Ryland Craze

Wow that is excellent service 😮
 
I'm sorry to hear about your test results and hope you have a speedy recovery. Take care of yourself, Patrick!
 
Cheers from Australia,
 
Ron

the "tissue" is from a roll of paper used in factories,garages. To dry hands after washing, clean up oil or dirt, ect.
low quality paper, but suited for furled sails.

Smal update
The sails are finished and i started with the rigging.
 
The aim is to apply as much rigging as possible. 
Since I am not an expert in 18th century rigging, there may be something here and there that is not entirely correcty

Thanks for following

I have made some progress on my Longboat and I shared this with the members of the Ship Model Society of New Jersey during last nights Zoom meeting.  The mast has been finished by adding the simulated  iron bands and eyebolts.  I made the two upper iron bands using 1/16" wide chart tape and then formed the eyebolts using 22 gauge wire.  I then weathered the iron bands and eyebolts with Tamyia rust weathering powder to give it some contrast.
 

 
For the lower iron band, I used some black masking tape cut into a 3/32" wide strip and then made an eyebolt using 18 gauge wire.  The hook in the boom was also made using 18 gauge wire.
 

 
I also added the knees and belaying pins.  The knees were painted off the model and then glued to the thwarts.  I used some 1/16" wide chart tape to help align them onto the thwart before gluing.  The belaying pins were turned using my dremel and some small files.

 
The horse was made using the supplied 20 gauge wire.  It was blackened and then a 1/4" block was seized to the horse before attaching the horse to the stern.
 

 
My next step is to fit the pedestals that came with the engraved base from Syren Ship Model Company to the hull.  I feel it would be difficult to handle the hull while trying to install the pedestals with the mast and rigging installed. 

Welcome Bud! I’m relatively new here as well. I’m on my first build. There are a lot of great, helpful people here. So, ask and enjoy.

Hey Bud,
North Carolina newbie calling in return to say welcome to the group...You will fit right in, and if you stay a while, I hope you too will find it a rewarding and encouraging environment.  Lot's of talent out there willing to share information, opinions and advice.  Share your work and experience if you can by doing a build log and we can follow along from afar.
Cheers (and get out your vote),
Brian

I present a new model, although it is true that with its already advanced construction process.
 
As I made the hull using my usual technique, which I have shown on the forum several times, there is no photo of this part of the process. It should also be noted that the masts are only presented and are not final, neither because of their length nor because of the inclination with which they appear.
 
And now, by way of introduction, a brief historical overview of this type of boat. Until the end of the 19th century, in the region of Port-Louis, in Brittany, coastal fishing for roe sardines practiced in good weather was supplemented by winter trawling of other larger species. This task was carried out with solid open boats, of about 10 m. in length and 2.80 m. wide, with a draft of 0.70 m. The winter sea conditions are harsh in these waters, which makes it very difficult to work in the open air on these open boats, which is why, in 1882, a boss from Lorient took the initiative to equip his boat with a temporary deck, which is armed against winter and disassembled in good weather.
 
In turn, as coastal fishing became more and more scarce, fishermen went deeper and deeper into the open sea, and soon these removable deck boats began to be used for trawling in rougher waters, for which they did not present the adequate nautical characteristics. For this reason, in a short time the deck boats evolved, with a permanent deck, but they were made with the same shapes as the large open boats, retaining their main U-shaped section, but providing them with a planking above and solidly decked, fitted with a windlass and higher masts, so all the weight was added at the top and had to be balanced with ballast. But the maintenance of the main U-shaped section prevented placing this ballast (essential in a trawler) sufficiently low. In addition, the righting moment of a hull of this U-section has a high initial stability which decreases very quickly with pronounced angles of inclination, which makes these ships very sensitive high waves and sea blows. These decked boats, with an elegant appearance, showed that their nautical qualities were not adequate for the conditions of navigation on the high seas. Between 1891 and 1900, eleven of them were shipwrecked, resulting in the stoppage of their production and their replacement by small dundées, which prove to be much safer.

By the way, I bought this really great foam hull cradle from Micro-Mark, and I really like it.  It’s made of a nice quality foam that’s firm, but pliable.  And it’s cut into two different sized cradles, which fit one-inside-the-other, for different sized hulls.  It’s turned out to be a great thing for doing tasks like the second planking, when I have had to press a plank down quite firmly to hold it in position while the CA dries.  With this foam cradling the hull, I am not worried that I’m going to crush or damage anything.  I really recommend it.
 
Here’s the link:
https://www.micromark.com/Triple-Duty-Foam-Cradle-for-Models-and-Ships
 
 

Thanks, Jim.  I have to say that I am really enjoying this.  I work hard at my profession, and the days are hectic and sometimes stressful, so when I can get a few minutes out in my shop to work, it’s a pleasure.  It’s therapeutic.  
 

I've been swamped with work and other distractions, so progress has been slow, but I am chipping away at the second pearwood planking layer.  Per the suggestion of Chris and Jim, I've been preparing each plank, tapering and beveling as required, and then gluing it in place using thick CA gel.  This works very well.  The gel gives you the delay in set-up time that's necessary to get the plank into correct position before it hardens up.  Here's a few progress shots.  I've been working my way up from the garboards, and down from the gunwales, alternatively. 
 

 
I've been beveling the edges of the planks where necessary to allow them to fit closely together without large gaps.  I've been using this big sanding block to bevel the planks.  It's long enough that I can sand in a bevel over a long length easily.
 

 
Here's a couple more shots of the start of the second planking.  Slow and steady.
 

Since my last update, I added the interior paint over the primer which turned out being slightly darker than the primer itself although honestly not a whole lot different. I thinned it a little but I had more than enough to get me through with extra to spare.
 
I also added the mahogany band:
 

 
In the instructions it looked like where the band meets the stem and stern, it was kept blunt but I decided to sand them down so that they curved with the hull:
 

 
After that I glued in the seats and installed the oar locks. I painted the oar lock wood white before cutting each one individually and rounded out the edges:
 

 
Here's how she turned out with an overview shot:
 

 
And a look at the plank stain against the grey interior:
 
]
 
I do kind of wish I had not gone darker on the plank stain because two coats basically made the entire thing the same wood shade as the mahogany band. But not really a big deal. I think it came out pretty nice anyway.
 
Now onto the final details and the sail. I'm not sure why but I'm not really looking forward to making the sail/rigging. I know this is a very entry level model and the most basic of riggings but it just doesn't excite me as much as working with all of the other parts. So I'm procrastinating a bit and made a couple of lobster buoys as well as started on the lobster cage and line bucket:
 

 
An old pill bottle works perfectly for shaping the circular wood strips for the lobster cage. I forgot about the center brace in the cage so I'm soaking another wood strip above and about to form it on the pill bottle to shape and dry overnight before continuing.
 

 
And here are my little buoys. I used the opportunity to try out a few different paint colors (as you can see one is matte and one is gloss). It was interesting to see how quickly some dried where others would take twice as long. And there was a big difference between thickness so it would take half a dozen coats for the red (for example) whereas the yellow only needed a couple.
 

So a full day of masking, and the superstructures painted. Filters washes and weathering to go. 

Some progress on my Lusitania. That big deck is giving me lots of trouble to install as the hull is a bit warped. Just making things worse trying to fix it after it's glued. Best to just leave it be.

I use a toothpick (sharpened) and a disposable weighing boat. Just pop a spot into the boat and use the pick to apply. 
Sharpen the pick as necessary. 
 
No need for fancy tools.
 

Thanks for looking in Moab and for your kind comment, and ditto Grant and John, much appreciated.


 
Thank you Jason and Bob.
I’m no expert on Silver soldering but using the paste in a syringe is a great help.

Basic silver soldering is quite easy, things like making strops and joining rings are quickly picked up.

The main things to consider are:

 Having the metals clean.

 Working out how you are going to secure the parts during the process.

Ensuring a close connection, Silver solder has no gap filling qualities.

As soon as the silver flashes, the job is done, remove part and dip.

If you want to join more than one part to another, you will need different melt point pastes, so that the first isn’t melted when the second is attached.

The piece I was most pleased with was adding two small rings at right angles to a stanchion for the guard rails on my Pegasus build.

Cheers,
 
B.E.

Aurifil is expensive but looks pretty good. Limited colors in 80wt though.  
 
here are some of my Aurifil samples. It looks better and behaves well when treated with watered down white pva.

good evening everyone
 
day 51 1/2 deck reworks
 
i have spent the last day or do getting used to my power tools, at last i am getting confident with them
so on the 4th attempt i have one of the after 1/2 decks that fits the hull and im happy with it
the size is right and the height, however the wood used is not true to scale, but for now im going with it, again 1/2 will be planked, the slightly lower one is still being made, im unsure of the names for these decks, ( i will find out)

 
 
 

Thanks!
 
I used temporary spacers to make sure the frames sat properly on the hog or rising wood.  The double frames are constructed so that half the frame sits a little deeper than the rest of the frame.  The frame locks in place.  It can’t move once seated.  I then used epoxy the glue ar the frames in place and faired the inside of the hull.  The spacers above the waterline are glued in place.  The hull is strong enough to remove the transverse support of the jig top for and aft.  Makes it easier to work inside!  

Really liking that paint job. 
 
Not to push you in either direction, but first builds can also be a good time to try the repair 😉. Nice tweezer and nice files are really good tools to have. I’d consider at least filing down the frames that extend to far on the left window when you are facing them. 
 
 

The late modeler Steve Wheeler has often said "the trash can is your best tool"
 
Having said that, I hate re-doing things. But if you're not happy, I think it's necessary. Go for it and make yourself proud!
 
Nic

IMHO
If you are not happy now, think of how it will eat at you for the next 20 years.
 
If it is truly a learning lesson what is to be lost by taking it off and trying again.
 
Only lesson learnt is by doing it over until you're  satisfied.  If something gets damaged, do that over too.  You will be glad you did... eventually.
 
I was so reluctant to remove items... now I don't  think twice about it...but it did hurt the first few times.
 
 
 

Got my windows cut, mounted and framed. I’m not really happy with my job on this one. I was pondering taking it all off and trying again, but I am afraid of ruining the paint job and making an overall mess of everything. So, I decided to use it as a learning lesson. Isn’t that what first builds are for?
I would definitely use a different method when cutting plexiglass. Also, I think I need better tweezers. I don’t have any with serrated blades, so everything seems to slip a lot. 
 

 

You can also burn it off your applicator.

Status update:
 
Rigging the sheet and clew lines takes a lot of time, but there's not much to look at. Next up are the Royal yards.
 

Did the final parts to the boats and they are all glued into place. Another big step complete.
 
There was a bit in the middle of the deck which I had to cut out otherwise the boats wouldn’t fit at all.
 

 
Then once I’d glued on the PE that had broken off during the renovations I got the boats and did another dusting of white from a vertical angle then a black wash which after 5 mins was washed off to leave just a hint of well maintained but won’t stand out as being to crisp. Then did a dark grey wash on the hulls and just didn’t wash it off.
 

 
now they are glued into place.
 
The plans show there to be ether smaller boats or a lot bigger deck...
 

 
because mine don’t have the same space haha!
 

 
Poms poms and ammo boxes left...