foxy
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Well its a busy time and found some brass/stainless rings for hanging the anchors. With black rope raped around ring and later will add cotton thread for seizing, also plastic strips that come with Dafis resin anchors glued around wood plinths. Next it was the crest to finish, not to happy with this as the lions are not very good,(old Mold I expect). Made up the ships bell with Dafis etch and extra brass rod to allow the bell to swing later. I assume that the handle on the top has a pull rope attached, anyone Know if this is correct???. Last pictures are the catheads added crown to front that comes with the kit. More later Frank -
A little more progress this time on Dafi's resin Anchors and Knights head. First the Anchors, there are three types(sizes),not much trouble here assembling, some sanding and filing. Later when all ok, will spray black and make brass rings fettered, plus 1mm plastic strip for binding. Next it was the Knights head, this is the basic shape after sanding and making sure it fitted the bowsprit. A clearer picture of the additions of Dafi's brass etchings and some brass rod. Just some brass rod supports for fixing and to spray black. Again a very good fit and will be better than the bits from Heller. Frank
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Thank you very much Daniel, that's the best compliment coming from you sir. As I have said many times, with out your etch work this ship would never have got off the ramp, so its thanks to the effort you have put into the extra detailing this ship deserves. Started on the lettering around the crest, one side done, but its slow work, only lost one letter I so far, good job there's extra's. Will show pictures soon. Frank
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Hi AvesP. On your question of rigging ropes. I intend using Chucks very fine ropes for this build. from Syrens smallest .20mm and some very old cotton thread which still has made in England on it. This I am using for the rap around blocks and tackle for the guns on top and quarter decks, plus Syrens for the working blocks. As for the shrouds, I am not sure yet on the colour or size, there being black or hemp colour used, the black colour I assume is tarred hemp. For the ratlines I will be using the smallest thread/rope. Still working on the hull at the mo, so any help in 1/100 for the size of shroud ropes would be most helpful. Frank
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Cheers Lory mate. Others know better than me on this kit, I assume the chainplate is attached to only one deadeye, and this is secured beneath the channels to the hull. In larger ships there are as in Danny's picture more than one chain plate holding down the deadeye.. Not having built any Billings boats, only plastic sailing ships, having two wood one's in the stash of other manufacturers, its a learning curve for me too. Thanks Danny for the info on shrouds tensions, I thought a little slack was ok. 'I stand corrected' . Cheers Frank
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Great work Paul. Just run through your build. Its good to change jobs on a build now and again, keeps the grey cells ticking over. Frank
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Excuse my Ignorance but what scale is this and what type of ship are we looking at, be it a schooner. Nice work so far and good luck with your build. On the tension of shrouds, they do not have to be to tight. Frank
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Cheers Keith mate, A happy New year to you and your family. Still on the crest and crown for this ship. Using Daniels etched parts for the crown and wording. First filled in the Heller Plastic part of the crown using Plastic putty, great stuff this and lasts and lasts. Used round head pliers for the crown top. Once crown fixed to crest started painting. Still to finish lions on the crest, plus the lettering. More soon. Frank
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A couple more pictures. One of the heart blocks on the bowsprit. Next a start on the crown that goes a top the crest on the bow. Using the plastic base from the kit, filled in the corners and next will add the PE parts. Note the lettering that will adorn the crest once this is painted. More soon. Foxy
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Having just arrived on this Great build, be it wood construction in 1/100. Just love the rigging work you have done. Looking forward to more Frank
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Well its on again with the fiddle blocks now strung and ready for use. Then found a use of the Scale Warship resin heart blocks. These are ideal once strung and painted for the bow sprit. Once fixed and a paint these are ready for the next stage. Just right for 1/100 scale. On the subject of Heart blocks, made a big boob with Syren closed heart blocks, so have ordered some more , get it right next time around(tells one's self to read the instructions) Frank
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Happy New year Tom and sort the problem out soon, which I am sure you will on the bowsprit . Happens to all of us. Frank
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Fine work shipmate. Admirals, 'Don't you love them' . Frank
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'Wow'. this is some lovely work. Read through near all your posts, its a very nice learning curve for me on wooden ships. Will be following this just for the entertainment. Frank
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Well after the festive season its back to work on the Victory. Made up the closed Heart blocks from Syren models. Then started on the fiddle blocks, for those that have not used these, they come out quite well in the end, with care. I start by gluing with pva white glue, leave for 24 Hrs under pressure. Next remove and shape them with sanding sticks. Last I drill out for ropes later. Once done they are very robust and work too. More soon shipmates. Plus Happy New year to you all. Frank
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Miniture machine screw sizes
foxy replied to grsjax's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Brass screws of 0.5mm are used in Model railroads, so it should be no problem to procure them. Used to use them me self when I built 00 working railroad engines. Thanks to this site it has made me rethink on the use of such small screws for ship modelling. Frank -
Yep me to Daniel. If I know you, you will have a very good time. Merry Christmas to you my friend Frank
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Miniture machine screw sizes
foxy replied to grsjax's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Some screws are larger, take this computer buff. How screwie" is that. Frank -
The blocks take up some time to make as most here know. I do them some at a time, so as not to get bored and lose interest. So its maybe seven or eight at a time.. This is how I do it, was wondering how others did this type of work. Frank
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Well been busy on the mizzen mast with Dafi's etch parts. Used his etch parts for the boom rest, but used the Heller part for the belaying pins, but there is an etch for this also. Will add a blob of PVA on the belaying pins. Next it was the ropes that are added before the shrouds are placed. Used Syren products for this. An overall picture of the mast so far. Then it was the turn of the Channels. Added Dafi's eyelets to this, plus extras. In the foreground are the mizzen channels. Also added extra plastic to the width, this being 1mm and the lugs to connect. Frank
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Like your idea Rich. Seems to look the part from your pictures. Keep going shipmate Frank
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Lots of little items on the go. One picture of a few of the blocks with loops attached. More soon me thinks. Frank
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Hi Henry. Just read through your build so far. Having my hands full at the moment with another and another, but on the same lines as you(1/100), I was told there were numerous problems with this ship. I to have one in the stash and your build is most inspiring to say the least. So this will help me if ever I start this ship in the future. Your painting is fantastic, even with what you think is a problem on the lack of shine, does not deteriorate from the work. Frank
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Thanks Daniel, David and Keith shipmates. No not watch's David, but had good eyesight, now have to wear glasses,(not to strong mind you). I do sometimes use an optivizor . Not bad for 70 plus. Frank
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Great pictures Daniel. Love the work in wood, 'even going to try my hand at wood', sometime!!!!!.(note the sometime) But love those tables, 'what next', chairs. Frank.
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