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Jack12477

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  1. Jack12477
    Looking at photos #7 & 8 above of the cabins (overhead views) reminds me of the cabins my wife and I stayed in some many years ago when we cruised on the Nathanial Bowditch out of Rockland ME. Bunks were attached directly to the side of the hull. Great time tho.
  2. Jack12477
    Grant, Richard, pose that question to Ken Foran (his build log is US Brig Niagara by xken - Model Shipways - Scale 1/64 ); he's written a great book on Modeling in Brass. Should be able to answer any soldering questions.
  3. Jack12477
    I take a piece of string loop one end around the mast and loop a deadeye around the other end at the approximate distance from the installed deadeyes, clamp the deadeye in the string, then swing it back and forth checking the alignment with those installed on the channel. If it looks good, I leave it; if not move them slightly. Use a pencil to put a tick mark on the channel.
  4. Jack12477
    Bill, I have to echo the remarks above. Your detailed furniture, sails, bin, barrels, etc are amazing. Great looking model.
  5. Jack12477
    Mine too ! (The Killians that is). Nice work on the bucket.
  6. Jack12477
    Jay, I'm a bit late to the party but I really like the burning coal effect in your stove a couple of post back. Ditto the cooking gear above. Very nice !
  7. Jack12477
    Thanks, Dave, got it downloaded.
  8. Jack12477
    I agree with Kurt - get Chuck's Syren rope, it's great. I bought some from him at the show in CT a few months ago. Prior to Chuck's rope I was replacing all of the MS kit supplied rope with Artensania Latina's rope which is many orders of magnitude better than what Model Shipways supplies. As my AL rope runs out I will replace it with Syren rope. Ken, to answer your question, I glue my cannons to the deck after I attach the rigging. I use a small amount of the very thin CA applied right alongside the wheels and let capillary action draw it under the wheel. So far none of my cannons have come loose from the deck.
  9. Jack12477
    Nick, nice cart - wish I had seen this before I purchased my mass-produced file cabinets from Lowes Dave, nice plans - what edition of Woodsmith Magazine are they in ?
  10. Jack12477
    Thanks for the tutorial. Nicely done.
  11. Jack12477
    Mark, thanks for taking the time and effort to post your experiences with the LaserKnife. I like the nameplate - nice looking - ditto the Arms of France piece. What micro chisels are you using to do the bas relief carving on the Arms?
  12. Jack12477
    Ken, very nice. Now I see how your jig works. Thanks for posting the photos.
  13. Jack12477
    Looks very nice Mike. Nice progress.
  14. Jack12477
    Nicely done, Brian
  15. Jack12477
    Mark, I am in total agreement with what George said.above. If this man was indeed a "reputable businessman" he would have addressed you by name not some slur; he would have come right out and identified himself as the owner, President and CEO of Micromark and offered his rebuttal. Instead he stooped to the lowest denominator, pretending to be an "offended but satisfied customer", and launched into a personal attack. I've given his company an awful lot of business ($$$) in the last year; not so sure I want to spend any more money on his products. In my opinion your review of his product has been very professionally done and presented in a professional manner to the modeling public. I thank you. Maybe he should be reminded of those immortal words of our late President Harry S Truman - "If you can't stand the heat, get the hell out of the kitchen"
  16. Jack12477
    Thanks, Chuck, for pointing out his true identity and relationship to the company. I hate it when company owners hide their identity when they reply to a product critique they find objectionable and make their reply seem to come from another consumer.
  17. Jack12477
    Ken, post pictures of how you use this jig. It's very interesting and cleverly built.
  18. Jack12477
    I agree with George, Mark. Looking very good !
  19. Jack12477
    Great idea, Mario
  20. Jack12477
    Dennis, here's a link on the first suggestion Make Your Own Aluminum Foil Reflector - White foam core works also.
  21. Jack12477
    Dennis, no spraying won't work. It's not reflective enough. Aluminum foil is best. A "poor man's" substitute would be a PURE WHITE card - it has to be white or it will change the color of the light in turn affecting the color(s) of the ship. Don't want to take over your build log with a tutorial on photographic lighting; if you want more info send me a PM.
  22. Jack12477
    Dennis; here's an old photographers trick. Take a small piece of cardboard (fairly stiff), place a sheet of plain old shiny aluminum foil over the face of it, wrap over the sides and tape off. Make sure the foil on the face is as smooth as you can get. Make a couple. Place them on the bench to each side of the model with the foil facing the model - you want to reflect the light (ambient) back into the dark spaces on the model - experiment a little till you get the hang of it. Card stock can be 4 x 6, 5 x 7 or 8 x 10 or whatever is suitable to your space. Prop the reflectors up on an angle - generally 40-45 degrees.
  23. Jack12477
    Dennis, re: lighting: If your camera is not a DSLR type but has a built-in pop-up flash, try using it with a layer of either handkerchief or Kleenex type tissue over the flash - you will have to experiment a little to determine the number of folds to use - but it will cut the intensity of the light so you can move in close for macro use. Make sure the handkerchief/tissue is WHITE or it will take on the color of the material. What Sam (SRC) says above is another solution.
  24. Jack12477
    I wasn't around for MSW 1 either so I will pull up a barrel and sit and watch
  25. Jack12477
    May I also add my Welcome back Nenad. I am glad to see the healing process has begun for you.

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