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Louie da fly

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Everything posted by Louie da fly

  1. That's all very well for you 18th century guys. What about us mediaevalists (puts on jerkin, hose and hood with liripipe) . . .)
  2. The answer to carving is persistence. The first attempt is almost always a disaster, but with practice you'll develop your skills. Keep at it. For shield patterns, have a look at the bottom of the page at http://members.ozemail.com.au/~chrisandpeter/shield/shield.html - spiral arms seem to have been very popular, but by no means the only decoration on Viking shields. Unfortunately many so-called "Viking shield patterns" on-line are just made up. It's unfortunate that the shields supplied with the kit are so thick. Real ones were less than 1/2 inch. Still, making a huge number of shields of the correct thickness would be an enormous task (don't ask me how I know!), so you're probably best going with the ones supplied. Only you and I know the difference anyway Steven
  3. I'm looking forward to seeing your progress on this, Dick. I love your speculative reconstructions of historical ships about which little is known. I've said it before, half the fun is in the detective work before the build even starts, plus the discovery of "OH! THAT'S why they did it that way!" I'm sure you're already aware of the strange paddled galleys in the frescoes at Thera, so I won't burden you with them. Fascinating subject. I'm pulling up a seat. Steven
  4. Agreed. I wasn't able to do this on my dromon as the scale was too small (1:50), but I would have loved to. Kudos for taking it to this level to get the proportions and angles correct. Steven
  5. It's not a ship model if you haven't bled on it. Welcome to the fraternity . . . Steven
  6. Though this report is over a year old, I only just came across it - fascinating. I'd like to find out if there's been any result of the survey. https://maryrose.org/news/search-for-sunken-galley?fbclid=IwAR2FZCfW-YD5_LbjfhRGCIloHYMZT4Cs2UGXMsALYaN2WZgP9qrLnoPBKro Steven
  7. Welcome to MSW, Mark. That longboat in particular is supposed to be a good one to start wooden modelling with. The techniques are quite different from plastic modelling, and it's good to start simple to build up your skills before you move onto more complex builds. Make sure to start a build log - it's the best way to get help and advice, and the rest of us get to see a beautiful model taking shape! Steven
  8. Struth! That's a long time without building a ship. I'm not sure I'd be able to cope being unable to model for so long! So where are you in SA? From your description of what you're doing, it sounds rural. Do you have any idea which model you're going to work on first? Steven PS: Welcome back.
  9. Nice work, mate. The railing pieces are really starting to come together. I'm not terribly surprised by the guy's area of study - in the Texas A&M University master and doctorate papers regarding maritime discoveries all come from the Department of Anthropology. Steven
  10. Yes, I believe you're right in doing that. Having all the planks exactly the same width was (from what I've seen) a relatively late idea. Even ships as late as the Mary Rose turn out to have higgledy-piggledy planking. Beautiful work on those curved thwarts, by the way. Steven
  11. I had the same problem/realization when I first started working in 3D modelling after many years of AutoCad. The whole mindset is different. As Dr PR put it, you are creating a 3D object in cyberspace. I have to say I far prefer this approach, a any changes you make to the 3d "model" are immediately available in all the orthographic views. Compare this to 2D, where you have to laboriously redraw or at least amend every view - plan, 4 elevations, cross-sections, details etc - to incorporate the changes - so easy to miss one (I worked with house design). After coming across 3D modelling I became very frustrated with the wasted effort and opportunity for error involved in 2D drawing - but the people I worked for weren't prepared to outlay the necessary money to change over to 3D (mind you, one of the principals of one place I worked for, an architect, couldn't even use AutoCad!) Steven
  12. Hi Scratchie and welcome. I'd second Allan's recommendation about The Rigging of Ships in the Days of the Spritsail Topmast. Looking at AL's model, it seems to be based on the type of galleon in use in the second half of the 16th century (for example, it has a stern gallery - fairly rare before the end of the century, though I know of a couple of examples from 1555 - but no spritsail topmast). The book starts somewhat later (1620) but it's often possible to extrapolate backwards on the basis that rigging didn't change all that fast. I'm working on a ship from 1545 and this is still the best book I've been able to find, despite it being even further away from my time period than from yours. Another thing you might find helpful is a collection I made of contemporary pictures of galleons on Pinterest - https://www.pinterest.com.au/lowe1847/galleons/ . And you should also check out some of the galleon build logs, particularly Backer's Pelican/Golden Hind - he put a lot of work and research into getting all the details as right as he possibly could (and the model's amazing). Make sure you start a build log - it's the best way to get help and advice, and we get to see a beautiful model taking shape. And have fun with it!
  13. That's a very beautiful model you're making. I don't know the answer to your question, but the definitive work on rigging for this period is "The Rigging of Ships in the Days of the Spritsail Topmast" by R. C. Anderson, an amazing and deeply researched resource. If that doesn't answer your question, nothing will. I have the book myself, but I can't access it at the moment, otherwise I'd tell you straight away. Best wishes, Steven
  14. I agree about the position of the fashion piece affecting the action of the rudder - I had to drastically re-jig the stern of my Great Harry model to take that into account. Steven
  15. Just don't carve all your oarsmen out of wood (don't ask me how I know) - Steven
  16. Welcome to MSW. I do envy you living in Bodrum, with easy access to the underwater archaeology museum, with the Serçe Limanı "glass wreck". Steven PS: You make very nice models.
  17. Probably the best way to answer that question is to refer you to the planking articles at https://modelshipworld.com/forum/98-planking-downloads-and-tutorials-and-videos/ Steven
  18. Beautiful, crisp work, Jason. It's rather nice to see the woodchips in the hull from forming the mast step, even though I'm sure they'll be gone soon. Somehow makes it more real that you've been working on it. Steven
  19. Nice clean, crisp work, mate. She's looking good. Just a point for future reference, it's better to plank both sides at once, evenly on both sides, rather than plank one side then the other. The forces involved can warp the hull to one side if applied unevenly (don't ask me how I know!). I'm hoping this won't happen to your model. It looks excellent so far. Steven
  20. On the contrary, yours was in very good condition for its age. I don't think anybody realised you were asking for help restoring it, as you mentioned planning to get it done professionally. I'll put a reply up on your post - but apart from the loose lanyards for the shrouds, it does look pretty good already. Steven
  21. Hi and welcome, Phil. If you're doing the model from the movie, I'd suggest you do a google image search for the Black Pearl - that should answer your questions, not only the sails but also the shape and details of the hull. I'd suggest also that you begin a build log for the model you're making - it's a great way to get help and guidance from the members here. Instructions are at Best wishes, Steven
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