mtdoramike
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Everything posted by mtdoramike
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I know what you mean Tomasg, but that copper really looks sweet when it's done and the wow factor you get is way above what you get with the natural wood finish. It takes a certain person really appreciate the look of natural wood and I am one of them, which is why I plan on very little painting on this model compared to what I did to the Victory. My wife agrees with you. mike
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Hi Craig, actually the plates are 1/4" wide by 3/4" in length, which is the same size that I used on the Victory.
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I laid three rows of copper on each side and scored and was done with it within 30 minutes. So I hope to have it coppered within the next couple of days. mike
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To further answer your question, as long as the scale is right, there are on line hobby stores that have Mamoli stock and if they run out, you can use items from other manufactures as long as the scale is close. So it would be no biggie, but it's a shame if such a disaster has happened to mamoli as it has always been a fine company that made great kits and supplies. mike
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Well if you mean did they just jump up in value then NO! Kits no matter who makes them and what disaster befell the company will only bring about half of what the retail price was or is. The only real exception to this would be if a kit collector or builder really, really wanted that particular kit. mike
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That is a shame Craig, I would have thought that Michaels would sell about the same thing as Hobby Lobby. Did you check in the stained glass section, this is where I find it at Hobby Lobby, it's actually the copper foil tape that the stained glass people use on the edges of the glass where they insert it into the lead cane channels before applying the flux and solder. But either way, it's a sight better than paying a couple hundred bucks for copper plates from Cornwall and it's a lot easier to apply it. I usually apply the tape in one log piece from stem to stern and then come back and measure out the length of each plate, mark with a number 2 pencil and then score it to separate each plate. I can usually plate a hull in a couple of days. mike
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I went to the Council meeting last night and was honored with the Proclamation and while there, I also met with a news reporter, who was looking for a story and found me, so she is wanting to do I guess one of those human interest stories about the models that I have built and why I do what I do I reckon. Like I told the council last night, I didn't want all this pomp and circumstance because my motives weren't all that pure. I always wanted to build a large Victory and my house was a bit small to house such a large model. So donating it to the Library seemed like the best thing to do and I could visit the model when ever I want to. Here is a picture of me and the Mayor. I'm the fat guy in the blue shirt. Then a picture of the Proclamation. mike
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Craig, I also use this little tool to get those rivet dimples on the copper tape. It's a dress makers tool that they use to outline the pattern onto the fabric before cutting it out I believe. But it works perfect. mike
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I used to get my copper tape from Amazon, but now I get it from Hobby Lobby, which has it in like 3-4 different sizes. The Hobby Lobby has only been in Mount Dora for about a year or so, before that, it was Amazon or Ebay where I also found the copper tape.
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I have to say that the planking on this model is absolutely gorgeous when finished and is one of the prettiest hulls that I have seen on a model. My wife hates the idea of putting copper on it, but as the builder, I have the last say and copper it will be. mike
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Nope, just the copper foil tape with no added adhesive. I have never had an issue with the copper foil tape holding on the numerous ship models that I have built and coppered except one that I decided to re-do and that was because I didn't seal the hull with anything before taping and just laid the tape down on the bare planking, which I guess you could do if you really and I mean really clean the hull thoroughly, which I didn't. So after that incident, I either paint the hull first with a paint or varnish or poly first and then lay the tape over it especially if there is any major puttying to be done because unlike a bare hull that has been finished naturally, some imperfections or blemishes will disappear for the most part. But when you lay down copper, that hull had better be smoother than a babies you know what or else it will show every time. mike
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I gave it a good coat of Poly and set it outside to dry. This will seal the planking and also will allow the copper plating to stick to it especially after I rough the finish up with a little 220 grit sand paper. mike
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Fantastic work, I picked up a trick from you already and that was those wafer stacked filler blocks, it looks a lot easier to work with than cutting large filler blocks. mike
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Thank you for the kind words Paul, I'll try and post a few pictures of the council meeting Tuesday. mike
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This has got to be one of the best builds going, I love the finish you have given the wood and those strategically placed nail heads are superb. For some reason I never gave this model much thought, but after watching this build log, I'm very impressed and now I'm considering this model. mike
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Thank you Lawrence, I tried to mimic your beauty and I think I came pretty close. mike
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I have tried numerous fillers to try and match the wood color and epoxy is about the closest that I have found that dries clear without it being noticed. I have tried wood glue with sawdust, which works, but I have found that the water based glue tends to stain or mis-color the wood once an oil based poly is used on the wood. I actually use a bit more hardener in the epoxy than normally required, but the trick is to smooth it out and much as possible before it starts to set and get sticky. Then I let it dry over night and get nice and hard then I take a piece of 150 grit sand paper and smooth it out. I would be curious to know of others that use something else that works as well or better because I'm willing to try it. mike
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I just got an invitation to my Cities next council meeting, which will be next Tuesday April 19 where they are supposed to present me with a approclimation for my donation of the Victory model to the Library. mike
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Been doin me some sanding this afternoon. I got one side of her sanded with the 60 grit, then on to 150 grit and finally the 220 grit. You can see all the sawdust starting to accumulate. hahahahahaha. Hey daddy, yep I built an Xebec a few years ago with the Indiscreet, which was a kit I bought off of Ebay that had been carried around from pillar to post and was probably about 40 years old and the box showed it's age, but the contents was still usable. It went to an insurance corp CEO in CT for his kids bedroom hahahahahahaha. Hey George & Tom, weeeeellllllll, the Victory was technically supposed to be my final build, but then the OcCre Montane's showed up on the classifieds at such a great deal that I just couldn't pass it up and the Montane's was a model that I had wanted to build some day. I had just got to thinking when I was planking the Monte that I have planked more models than I could remember off the top of my head. So I pulled my ad from the classifieds looking for a Sovereign of the Seas kit. Now does this mean never, I will never say never, but I will say this. I'm not opening or actively looking for another project, but and here is the rub, I still have this itch to build the Sovereign so if one dropped into my lap there maybe a possibility, but I'm not expecting it. There are a few others that could come close to scratching that itch and that would be the Latina Santa Ana or the OcCre Santisma Trinidad, both of which I have wanted to build. Now even if I do give up tall ship modeling, I have been looking at building a few R/C radio control boats for my son in law and grandson to play with at the lake. I used to be into RC planes and built probably 20-25 planes, from a PT trainer, Sopwith Camel, Beaver really to many to recall off hand. mike
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I would like to add here that when you sand the hull after planking, make sure and DO NOT SAND MORE THAN HALF OF THE PLANKS THICKNESS, I can't stress this enough, my brother decided he would use a dremel tool with a sanding drum on it to sand down a basswood hull. You guessed, it made the planking way to thin like an eggshell. He gave up on it, but not me, I pulled most of the planking off, ordered new planking and Finished that ship model and gave it back to him. Any time I go to sand a hull of a model, I get several pieces of scrap wood and glue them together, then I start sanding with 60 grit, then 150 grit and finally 220 grit and see how long it takes me to sand down to half of the thickness of the planking and if it's an hour then I make sure and keep an eye on how much sanding I do on a hull. You will find that even the same species of wood have different hardness. Also, helpful tip, Once you are getting close to the finished product of the hull planking and find that there is a few minor cracks or dents or dips in the hull planking, get some 5 minute epoxy and collect some of that saw dust, mix it together and pack it into any little dings that you can't sand out. Once dry, sand smooth. If you are painting the hull or coppering it, you can get away with a multitude of sin, but if going natural wood finish, wood putty or wood filler would stick out like a sore thumb. I've gotten one side of the Montanes sanded with 60 grit, notice all the sawdust mike
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First off, before you start making saw dust, have you received the kit yet? I have found in every kit that I have built which is getting close to 30 give or take, I have never had an issue with kit supplied wood. My recommendation to you would be to plank the model the way the directions and plans suggest you to do especially on your first model. I have seen far to many models by well intentioned people started but never finished. Planking is or can be one of the hardest parts of ship modeling until you get some of the fundamentals down that and into practice like stealer planks and fillers. You will have time to get fancy with spiling and others things once you get that first hull planking under your belt. NEVER start your planking at the bottom or false keel. Start your planking at the wales and work your way down to the keel. This way if there is an issue, it will be less noticeable on the bottom of the ship as opposed to mid-ship. Once you lay about 3-5 planks that are not tapered at the wales, then you will need to start your taper at the front and back of the hull. I try and never lay full planks because no matter the size, it's just not realistic and also it's a lot easier to get those bends and twists on those smaller pieces of planking. I may lay 3-4 planks from the stem going backward in a stair step pattern and then go back and fill in the planking towards the stern. Last thing I can suggest is when you lay a plank on one side, lay a plank on the other side as well, this keeps the keel from dis-forming on you at least until you are better than half way through the planking process and the hull and bulkheads become more stable. mike
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