mtdoramike
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Everything posted by mtdoramike
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First off, before you start making saw dust, have you received the kit yet? I have found in every kit that I have built which is getting close to 30 give or take, I have never had an issue with kit supplied wood. My recommendation to you would be to plank the model the way the directions and plans suggest you to do especially on your first model. I have seen far to many models by well intentioned people started but never finished. Planking is or can be one of the hardest parts of ship modeling until you get some of the fundamentals down that and into practice like stealer planks and fillers. You will have time to get fancy with spiling and others things once you get that first hull planking under your belt. NEVER start your planking at the bottom or false keel. Start your planking at the wales and work your way down to the keel. This way if there is an issue, it will be less noticeable on the bottom of the ship as opposed to mid-ship. Once you lay about 3-5 planks that are not tapered at the wales, then you will need to start your taper at the front and back of the hull. I try and never lay full planks because no matter the size, it's just not realistic and also it's a lot easier to get those bends and twists on those smaller pieces of planking. I may lay 3-4 planks from the stem going backward in a stair step pattern and then go back and fill in the planking towards the stern. Last thing I can suggest is when you lay a plank on one side, lay a plank on the other side as well, this keeps the keel from dis-forming on you at least until you are better than half way through the planking process and the hull and bulkheads become more stable. mike
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If you could fade the coloring and leave the white bright white, it would look more realistic. Salt air tends to brighten white cloth. But B would be the closest to what I mean. mike
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I finished the planking last night and now on to the sanding and there will be a ton of that for sure. mike
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She is looking fantastic Paul, what a beautiful representation of the Victory the Constructo kit can make with slight modifications and dedication. WOW! mike
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Thanks Daniel. It's just my point of view and I'm sticking with it> hahahahahahaha. The way I look at ship modeling is like this, it's not where you have been or where you are going, it's the journey that you take getting there that is the important part. mike
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It's a fantastic kit, it is built using the Artesania Latina kit, which I just finished. I went to Model Space website and used some of their directions when building it. I love the quality of Latina kits from their castings to their quality of wood. Most folks here are biased towards the Caldercraft Victory kit, which cost the most at about $1200.00 and I'm sure the Modelspace kit would cost about the same once all the subscription packets have been received. The thing I didn't care for with the Caldercraft kit the preformed sides, these are a real pain the butt to deal with rather than just planking the sides, which is the way Latina did it. But with all the above said, I'm a firm believer in no matter what the quality of the kit is, the kit is only the starting point of a build, the rest is research and dedication to building a fine representation of the subject you have chosen. What I mean is, you can or should be able to take a souse ear and make a silk purse out of it before you attempt a build like the Victory so materials quality isn't that important because those are things you can change. All you need is the bones of the kit to get started. Now, if you choose not to buy this kit, may I ask where and who has it in case I feel like building another Victory? But it would have to be a real good deal since you can buy the Latina Victory for about $600.00 new. Mike
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I have decided (unless a Sovereign of the seas kit drops in my lap) that the Montane's will be my last build. Now the only thing to change this would be if a ship model that I really really wanted to build before I kick the bucket like the SOS or maybe the Soliel Royal drops in my lap. BUt it would take something really tempting to change my mind on this. mike
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I have begun the lower planking again now that my left hand has healed up. I'm still missing some feeling in the index finger and portions of my thumb, but both are working so I'm back at it. One thing I have noticed is the wood used for the bulkheads isn't laminated plywood or hardwood so it's a bit hard to get anything to really stick into the bulkheads and hold really well. So I have been having to use quite a bit of fast drying glue to stick the planking down. This was one of OcCre's older kits so I'm hoping they updated the wood used for the bulkheads. mike
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Absolutely beautiful rudder and straps. I'm tempted to say they turned out so good that it was worth all the trouble you went through, but although beautiful, that was a ton of extra work hahahahahahaha. mike
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I actually like the different contrast in the wood when placed next to each other. But that might just be me. mike
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Any solid hull kit is difficult to build because of fairing the hull properly. Most folks take off too much wood and by the time they realize it, it's too late. So it's putty and filler time. You can take wood off, but you can't add it. That is why you have to use the supplied templates to check and triple check the fairing after a little sanding. To me, a solid hull is more difficult to build than a plank on frame. Plank on frame, all you have to do is lay a plank of wood, sight down the plank at each frame to determine where it needs to be shimmed and they all have to be shimmed whether it be a few or a lot. Also to me, the cheaper the cost of the kit, the harder it is to build due to substandard parts, woods and usually smaller size. mike
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I know the feeling well, I have a leg just like that. I know ahead of time that a cold front is heading our way. mike
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Well my hand is getting a bit better. I lost a bit of feeling in the index finger though and it still hurts if I put a bit of pressure with my left hand especially the index finger. I did a bit of work on the stern house, I cut and inserted a couple of pieces of grating with plastic on the back side to represent windows. But it's a work in progress. I also started putting together the gratings and boy there is quite a few of them. A few more than on the Vic. I will start the planking again shortly. mike
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Thanks for the heads up, I put in my bid for the SOS. I hope to get it as it will be most likely my last model that I will build especially as a donation piece hopefully for a children's hospital or charity. PS: well the bid topped my limit so I'm still in the hunt for a SOS. mike
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That could be Nick, it's just I have never seen walnut that light before, although it does look pretty. But of course your planking job could make a crappy inferior wood look fantastic. mike
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Beautiful job on this ship model. But the hull planking does not look like walnut, it's too light for walnut or at least it comes across that way in the pictures. mike
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I'm thrilled for you, because this is beautiful work. I want to ask if you are going to seal the gold leafing? I usually seal it when I finish to seal it and keeps it from flaking off. mike
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Yep Chris, with invent of Cad CNC and three D, also comes the counterfeiters and makes it quite a bit easier for them. I've noticed that there are a lot more counterfeit kits being offered by some no name companies than there were back in the 90's. But then again, I've noticed that there are quite a bit fewer named model companies around like there used to be back in the 90's as well. mike
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Working with Hull Planks on Model Space HMS Victory Kit
mtdoramike replied to CDW's topic in Wood ship model kits
The wood used in this kit is good quality wood that unfortunately resists being bent no matter how much you soak them. I used a pair of crimping pliers to get bends out of some of those stubborn planks. I would first soak them in boiling hot water with a little dish washing soap like Dawn with a little ammonia added to the water. I would let the planks soak over night and then while they were still wet, I would use the plank bending pliers, which helped get the proper bend and even a twisting bend is possible doing it this way. I would then apply the plank while it's still damp on the hull with super glue and nails. Then the plank can finish drying on the model. But make sure you lay a plank on each side of the model or hull as you go along as to not introduce a bow or twist in the hull once the plank dries. mike -
I received these today, too little too late I have to admit. But I'm hoping for no more cut hands. mike
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Yes, I went that evening to an Urgent care facility, they cleaned the wound and decided it didn't need stiches, so they used those butterfly type band aids to close it up and suggested I have my primary physician look at it in a few days. But he's out of town until Monday. I iced it down yesterday and last night so the swelling has come down drastically. mike
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