Louie da fly

I had the same problem/realization when I first started working in 3D modelling after many years of AutoCad. The whole mindset is different. As Dr PR put it, you are creating a 3D object in cyberspace. I have to say I far prefer this approach, a any changes you make to the 3d "model" are immediately available in all the orthographic views. Compare this to 2D, where you have to laboriously redraw or at least amend every view - plan, 4 elevations, cross-sections, details etc - to incorporate the changes - so easy to miss one (I worked with house design). After coming across 3D modelling I became very frustrated with the wasted effort and opportunity for error involved in 2D drawing - but the people I worked for weren't prepared to outlay the necessary money to change over to 3D (mind you, one of the principals of one place I worked for, an architect, couldn't even use AutoCad!) Steven

Hi Scratchie and welcome. I'd second Allan's recommendation about The Rigging of Ships in the Days of the Spritsail Topmast. Looking at AL's model, it seems to be based on the type of galleon in use in the second half of the 16th century (for example, it has a stern gallery - fairly rare before the end of the century, though I know of a couple of examples from 1555 - but no spritsail topmast). The book starts somewhat later (1620) but it's often possible to extrapolate backwards on the basis that rigging didn't change all that fast. I'm working on a ship from 1545 and this is still the best book I've been able to find, despite it being even further away from my time period than from yours. Another thing you might find helpful is a collection I made of contemporary pictures of galleons on Pinterest - https://www.pinterest.com.au/lowe1847/galleons/ . And you should also check out some of the galleon build logs, particularly Backer's Pelican/Golden Hind - he put a lot of work and research into getting all the details as right as he possibly could (and the model's amazing). Make sure you start a build log - it's the best way to get help and advice, and we get to see a beautiful model taking shape. And have fun with it!

That's a very beautiful model you're making. I don't know the answer to your question, but the definitive work on rigging for this period is "The Rigging of Ships in the Days of the Spritsail Topmast" by R. C. Anderson, an amazing and deeply researched resource. If that doesn't answer your question, nothing will. I have the book myself, but I can't access it at the moment, otherwise I'd tell you straight away. Best wishes, Steven

I agree about the position of the fashion piece affecting the action of the rudder - I had to drastically re-jig the stern of my Great Harry model to take that into account. Steven

Just don't carve all your oarsmen out of wood (don't ask me how I know) - Steven

Welcome to MSW. I do envy you living in Bodrum, with easy access to the underwater archaeology museum, with the Serçe Limanı "glass wreck". Steven PS: You make very nice models.

Nice. Steven

Probably the best way to answer that question is to refer you to the planking articles at https://modelshipworld.com/forum/98-planking-downloads-and-tutorials-and-videos/ Steven

Beautiful, crisp work, Jason. It's rather nice to see the woodchips in the hull from forming the mast step, even though I'm sure they'll be gone soon. Somehow makes it more real that you've been working on it. Steven

Good save, mate! (We've all been there one time or another). Steven

Nice clean, crisp work, mate. She's looking good. Just a point for future reference, it's better to plank both sides at once, evenly on both sides, rather than plank one side then the other. The forces involved can warp the hull to one side if applied unevenly (don't ask me how I know!). I'm hoping this won't happen to your model. It looks excellent so far. Steven

Very nice work, mate. She's really coming together well. Steven

On the contrary, yours was in very good condition for its age. I don't think anybody realised you were asking for help restoring it, as you mentioned planning to get it done professionally. I'll put a reply up on your post - but apart from the loose lanyards for the shrouds, it does look pretty good already. Steven

Hi and welcome, Phil. If you're doing the model from the movie, I'd suggest you do a google image search for the Black Pearl - that should answer your questions, not only the sails but also the shape and details of the hull. I'd suggest also that you begin a build log for the model you're making - it's a great way to get help and guidance from the members here. Instructions are at Best wishes, Steven

Though it is from a different nation, and built in 1629 not 1637, the stern of the Batavia may be informative - see https://www.donsmaps.com/batavia.html - here's a couple of photos from that site - Steven

Waldemar, my understanding is that this technique was not purely Mediterranean - have you seen Brad Loewen's work on Hauling Down the Futtock vs Espalhamento - https://journals.lib.unb.ca/index.php/MCR/article/view/17791/22170 ? Steven

I agree with Jaager - the value to me is in restoring a model of this type to its original glory, rather than to try to make it "more authentic". I had a similar problem with my Great Harry restoration - I built it back in about 1967 when I knew a lot less, and my restoration is mainly bringing it back to the way it was when I built it, rather than to "correct" things I didn't understand at the time (I have to say I haven't been totally consistent with it, but generally I've tried to keep it to that.) However, as this is Santa Rogge's thread I feel that if we want to continue talking about Keith's build it should go onto his build log from now on. Steven

I'd vote for sails, despite the problems of having to make new ones and their hiding stuff. That's the way the ship was originally presented, and to be true to her you should probably go that way, though "weathering" the sails to duplicate the patina of the rest of the ship would probably be best. Regarding the rigging, again it would probably be best to duplicate as far as possible the way it was first done. My opinion only, however. Steven

Keith, did you ever finish restoring the Amelia? I was following with great interest. Steven

Here's the history of the roundel change due to friendly fire: https://forum.warthunder.com/index.php?/topic/490321-272020-raafcommonwealth-roundel-on-us-aircraft/

Hello and welcome. I fully agree with Bob Cleek's analysis. It's not a duplicate of a real ship, but it has racked up almost 100 years and should be appreciated if only for that. There have been a reasonable number of these "decorator" models restored by MSW members - for example and and Your restoration is nowhere near as complex and difficult as the projects above. Your model is in remarkably good condition considering its age - the masts, ropes and sails are all amazingly intact - and in my opinion all you really need to do is dust and clean it. I've had great success with the saliva method on a restoration of my own - the only advice I'd give is spit into a small bowl or something similar to use as a reservoir - DON'T put the q-tip back in your mouth after cleaning the dirt off the ship . . . (yuk!) By the way, the name-plate on the stand is in a difficult script - it actually says "Hansa Kogge" (the Hansa ports on the German coast were a major trading consortium in the Middle Ages - their name got incorporated in the name of the airline Lufthansa). Problem is, it's not anything like a Kogge (or cog) - they looked like this: Your model looks like it's (very loosely) based on a galleon from the late 1500's. But have fun with it. I think it's a very worthwhile project and familiarity with this model will give you a bit of a basis for understanding the way a ship like this works, when you come to build your own. Best wishes with it, Steven

You're doing a very nice job of this. Caravels are such beautiful vessels. Steven

Welcome to MSW, from sunny Ballarat! Where in Sydney do you live? I was there for some years in the 70's and 80's. Great photo. HMAS Australia II had a very honorable career, and it's nice to see a member of the crew working on a model of her. Have you decided what kind of ship you want to build? Steven

Wish I'd thought of that . . .

Thanks for all the likes and encouragement. I was never going to give up on this - I'd put too much into it. But I'm glad I took a break - it had stopped being fun and had become a chore. So, here's the progress in getting back to where I was before the topgallant yard broke: First I had to replace the parrel truck - I'd had to destroy it to get the yard off. As I hadn't even understood what parrel trucks were when I first built the model, or how they worked, I just made what they looked like to me from pictures. When replacing this one I basically made it the way it had first been made, by wrapping a thread around the ropes that were to hold it to the mast Sail being attached A loop around the mast to locate the yard and then roll the "parrel truck" around the mast and fix in place with CA. Replacing the controlling ropes - sheets, clewlines, lifts (I had to unglue the bottom of the shrouds for access to the upper top). Tiny pegs used as weights, to tension the ropes. Adding the lifts And braces And finished, ready to move forward again. Steven