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nikbud

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Posts posted by nikbud

  1. Hi Alexis

    I have just measured the strips and you are right; the thin strips are 2mm x 5mm from the kit. the square strips are 5mm x 5mm, although they all have been very well sanded to get them very smooth so the measurements are more like 1.5 x 4.5 and 4.5x4.5.

     

    so the strips either side of the keel are 5x5 with a 3x3 small strip between them at either end. If i remember rightly i had to do a little sanding in the inside edge of the two long strips - after they had been glued together - to make the keel fit snugly. 

    I hope this made sense???

    Cheers n be safe,

    Paul

  2. On 8/13/2019 at 6:42 PM, Edwardkenway said:

    I hope you've got some Wizardwood from the Rainwilds for her. 

    I wish, Edward, but wizardwood is a bit beyond my pocket, tools  and skillset!

     

     

    I have to apologise for this late update;  the work was done back in April but I was expecting to do more work and then had forgotten that I hadn’t made an update.

     

    It looks like only a little work but most of a day was spent sanding the hull and tidying up the planking on the transom.  I have lost a little chip from the transom planking - which will be fixed after the hull is planked. I also lined the tiller hole (there must be a nautical for that!) with 0.5mm strip of maple. the whole area still needs sealing and sanding;

    3401.thumb.jpg.889f6cb93e9199bd6c4249c3049badd5.jpg

     

     

    Next was starting work on attaching stem and the keel to the hull.

    I started by drilling holes in the stem. I drilled from back to front - this was to ensure that the hole would be central to where the stem meets the hull, and any breakout on the outer surface will be covered by the false keel strip;

     

     

    3402.thumb.jpg.b3de4c548c1e5913ad982d0986c93aac.jpg

     

     

    Once the holes were drilled I inserted pins in the holes and offered the stem up to the hull.

    These pins will mark where I will drill holes in the hull. The pins will then be CA’d into the holes and thus the stem, and keel, will create the rabbet for the single layer planking.

     

     

    3403.thumb.jpg.c424e49ae79be4c96abfecbb276a4765.jpg

     

     

    Unfortunately that is where progress has stalled. and will probably remain stalled possibly until next year.

     

    Most of my summer was taken up with repeated medical investigations and worry, and the last month and the next 3-4 months have been/will be taken up with the associated medical treatment. Luckily the treatment should result in a cure. I may be well enough to do the odd bit of work in the shipyard, but with the intensity of treatment ramping up within the next three weeks , it’s likely that I won’t be well enough.

     

    I do apologise to all of you who have followed, liked, commented or even just read this log, I WILL return, and I WILL finish this ship.

    I will also try and be more active on this forum, so c’mon guys, get building!

     

    Cheers,

    Paul

     

  3. Hi everyone, this not a kit but it is made in wood so I hope it counts.....

     

    I used to love playing the board game Mastermind - "A game of cunning and logic for two players - Break the hidden code!" when I was a kid and I recently introduced my 12 year old daughter into the joys of said cunning and logic. The original game had 4 holes to encode and after playing this for a while we decided to purchase from ebay the super 5 hole version. Unfortunately, upon arrival the game stank of age/mildew etc, so I made my own from (hopefully) spare wood from my Vivacia build.

     

    The bottom box is made from 3mm board for the base and 4mm birch ply sides. 

    The top box from; 4mm birch ply for the playing surface, 5mm walnut for the sides, 2mm lime strips and .5mm maple for the edging. the code cover was made from 1mm basswood sheet.  I know the holes aren't perfectly straight but its unnoticeable while playing.

     

    masterm1.thumb.jpg.efb4103db163e2a07be976cf3a30682f.jpg

     

    masterm2.thumb.jpg.5d2ffff15b92428e4bc8e3f545323cd2.jpg

     

    masterm3.thumb.jpg.f18a428ad4514bcff54ba0b5c14aad9d.jpg

     

    masterm4.thumb.jpg.b541a4574839e808583f74f7a52dca6e.jpg

    Cheers, Paul

  4. Another vote for the Aztec, I found it extremely easy to clean.

    Almost all of the plastic models shown in the link in my sig were airbrushed with the Aztec.

    As others have said practise, and then practise some more. Check out some Armor/Aircraft modelling websites and model railroad ones too.

    The most important thing for me was getting a water trap fitted between the compressor and the airbrush, I had horrible spitting without it.

  5. 8 hours ago, Matt D said:

    I'm not sure I want to talk about this, but I'm thinking about making my own sails for this model.  The main rub for me is the giant ugly hems on the factory sails.  I was looking at the photos in the kit and they have nice narrow hems like yours.  I have the right fabric and I bought a light tan thread to use that will give just a bit of contrast.  One thing that has held me back is the line that runs around the outside of each of the factory sails.  I wasn't sure I could attach them to the ship correctly without the built-in lines.  I see that you've made it work without that line and I can now see how your sails are attached.  So I'm inching closer to breaking out the old Singer.  It's probably one evening of sewing and I'm afraid I'll regret it if I don't.

     

    Hi Matt, she is looking good!

     

    I too made my own sails, out of handkerchiefs! A word of caution, don't make them too big, I did and had to skimp on some of the rigging.

    With the "bolt rope" - the line around the edge of the sails - I simply glued it on. I can't remember if I soaked the line in pva and then stuck it to the sail or if I used a thin bead of pva on the sail and stuck the line to that. Either way should work. Sewing the bolt rope to the sail looked too out of scale, although I did sew a little in the corners to reinforce the loops (clews/cringles???) for the rigging.

     

    Good luck!

  6. Personally I wouldn't bother with a needle threader, you end up having to pull twice the thickness of thread through the hole. Just put some CA on the end of the thread - about 1cm - let it dry and cut the tip to a point.

    Are you using the correct thread for the blocks? It looks a little thick- more like the thread meant for the standing rigging.

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