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Louie da fly

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  1. I suddenly realised the planks at the bow didn't line up properly from port to starboard. The planks for the stern were ok (apart from a bit of a problem with them merging with the sternpost - which I'll get to later). It's the stempost (i.e. at the bow) where the planks were wrongly placed - the starboard and port planks didn't line up with each other (my bad - I should have checked before I got to gluing): This what the planks at the bow look like: And here is the planking at the stern - you can see the difference. I took the outer two planks off and glued the first one back in a better place. But this brought up another problem - never having done clinker planking before, I had considerable difficulty getting the ends of the planks to sit properly at the stem and sternpost. In fact with these planks I was removing I'd ended up bodging the ends - to the degree that I decided - "They're already stuffed - I might as well just make new ones". So I did. All three. I'm getting better at doing the plank ends - the last couple look ok - but you can see the difficulty with the earlier ones. I'll have to go back to them and fix them later - perhaps by gluing slivers of wood in the gaps and trimming them down to shape. And here are the bow planks lined up properly. Having sorted out this hiccup I've done some more planking, but I haven't taken any photos yet. So you'll just have to wait. Steven
  2. I agree - it does look like it needs something to make it stand out. I think this vessel dates from before they had cast-bronze rams, but maybe a different colour or something would make the ram stand out more? Good idea - if you do a google image search for Ancient Greek shields you'll be able to find a lot of examples. Not sure how reliable they are, but steer away from the Greek Letter "Lambda" - that was specific to Sparta only. As far as spears go, the pic below should give some idea of dimensions and length. This ship is from considerably before the enormous 4.0 to 6.5 metre Macedonian sarissas. Steven
  3. Welcome to MSW, Mart. Make sure you start a build log. Good to have you aboard. Steven
  4. Oh, I quite agree. In fact a lack of caulking would make a pitch coating much more necessary. The representations of ancient Greek vessels are usually on red/black pottery, so colours are probably not reliable, but Byzantine ships (which are much more up my alley) are almost always shown black, as are many Western European mediaeval ships. Steven
  5. Hi Chuck and welcome to MSW! Do you have a ship in mind yet? Steven
  6. If you google "glass spider" you get pictures of David Bowie. From Wikipedia - "The Glass Spider Tour was a 1987 worldwide concert tour by English musician David Bowie, launched in support of his album Never Let Me Down. " Steven
  7. The ancient Greek method of construction used a large number of tenons set into mortices in the edges of the planks to join them together (from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phoenician_joints ) I doubt that that would have left enough room for caulking. The Byzantines certainly caulked their ships - there are several references to it in contemporary records (there was even an Emperor named Michael the Caulker, because that's what he'd been before the Empress adopted him) but that was many centuries later and ship construction techniques had changed enormously. Steven
  8. Looks amazing as usual, Pat. I can't see the error, but then I don't know what a spider band is. Is it like a glass spider? Sorry, being silly . . . Steven
  9. Honestly, I don't think this would be necessary. Though we have to make allowances for artistic licence, contemporary illustrations do seem to show the planking rising at the bow. The reconstruction drawing of the Mary Rose shows a less extreme rise, but it has to be kept in mind that this part of the hull was never recovered, so the reconstruction may be based on later practice. And of course this also applies to the RMG model. Steven
  10. Just spare a thought for people building triremes - 150 oars! Steven
  11. You're making good progress on this. It's looking great. Steven
  12. Planking in progress. Note the rubber spaces as recommended by Liteflite (though sometimes I use wooden spacers when stiffness is needed). And a sliver to close up a gap. And trimmed off. More planking: I've been thinking about Druxey's question regarding the layout of the planking butts - it makes sense that the further they are apart the stronger the structure. But only one of my books (Mondfeld) has a diagram showing how they are supposed to be done. And even then I misinterpreted the layout. So now that I've got this far, I've decided to change the layout in future strakes so the spacing is more equal (see the black marks) More to come. Steven
  13. Which one is which🤣 Hard to tell, sometimes . . . Oh, wait! Simple, the sharp end is the bow and the blunt end is the stern . . . Sorry Razorbill. I'll get back in my box now. Steven
  14. Not that I know of. Contemporary representations just show a 2-shift, with the butts of one strake central to the length of the next, but I think that's likely to be artistic licence and that in the real world there would have been at least a 3-shift. I was trying to get a layout that allowed for the planks to be as near as possible to 20-24 feet, which Mondfeld recommends, while avoiding having the end planks too short, as they seemed to be with any other layout. BTW, to my shame, I got one of the plank shifts wrong, so the two sides other aren't mirror images of each other at one point. But I'm committed now, (planks are already glued in place) so I'll just have to put it down to experience. Steven
  15. Is this your first model? The way you introduced the thread makes it sound like it is. In which case I'm even more impressed - that's some pretty nice planking there. By the way, would you be a Kinks fan by any chance? Steven
  16. Yep. If your software enables you to draw the planes (and merge them into the main drawing), it should be possible to do your projection lines perpendicular to each plane individually, and so get what when I was learning drafting was called the "true shape" of each frame. Steven
  17. You've made a very good start on this, mate. Looking good.
  18. Kris, I would treat the plane that each half-frame "sits on" in its own right, as 30 separate entities (i.e 2 for each frame marked in red on the diagram). Then project from the front elevation of each frame, one by one onto the appropriate plane, at right angles to the plane itself. Does that make sense? Steven
  19. Does that mean the frames are angled from the vertical? Like a raked mast? If so, there is a way to do it by "projecting" lines on the paper at right angles to the frame itself. I hope this isn't too confusing. It's a bit hard to explain clearly. Maybe a diagram will help: But if the angling doesn't change frame width, all you really need to do is proportionally adjust the frame heights (for example, if the angled frame needs to be 10% higher than it appears to be from directly front-on (i.e. at right-angles), increase the height of each point of the frame by 10%.) Perhaps you can "stretch" your drawing in some program like "paint" or photoshop. I hope this helps. Steven
  20. Good work on the oars, mate. I know how trying/boring it can be, but they look good. Any chance of some photos of the hull? Steven
  21. Welcome to MSW, mate, from sunny Ballarat. Hope you're safe up there. Steven
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