bridgman

Hi John
 
Yes, I agree with that - the tones of 5th from the right, & as pale as the 2nd from the right. If I could do those I'll be pretty happy.
 
I find that you have to be careful selecting a colour from a small piece, that's to be used on a wide area - whether it's a room or a scale model.

I have a set of Lee Valley square punches. Stock number 50K5903. They work very well for working with styrene and thin stock. You get 6 ranging from 3/16" to 1/2". I highly recommend them. Oh and by the way I bought a set that was dirt cheap from Amazon first thinking it would be great deal. Wrong, very poor quality. Go figure for $14.00 I had high expectations. They do make great paper weights though.

I may as well get into this....... five years ago I had a stent put in my abdominal aorta while undergoing an operation repair an aneurysm that at the time measured 6.4 cm. I've been going for Ultrasound testing annually since the operation with the aorta measuring 5.9 cm every year till my last visit on Tuesday. They think and I stress thy think I've developed an endoleak and the sack is currently measuring 6.4 cm, so we're back to where we were five years ago. 
 
 I have a CT scan scheduled for April 30th to verify the above. I might not have a leak or I could be about to blow? They almost lost me on the operating table five years ago and now, here we are five years later and I'm five years older and I sure don't heal any faster now.  If I do in fact have a endoleak I will require surgery, when that surgery takes place is anyone's guess but I would hope it would be sooner than later. I won't know anything for sure till the 30th. 
 
 Having said the above, I've put Lula on a fast track to get as much done as possible prior to the 30th and that's while doing things around the house to help ensure Maggie's current and future welfare. I wouldn't have said anything but future actions regarding Lula might lead some of you to scratch your heads wondering about my motives behind certain decisions.  
 
  Keith

As if the rest of the piping was simple!  Incredible work, Roel.  I'm in awe every time I look at the pictures of your progress.

I don't know if you all have Hobby Lobby's down there in SE Texas, but I was in my local Hobby Lobby and they had a pretty good assortment of basswood blocks that I thought would be perfect sizes for filler blocks.

I am always looking for wood from the area around me for model building.  There are lots of articles and commentary about the "best" wood for modeling but the discussion seems to center the woods like Box, Cherry, Walnut, etc.
There are a lot of different wood types out there and I think many that we don't think of as model building wood will work just fine.  Bottom line is that any wood that is stable and workable will do.  If a model is to be painted grain is not really an issue.  If a model is going to be left unpainted there are many woods that will look good either with or without staining.  Just my .02, please feel free to let me know what you think on this subject.

Well, sometimes. I'm always sensitive to posts regarding failing eyesight. I lost use of my right eye more than 30 years ago and suffer from a whole swarm of permanent floaters in the left. Many age-related vision issues (though not all) can be treated: near- and far-sightedness and astigmatism with glasses or surgery; cataracts with what is today fairly simple surgery. Macular degeneration is more serious but if caught early it can be arrested. If you've not visited a vision specialist, you should. Don't simply accept that your vision will decrease with age. Many people do and won't seek medical advice. Foolish pride says this half-blind man.
 
You do adapt to low vision. I'd pretty much given up hobby work until about 10 years ago when I discovered that good lighting, magnifying visors and patience can overcome many vision issues. Granted, I'm not as good at small details as I used to be but planning and patience are the most important. You will lose small parts. Have a good number of spares handy. Take frequent breaks. Whenever your eyes are tired or you feel frustrated, find something else to do. Even during long stints of working, focus on things at different ranges every couple of minutes.
 
Well... I'll step down off my soap box now.

Since all of Chris' designs are in 1/64 scale, you will run into the same issue -- and more often. You may need to look into doing kits in 1/32, 1/24, or even larger. You should take a look at Chesapeake Light Craft's model kits -- they are small craft, but done in large scales, e.g., 1/8 scale.

https://www.practical-sailor.com/sails-rigging-deckgear/inflatable-boat-fenders-test
 
 

Interesting names,Chafing mats or Service. I've always known these by the old name baggywrinkles.
 
Dave 

Wipe on Poly works best for me by brushing then wiping with soft cloth after a few minutes. I may make any number of coats till I get the finnish I want .
FWIW, Wipe on Poly is just Poly varnish that has been thinned with mineral spirits.    Maybe 75/25  varnish/thinner.
 
I make my own,  about 50/50. 

Just purchased two copies of the book for my great grandsons birthdays, parents were thrilled a they remember the 
book when they were growing up.
Thanks for the model and reference!
Bridgeman Bob
 

While planking the bulwarks on my Confederacy,I found it difficult to find the right clamp. All had too short a reach,too much tension or just plain junk.
I solved the problem with my wife's clothes peg. Just turn them about face and use some heat shrink for the tips for padding.....Works a treat
 
 

Whatever you try start with a brand new tool and don't use it for anything else.  You will never be able to tell what will or will not work for you by trying tools used on other materials first.  You can always use the brand new tool you tried and found not being the right tool on other tasks after you try it for rigging line but not the other way around.
Kurt
 

For future reference. In my early college days (back in the Dark Ages) at a land grant university I had to take two years of Army ROTC. Part of our cannon fodder training was learning how to polish shoes and brass belt buckles. I guess it really impresses an enemy to find a corpse with polished brass!
 
We used something called "Brasso" to polish the brass belt buckles, buttons and collar insignia. It apparently was composed of a solvent that dissolved oxides and a fine polishing compound. We rubbed it on with cotton and the brass shined up quickly.

Normal household silver or brass polish will do. It comes usually either as cream in pots or semi-liquid in bottles or tubes. Rinse well afterwards.

Oh, wow!   I just learned more than I ever knew about wood just by reading the free sample on Amazon.

This probably won't happen, for the simple reason that as the forum main page gets larger, it get more frustrating to sift through. This balance between too much and not enough has come up regularly in the past -- at one point, believe it or not, we used to have a significant number of additional subforums listed on the main page. Based on member input, coupled with site traffic data, a number of the lesser-utilized forums were eliminated in order to make the remaining forums easier to navigate.
 
Ultimately, no single format will make everyone happy.

Scrapers are very important for shaping especially concave wood surfaces, they are also much faster than sandpaper at removing material while leaving a better finish. I got my mini scrapers at stewmac.com. 
 
Also I've used the convex Veritas palm plane, when sharpened and set correctly it works really well.
 
This little plane set also includes a scraper plane of useful size for ship modeling, I have them too and the steel in the irons is reasonably good and takes a good edge. I refuse to comment on whether I have a tool addiction.

For a good kit, I am looking for reasonable accuracy, reasonable quality of materials, good documentation, quality design and excellent fit.
 
Tamiya used to set the standard for plastic models back in the 1990’s and early 2000s back when I used to build a LOT of armor because their stuff had excellent levels of detail, had minimal flash, wasn’t too expensive, and their kits were fall together quality.
 
Carrying that forward to today, with modern production techniques such as modern photo-etch, 3D printing, modern laser-cutting and CNC milling/machining all stemming from improved 3D modeling, CAD, and CAM, sets the bar higher for a best kit.
 
For a best ship model kit, that would involve laser-cut parts from decent materials that are fall together quality, high quality “castings” (mostly 3D printed), excellent documentation geared to the skill level of the expected builder, a reasonable level of accuracy, customer service after purchase, and a reasonable price.

Quick note: I’m not a big fan of sending kit documentation on disc because some modern computers don’t have CD/DvD drives on them anymore, plus I don’t really want my computer in my primary work area, especially if I’m building in wood.

Parallel blade to the fence is critical, however long time ago I learnt a trick from someone from the defunct now forum, Seaways Ships in Scale, that even better is when you set the blade every slightly out of being parallel, in such a way, that the distal end (from the operator's point of view) of the blade - the one that comes out and up from the table,  is a tiny bit further away from the fence than the proximal (closer to the operator's site) end of the blade - the one that goes down under the table. That way you'll avoid squeezing the wood between the blade and the fence, and hence - the burnt marks.
How to do it simply and quickly?
Place a strip of paper in between the proximal end of a blade and the fence and another strip between the distal end and the fence. Bring the fence close to the blade all the way, so that it touches the paper. If you set the blade as mentioned above, the proximal strip is now tightly wedged between the blade and the fence and if you forcibly try to remove it, it tears. However, the distal strip still can be removed easily without tearing.
The blade is now ready for cutting the wood.
 
Another thought - for ripping the wood, it is best not to use a slitting blade, but rather a blade with larger teeth, preferably with carbide tips (very sharp).

These handles are much better regarding comfort.  They are available from several sources UMM-USA.com -  put "Scalpel" into the search box and hit "enter" - blades and handles will come up.  Scroll down a bit.  Metal handle is about $8 and the plastic type is $5.   I much prefer the metal handle as it is a better fir to my big hands.  There are many tools here and John's prices are very good and he's a small business.
Amazon is another source.

On my sloop there were several different places for tell tails. Some were placed on the standing rigging to observe the apparent wind direction. There were tell tales on the face of the jib to monitor the shape the jib. Then there were tell tails on the leech of the main sail, one at each batten, to monitor the shape of the main. None of these should be confused with the reef ties.

Seems to be based on one of the drawings in Pâris' Souvenirs de la Marine.
 
It would be a good idea to cross reference with some literature, as the dhows do not use European fittings and materials. Since having been to Oman a couple of times (back in the late 1980s) and to Tanzania/Zanzibar (in 2012) I have a certain interest in ships and boats from that region. I have compiled a list of references. Those marked with an E in front are available as digital copies:
 

E   Agius, D.A., Cooper, J.P., Zazzaro, C. (2014): The Maritime Heritage of Yemen: A Focus on Traditional Wooden ‘Dhows’.- In: Agius, D.A., Gambin, T., Trakadas, A [Eds] Ships, Saints and Sealore: Cultural Heritage and Ethnography of the Mediterranean and the Red Sea: 143-157, Oxford (Archaeopress).
 
E   Agius, D.A., Cooper, J.P., Zazzaro, C., Jansen van Rensburg, J. (2014): The Dhow’s Last Redoubt? Vestiges of Wooden Boatbuilding Tradition in Yemen.- Proc. Seminar Arabian Stud., 44: 71-84.
 
B   ANONYM (1979): Oman, a Seafaring Nation.- 196 p., Sultanate of Oman (Min. of Information and Culture).
     ARGYLE, E.W. (1954): The Ancient Dhow.- Seabreeze, New Ser., XVIII: 262-5.
 
     LE BARON BOWEN, R. (1949): Arab Dhows of Eastern Arabia.- Rehoboth, Mass.
 
E   Carvalho, F. da Piedade (2014): Os Dhow do Zanzibar: A técnica de construção de uma antiga embarcação de origem árabe e o seu papel socioeconómico na actualidade.- Cadernos de Estudos Africanos, 27(6): 149-170. DOI: 10.4000/cea.1535.
 
       CHETHAM, M. (1950): Dhows in East Africa.- Country Life, CVIII: 1803-7.
 
E   De Leeuwe, R. (2004): Seascape and Sailing Ships of the Swahili Shores.- MA Thesis: 123 p., Leiden (University of Leiden).
 
K  De Leeuwe, R. (2005): Constructing Sailing Ships on the Swahili Shores.- Azania: Archaeological Research in Africa, 40(1): 107-113.
 
K  De Leeuwe, R. (2006): Swahili Ships in Oceanic Perspective.- Sails of History: Citizens of the Sea,  ZIFF Journal No. 3: 45-52, http://www.swahiliweb.net/ziff_journal_3_files/ziff2006-07.pdf
 
K     Ennion, H. (1963): Along the Shores of the Gulf of Oman.- Country Life, CXXXIII: 1265-6.
 
     ‘FULAHIN’ (1928): Coasting East Africa by Dhow.- Blue Peter, V: 449-52.
 
B     FALCK, W.E. (2013): Boote und Bootsbau in Tansania, Teil 1: Dauen und Einbäume in Dar-es-Salaam.- Das Logbuch, 49(1): 27-30, Köln (AK Historischer Schiffbau).
 
B     FALCK, W.E. (2013): Boote und Bootsbau in Tansania, Teil 2: Bootsbau auf Sansibar.- Das Logbuch, 49(2): 62-65, Köln (AK Historischer Schiffbau).
 
B     FALCK, W.E. (2014): Boats and Boatbuilding in Tanzania (Dar-es-Salaam and Sansibar).- Int. J. Nautical Archaeology, 43(1): 162–173.
 
     GILBERT, E.O. (1997): The Zanzibar Dhow Trade. An Informal Economy on the East African Coast, 1860-1964.- PhD Dissertation: 340 p., Boston (Boston University).
 
B   HAWKINS, C.W. (1977): The Dhow – an illustrated history of the Dhow and its World.- 143 p., Lymington (Nautical Publishing Co.).
 
     HORNELL, J. (1941): The sea-going mtepe and dau of the Lamu Archipelago.- The Mariner’s Mirror, 27: 54-68.      
B   HOWARTH, D. (1977): Dhows.- 159 p., London (Quartet Books Ltd.).
 
E   Issa, A.A. (2006): Dhows and Epidemics in the Indian Ocean Ports.- Sails of History: Citizens of the Sea,  ZIFF Journal No. 3: 63-70, http://www.swahiliweb.net/ziff_journal_3_files/ ziff2006-09.pdf
 
B   JEWELL, J.H.A. (19762😞 Dhows at Mombasa.- 103 p., Nairobi (East African Publ. Ho.).
 
B   MONDFELD, W. (1979): Die Arabische Dau.- 93 p., Bielefeld (Verlag Delius, Klasing & Co.).
 
     MOORE, Sir A. (1940): Notes on Dhows.- The Mariner’s Mirror, 26(2): 205-13.
 
     SASSOON, C. (1970): The Dhows of Dar es Salaam.- Tanzania Notes and Records, 71:185-199.
 
     SHERIFF, A. (2010):  Dhow Cultures of the Indian Ocean. Cosmopolitanism, Commerce and Islam.- XV+351 p.
 
     SPARKS, W. (1909/10): A Muscat Dhow.- Yachting Monthly, VIII: 263.
 
     SULIVAN, G.L. (1873): Dhow Chasing in Zanzibar Waters and on the Eastern Coast of Africa. Narrative of Five Years’ Experiences in the Suppression of the Slave Trade.- X+453 p.
 
     VILLIERS, A.J. (1940): Sons of Sindbad – An Account of Sailing with the Arabs in their Dhows.-
 
     Villiers, A.J. (1954): Passage in a Red Sea Dhow.- The Mariner’s Mirror, 40: 171-82.
 
     Villiers, A.J. (1961): Vanishing Ships – Arab Dhows.- British Petroleum Shield, 5: 6-8.
 
     VOSMER, T. (1993): The Omani Dhow Recording Project: Sultanate of Oman.- Indian Ocean Review, 6(2): 18–21, Perth.
 
E   VOSMER, T. (1997): Indigenous Fishing Craft of Oman.- Internat. J. Nautical Archaeol., 26(3): 217-235.
 
E   VOSMER, T.A., MARGARIT, R.A., TILLEY, A.F. (1992): A Survey of Traditional Vessels of the Sultanate of Oman. The Omani Dhow Recording Project. Field Reasearch 1992.- Department of Maritime Archaeology, Western Australian Maritime Museum, Report No. 69: 80 p.
 
K   WEISMANN, N. (1994): Der Beden-Safar – Eine Rekonstruktion nach Unterlagen von Admiral Pâris.- Das Logbuch, 30(3): 160-67.
 
K   WEISMANN, N. (1995): Ein Fischer-Beden in Qurm (Sultanat Oman).- Das Logbuch, 31(4): 175-82.
 
K   WEISMANN, N. (1996): Der Beden-Seyad – Ein Fischerboot des Omans im letzten Jahrhundert.- Das Logbuch, 32(4): 175-80.
 
E     WEISMANN, N. (1998): The Cargo-Beden Al-Khammam.- Internat. J. Nautical Archaeol., 27(3):237-257.
 
E   WEISMANN, N., STAPLES, E., GHIDONI, A., VOSMER, T., DZIAMSKI, P., HAAR, L. (2014): The Battīl and Zārūqah of Musandam, Oman.- Int. J. Nautical Archaeol., 43(2): 413–435.
 
B     WIEBECK, E., WINKLER, H. (2000): Segler im Monsun. Die Dau am Indischen Ozean.- 130 p., Rostock (Neuer Hochschulschriftenverlag).
 
     WISEMAN, W.F (1994): Modeling a Ninth-Century Arab Dhow.- Nautical Res. J., 40: 5-17.
 
B   YA’QUB, Y. Al-Hiji (2001): The Art of Dhow-building in Kuwait.- 164 p., London (The London Centre of Arab Studies).
 
And an on-line resource: https://www.maritima-et-mechanika.org/maritime/tanzania/tanzania.html