DaveRow
-
Posts
677 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by DaveRow
-
Thanks Pat, Trying my best to get the proportions right. Slowly working my way about the Masts, adding the yards etc. in hope of not having to pull something off to add something missed. Cheers -
Shipyard Update: The yard has been busy(about time I say), hoisted the Fore Top Mast Yard with Tye blocks and tackle. It's much the same as the Main in the previous post. Next step was to start the Main and Fore Top Gallant masts. Below is the Main Top Gallant mast installed. The shrouds are from 0.3mm rope with the Stay being 0.45mm The shrouds are seized where they go through the tree outer arms, long enough to reach down to the Futtock below. That final tying off yet to be done. Close up of the Shrouds and Stay about the MTG mast. The Main Top Gallant Stay runs forward through a rear block lashed to the Fore mast Top Mast head. Getting mighty crowded around the mast top. The stay runs down and is lashed to the Main Mast Stay loop about the Fore Mast. Somehow I need to get a lashing above the 2 hitches. !! Next is to attach the Fore Top Gallant - similar but with Stay going to the outer block of the Jib Boom.
-
My 2 bits worth. Nothing beats tying the knots properly. A dab of CA to stiffen the rope end or keep in place. I used to use these 2 types below - here in Aussie.. However they clogged up as the glue stays in the nozzle. The UHU (superstrong super fast ?) seemed to not dry as quick as the QuickFix did. HOWEVER Then found this Selleys QuickFIX dispenser. It controls the amount of CA glue coming out by the "black" squeeze handles on the sides. When you let go of the handles, the glue "sucks" back up the nozzle a bit. The instructions say to "tap" the bottle down on it's base to help the glue go back inside. I use the pointy end of a long pin to dab a small amount onto the spot. It works. But the best I find is to wipe the nozzle end, every time I use it. I get full use out of the bottle and nozzle this way, If too much is on the spot/rope, I wipe the excess quickly with tissue or tip of finger so I don't get a "shinny" finish. But, I agree with MTaylor, 50/50 white PVA/Water mix over the rope, soaks in to seal the lot.
-
Keep going Steve, Great additions to the gal.
-
Shipyard Update: We have moved onto the Topsail Yards Tye and Reef Tackle and Lift Blocks. I decided to do these now before I get to fit and stay the Top Gallants. Getting the Blocks ready: The Single Masthead Tye Blocks fit up in the space under the trees. Red arrows point to where the Single Tye blocks are to go. Not much space up in there. The Single Tye blocks being made. I've used 6mm singles as the 7mm (scaled size) were just little bit too thick across the cheeks to fit up in the space. Other 3 completed. Now I made these with 1 pull thread, so when in place simply pull on the 1 thread to lift up under the shrouds/trees. Single Tye Blocks in place. This is a shot at the Main, Fore similar. The Burton Pendant is very close and will have to keep an eye that it stays to the side when fitting the Tye Lifts. Next I made the Long Stropped Lift & Reef Tackle Blocks These need to be made now as the loop end of the strop pairs go under the Tye Lift. Each made the same way as in Pic above. 2 sets of each per Main & Fore completed. The Long Stropped lift blocks (Green Arrow) are looped about the mast head as are the Long Stropped Reef Tackle Blocks(Blue Arrow). The lighter color over the top being the Tye Lift. An keen eye may see that the Lift Tackle about the masthead splays outside the 2 main beams of the cross tree. I suspect it should drop more vertical behind the bottom of the TopGallant. But their is no space for this when the TopGallant is fitted. Next was to fit the Yard Tye Block Lift Tackle Trial fit of the Lift Tackle. Parrel fitted around the Mast (Red Arrow). They run up/down very well. Tye Tackle upper Double Blocks (Purple Arrow) Next will be to do the Fore Mast then run the Tye Tackle down to the eye on the channels. All above items in place. Getting close after all these Topsail Yards and Tye Blocks/Lifts to fit and shroud to Top Gallants.
-
Hi Barbara (and Dad), I am in awe that you have taken time to spend with your father to work on the "Victory" together. He has created a wonderful model, a credit to his earlier years and now to continue with your guiding assistance, and now all hands on deck.
-
Shipyard Update: The slackers in the yard have been a little busy fitting the Blocks & Ropework on the Main & Fore TopSail Yards. Getting the Blocks ready: I find it easy to make all the items of similar items at the same time, so when it comes to putting it all together, can do more than 1 and speeds things up. Plus maintain consistency. Above: Each sized block I groove the sides and ends for the rope to go around. Above: Progress with the Jeers ready to be attached, some others already on etc. Matter of progressively working Above: Little jig to hold the yard whilst setting up the Horse Stirrups. Set them with 50/50 PVA/water mix to hold in place. Below is a short set of 3 pictures showing how I make the rope loops, to attach to the yards (or other situations) Above: I use a peg of similar size to the spar, loop the rope about and hold with enough space to seize with twine. Above: I have a number of hooks and clips to hold the main rope, also to hold the seize twine. See if I can describe the process. I start with the twine held by the blue clamp on the right. The twine passes to the left through the left hook (blue arrow) and back to the right. (the twine loop through the hook is used later to pull the final wrap into the seized section) Just before the red clamp I start wrapping the twine around the 2 lines back towards the "peg", wrapping/seizing the required number (3 or 4). This can be hard at first, but with pointy nose tweezers you can hold the twine in place and start the wrapping. The wraps might not go all the way to the peg. That can be fixed later. You hold the the final wrap/seize (I put pressure with a finger), loosen and unhook the hook from the loop. Then thread the twine through the "hook loop". Whilst holding the twine end (yellow arrow), pull the right side/end of the twine, in direction of the "red arrow". This pulls the loop towards the seized section, and pull the twine on the right side till the loop is gone, and the left twine end goes under the seized section a bit. Above: Hopefully you end up with something like this. I usually can slide the seized section alone the main ropes when attaching to the yard or other item. Glue in place and trim the unwanted ends. Above: Here is a Horse loop in place on the yard. Above: The 2 Top Sail Yards completed.
-
HMCSS Victoria 1855 by BANYAN - 1:72
DaveRow replied to BANYAN's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
I'm back in Model Mode. Those added details look really good Pat. The funnel come up great. Hardly tell how it was made.- 993 replies
-
- 4
-
-
- gun dispatch vessel
- victoria
- (and 2 more)
-
Great progress there Rod. The Australian Replica of the Endeavour has had some modern "Safety" features/adjustments incorporated. Their are "vents" on the deck where pumps were fitted. A Diesel Engine was installed. The Binnacles to either side of the steering wheel, appear to house the diesel motor instrumentation, the compass etc. I as you have found out, very tight "fit" for all the items between the Main and Mizzen Masts. This picture shows a "on shore" binnacle for visitors to to imagine what may of really been on deck. Pic compliments Greg Shard, Endeavour at Darlington Harbour, Sydney at the Maritime Museum.
- 108 replies
-
- 3
-
-
- endeavour
- caldercraft
- (and 1 more)
-
Shipyard Update: You may say "I'm Back" Well it looks like a full month my shipyard has been on an extended break. With the Commonweath Games, then catching up with some paid work, time got away. Mizzen Crossjack: I just had to add something to the model. I had made the 2 Main & Fore Lower Yards and the Mizzen Crossjack a month ago. Time to get things onto the model and finish her off. Above: Mizzen Crossjack in place, the Sling for the Yard Sling Block highlighted. Tying knots in-situ, is a challenge in itself. Many more to come is the reality. Above: Crossjack, other (Port) side. Above: Crossjack stern view, Parrel Sling for the Crossjack. Sling and block details >> page 105 of the AoTS.
-
Wow that is some lift of the hull. Thanks for letting us know the source of the Build. I don't mind the pictures staying. All adds to the Endeavour 's ongoing History.
-
Hi Rod, Welcome, as others have said to the Endeavour Club. Doing a great job on the hull. Will follow with interest.
- 108 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- endeavour
- caldercraft
- (and 1 more)
-
Hi David, Happy to leave here in my log. Do you know which organisation built this hull ?
-
Hi Pat, Yes I bet the rope and block work is a memorable experience. I need to get back into it, keep the momentum up, as weeks will drag into months. Want to get this baby completed.
-
Hi their Greg, Actually the traffic I have experienced is pretty dam good. I am a TX driver, meaning driving Games Family Members(visiting nation dignitaries, managers), Comm Games officials about. A loot of work went into Games Lanes on a designated road network which I get to drive on. We have Comm Games vehicles to drive all shift. Done 7 shifts with 4 to go. Bit tiring, but meeting interesting people from other countries.
-
Shipyard Update: Fore Yard: Completed the Fore Yard a while ago. A few pictures of the final below. Well underway with a brass rod to set the length of the horse stirrups. Working at the Commonwealth Games at Gold Coast, so not much happening in the Boat Yard.
-
HMCSS Victoria 1855 by BANYAN - 1:72
DaveRow replied to BANYAN's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Hi Pat, The Funnel came out very well for 3D printing. Impressed I am. The printed surface, as you have found looks smooth, but rippled with the layering of the filament. I've bought small diameter nozzles to install on my 3DP, aim is for thinner layers > smoother finishes. All learning on this method. Cheers- 993 replies
-
- 4
-
-
- gun dispatch vessel
- victoria
- (and 2 more)
-
Shipyard Update: Main Yard Blocks: The shipyard has been working on the Main Yard, busy selecting the blocks, adding the rope work to each, then secure to the yard. Picture below of the Yard to date. Nearly ready to add to the Main Mast jeers and hoist away. Parrel and running ropes to add. Above: Main Yard; 12 single blocks, 2 double Jeers, 4 twin(2 blocks each) and 2 Pendant/thimbles. I actually have made all these blocks at the same time for the Fore Yard. Each loop tightened once in position on the yard. Yard Starboard end: Lift Block (4mm) & topsail sheet block (5mm) stropped together on top. Yardarm tackle pendant hanging from the end. Brace Pendant Block (5mm) on the far side. 1/3 length of the yard. Start of the Horse with stirrups wrapped 3 times around the diam. Outer tricing block (3mm) Leech/Buntline blocks (4mm) 1/4 way/point on the yard Yard Middle: Pair of Double Jeers(7mm) on top. Yard Block (4mm). Topsail sheet block (5mm) with Quarter block(3mm) stropped below the Jeers. Yard Port end; same as Stb. end And some detail shots of the blocks being made: Lift Block & topsail sheet block stropped together. 2 each for Main & Fore. Yardarm tackle pendant, 1/4 length of the yard. Quarter block with topsail sheet block stropped under. Onto the Fore Yard next.
-
HMCSS Victoria 1855 by BANYAN - 1:72
DaveRow replied to BANYAN's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Lucky you. I've cracked the G Code, read up on how it works and adjusted it for my printer startup. I use "Simplify3D" to send the commands to the 3D Printer. So many settings in the program to fine tune the output, one can spend hours testing. Hope the Capstan turns out well.- 993 replies
-
- 3
-
-
- gun dispatch vessel
- victoria
- (and 2 more)
-
HMCSS Victoria 1855 by BANYAN - 1:72
DaveRow replied to BANYAN's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
I will be waiting to see how it turns out from the 3D printer Pat. Did you buy a printer or you using a service ?- 993 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- gun dispatch vessel
- victoria
- (and 2 more)
-
What fantastic workmanship Johann. Total admiration for your jigs and patience, the way you create all those metal parts is a credit.
-
Hi Techo, This stuff is very cool. I know the bridge, been over it quiet a few times in the travels from Queensland to NSW. So many techniques and putting it all together in this working model. Love your skill.
-
Poor Man's Lathe disasters
DaveRow replied to stevenmh's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Hi Steve, To add my experience of lathe work, esp. with small diameters. The dowel in the picture you originally posted(above), exhibits a twist in the longitudinal direction. This in MHO is caused by too much torque, either at startup or even when the motor is suddenly powered down at end. Meaning their is not enough dowel diameter to resist the rotational(torque) pressure on the dowel. A variable speed motor I have read should be used at startup to slowly rotate the work piece up to speed, then slowly reduce at end. I had several disasters after shaving down to a couple of mm. But my Lathe does not have a variable speed motor.
Our Emblem ®
