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Jack12477

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Everything posted by Jack12477

  1. Jack12477
    When planking the deck I use the Elmer's glue for dark woods - it leaves a nice dark line between planks
  2. Jack12477
    Nice looking boat. I like the ribbed thwarts. P.S - Welcome back.
  3. Jack12477
    Rich I use these to get into the small spaces especially the belaying pins http://www.modelexpo-online.com/product.asp?ITEMNO=MS111-A I find the a great help
  4. Jack12477
    I agree with Mark. Also the Pfeil brand (Swiss) of gouge is excellent as is Soligen (Germany) - I have several of each brand. Another brand which I have not tried but is reported to be very good is Two Cherries (Germany). A source for carving tools is Chipping Away Dedicated to Wood Carvers
  5. Jack12477
    Michael, amazing ! Glad to hear Judy is improving.
  6. Jack12477
    Michael, those are amazing ! Your machining skills are incredible ! P.S Hope your wife is doing better with her health.
  7. Jack12477
    Chuck, could you explain here how you use the "fan" ? The camera angle on the video blocked the view and the audio is difficult to hear.
  8. Jack12477
    Chuck, thanks for posting the pictures. Now I "see" what you are talking about. Great looking planking ! I'm still trying to get mine to look like yours.
  9. Jack12477
    Very impressive, Dave ! Nicely done !
  10. Jack12477
    Brian the Badger brand single action airbrush should be fine. I used one for years on my plastic models. The Badger comes with 3 interchangeable heads, fine., medium, and heavy. The fine head is for paint with a very fine pigment - like the original Floquil paints. The medium and heavy heads are for the thicker pigmented paints. I would classify ME paint as THICK or HEAVY. I've used it with a [paint] brush and have had to water it down to the consistency of weak tea to get the brush control I wanted. (BTW ME paint is NOT my preferred paint brand). Check your airbrush and see what tip it has. You should be able to buy the extra heads at any good art supply store (not Michaels). I used to interchange mine depending on the paint I was using at the time. Of the top of my head I don't remember the thinning ratios - it has been too long now. But it has to be very thin, maybe even the consistency of 1% or even skim milk. I do remember they are "tricky" to use but once you get the hang of it they work really well and do a nice job of coverage.
  11. Jack12477
    Thanks for posting the two videos, Chuck. Very informative. I did consider joining your NJ Club until I did a Google map to see where you meet. It's over a 2 hr drive for me - one way. I just wish there was a club closer.You are right about the up-close collaboration. I do have a local woodcarving club that I belong to and learning from the masters has helped my carving immensely. Wish I could do the same for my boat building.
  12. Jack12477
    Chuck, a trick I learned to kill some of the intensity of the flash is to drape an ordinary white handkerchief over the flash's lens. You'll have to experiment to determine how many fold(s) of handkerchief you need to get the right intensity. Also some external flash units have the ability to cut the output by 1/2 or 1/4, especially if they are the TTL type and you're using an SLR camera. Brian is right about the "daylight" vs "tungsten" light temperatures in Kelvin, except I think sunlight is 5600K and tungsten is 3200 K.
  13. Jack12477
    I have one also - a small 6x8 and a larger 12x14. Works great !
  14. Jack12477
    Nice work Augie. Great looking model.
  15. Jack12477
    "color" and "collar" are pronounced differently - at least in the USA
  16. Jack12477
    My first ship was also an AL - Morgan's Whale boat. Since then I have built 4 more and I have 2 more waiting to be built. All in all I have had no problems. As Keith said above the wood is very good, the laser cuts parts are accurate, and the finished model looks great. The first 2 models I did the English instructions were good, but I think in some of their more recent kits they have outsourced the Spanish to English translation to someone who is not that proficient in English because some of the wording makes no sense. As to historical accuracy or whether the model is fictitious, well that all depends on what you expect from the kit. If you want to build a really nice looking model of an "old" sailing ship, and want the challenge of planking and rigging them, and is somewhat accurate to the period,then they make some really nice models. But on the other hand, if you are a stickler for historical accuracy, accurately rigged and/or configured, or want a ship that actually existed, then maybe some of AL's kits aren't for you. Personally I've had more trouble with Model Shipways kits and cursed them (kits) the whole time I was building - notably the Sultana, Phantom, Morgan and Niagara, than I ever had with AL or Amati. I like AL and Amati kits, but that's my personal taste. The one exception to Model Shipways kits are the ones designed by Chuck (Passaro) with instructions written by him, those I've enjoyed building. I think both Keith and Mark summed it up quite succinctly
  17. Jack12477
    Magnificent, Ed !
  18. Jack12477
    Thanks. Didn't think of the hole saw.
  19. Jack12477
    Jay, where did you get the wooden spools shown in post #664 above? I've been looking for something similar and nobody seems to make them anymore.
  20. Jack12477
    I built the Artesania Latina Armed Virginia Sloop (see Gallery pics of finished model) and enjoyed it very much. Nice kit, reasonably challenging. It's double planked as are most AL kits. Have not seen the Sherborne so I can't comment. My source for AL kits is Tower Hobbies. Good prices and speedy shipping. Have no complaints. PS: The Syren in my opinion is very advanced. I need more practice before I attempt to tackle that kit. But it is a beautiful kit/ship.
  21. Jack12477
    If the 18th Century Longboat is too small for your taste, may I suggest the Model Shipways 21ft English Pinnace 1:24 Scale also designed by Chuck. The Syren is a beautiful kit, which I plan to build some day. I echo @ccoyle's advice. Whatever you choose, enjoy and create a Build Log here so we can all follow along, and provide help when needed.
  22. Jack12477
    If the instructions are/were written by Chuck Passaro, they are excellent. Anybody else then it's a crap shoot - some are good, some vague and some downright lousey. I've had good experiences with Artesania Latina and mixed experiences with Model Shipways (mostly don't like their instructions because most of the instruction booklets appear as if they are "cookie-cutter" developed). In all cases, the plans were pretty good. Midwest is also extremely good, especially for beginners. A nice first time POB (or POF), in my opinion, is the 18th Century Longboat by Model Shipways designed by Chuck Passaro with excellent instructions written by Chuck. I just finished that model and it was a lot of fun to build. (Thanks Chuck !) IMHO.
  23. Jack12477
    Joe, Golden Acrylics makes a water soluable Yellow Ochre in a 2 oz tube. I believe Liquitex also makes a water soluable Yellow Ochre. Not sure about Red Ochre tho. I found mine in a Michaels craft store. Any Art Supply store should carry both brands. I've used both brands on wood and they work fine.
  24. Jack12477
    Ryan: Thanks ! Yes, it did come out nice. Tuffarts: Thanks ! Those "boys" in the background are Byers Choice (Collectibles) Carolers which my Admiral collects. She gave me the sailors to go with my ships.
  25. Jack12477
    Ok, grappling hook installed. Model is now complete and taking its place with the rest of the fleet. Getting a little crowded !

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