Jack12477

Looks like I got here before Lou.  Taking front row center seat.

Just now, Egilman said:

Cameras are a whole world unto themselves....

Tell me !  I got my 1st 35mm camera in 1954, Kodak 35mm, upgraded to Pentax H3 SLR in 1960, then Pentax SP500, then Pentax K1000 (2 of them).  Now I have a Pentax iST 35mm and Pentax K50 DSLR.  All the cameras work fine still except the K50 which has an electronics problem. My Canons are just pocket cameras for grab and go, or models photos since the K50 is down.  And, yes, I have a 35mm darkroom in basement, mostly for B&W.  

The Canon DSLRs are real good, got my oldest granddaughter one of those packages, she loves it. Does some good work with it.

2 hours ago, Egilman said:

2.2mpx.

Yep, definitely time to move up.

My advice: look for one that has in addition to macro, spot and center weighted metering and spot and center weighted focusing. Yo can find these features on point and shoot cameras as well as the DSLRs.  I have a Canon pocket which has these features, very easy to use and very handy and not restricted to Macro focus either. 

Great finish, OC. Love the camo and overall color. Your Dad would be proud. Nice tribute to him

Nice finish ! 

Re camera: Does it have a close-up setting? Usually indicated with a flower ? If so, select it before moving in close.  Also look for a spot focus or center weighted focus setting !  Most of the point and shoot digitals have these settings. 

Jim, I've been quietly enjoying your paintings too. And I will be 79 in a couple weeks.  Amazing body of work. 

I built the Fletcher DD445, USS The Sullivans and USS England last year as themselves - not bashed into another ship, except I painted the England in the dazzle camo of the USS Slater - great kits.  Did add some PE to them as well. 

1 hour ago, lmagna said:

Do you mean Kenco

In my area, Kenco is a locally owned Sporting Goods store. You know, hiking, camping hunting, fishing, kayaking et al ! 😁  

13 minutes ago, Old Collingwood said:

Lou is on the left and Lou is on the right  easy to tell the difference  because Lou is not on the left he is on the right and Lou is on left,  yep thats right.🤪

 

OC.

Hey Abbott !  😁

I'm here too, Craig! Just trying to find my periscope so I can see over Lou 😁😁 

1 hour ago, Canute said:

Hey, the USPS still has a shot to screw that timetable up. I ordered parts from Hannant's, in the UK. It was out there door and shipped out of the UK in 3 days. It ended up in LA ten days later and then took (Slow) Pony Express back to the East Coast.  Took 2.5 weeks. Ordered parts (CBU cans primarily) from the 48ers, on Malta. Took 10 days.

Could be the difference between the Maltese Falcon and American Carrier Pigeon 😁  <ok, I'll get my coat and leave now >

11 hours ago, Egilman said:

Now that would be something, but it would require at least two feet for the tail height and five feet of length to get the entire tail ramp in 1/35th scale..... (and a wall for it to stick out of)

 

{chuckle}

Me thinks my brother doth exaggerate a wee bit  

My M16 dio measures 9 inches by 12 inches, the church is 8 inches high, military figures 2 inches high, making the church about 24 feet high (4 times height of figure),  assuming the figure is 6 ft, likewise the Sherman with villa is 12 inches by 12 inches with a villa 24 feet high in 1/35 scale. 

<sigh>  

Update : According to Wikipedia, the Horsa glider had the following dimensions

• Wingspan 88 feet
• Length 67 feet
• Height 19 feet 6 inches

So in scale height 19 ft 6 inches is about 3.25 times the height of 6 foot scale figure  or 6.5 inches tall. Depicting the "broken" fusalage would require only about 3 or 4 inches in length by about 7 inches in overall height. 

Hmmmm 

<double sigh>

Or something like this. Don't have to show the whole glider.

https://images.app.goo.gl/DM6HYw2TiBy8Xx1eA

There's also "forced perspective" dioramas.........   might not require as big a footprint..... challenging .... 

3 minutes ago, Egilman said:

Had everyone confused for a while....

Me included!  I didn't know about the rebranding. I've only known it as Pledge.  Saw an article in FineScale Modeler back awhile about using Pledge floor wax - had to go to Wally-world to find it tho.

Nice build ! Nice model ! 

Now when do we get to see the diorama of the crash landed glider with the jeep and gun exiting the tail ?   😊😊😊

24 minutes ago, Tom E said:

Pledge?

The furniture spray?

 

Tom E 

No ! It's the liquid Tom.  I'll try to find my photo of the bottle for you.

Ah ! Found it !  This is what I use to gloss coat anything  - including my two car models and the Coast Guard helo

7 minutes ago, Tom E said:

Is that the gloss coat from Micro set or a different brand?

It is Microscale Gloss or you can also use Pledge or Future acrylic floor wax. Both work well. EG  was referring to Future floor polish. 

6 hours ago, Egilman said:

agree with Jack also, but would substitute Future for gloss overcoat

I use Future also as the undercoat for decals or  Microscale Gloss. It just depends on situation. I have been using Pledge/Future more frequently lately.   Pledge or Future, same acrylic  floor polish just different brand names. 

Tom, there are 4 solutions SET, SOL, FLAT, GLOSS. SET and SOL are used to set the decal and make it snuggle down over surface details. SOL is slightly stronger solution than SET and is used to get the "stubborn" decals to snuggle down. FLAT and GLOSS are used to seal the decals after they dry and give as their name implies a flat or glossy appearance. GLOSS  can be applied over flat paint finish to give the decal a gloss surface to adhere to, then seal it after the decal dries. 

I generally have a set of old paint brushes I dedicate to applying these products. They are pretty straight forward to use. Apply the decal to the surface, then using a brush apply a small amount of SET over the decal until it snuggles down over the detail, less is better, then let it dry. Use SOL if the decal is thick and doesn't snuggle down using SET.

You should buy all 4  solutions. Most hobby stores carry them, but you can also order them from MicroMark online.  

Thanks, Mike !

Well guys, I am going to declare these two Sherman builds with their respective dioramas complete. Thanks everyone for following along, your Likes, comments, critiques, suggestions and all, were greatly appreciated. 

I am not sure what I will do next, might decide to do some woodcarving instead of model building. I haven't done any carving in a couple of years now, might be time to resume. At least I can sit outside and make shavings instead of being hole up in the basement. 

Stay tuned ! 

5 minutes ago, cog said:

Missing fingers ... if you are lucky you've got a middle finger left

3 minutes ago, Edwardkenway said:

But don't the empty glove fingers get in the way 🤔

Funny, guys !  No I am not missing any fingers. ! 

But I am a woodcarver and wear a cut restant glove on the hand holding the piece I'm carving, and yes the knife has slipped and sliced across the glove but not my hand, no blood, no cut, just a damaged glove..  They are made with Kevlar fibers woven. 

19 minutes ago, Old Collingwood said:

And wear mittens  - "Must wear mittens"😁

 

OC.

No, use the cut resistant gloves woodcarvers and chefs wear.  Now ask me how I know this! 

7 minutes ago, lmagna said:

Manuals are for sissies Jack!

Until they can't figure out how to turn it on and you have to tell them "read page 26" 😎😎😎😎😎