tasmanian
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tasmanian reacted to KUDIN in LE FLEURON 1729 by KUDIN - 1/48 scale - Kudin Andrey - YouTube
Good night everybody! I suggest watching the video:
CLOSED PORT FOR GUNS
What is badly seen in the video is better seen in these photos:
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tasmanian reacted to Hubac's Historian in LE FLEURON 1729 by KUDIN - 1/48 scale - Kudin Andrey - YouTube
Hello, Kudin. You’re Fleuron looks truly outstanding. I will gladly follow along on this one!
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tasmanian reacted to Jeronimo in LE FLEURON 1729 by KUDIN - 1/48 scale - Kudin Andrey - YouTube
Very good work.
Karl
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tasmanian reacted to KUDIN in LE FLEURON 1729 by KUDIN - 1/48 scale - Kudin Andrey - YouTube
Hello! It turned out that the gray color of rigging is wrong! Returned to beige (+ toning):
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tasmanian reacted to KUDIN in LE FLEURON 1729 by KUDIN - 1/48 scale - Kudin Andrey - YouTube
So soon, I can close the gun ports that I worked on in this film!
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tasmanian reacted to EricWilliamMarshall in Chesapeake Bay Flattie by EricWilliamMarshall - FINISHED - Midwest Products - Scale 1:32 - SMALL
I also attempted: to sew a set of sail, I tried paper, cloth, spray stiffener, etc. I found I couldn't use the iron "at scale" to fold over the edges of a sail. Both sewing and paper are worth more work but are slightly out of reach due to skill and resource constraints.
I tried using an acrylic paste over plastic wrap over a mold.
When drying the whole arrangement, I (re)discovered the principle behind shrink-wrap, which led to wrinkles in the sail. There is potential for the paste but I need to play around a bit more for it to be presentable.
I tried using a foam tile as a possible mold:
That worked well seemingly so until I saw the back:
At the moment, just paint the sail with polyurethane has proved best so far. That allows me to skip trying to iron over the seams without have too many loose ends.
Little by little...
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tasmanian reacted to EricWilliamMarshall in Chesapeake Bay Flattie by EricWilliamMarshall - FINISHED - Midwest Products - Scale 1:32 - SMALL
I made some rings for the mast out of brass wire:
And blackened them.
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tasmanian reacted to samson in Cutty Sark by samson - Billing Boats
then all yards are formed - 16 in total, the last 10 still missing the yard strengthansers rope. but at least I'm back on track after a long break. it's nice to get started again and get the dust off the "old lady".
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tasmanian reacted to Jaager in Ship Building Workshop
One rule from biological research labs: You can never have too much bench space.
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tasmanian reacted to Castos in Ship Building Workshop
Good Day
I have recently extended my carport at home and now have an are 6mX4m which I am going to close for a workshop.
I have drawn up a plan (attached) on how the layout will be. Please advise if it is correct or any modifications that need to be done.
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tasmanian reacted to CPDDET in Switched from X-Acto to Excel blades......
Yep, half of grandad's old strop was hanging on the kitchen door knob, a reminder to stay in line.
55 years later I'm using one everyday for shaving.
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tasmanian reacted to ahb26 in Bowdoin 1921 by ahb26 - FINISHED - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - Scale 1:48
I did that, but the piece split as soon as I put something in the hole. Boxwood would have been better, I think, but basswood is what I have.
I finished making up the blocks involved in the sheets. The deck-end blocks all hook to travelers so I strapped those blocks with wire - my first successful attempt at that technique (although it took multiple tries to get there).
The main sheet's top block hooks to a hefty U-shaped bracket on the boom (in the contemporary ship at least). I tried to replicate that:
Here are the booms and blocks on the plan showing how they're rigged:
One nice aspect of this arrangement is that I can rig all the sheets off the ship before I install the booms, then simply hook each sheet to its traveler.
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tasmanian reacted to jwvolz in Benjamin W Latham by jwvolz - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:48
Planksheer outer strip is installed and the bulkhead extensions that were previously removed have been replaced and shaped to follow the curve of the hull, both inboard and out. Next up will be fabricating the false frame extensions that go between the ones shown here. There are two between each bulkhead.
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tasmanian reacted to drobinson02199 in Cutty Sark by drobinson02199 - FINISHED - Mantua/Sergal - Scale 1:78
Foremast shrouds now rigged.
Regards,
David
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tasmanian reacted to mugje in Twist in the lower shrouds/ratlines
Busy with the ratlines! The first batch ready, it wasn't easy but i'm pretty happy with the result.
The only thing is, that there is a twist in it, from top to bottom. Probably because of the paint and glue that added some
stiffness to the whole.
Anyone an idea what I can do about that? Or is there in this stage nothing what I can do to fix this?
On the first not so sharp picture you can see the problem.
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tasmanian reacted to bigcreekdad in Miniature lumber and milled strips
If you have a mini table saw you can get decent cherry sheets from Woodcraft. I used it to plank my Dos Amigos and was very pleased.
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tasmanian reacted to drobinson02199 in Cutty Sark by drobinson02199 - FINISHED - Mantua/Sergal - Scale 1:78
I'm doing this ship differently than the other two rigged ships I've built. On those, I mounted all the yards on all the masts before doing any of the standing rigging.
On this one, in addition to the shrouds on the foremast, I've decided to do the foremast stays as well, and then complete mounting the yards. I'm concerned that if I don't tension the foremast now, I'll have problems in two areas: (i) The remaining yards, which have only the yard lifts for vertical support, might move a bit up or down as the mast is tensioned by the stays, and (ii) I don't want any "wrinkles" in the ratlines due to slight shifting of the shrouds.
So finish foremast stays and bowsprit stays, then hang the remaining foremast yards, and then do the foremast ratlines. Then move on to the main in the same way. We'll see how that works.
Pictures of progress to date on the foremast are below.
Regards,
David
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tasmanian reacted to drobinson02199 in Cutty Sark by drobinson02199 - FINISHED - Mantua/Sergal - Scale 1:78
I've built the lowest yard on the foremast -- pictures attached.
The brass swivel fitting gives about a 90 degree swing to this yard, which I think could spell trouble while I'm building, so my next move will be to put up the foremast shrouds to give some side support to the yard. The upper shrouds are already rigged so they will support the next yard up, and then the ones above have wooden fittings which will be stiffer. I was originally reluctant to fix the masts too soon as I thought I might want to remove them to mount these lower yards with brass swivels, but now that I've done it it's actually easier with them fitted on the ship.
The swivel assembly on the yard is difficult and a bit fragile -- took a couple of tries to get it right.
Regards,
David
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tasmanian reacted to petervisser in Cutty Sark by petervisser - Billing Boats - Scale 1:75
I also worked on the foc'sle. My initial attempt did not work out so well as I was using the deck the previous owner had cut out. It proved to be too small and there were large gaps between it and the hull planking. Unfortunately I had already planked it so that proved to be a waste of effort, and wood...
Again, I traced the outer contour of the hull in that area and got the shape of the foc'sle deck. I applied the planking while the false deck was in place because I wanted the camber. To do this and hold the planks in place while the glue was setting I could not use any type of clamping. So I devised a new method of holding them in place with magnets. I taped the magnets to the underside of the deck and placed the other magnets atop the glued on deck planks.
Here are a couple of pictures to show what I mean.
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tasmanian reacted to petervisser in Cutty Sark by petervisser - Billing Boats - Scale 1:75
Thanks for asking Popeye, as a matter of fact there is!
I have been preocupied with summer and some post retirement work, but managed to sneak in a few hours over the last couple of weeks. Just thought I would share some photos of the progress.
The area around the stern is what needed doing next after the majority of the hull planking was applied. I wanted to do this area before completing the gunwales.
The length of each plank on the hull allowed me to reach from the bow to the last bulkhead. So I decided to do this and leave the stern for a separate planking application. It seemed to me it would waste less wood and I could decide on a solution of applying a severe bend around the stern. I am aware of other builders installing vertical plank(ettes) around the transom and I thought I might end up doing the same. But in the end I decided to to things a bit differently as you will see by the pictures.
The first step was to apply some planking under the counter of the stren so that the transom would cover the ends. Here are a few photos of that process...
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tasmanian reacted to keelhauled in Cutty Sark by petervisser - Billing Boats - Scale 1:75
Looking good! Keep up the fine work!
best
Marc
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tasmanian reacted to kpnuts in Cutty Sark by kpnuts - Artesania Latina
Hi all I have done some of the planking I've cut the planks at 70mm which I think in this equates to 10 yards at this scale (although the planking supplied is I think is over scale at about 12"wide ) I'm not going to add the nail heads as I've seen on the printed decks available in this scale as I dont believe a nail with a head diameter of 6 mm would be visible at this scale at.
The planking is very slow going but quite satisfying.
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tasmanian reacted to NenadM in Cutty Sark by NenadM
Finaly, one of the most important milestone is near
Haveing made a stairs for front deck, I finished making all parts of main deck content
Now, just to clean dust, and "Lego" game can start. I have to glue all parts, and, o happy me, I can proceed to next stage - masts and spars
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tasmanian reacted to Peta_V in AVOS by Peta_V - FINISHED - Master Korabel - scale 1/72 (exclusive kit) - Russian tender
Second bulwark rail in place, it needs the final sending still. I have started planking the deck furniture. First latrine under the planks.
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tasmanian reacted to rwiederrich in Tar on dead-eyes and hearts
Since none of us are first hand experts, to weather blocks or deadeyes of period ships....(and generally any ship built between 1700~1900), were weathered brown or black based on the material supposedly used to preserve standing rigging at the time....is actually factual....we have to do a lot of guessing based on preferences..
Many paintings are virtually unclear. What is clear, is the practice of using a preservative on lanyards(blocks and deadeyes) was a factual reality, was it *Dark*, probably. How that application actually looked on a weathered(or new) vessel is simply speculative.
I tend to follow the logic of the experts....since the Historian restorers and nautical architects determined the Frigate CONSTITUTION required black deadeyes and lanyards, I tend to replicate all my clippers with the same. Feeling confident I'm not far off from the truth.
Rob
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