Ryland Craze

Mark and Pat, thanks for looking in.
 
The mast partner has been installed and now it is time to install the upper deck clamps.  There are four strakes and an air space between the top of the lower deck and the upper deck beams.  The first task was to measure the top of the beams on the draughts and transfer this to the Mylar.  The sheer is less pronounced fore and aft than shown on the Mylar.  This height was then marked on the inside of the hull and a strip of tape was placed to ensure a smooth run for this line and also make sure that the line is parallel to the gun port sills.  The second photo shows the model laid on its side in order to show the run of the clamp to the stemson.  The beams are 7" in height and let into the clamp 1".  Therefore I measured down 6" to find the height of the top of the clamp.  This line was marked in pencil. 
 

 

 

 

I just 'tried' to take a few pics of the quarterdeck/poop area, to show it before the new bulkheads arrive, but they didn't come out too well. If you wanted yo, you could leave out the bulkheads and have the deck 'cleared for action', as the deck (all the decks, in fact) extend right to the end of the stern - no hacking and slashing required...
 





 
Seems like I go out of the way to hide the fact that the hull is wood....

 
Gun port lids are as to scale as they can be. Too often I see way too thick lids in kits, usually at least 2mm thick! If you look at this picture I taken of the real thing, they are not that thick:

 
Also note the lack of sill on the lower inside edges of the gun port openings.

Here are some shots of the stern. Obviously, I have not trimmed planks down to the outside edge of the lower lower counter yet. I welcome any comments on the shape of the stern filler pieces. I am not sure I shaped them correctly  . In hindsight, it would have been better to carve blocks. It would take longer but would be easier for me to visualize. I also need to adjust the transom horizontal pieces again. I seem to struggle even though I have used a pattern.
Looking forward to more posting. Thanks to Anja and Chuck for helping this computer challenged Luddite figure out how to set up the log. Also thanks to Russ and others who encouraged me too start the log
Best
Jaxboat 

I sometimes think the too easy "entry level" kits actually discourage builders. My first build was a solid-hull America's cup racer. I was able to do it with little more than a linolium knife and the smallest bits for my hand drill. It came out OK, but I had no real sense of accomplishment and wondered why I'd spent $50 on a cheap wooden kit..
A couple of years later I saw a library display on modeling with Frank Mastini's book prominently displayed. I picked up the book, read all about plank on bulkhead kits and soon had an itching to build another ship kit.
I read the Mastini book, which actually gives pretty good advice on picking a first kit. Based on his book, I chose the Constructo Enterprise, a fairly straight-foward schooner that's double-planked (which I agree with Mastini is a must for any first kit), but one that had lots of guns (something the little boy in me still demands).
Now I in no way, shape and form have any wood-working skills. And I was really intimidated when Christmas morning rolled around and my wife presented me with what I told friends was basically "a box of sticks."
But following the Mastini book (the Constructo instructions are terrible, although the ship plans are good) I was able to build a ship model that I was really proud of.
When my father-in-law (who is a marvelous woodworker) saw it and began talking that he'd like to try a kit, I went to Mastini and chose the Bluenose for him. I gave him that, some basic tools and a copy of Mastini for Christmas one year and now he has one ship under his belt and is working on a second.
So I guess what I am saying is that if I were to recommend an "entry level" kit, it would be something plank on frame that is double planked, relatively inexpensive and is either single- or double-masted. I would also insist that the new hobbyist get themselves a copy of Mastini, because I think good instructions and explanations of the concepts behind shipbuilding are key to a successful build.
I think what happens too often is that folks buy kits and either screw up very early due to things like fairing the frames being left out of the instructions, or get discouraged by bad instructions and give up.
If I had to do it over again, I'd probably build the MS Armed Virginia Sloop or Fair American as a first kit. I can't recommend the NIagara or Pride of Baltimore, as they seem to be single-plank on bulkhead, and I think the double plank is really a must for a first kit.But I do think Model Shipways instructions are so clear and do a good job of laying out the basic concepts of building that even their intermediate kits could easily be built by a beginner.

I've finished rigging the anchors, I went with having them lashed since I'm planning on having her under sail.
I was ready to pull my hair out rigging the bouys...  that was a very fiddly task, and causes me to worry somewhat about the rigging process.
The cannons are loosly placed, next is to rig the tackle and bond them in place.
I need to build my block tumbler to help out with all the cannon tackle blocks, I purchased a set of 1/8" blocks to use instead of the 5/32" ones.
I want to finish the bowsprit, I've been looking for a pine stain that is waterbase, and may try a couple different paints that are close in color.

Joining the build here. I have been delaying my start as I was afraid of the rabbet. I have never needed to worry about this before but it is time for the plunge.



 
Took the first move and beveled the edge as the instructions say...not without first sending a PM to Chuck for some guidance. Luckily he is a nice guy and answered my stupid questions.
 


 
Gave it a light sanding to remove any grooves from the chisel

 
I then treated the pieces with wood conditioner. I like the little bit of color the conditioner brings out as compared to an unconditioned piece.

 
I also used 320 grit paper to remove the burn marks from all the bulkheads and have conditioned them as well. I don't plan to stain my build, I really like the color of the natural wood, but I do like what the conditioner does to the wood, so I plan to continue using it on the other pieces as well.

 
Now...time to add glue to the mix....

Keith Julier is my friend and we still keep in contact - although I have heard nothing since Christmas. He is a great guy, and is getting on a bit now and unfortunately, cannot really model any longer. It was his review of Euro Model's Royal William that inspired me to try the Sovereign of the Seas - and before that, it was his reviews that got me started with wooden ship kits - it is fair to say that Keith has been my biggest inspiration, and the nicest man you are ever likely to meet.
 
@Mike Draper - Bellona was used as a 'test bed' for new design techniques, of which Victory is the result. Bellona will certainly become a kit, but I do need to implement substantial re designs after the further lessons learned from Victory. Bellona will be like HMS Fly on super-steroids!

Here are some photos of the Freezer Paper in use.  
 
First, I cut out some freezer paper in 8x11.5 sheets, and flattened them by wrapping them around a piece of pvc a few times.  When the curl wasn't so pronounced I loaded it into the printer and then copied part of a plan sheet (Mayflower by Chuck, purchased from Model Expo) and printed it to the freezer paper.
 

 
Then I cut out the bulkheads I was interested in, positioned them on a sheet of 1/32 plywood, and laid a medium-hot iron on top of them for about ten seconds - done.  I can now cut out the bulkheads on my scroll saw.  The freezer paper is adhered well enough that the saw doesn't pull it off the wood.
 

 
Hope this helps.
 
Frank
 

No building for me today. A quiet day. I was somewhat surprised and gladdened  by the number of flags flying on our street, not only today but all weekend. Not only known "American" homes but Immigrant homes as well. 
Thanks you Vets, each and every one of you.
Sam

Hi Mike,
 
Of course! First planking is 1.5x6mm limewood and second is 1x5 walnut:
 



 
Second planking:


 
Followed by wales:



 
And while the hull is free from clutter:


 
Chris

Hi,
 
I am sorry it took so long to re-register - but I have been very busy - plus my internet has been intermittent.
 
Whilst developing and building the Victory prototype, I have made many changes 'on the fly' - sometimes for realism/previous part not quite right to adding more detail - especially the stern windows.
 
I have just completed the boat designs, anchors (100mm long!) and made four new cannon barrel masters - here are some pics:
 

 
Copper plates laid in two distinct bands:
 

 
Rudder is very easy to copper.....:
 

 
Main Channel:
 

 

 

 

 

 
Checking the cannon masters:
 

 
As for release dates for kits, I am sorry, I cannot help. I have as much idea as you, as I only design and develop the kits, and have nothing to do with release strategy....
 
 
Chris

Wow. You guys are much too kind. I really enjoyed reliving the build through the reposting and I'm delighted that others got some enjoyment as well.
 
I have no other photos, Christian.
 
Brian, when has any modeler not believed that they could have done better.
 
Bob

I posted this picture of the longboat and Atalanta under the longboat build log.  I am reposting it here for future reference.
 

I have finished the remaining details and have permanently mounted the longboat on its stand.  The anchor flashing was removed and it was painted flat black.  I looked at the prototype on the NMM website and noted that the anchor cable goes through a ring, not through the anchor itself.  It is a heavy, dark left-hand twist rope.  I happened to have just the thing left over from rigging my Victory and used that instead of the kit supplied material.  The rope coils have been added and the paint touched up as necessary.
 
This was a fun build and although I used a lot of replacement material, I think it is a great project that won't take forever to complete.
 

 

 

 

 

 

This installment covers the completion of the mast installation and standing rigging.This work began with the installation of the topmasts and their pendants, shrouds, ratlines,stays and backstays .It continued with  the jibboom with it's horses, thimbles and traveler and also the bowsprit horses and netting. It finished with the topgallant masts and their shrouds, stays and backstays. As with the lower masts, the work proceeded from the mizzen forward.  The last photo shows the model with the masting and standing rigging complete.
 
Bob

A belated Happy Birthday Ryland. Glad to hear you had a good day with the grand kids. Hope your wishes come true!

If time truly flies when you are having fun, I must be having a ball because I have no idea where the last 2 weeks went. The following photos show my progress to date.
 
Starting forward and working my way aft we have:

deadflat 1 - I have to add chocks to this. All joints are glued and tape keeps things flagged as fragile until I can add the chocks. It looks as though the top of the starboard side is out of alignment, that is the gap under the piece as well as a dollop of parallax.
 

1 forward - complete except to sand down the chocks. I left most proud because it made them easier for me to handle. They will all pay a visit to the oscillating sander before long.
 

1 aft - top timbers still needed.
 

2 aft - complete.
 

3 aft - top timbers needed.
 

4 forward - complete
 

4 aft - top timbers needed.
 

5 forward - complete
 

5 aft - top timbers needed.
 
You may have noticed that deadflat 0 is missing. I noticed that too. I suspect that I pulled it out of the line up when I noticed some imperfection. Since this is my first effort at this sort of thing as I learn my work gets gradually better. A piece that early on was shown with great pride to friends and neighbors and anyone I met on the street doesn't pass muster a week later. I think that is called progress.
 
During the workshop Greg told me (several times) to leave a little meat on the pieces when I sand so that I have something to work with when it comes to fairing the hull. Back when I was a cabinet maker I'd be presented with a piece of wood with a line drawn on it. I'd ask the person giving it to me if he wanted me to leave the line, divide the line or erase the line with the cut. Leaving more than a whisper of wood outside the line is a habit I'm having trouble breaking. Maybe when it comes time to fair this I'll learn.
 
Still learning. Still having fun learning!
 
 

Hi
Thanks for the further feedback.
 
Ken - I wrapped the ropes tightly around spaced steel pins and the painted with diluted white glue. Tied them off with a couple of coils perpendicular to the main coil and then draped and shaped them around the belay point. See attached image.
 
Kyjack - Thanks. It was my first build too except for a strange attempt at a Dutch Whaler by Sergal many years ago. There are many other AVS builders here. I am sure they, like I, will help if you have any questions. It builds into a beautiful model and the scale is relatively easy to handle. Good luck and, most importantly, enjoy it. I look forward to seeing your build log!
 
Cheers
Alistair

Happy Birthday "Old Man,"  glad to see you are still vertical...  Feel free to collect a Birthday Drink on me next Saturday after the  monthly meeting!    
 
Cheers,
Tim

Hello Ryland,
 

 
Happy birthday and have a wonderful day,
 
Anja

The poop deck has now been planked using contact adhesive. The caulking is just pencil on both faces of the planks. I don't like too much of a contrast there.
The bulwark sides were made up off the vessel and painted before being glued into place to avoid damaging the deck with stray sanding or paint. I might add a small beading strip along the front of the poop to cover the face of the ply. It's not too visible but I notice it sometimes.
 

 
A shot of the stern and overall view so far. No more building today- my wife is whisking me away on a mystery night away for our wedding anniversary. She's even stowed the kids with their grandparents. Magic!
 

 

I had a little fun with the oars.  I laid out all eight oars in the boat prior to shaping and found it a bit overwhelming.  I decided to go with four oars, instead.  The red looked a little boring to me so I added a white stripe for contrast and applied the same decorative medallion found on the rudder to the oar blades.
 

Hello all,
 
Things have been a bit crazy for me lately, and I haven't had a lot of time to work on the longboat.  However, since my last post, I did finish the planking, but I certainly didn't break any records!  Here are a series of photos that show my progress.  In this next photo, I have five planks left on each side, and I'm using the Magic Tape method to spile the planks.

With only four planks to go on each side, the spiling is becoming noticeably easier.

Whith only three planks to go, I stopped spiling and formed the planks by eye.

At this point, because the curve of the planks wasn't that great, I was able to do a true edge-bend on the planks.

As you can see in this next photo, the bend is not that great.  There were only two left on each side at this point.

In this photo, the next to last plank is being mounted.  If I had to do it over again, I probably would have tapered the previous three or four planks a little bit more at the bow.

Here are a series of photos of the completed planking job.  This little hull has very pleasing lines,

Looking great Ryland.  I can't wait to get home and start building again...2 more weeks.
 
                    Bob R.

Thanks Ben and Grant.
 
I added the boom sheet and temporarily secured it to the horse.  In fact, all of the lines are only temporarily tacked down with dilute white glue so that I can make any necessary adjustments after the line has stretched.  The gaff has been made and installed;  it is not glued to the mast.  The parrel beads in the kit did not blacken well so I will touch them up with black paint later.  The rigging line feels like a polyester product and even with stretching and wetting it still has memory.  For this reason I wetted the lines with dilute white glue to give it some stiffness without the shine that CA imparts.  Sorry for the oddball picture but I wanted to highlight the lines against a dark background.
 

 
On to the shrouds.  I tried to make the chainplates using the black wire provided in the kit.  I decided that I would prefer soldering the metal rather than use CA.  Unfortunately the enclosed wire did not accept the Tix so I used 26g brass wire instead.  The picture shows the sequence of making the deadeye chainplate.  There is also a chainplate for the backstay which has two small loops.  These are attached to the hull with the provided nails.
 

 

 
The shrouds were made with the starboard side first and then the port.  They are seized with thread.  Three seizings were placed at the deadeye per the drawing in the instructions.  However, Chuck only has two on his prototype.  I am not happy with the seizings because the thread was too thick.  I am not home this week.  Once I get back I might remove the seizings and replace them with fly-tying thread, which is about a third the diameter of the provided material.  The lanyards are not tied off yet to allow the thread to stretch.