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Jack12477

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Everything posted by Jack12477

  1. More photos this morning: After looking at the boat again and comparing it to other member's models, I think I made the first plank a little to low at the bow (clamping problem ?). Didn't see it till I was finished. Easy correction I think is to just add an additional plank above and then taper it with my miniature plane down to the stern. Since the friezes will be applied over it I doubt the mistake will be even noticed. Comments anyone, before I move on ????? After removing the centers and sanding them down:
  2. After reading all the build logs of other members, I decided to get this kit and start building it before I start all the other model kits in dry dock. This is my first build log so please bear with me while I become accustomed to this system. First the customary opening photos: Laying the keel. (The miniature shoulder plane really works and is great for small parts) Building the frames: Planking underway: Planking completed: I think the planks are either set too low or the frames need trimming down ? (Always have trouble getting the first plank set at the right level below the bulkhead/frame top edge.)
  3. Yep, I use them all the time when I'm doing my woodcarving. They've saved my hand/fingers many times.
  4. Ed, have you tried using Mozilla's Firefox? I use it exclusively and have no problems. But them I'm a die-hard and am still on Windows XP. My Admiral has Windows 7 on her laptop with Mozilla Firefox and I had no problems accessing or posting to MSW from her laptop (while my laptop was getting a new fan installed)
  5. I see an ad for the Franklin Institute of Rochester NY - an early predecessor to the present day Rochester Institute of Technology.
  6. This portable vise from Sjoberg is pretty handy also. I think it's around $100 (USD)
  7. Woodcraft carries that same brand in two smaller sizes - one about 3 foot long and the other about 5 foot long - the smaller one is called Hobby Plus 850 and is priced around $360 (USD) - I picked up the smaller one about a year ago on one of Woodcraft's year end sales. Perfect for model work in a small work area. Has all the features of the larger sized ones. They are made in Sweden by Sjobergs. Am very satisfied with mine. The larger one is the Hobby Bench 1340 and is priced around $412 (USD) Hobby Plus 850
  8. I go to Jo-Anns or some other Fabric/Arts & Crafts store and get Beading Needles - the kind use to string beads - they are flexible metal wire with a loop in one end that collapses as you pull the thread (line) through the whole in the deadeye or block. The come in packs of 8-10 and are relatively inexpensive and last for quite a while.
  9. Mike When we opened the restored 1869 Saugerties Lighthouse back in 1990 we had, on loan from the Elco Electric Launch Co, an Elco electric launch very similar to the one in your photos above that ferried visitors to and from our Lighthouse during that summer/fall season. Elco as you will recall is the company that built the WWII PT boats, amongst other Yachts. The company is still in existence about 25-30 miles north of me in Athens NY. The photo below is one of their electric launches, similar to the one they loaned us. Looking forward to seeing your completed model.
  10. Chuck, what thickness of brass do you recommend using to create the shaper ?
  11. Mike Were you able to get the results you wanted with this bit? Jack
  12. Mike, That's the one. There's also a narrower version of that bit, 1/8" , depending on how wide you want the lap. Have fun ! Glad I could help. Yes, sometimes the CS folks can be a little clueless. Jack
  13. Mike Couldn't view the video - guess it's for subscribers only. To answer your original question about half lap joints - yes, I believe you could use the Dremel Shaper table with either the #650 1/8 " or #654 1/4 " straight bits to achieve a half lap. Dremel's website shows this result for these two bits. So if you move the bit over to the side more it should result in a half lap joint. From my experience just playing with the Shaper table you will definitely need two feather boards - one to as a hold-down and one to hold it against the cutter. But as Mike Mott points out, this is probably a lot of setup for just a couple pieces. If you are doing many pieces it will probably be less time comsuming. Jack Update: I just checked a little further on Dremel's website and found this picture associated with the #654 1/4" straight bit which is, I think, exactly what you want to do.
  14. Mark Yes, I knew about them but I checked Micro-Mark's latest catalog. Those washers are only for #80463 Original Table Saw. And they only work with their 80 tooth blade. Their website says the Original Table Saw is "out-of-stock, discontinued, no longer available". They only offer their new Microlux Digital Saw #85870. It's unclear from their catalog whether those washers will work with the new saw. The only accessory listed that has an option for both Original and Digital saw is the Sliding Table for Crosscuts. All the other accessories are "only for Original Table Saw #80463". Yes, slow, multiple passes will work. It works on 1:1 table saws I still think the Dremel jig will work; it's just a case of figuring out how to rig it and making a feather board to keep the wood aligned to the fence. Jack
  15. Rich If you care to give your hammocks a more authentic ship's aroma, try soaking them in Hu-Kwa tea - a Formosan Lapsang Souchong Tea. "HU-KWA tea gains its distinctive flavor and smoky tang from the burning pine wood over which it is fired during the final drying process of the tea leaf." A friend of mine and fellow modeller drinks only tea and calls Hu-Kwa the "Stockholm Tar tea" because of the aroma it produces during brewing. (did I hear "creosote"? :D ) It's one of his preferred teas I've been thinking of trying on my rigging line to see what results I get (both color and aroma) By the way, it's pretty tasty also. Jack
  16. Mike Dremel makes a bit to cut a square bottom slot/dado - comes in two sizes.The bit is included in their "router" multi-bit package (U-veiner, Chamfer, Round-over, Cove, and two straight bits - if I recall correctly). I have not tried this yet but I'm thinking that if you use the wider of the two bits and adjust the fence on your Dremel jig just right, you could get the same results as using a true rabbetting bit. (Too bad they don't carry one - I seem to recall they had one way back when - like their table top bench vise which you can no longer find.). I don't know of any table saw maker that makes a scale dado set, which is really what we need for these many miniature tables saws (e.g Byrnes - which I agree is a wee bit outside my budget) Try experimenting with your current Dremel jig. My workshop is under going some need reorganization and clean-up right now or I would try playing with mine. Jack
  17. Mike Just found your post. Re: the Dremel router jig you have. Try getting a rabbett bit for the router. Dremel makes a variety of "woodworking" bits individually and packaged. I have a selection. They do work, but you need to practice on scrape to get the right layout. I have the same jig you displayed. Have't done any rabbet cuts but have done some round over cuts. Jack
  18. Mark, Thanks for the lead. I've been looking for this website for a week now after I say the server on Gil Middleton's build log. Jack
  19. :D Gil, if by that you mean number of completed kits!?! Yes, I have a lot of practice making a lot of mistakes. None of my finished models holds a candle to your in-progress Victory. Planking and rigging are my weak points and I have been paying close attention to your methodology as I hope it will help me improve my own. Your skills are impressive. Thanks for the compliment tho. Hope you enjoyed your cruise. Jack
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