tension on all the braces and lifts.   Take your time.
 
Next up with be the ground tackle and raising the flag.     We are getting very close to the finish line on this project.   Its been a very enjoyable ride so far.      Until next time, be well!
 
Bill

The Schooner Yacht America was actually a smuggler at one time.  During the Civil War she was a Confederate Blockade Runner and Federal Blockaders found her in a river in Florida where she had been sunk to avoid capture.  She was refloated and placed into service with the US Navy.
 
Those who attended the 2019 NRG Conference and visited the Naval War College Museum will have been treated to a spectacular model of her in her naval guise.
 
Roger

They are one of our great sponsors and @MrBlueJacket is a member who visits frequently.  Excellent company

I’ve always like the look of this boat and I do like seeing a picture of the box art at the beginning of build logs so you can see what you are aiming for. Will be following along.

The decking begins. Not a lot new to report, just the measure, cut, fit, we’ve all done to lay a deck. This is the first time I’ve first glued the deck furniture to the false deck and the planking fitted around it. While it definitely looks better, it is also definitely more work to get the planking cut to fit.
 

 
I use Tamiya tape to fit angles and tight space, just cutting the tape to the right fit, taping that to the plank and cutting from there. I also use card stock, just depends on the piece I’m trying to fit.
 

 
While laying the first phase of the deck is straight forward, I piled up all the tools I used. It turned out to be quite the pile of stuff.  I don’t know if I’ve mentioned The Chopper and The True Sander before, I’ve got these long before my Byrnes machines. They make life easier with quick cuts (it uses a standard razor blade so easy to change) and sanding to get tight square fits. It’s one more way to sand stuff along with my sandpaper, blocks, and sticks - sooo many ways to sand…
 

 
In case you’re wondering things are even and centered, only the iPhone and the person holding it are a tilted throwing off perspective. I cut ¼ planks to have to fill the notched either side on the bread hatch, I’m sure the shades of the yellow cedar will even out as I go and once the completed deck is sanded and WOP applied.
 
So now it’s time for the planking fan and tapered planks to form the curved deck planking. This will take a while…

25% sounds great.  Now just have to choose the correct beginner setup/brush

25% sounds great.  Now just have to choose the correct beginner setup/brush

25% sounds great.  Now just have to choose the correct beginner setup/brush

Good morning and thank you all, more photos.
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Un Saluto.