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About CGN39BCO

  • Birthday 09/22/1951

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    Lake Tapps, WA

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  1. Most books on building in scales smaller than 1:96 focus on sailing ships and cover making blocks and rigging. I'm not aware of any commercial sources for blocks at these smaller scales (about the size of the proverbial mustard seed or smaller). Many who work in these scales use wire for rigging, which is easily available on line down to 50 AWG (American Wire Gauge), 0.001"/.025mm. The most general reference for small scales I've found is Ships in Miniature by Lloyd McCaffery. Other works on miniature ship building include Shipbuilding in Miniature by Donald McNarry, Period Ship Modelm
  2. That's because it's an older http:// (non-secure) site rather than an https:// (encrypted) site. Most browsers are now not allowing connection without a couple of additional clicks that you really want to go there (e.g. Show details -> visit this website in Safari). The risk is pretty small if you're not providing credit card or other data while on the site. The site is still up, last updated in summer 2020. No mention of post-retirement plans.
  3. The pages, which are htm files, do read fine. I think you’ll find that the search tool doesn’t work, as I did on my Windows 7 laptop. The search tool and index are in an older version of JavaScript which doesn’t seem to be readable by many current browsers. That’s the problem Paul’s addressing. Bill
  4. Bill - The series of articles you remember were part of John Fryant's "On the Water" column. Jan/Feb 2012 - Introduction/Hull/Propulsion Mar/Apr 2012 - Superstructure May/Jun 2012 - Superstructure July/Aug 2012 - Superstructure Sept/Oct 2012 - "No progress" Nov/Dec 2012 - Propulsion Jan/Feb 2014 - First Voyage Bill
  5. I'm currently working a topsail schooner in 1/96 (many fewer sails) and have found including the (unfurled) sails adds significantly to the modeling time (reef points make ratlines look REALLY INTERESTING by comparison). Using furled sails would allow omission of some the sail detail buried in the furl and save some of that time if you've got both Cutty Sark and Victory in the queue. I've used both cloth (men's handkerchiefs) and Silkspan Lite in 1/96 and have gotten better results from Silkspan Lite - the thickness is much closer to scale. Tom Lauria has a helpful video on YouTu
  6. If you're doing the outer planking and want to follow the prototype, you might want to get a copy of "Pride of Baltimore" by Thomas Gillmer, the naval architect who designed both Pride of Baltimore I and Pride of Baltimore II (~$10). It includes a few photographs of POB II under construction. The scantling plan for POB II on p. 165 states the frames were sided at 9". That information and the photographs on pages 178, 184 and 176 suggest that planking amidships was ~9" wide (slightly under 1/8" in 5/32" scale) and tapered down to about 6" (5/64") at the bow and stern. Gillmer co-authored a
  7. Welcome to Model Ship World. As you no doubt knew before coming on to the site, getting hold of the Leavitt plans for the Lexington isn't easy, but there are a couple more paths to try before falling back on alternative projects. In one of your posts you mention that the plans were published in Popular Mechanics. Actually, it was Mechanix Illustrated. The index for the NRG Journal (available on MSW's sister site) has a citation for Clyde Leavitt and the his plans for the Lexington: Leavitt, Clyde M., author, model builder: model: LEXINGTON plans for LEXING
  8. Very nice work. White lettering is always a problem, speaking as a (mostly) reformed model railroader. From the launch photo at the top of your build log, the depth markings are about 12" high and the name lettering about twice that, or about 1/8" and 1/4" characters on the model. In my experience the alternatives are dry transfers and waterslide decals. "Woodland Scenics Dry Transfer Decals Gothic Numbers White" and "Woodland Scenics Dry Transfer Decals Gothic Letters White" include the characters you need, although you may find the weight of the lines, particularl
  9. Hola, Isidro - Estamos encantados de darle la bienvenida a Model Ship World. Google Translator es suficiente para la mayoria de los mensajes. Hay hablantes nativos de espanol en el foro que pueden ayudar quando sea necessario. (Yo no soy uno de ellos.) Bill
  10. Another consideration you may want to factor in is where the completed model will be displayed. Most homeowners, at least here in the States, tend to prefer warm white to white in their living spaces. Institutions and other public spaces, probably more to the white/blue end. There will be some difference in perceived paint color if mixed/applied under one end of the spectrum and displayed at the other - if you finish your models with paint. Our model railroading cousins frequently come up against this issue when trying to match prototype paint colors. My own preference for brig
  11. Actually, you do. Not much of the "American Neptune" is on line, but the Phillips Library at the Peabody Essex Museum has posted Volumes 1 through 7, here. (Use the "Click here to browse all items in the American Neptune collection." link to get to 1943.) The "American Naval Guns" article is in Volume 3, Number 1, January 1943, pp. 8-18 and Volume 3, Number 2, April, 1943, pp. 148-158. The first article deals primarily with problems of procurement, but includes photographs of a carriage gun and swivel gun recovered from British vessels sunk at Yorktown. The second article lists the proporti
  12. Ed - I've been following along in silent admiration for quite a while. In reference to your post on Saturday, March 10, Builders In Scale (www.builders-in-scale.com) offers blackened chain in 40 links per inch, which I suspect is as close as you'll get commercially. The 5% difference in size from 42 links per inch would be hard to perceive at 1:72. Bill
  13. If the capstan and windlass were manual, it's likely there was no connection between them. The capstan would have been bolted to the deck/deck beams with no shaft extending down. The force needed for line handling would be provided by the internal gearing of the capstan, unlike the large ships of a hundred years earlier, when more force could be called up by manning the co-axial capstan on the deck below. The photo and drawing on page 98 of the 1915 Hyde catalog illustrate. It's available here, https://archive.org/stream/hydedeckmachiner00hyde#page/n0/mode/2up from the University of Toront
  14. Testor's Model Master line includes both acrylic and enamel color series. The enamels are mostly "military" colors, but that includes a lot of hues. Hobby Lobby carries Model Master and is in most major metropolitan areas. Scalecoat is also solvent based, with Scalecoat 1 formulated for wood and metal and Scalecoat 2 for plastic. Mostly railroad colors, but many of those used the same cheap and available mineral pigments that went into marine paints. For Scalecoat you probably need a traditional hobby shop if you still have one in your part of Texas, or it's available on line
  15. Another author worth exploring is Dudley Pope and his eighteen book Ramage series. After publishing some naval non-fiction in the 1950's, he was encouraged to take up the genre by C.S. Forester (my personal favorite of the authors mentioned). I'd characterize his work as similar to Forester and Kent. Bill
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