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About CGN39BCO

  • Birthday 09/22/1951

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    Lake Tapps, WA

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  1. The pages, which are htm files, do read fine. I think you’ll find that the search tool doesn’t work, as I did on my Windows 7 laptop. The search tool and index are in an older version of JavaScript which doesn’t seem to be readable by many current browsers. That’s the problem Paul’s addressing. Bill
  2. Bill - The series of articles you remember were part of John Fryant's "On the Water" column. Jan/Feb 2012 - Introduction/Hull/Propulsion Mar/Apr 2012 - Superstructure May/Jun 2012 - Superstructure July/Aug 2012 - Superstructure Sept/Oct 2012 - "No progress" Nov/Dec 2012 - Propulsion Jan/Feb 2014 - First Voyage Bill
  3. I'm currently working a topsail schooner in 1/96 (many fewer sails) and have found including the (unfurled) sails adds significantly to the modeling time (reef points make ratlines look REALLY INTERESTING by comparison). Using furled sails would allow omission of some the sail detail buried in the furl and save some of that time if you've got both Cutty Sark and Victory in the queue. I've used both cloth (men's handkerchiefs) and Silkspan Lite in 1/96 and have gotten better results from Silkspan Lite - the thickness is much closer to scale. Tom Lauria has a helpful video on YouTube for modeling sails with Silkspan, and David Antscherl describes his method in "The Fully Framed Model, Rigging a Sixth Rate Sloop of 1767-1780, Volume 4. If you want to use cloth and are going to furl, I do recommend cutting the height of the sails down by at least 1/3 to avoid excessive bulk on the yards, which advice goes back at least as far as Harold Underhill. All that said, eight of my 11 sailing ship models have included sails, so apparently I'm in favor. Bill
  4. If you're doing the outer planking and want to follow the prototype, you might want to get a copy of "Pride of Baltimore" by Thomas Gillmer, the naval architect who designed both Pride of Baltimore I and Pride of Baltimore II (~$10). It includes a few photographs of POB II under construction. The scantling plan for POB II on p. 165 states the frames were sided at 9". That information and the photographs on pages 178, 184 and 176 suggest that planking amidships was ~9" wide (slightly under 1/8" in 5/32" scale) and tapered down to about 6" (5/64") at the bow and stern. Gillmer co-authored a second book "Sailing with Pride" in 1990 (~$5), which appears to have a number of photographs of POB II underway and might be useful when working deck fittings. Bill
  5. Welcome to Model Ship World. As you no doubt knew before coming on to the site, getting hold of the Leavitt plans for the Lexington isn't easy, but there are a couple more paths to try before falling back on alternative projects. In one of your posts you mention that the plans were published in Popular Mechanics. Actually, it was Mechanix Illustrated. The index for the NRG Journal (available on MSW's sister site) has a citation for Clyde Leavitt and the his plans for the Lexington: Leavitt, Clyde M., author, model builder: model: LEXINGTON plans for LEXINGTON in Mechanix Illustrated, 5:158 If my math is right, Volume 5 of the NRG Journal is from 1960. I don't have the NRG CD's of Volumes 1-40 of the Journal, but perhaps someone here on the forum will look up Volume 5 page 158. If the item gives the issue(s) of Mechanix Illustrated that include the plans AND they're also from 1960, you should be in good shape. www.backissues.com has all the Mechanix Illustrated for 1960 available for about $16 each. 1959 and earlier gets spotty. The Austin Public Library also has Mechanix Illustrated 1960-84 available on microfilm and you may be able to access it from the Seattle area via the inter-library loan system. The plans in the magazine will be reduced to fit their 7 1/2' x 10 1/2" format, but could be enlarged back to the scale you desire to work. I see you've also been inquiring on the ModelShipBuilder site. Back in November 2012, their member jml, John, stated that he had the plans available, but wasn't comfortable providing copies, being uncertain if they were now in the public domain. So you may hear from him if he's still active over there. I'm also here in the Seattle area (Lake Tapps). If some of the alternatives suggested have caught your interest, I have copies of the Parker book and his plans for the Lexington (he developed his own plans, and comments on Davis'), Petraeus' book Modeling the "Irene", and Chapelle's plans for the Lynx. I'd be happy to share any of them with you. If you care to visit, send me a private message and we'll make arrangements. Bill
  6. Very nice work. White lettering is always a problem, speaking as a (mostly) reformed model railroader. From the launch photo at the top of your build log, the depth markings are about 12" high and the name lettering about twice that, or about 1/8" and 1/4" characters on the model. In my experience the alternatives are dry transfers and waterslide decals. "Woodland Scenics Dry Transfer Decals Gothic Numbers White" and "Woodland Scenics Dry Transfer Decals Gothic Letters White" include the characters you need, although you may find the weight of the lines, particularly in the letters, a little heavy compared to the photograph. The problem with dry transfers is alignment when applying them, as they have to be burnished on one by one. But it can be done, sometimes with some scraping off of what was just put on. Dry transfers are available from Amazon, other on line sources and local hobby shops (if you have one). If you haven't used dry transfers before, you'll also need a burnisher. Microscale is the largest manufacturer of waterslide decals for model railroading and puts out a sheet of white Gothic letters and numbers in a variety of sizes on their sheet 95001. They now sell direct on their on line site and from other distributors and retailers. But the alignment and character weight issues are about the same. That leaves custom waterslide decals. ALPS printers are getting harder and harder to find, but you can have the use of one without buying it. Many of the remaining ones are now in use by custom decal shops. Googling "custom decals model railroad" brings up a long list. Pulling a couple from it, Kadee is a major manufacturer in the industry and offers custom decals for about $40 per 8 1/2" x 11" sheet, but seems to have fairly strict requirements for the art files they'll use. Shawmut Car Shops has been around quite a while as a one man shop, is about half the price and seems to be more open on the type of files they'll accept as artwork. Both use ALPS printers. Or try others on the list. I have no connection with any of the sources mentioned. On a custom sheet you could lay out the depth markings on the appropriate angle for the bow, port and starboard, probably a vertical column for the stern, port and starboard, the name for the bow, both sides, and stern and any other markings you might want (Plimsoll marks? boat numbers?) - you can get a lot on an 8 1/2" x 11" sheet - for this and future projects. Bill
  7. Hola, Isidro - Estamos encantados de darle la bienvenida a Model Ship World. Google Translator es suficiente para la mayoria de los mensajes. Hay hablantes nativos de espanol en el foro que pueden ayudar quando sea necessario. (Yo no soy uno de ellos.) Bill
  8. Another consideration you may want to factor in is where the completed model will be displayed. Most homeowners, at least here in the States, tend to prefer warm white to white in their living spaces. Institutions and other public spaces, probably more to the white/blue end. There will be some difference in perceived paint color if mixed/applied under one end of the spectrum and displayed at the other - if you finish your models with paint. Our model railroading cousins frequently come up against this issue when trying to match prototype paint colors. My own preference for brightness level is "the more the better", particularly as I grow older. Full sunlight is on the order of 125,000 lumens per square meter, which I find pretty harsh for prolonged work, but I've never been able to approach that level on my inside work surface even with swing-arm work lights. Bill
  9. Actually, you do. Not much of the "American Neptune" is on line, but the Phillips Library at the Peabody Essex Museum has posted Volumes 1 through 7, here. (Use the "Click here to browse all items in the American Neptune collection." link to get to 1943.) The "American Naval Guns" article is in Volume 3, Number 1, January 1943, pp. 8-18 and Volume 3, Number 2, April, 1943, pp. 148-158. The first article deals primarily with problems of procurement, but includes photographs of a carriage gun and swivel gun recovered from British vessels sunk at Yorktown. The second article lists the proportions of guns and carriages under British (and French) practice and is possibly of more interest to you as it includes diameters and windage allowances. Bill
  10. Ed - I've been following along in silent admiration for quite a while. In reference to your post on Saturday, March 10, Builders In Scale (www.builders-in-scale.com) offers blackened chain in 40 links per inch, which I suspect is as close as you'll get commercially. The 5% difference in size from 42 links per inch would be hard to perceive at 1:72. Bill
  11. If the capstan and windlass were manual, it's likely there was no connection between them. The capstan would have been bolted to the deck/deck beams with no shaft extending down. The force needed for line handling would be provided by the internal gearing of the capstan, unlike the large ships of a hundred years earlier, when more force could be called up by manning the co-axial capstan on the deck below. The photo and drawing on page 98 of the 1915 Hyde catalog illustrate. It's available here, https://archive.org/stream/hydedeckmachiner00hyde#page/n0/mode/2up from the University of Toronto. The "Power Capstan" label refers to the power of the reduction gearing, not an external steam or electric motor. There's an illustration of a similar steam driven capstan a couple of pages later which shows the difference. The Hyde pump brake windlass shown on page 14 of the same file or something similar would probably be appropriate for the Galilee's windlass. Bill
  12. Testor's Model Master line includes both acrylic and enamel color series. The enamels are mostly "military" colors, but that includes a lot of hues. Hobby Lobby carries Model Master and is in most major metropolitan areas. Scalecoat is also solvent based, with Scalecoat 1 formulated for wood and metal and Scalecoat 2 for plastic. Mostly railroad colors, but many of those used the same cheap and available mineral pigments that went into marine paints. For Scalecoat you probably need a traditional hobby shop if you still have one in your part of Texas, or it's available on line from Walthers (www.walthers.com) or from Minuteman Hobbies (www.minutemanscalemodels.com) in New Hampshire, which owns the Scalecoat line. There's a color chart on the Minuteman site. Bill
  13. Another author worth exploring is Dudley Pope and his eighteen book Ramage series. After publishing some naval non-fiction in the 1950's, he was encouraged to take up the genre by C.S. Forester (my personal favorite of the authors mentioned). I'd characterize his work as similar to Forester and Kent. Bill
  14. The White Star Line's Red Jacket would be one possibility. Designed by Samuel Pook of Boston and built by George Thomas Rockland, Maine, she was in the Australian immigrant trade for many years under British colors. Likewise Donald McKay's Lightning, built for the Black Ball Line's Australian trade. Unfortunately, what I can see of the house flag at the mainmast truck doesn't appear to match either of these owners. Assuming the artist was careful about his details (and the rigging in general looks pretty accurate), a positive identification should be possible from the house flag and what is probably the private signal hoisted at the mizzen. House flags of shipping companies can be researched online if someone on this site doesn't recognize it (a clearer closeup would help). Bill
  15. There's a basic rigging plan in Grimwood's American Ship Models, facing page 113. The author suggests "The dimensions of the Oliver Cromwell's spars can be scaled from the rigging plan." Lee's The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625-1860 or Marquardt's Eighteen Century Rigs and Rigging would probably reasonable guides to details of the spars and rigging details.

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