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Everything posted by Jack12477
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Yea, Mark, the Navy version is all yellow like on the box art.. Didn't want a Canary Bird so I went with the Army version.. It is small enough to fit in palm of my hand. Sorry Carl, these went together so fast I didn't think to stop and document each step. I used PE left over from previous ships, doors and some railings, on the Fletcher. Lou, the kit comes with a paper template for the hull camo. So I photocopied it, put some Tamiya masking tape sticky side down on a piece of glass, taped the template over the Tamiya, then cut the pattern out with a scalpel, transfer the cutout to the hull. I then brush painted drawing the brush from the tape onto the hull so the painted didn't build up along the tape edge. Thanks for the compliments and Likes
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More progress on the Stearman Panel lines on wings were done using a watery black paint with a 0 brush running it down the length of the groove then before it dries wiping my thumb across the groove perpendicular to the groove - leaves the paint in the groove - slightly smudges the wing surface (weathering it a little). Did likewise with the raised surfaces
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I decided after completing the 1:350 warship models that I would venture into other categories of plastic models. After completing 2 car kits and another airplane kit, I decided on the Stearman bi-plane. I started it before I thought about documenting the build. I am painting it in the US Army blue and yellow livery. For paints I am forgoing the usual hobby paint like Vallejo and going with artist colors instead, Cerulean blue and Cadmium Yellow. Assembling the interior frame
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try Miniature flags, miniature table flags, miniature desk flags, miniature stick flags, little flags, toothpick flags, miniature world flags, miniature state flags
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Kalmbach Publishing used to publish a magazine style How To guide on building a layout using the L-girder construction technique. I've build quite a few layouts using this technique. It is very easy to build, modify, adapt, is light weight but incredibly strong. In fact I repurposed my old one to be my shipyard workbench. If Homasote is still available, use that over 1/4 inch plywood, you can "spike" the rails to it easily and it acts as a sound deadening as well.
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"RTV stands for room temperature vulcanizing. RTV silicone begins to cure immediately upon being exposed to air, as opposed to the curing agents in water-based sealants (for example, latex). ... Unlike the vulcanization of rubber, the process of forming an RTV sealant takes place at room temperature. Permatex® Clear RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant. ... Permatex® Clear RTV SiliconeAdhesive Sealant is waterproof and flexible. Temperature range -75°F to 400°F (-59°C to 204°C); resists water, weather, and vibration." Probably the same stuff you used, Mark. I used it (RTV) years ago to reinstall 100++ year old prisms in a 4th Order Fresnel Lens - prisms had come loose due to age - they used to use a red lead, white lead, linseed oil mix in the old lighthouse days.
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I thought RTV meant Room Temperature Vulcanizing [rubber]
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You are correct . Try Microscale Gloss and Microscale Flat. They work well with the Sol/Set Microscale products. Before decaling I spray the entire model with Testors Dullcote to seal the paint, then apply Microscale Gloss over the area where the decal is applied, let dry thoroughly, then apply decal.
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Steve you coud get one of these Hold and Fold tool to fold your stairs. I've used them on 1:350 PE, they work well, are easy to use and more accurate than pliers.
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