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Jack12477

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Everything posted by Jack12477

  1. Jack12477
    Nicely done. Piet.
  2. Jack12477
    I think I will pull up a chair and watch also.
  3. Jack12477
    I echo what others said above. Very nice model. I love the color scheme you chose.
  4. Jack12477
    Gil, absolutely amazing and beautiful - your workmanship is inspiring. I've learned a lot from your build log. Thanks for sharing it with us. Beautiful photography as well. May I ask what the overall dimensions of the finished model are?
  5. Jack12477
    Well, finally making progress. Mast, boom & gaff installed and rigged. Took apart a scrap piece of rail molding and used the posts as supports, used an old wood plague for the base, put a coat of MinWax English Chestnut stain on everything. Mounted the boat temporarily for picture purposes. Now on to the deadeyes and shrouds.
  6. Jack12477
    Stuntflyer, thanks for the link. At $179.99 I could have bought two, maybe three, of those packages. In January 2009 I paid less than $65 for both the Dremel 300 rotary tool AND workbench as one package. Even with inflation that's one hellavu price increase. UPDATE: I just did an online search and a found a full size Black & Decker Workmate 225 for $74.99. Dremel's table-top workbench vise is modeled after B&D full size workmate.
  7. Jack12477
    Ditto on the well-wishes, Jesse. Sail look great. Nice job.
  8. Jack12477
    I have that same Dremel workbench and love it. It came as a "package" deal some time ago (Loews carried it), you bought the Dremel rotary tool and got the workbench as a bonus. Have not seen them anywhere since, not even on Dremel's website. Too bad they don't still offer it because it is a great workbench. P.S. - Augie great job on the model. Looking really nice.
  9. Jack12477
    Divarty, I also used a small awl and hand drill to get the hole started, then switch to my small WeeCheer (Dremel-like) drill to complete the task, using only the weight of the tool. The drill cut a clean hole. It was went I tried to trim it back to length and attach it to the mast that the piece broke right at the drilled hole. The hole doesn't leave enough metal to keep the piece strong enough to not break. I'll have to look up what diameter a #78 drill is and compare it to mine, which are all labeled in fractions of a millimeter. Update: Looks like the drill bit I've been using is a #73 or possibly a #74. I little bit larger than your #78.
  10. Jack12477
    Well, I'm making some progress. Mast and bowsprit have been fashioned but those brass irons are a b*tch to drill a hole in without breaking the brass right where the hole is drilled. The flat brass strip is 1/64" x 1/32" and is way to narrow (1/32) to drill a hole in without it breaking. 1/32 translates to .034" my smallest drill bit (I can use without breaking the drill bit) is .023" or .59mm. Doesn't leave enough meat on the strip after the hole is drilled. So far out of 6 bands I made and drilled 5 have broken. I'm about to abandon the drilling part and jury-rig a different solution. These are the bands that go on the mast and bowsprit. If the band was 1/16 instead of 1/32 I probably wouldn't have this problem. Anybody got any suggestions? I may be shutting down the shipyard for a brief period - the river has frozen over and the ice yachts are being assembled - while I do a little "HARD" water sailing.
  11. Jack12477
    Thank you, Michael, much appreciated. I almost tossed it in the wood pile after that screw-up. Glad now that I didn't.
  12. Jack12477
    Outstanding ! Beautiful !
  13. Jack12477
    You're still light years ahead of me, Michael. I would not even know where to begin doing what you've already accomplished. Having spent a 30+ year career on the "bleeding edge" of computer technology myself, I can empathize. As many have said previously, you are blazing new ground and educating all of us in the process. Your workmanship is amazing and truly inspiring. We are all enjoying the journey with you, including the occasional stumbles along the way.
  14. Jack12477
    Me too ! Love the "fancy rope" on the tiller. I have a [uS] Coast Guard friend who does fancy rope as a hobby. It's really beautiful workmanship- yours and his.
  15. Jack12477
    Carl, thanks but no it's an applied paper decal - comes with the kit. The side friezes are also a paper "decal"
  16. Jack12477
    Well, I finally got back into the shipyard after taking some time off for the holidays to be with children and grandchildren. And also take part in the Ice Yacht Expo at [President] Franklin Delano Roosevelt's Home and Library in Hyde Park. Our ice yacht club (Hudson River Ice Yacht Club - HRIYC) has the largest collection of historic stern steering ice yachts in the world, and they are actively sailed when ice and weather permits. But back to the build. Made some progress in spite of the time off. Had a helluva time with the rudder spindles; those little wires pins wouldn't adhere to the brass even with CA and Accelerator, but I finally succeeded in getting the attached. Pictures follow:
  17. Jack12477
    Nicely done, Michael. Very impressive! Nice informative video as well.
  18. Jack12477
    Here's a better shot: At my advanced age it takes quite a while for the neurons to bring the "learned photography tricks" out of archival storage and into current active memory . In the old days of film photography when you needed to cut the light output from the electronic flash you could use a white handkerchief and drape it over the flash unit. In the case above I folded the handkerchief twice so I had two layers of cloth to diffuse the light output. Worked pretty good.
  19. Jack12477
    Well, some progress. I decided to leave the thwarts as specified in the instructions but enlarged the mast thwart a little. Sorry the lighting is dark, these point and shoot digital camera don't have a way of cutting the flash output. When I use the built-in flash at this close range it completely washes out the image.
  20. Jack12477
    Per, I think the instructions are incorrect. When I lay the individual strips of wood on the drawings, the 5/32" fit exactly while the 1/8 is too narrow. I guess I will fiddle with it and see which is visually more acceptable.
  21. Jack12477
    I've run into a bit of a quandary in my build. I'm at the point of constructing the thwarts and I am finding a discrepancy between the printed instructions and the plans. The instructions call for 1/8 x 1/32 for 7 of the thwarts and 3/16 x 1/32 for the mast thwart. The plans show the thwarts as 5/32 wide with the mast thwart 1/4" wide at the widest and 5/32" at the narrowest. Has anyone else encountered this discrepancy and if so how do you solve it? Are the instructions wrong or is the plan drawing off ?
  22. Jack12477
    It's not a Dremel chuck you need but the interchangeable collets that go into the chuck. I have a Dremel 395 and 3001 and both fit the Workstation. They "clamp" in via threading on the "nose" of the drill. A ring is unscrewed and the dremel is then screwed into the workstation and router/shaper station. I have both the "old" Dremel and the new Dremel and use them both interchangeably The collets look like these http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories/Pages/SubCategories.aspx?catid=2005&catname=Chucks+%26amp%3b+Collets and are not that expensive.
  23. Jack12477
    I use the Dremel Workstation as a drill press. It's available thru MicroMark http://www.micromark.com/dremel-workstation,8556.html Dremel has collets that take even the smallest drill bits. Mine works fine for model work.
  24. Jack12477
    ditto mine !
  25. Jack12477
    I have to echo EdT's words. Michael, superb ! And the video is very informative, thanks for including it.

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